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Well I didn't see anything posted from this calendar year, so here I go. Looking to buy a set of impact sockets, and I'd really only like to do it once in my lifetime. What would you guys recommend? Assuming I'll buy 1/2" drive, and I'd like to buy just an SAE set for now, the vehicles I'm working on are very American.
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Sep 11, 2013 01:03
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Mooseykins posted:I have a set of Genuis sockets. Far from expensive and have been really good in pretty much daily use for 6 years. They actually show significantly less wear than my Snap-on sockets that are 2 years old. Do the Genius sockets have a flank drive design?
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Sep 11, 2013 15:06
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Mooseykins posted:Yes, they do, i'll get some pics later when i go into the garage. They were pretty cheap but god drat are they good. I have a hugely expensive Snap-on 1/2" deep socket set that almost never gets used because i only really use the deep Genius impacts. When it comes to 1/2" stuff, there's not much point having chrome sockets, i can't remember the last time i used mine. Photo status?
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Sep 16, 2013 01:11
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Mooseykins posted:Yep. That socket has held up better to it than i have! Thank you sir!
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Sep 16, 2013 15:40
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General_Failure posted:I have a tool related question. Last time I was at the ol' hardware store I did notice a whole drawer full of different grease zerks, perhaps look for that and do a little test fit there?
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Sep 26, 2013 01:27
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General_Failure posted:That's interesting. Shame I can't remove the other ones that are already on the vehicle to do a size comparison. I suspect most of the lube points on the car are drier than an 80 year old hooker but can't get grease in because of these smaller than normal size thingers. Well 10km isn't very far. Also you have reminded me that I need to find a very small bodied grease gun coupler so I can actually fit it in some U-Joints.
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Sep 27, 2013 03:38
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Raluek posted:Looks like the HF IR thermometer is $26 on sale with coupon, are these any good? I know anything electrical/electronic is to be avoided from HF, but I don't really want to drop trou on a Fluke or something. For that price maybe it's OK? Got one on Amazon for about $15, had to talk myself out of the $10 model. Reads accurate enough for both my pizza stone and my truck motor.
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Oct 18, 2013 05:33
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Any recommendations for gear oil pumps? I've had it with the hand transfer pump. Darn thing only fills halfway and starts sucking air. I just bought on for a 5 gallon pail but I think I'll only buy a 1 gallon jug of GL5. Alternately if there's a better way to fill differentials I'm all ears.
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Nov 11, 2013 02:00
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kastein posted:Look no further than these: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=barrel+pump I like the description "Self-priming, hand crank barrel pump dispenses liquids " no hose though?
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Nov 11, 2013 02:51
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Hollis Brown posted:Anyone know of any good deals on a 1/2" and/or 3/8" cordless impact setup? I've tried to do a bit of looking but didn't find much, and reviews are all over the place. Would like both to be the same brand to use the same batteries obviously. Was hoping to get the 1/2" for wheels and big stuck poo poo and the 3/8" for taking out all the other smaller stuff as necessary. I think you'd find the 1/2" would cover everything you need to take off. I'm down to just using 1/2" drive or wrenches. Do you have any other cordless tools? I've been eyeing the Milwaukee, looks like the most powerful cordless, and I have a drill and impact driver already.
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Nov 30, 2013 03:26
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mod sassinator posted:Go for the thicker nitrile gloves, they're a lot more wear resistant: http://www.harborfreight.com/9-mil-nitrile-gloves-powder-free-medium-50-pc-68510.html They're a little more annoying to get on and your hands will sweat like crazy, but they work well in my experience. I love when I reach up and a 1/4 cup of sweat pours down my forearm. Also I think I get increased grip from having wrinkly fingertips. I hate when I do tear them and have to thoroughly dry off my hand before I can put a new one on. I go through about 5 per job it seems like. Either I really have to get something from inside which means take off greasy glove, or I get that sweet feeling of cool relief when the palm tears.
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Dec 2, 2013 02:53
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bandman posted:As I have worked in the environmental field for nearly a decade, I actually have a strong opinion on nitrile gloves. Thin, lovely quality gloves make every job a pain in the rear end, so don't cheap out. For nitrile gloves, I always go with Microflex Supreno SE or EC. I think the only difference is the the EC has a slightly longer cuff. They are tough enough to last through a whole job, but they don't hinder feel or dexterity at all. I love 'em. For reusable shop gloves, the Gorilla Grip gloves InitialDave mentioned are pretty great. Looking at Microflex website, I currently use the Black Dragon Zeros which is the thinnest they offer. However these look interesting http://www.microflex.com/Products/DFK-608.aspx they've got a flocked liner to keep hands dry. They're also double the cost since there's less per box. I think I'll try the Supreno on the next buy.
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Dec 2, 2013 05:47
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VelociBacon posted:I'm 28 and have been working on cars since I was around 17. Today was the first time I dropped a bolt into the briney depths of my engine compartment and was unable to retrieve it with pliers or the like. I had a magnet taped to the end of a spare battery tie down rod and that didn't reach. I refuse to believe that you have never dropped a bolt into the engine and lost it. It was maybe the first thing I ever did to my car, and just happened to me on my pickup last month. I was never very good at Where's Waldo for what it's worth. I like the claw grabber, prefer with a light. http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools...tool+with+light
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Dec 4, 2013 05:40
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reddeathdrinker posted:Also bought a Makita 8391DWPE 18v cordless drill - as I've borked the second cheap cordless drill in 6 months. Moral of the story is buy it once, and buy it well... They still make NiCD cordless?
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Dec 5, 2013 04:59
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I have Milwaukee M18 Redlithium batteries, and I'm looking to buy an "M18 FUEL" bare tool, but I notice the packs come with Redlithium 4.0 batteries. As far as I can tell, they're just a longer lasting battery at 4 amp-hours compared to my battery's 3 amp-hours. Does anyone have first-hand experience that it will work? I'm thinking it should but I'm nervous. I got an x-mas gift card that I think I'll use on this: http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2763-22
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Dec 17, 2013 02:06
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Just ordered something from Home Depot to pick up in store, then got a cancellation with a note that if I used a gift card I'll get a second email with a store credit thing. I have not gotten that 8 hours later - and I did not get an explanation of why it was cancelled. What a terrible way to treat my order. I had a whole plan to go pick it up on my way home too. Emailed customer service but haven't gotten a response.
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Dec 30, 2013 23:53
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eddiewalker posted:Home Depot's in-store stock tracking can be a little "fuzzy" sometimes, especially once an item gets to single digits. When the employee went to pull your item, it probably wasn't on the shelf. You might have better luck at a different location. Thats what I'm thinking too 
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Dec 31, 2013 00:36
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I am now the proud owner of the Milwaukee Fuel M18 High Torque impact wrench. All I need now are some bolts to break all over the place.
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Dec 31, 2013 22:41
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Ferremit posted:Its weird hearing all you guys going "I dont have much in 1/2" drive". I think 99% of my sockets are 1/2" drive, I think ive got one set that goes from 8-17mm in 3/8" and thats it? Same deal here. I just reorganized my tool chest too. I one drawer was all sockets and handles, now one is all 1/2" drive and another is everything else. Working on my pickup I've never been disappointed with extra leverage.
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Jan 11, 2014 15:53
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Uthor posted:I use socket rails: I also rail them, but I bought mine at Sears, it's $8 for a two pack of one size. The clips are snug and don't slide along the rail easily, and they have a small handle. I love them. I originally bought some at Harbor Freight thinking it was a simple enough item and only a dollar, but the sockets fell off when tipped.
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Jan 11, 2014 20:00
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Galler posted:I've got a Milwaukee Model #0234-6 5.5-Amp 1/2" with a keyed chuck and look it's even on sale. It's an older design that's been around a while because it's excellent and is much better than the higher amp version that sort of replaced it*. All the important bits are metal and the wear parts are designed to be replaced instead of throwing away the whole thing and buying a new one. The trigger is smooth and actually allows you to vary the speed with a reasonable amount of precision unlike a lot of the newer designs (from all the manufacturers) which are gritty and awful. The cord detaches at the base of the drill so when you stuff the thing in a box the strain relief doesn't sit at 90* and fail like every other drill I've had. Also it has a 5 year warranty. That thing looks like a workhorse, I honestly have not seen a sturdy corded drill like that in ages. Everyone on the jobsite uses cordless to avoid extension cords on nearly every tool. Fond memories of electrical tape holding a key on the cord.
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Jan 25, 2014 20:30
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kastein posted:Alright, you asked for it How on earth do you pack three large hammers, pullers, and that many sockets? I imagine most of the handled tools and wrenches fit in the pockets, but I can't figure the sockets. Do you have them on rails?
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Jan 27, 2014 03:33
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saint gerald posted:Is this the place for garage questions? A garage is a tool, right? Keep in mind it will be easier to wire before you fill it with your stuff - even if you do what I did and put surface mount conduit all over the drat place. Create a detailed plan with your benches and tool locations so you have the outlets where you need them, It'd put a duplex one every 24" across a bench for instance, but only need one every 8 feet on the other walls, or whatever code minimum is. Plan your lighting as well - a few troffers up high do OK, I'd put rows every 4 feet for full light and at this point you can add lighting low along the sides if you don't plan on putting storage against the wall. Those will help immensely with auto work and painting. As for the overhead air hose, I assume you mean cord reels, put outlets near those for power cord reels as well. If you're going *all out* - consider an S-Beam hoist and trolley. Hell, consider all overhead hoisting needs, if you have the strength in the structure you could put a few hooks for hoisting and positioning.
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Feb 2, 2014 17:48
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saint gerald posted:
Are you having someone design/engineer this structure? Big doors on both sides requires some special consideration. It doesn't have a lot of shear strength in one direction, and will likely need to have a steel frame with moment connections.
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Feb 5, 2014 04:21
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Rhyno posted:I have a friend with a garage with doors on both sides. Pretty sure it's entirely wood as well. It'll come down to what the building department is going to require as far as structural calculations and the design that is presented for permit, really. The problem with having a large opening is the wall is that it doesn't resist a shear force well, which can be fine if it's three sided and the rear wall gives the strength. But if opposite sides are missing it would be prone to collapse perpendicular to the door if a lot of force is imparted. It's easier to overcome with a steel frame over the doors, and it wouldn't need to be all steel necessarily.
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Feb 5, 2014 05:26
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Are these as good as they look? They look like they would have the same problem as pipe wrenches, whereby they open up rather than clamping down on tight nuts. Do you have to use a lot of force to keep them closed when using them on stuck fasteners? Or are they not intended for this application at all? Generally when used in the right direction, the force you impart is closing them tighter. Sometimes the angle makes it hard to achieve, but I have great luck with those.
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Feb 6, 2014 02:24
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eddiewalker posted:The windshield frame screws on my MG are specifically listed as Pozidriv, and apparently made of butter. In a multi-driver pack from NAPA that I like there are a few sizes of those, of course I've never used that particular one. Probably one of the first tool sets I bought actually, when I needed to get a few different torx sizes.
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Feb 9, 2014 18:28
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the spyder posted:Anyone looking for some cheap sockets or wrenches? One day I went on there and found a full set of Craftsman Industrail made in USA SAE sockets, shallow and deep, 1/2" drive, with a flex handle and a ratchet, for $30. I have not seen a deal there since that can compete.
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Feb 10, 2014 06:39
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eddyc49 posted:Has anyone bought or used the new Milwaukee M18 Fuel 1/2" Impact Wrench (2763-20) yet? CPO outlet is running a 15% off sale this weekend, making it $195 shipped. I'm really considering getting it, just wondering if it's worth the extra $40 over the regular M18? I already have a couple of M18 tools and batteries, and so far I love using them. I got it! It's awesome. It's large and heavy, perhaps go to the Home Depot (were I bought mine with a gift card I purchased online with a Christmas bonus gift card from work, great way to save at least 8% at a big store) and pick it up first. I haven't gotten to do the real heavy lifting with it yet, but it's been great for taking the wheels off and snugging them up, it spins the nut off quick. Hard to say if it's worth the extra over the regular M18, but based on the specs you get double the torque. I have a distinct feeling that any bolt that's 1,100 ft-lbs of stuck is likely to break before it comes loose. Basically everything on my truck is 40 years of rusted on so that was my goal - looking forward to putting it through it's paces. Certainly was a lot cheaper than a compressor and air torque wrench, and if you have the batteries/charger you're saving a bundle over any other brand of electric.
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Feb 15, 2014 04:15
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Alright, Kastein, what tools am I going to need for a rebuild of my D44 front differential? Assume I have nothing. I was going to send it to a shop but if I can do it for even the same price, use quality parts, give it a nice epoxy paint, and have a few more tools more to my name, I'm in.
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Feb 21, 2014 16:59
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Motronic posted:I have one in that size that I use for several things. Top of the list is evacuating small fluid reservoirs (master cylinders, power steering fluid reservoirs) when swapping fluids. I suppose in a pinch I could use it to bleed brakes or a clutch, but they're poo poo at that compared to a proper pressure bleeder. And some clutches simply refuse to be vacuum bled (80's Porsches are among that list). I used one like that for brakes, it was fine. Get some pressure, let it flow. Then I let it sink to the bottom of the toolbox on the truck where it was ruined forever and thrown away.
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Feb 28, 2014 22:05
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Motronic posted:I'm not saying they don't work "fine". They do. But I see pressure bleeding getting me a far superior pedal feel. The sucking air was a huge problem, sealing the threads helped. It seemed like I had so much air in the system that I couldn't get it bled without a little assistance to prime the lines. Somehow 2013 was the year of brake bleeding for me and I went through 4 quarts, for two vehicles.
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Mar 1, 2014 15:57
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StormDrain posted:Alright, Kastein, what tools am I going to need for a rebuild of my D44 front differential? Assume I have nothing. Narrowing this question down a bit, do I need a spreader to get the carrier in, or can I limp along without?
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Mar 2, 2014 17:10
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kastein posted:You are going to need bearing pullers, a shop press, torque wrench, blah blah blah. Definitely going to take it off the truck, clean and paint the whole thing just for kicks. The whole problem is the seals, so I'm expecting to buy a kit and replace everything. I've been thinking about a disc brake conversion while I'm at it, replace the drivers side ball joints, then take it to the spring shop for some new springs all around (one of my AI new years resolutions).
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Mar 2, 2014 18:29
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kastein posted:It is leaf sprung right? After pulling the axle you will be approximately four bolts from doing the springs yourself, leaf springs on full frame vehicles are incredibly easy IMO. Buy new ubolts and new shackle and eye bolts and do it yourself, I am sure you can order the leafs online. You should save quite a bit. Full size IH leaf springs are not very available online, and a co-worker recommended a local spring joint to get new ones, I figure I can at least chat witht hem. If it was a Chevy I'd be all about it.
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Mar 2, 2014 19:16
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Krakkles posted:Bought one of these: Milwaukee M18 Fuel High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench. Aww yeah, glad to hear it. I love mine too, I was shocked at how much heavier it was than I expected though. I can't wait to take it to the pick and pull and just tear stuff up.
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Apr 25, 2014 20:00
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kastein posted:Four way. I pull over for people with car trouble and they usually don't have the same lug size as me. Not as much leverage, but you can push on one side and pull on the other, just as effective as twice the handle length and less likely to round off because you are balanced across the lug nut instead of applying torque off-axis... Also I love having that balanced free spinning mass to get the lugs off once free. Unless I wack myself in the shins.
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Apr 26, 2014 17:52
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QuarkMartial posted:Sweet. As far as charging goes, I'd always heard that, too... but then I've also heard that even on a trickle charge it'll slowly kill off the batteries. I dunno, maybe batteries in general are all a losing game? I left a battery on the charger once and it was ruined. In my mind it's easy enough to take it off and store it in the house that I do it to save the eventual the cost of replacing the batteries.
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May 3, 2014 17:33
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Rhyno posted:I really like those bucket bag things. I hate them. Everything on the inside gets piled down to the bottom and lost, and none of the pockets are worth a drat. Plus bucket handles usually suck, and the shape is inconvenient. Doctors bag all day. Low profile, fits down in my tool boxes on the truck.
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May 9, 2014 18:13
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opengl128 posted:I figured this would be an appropriate place to ask. Can anyone recommend some good Nitrile gloves? I used to get Gatorskins or something from Amazon, and they were fine, but ran out and everything I've tried since then suck. They are super thin and tear within minutes of use. I tried a few samples from Microflex and really liked the Supreno ECs and the Duraflock gloves, I haven't gone through a box of either yet. Their site at least gives you the most detail on the thickness of the gloves, even the differences between the palm and finger. And after doing that great research I screwed up and bought a box of latex gloves from Autozone on accident.
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May 12, 2014 23:09
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