|
I have 2 Wellers at work, one that uses numbered tips for temperature control, and one with a fine-temperature control knob for SMD and stuff. I have a mindbogglingly hot Hakko at home, was only $20 at Frys. edit: I use a butane pencil torch for battery terminals and other big wiring stuff, and have a 110 watt soldering gun for BIG poo poo that can't get hit with the butane torch.
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2008 05:32
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 4, 2024 02:20 |
|
|
hippynerd posted:OMG! You found a use for a soldering gun. Yeah, they really are only good for stained glass, and the torch ususally works better for anything that can take direct flame like battery terminals.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2008 17:50
|
|
|
I've needed a digital oscilloscope for a while (since I'm doing so much Megasquirt stuff lately), so I picked up a Protek S2401U at Frys for $300. http://www.protektest.com/ProdInfo.asp?prodId=S2401U Its only 1MHz but has a built in battery and is dual channel. I can' wait to play with it more.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 14, 2009 09:04
|
|
|
RealKyleH posted:Oh if it's for heat shrink I just use a lighter. I make OE's cry with my harnesses, and I use a lighter for 99% of it.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2009 04:01
|
|
|
Hypnolobster posted:Avoid craftsman torque wrenches. I've had two, and they really like to break. My Craftsman torque wrench is really good, better than a new Snap-On. Did I mention its older than me 
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2009 04:51
|
|
|
oxbrain posted:The wrap traps heat, higher heat means faster corrosion. Unless the ceramic coating is completely sealing off the metal it will do the same thing. Wraps hold water really well, similar to what happens to crappy heat shields.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 16, 2009 23:11
|
|
|
I threw away that same model welder and now use a Hobart off-brand I got from a trash pile. Its much better. I think I have 5 or 6 bags of Lincoln branded tips for it, 030 and 035 if anyone wants them.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 18, 2009 23:07
|
|
|
Their little digital calipers for like $10 are actually pretty decent, also since it can change units instantly. I wouldn't do anything beyond a few hundredths with it, but they are plenty useful.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2009 23:33
|
|
|
FatCow posted:The $2.00 multimeters are decent as well. My father got 2 of them one for me one for himself. Both were within 5% when tested against the calibrated lab equipment at his office. Sometime in the early early 80s Fluke (or someone else I don't remember) came out with a digital VOM design that didn't require low tolerance components and had an absurdly cheap chip with LED/LCD driver on-chip. The HF $4.99 ones run like 5% resistors in them.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 6, 2010 18:28
|
|
|
I cut up a Harbor Freight "SawsAll" with a real Sawzall once, it was gratifying.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2010 06:46
|
|
|
I got a $17 propane torch kit from Home Despot, it worked alright until I found a box of MAPP cylinders, now its much better.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2010 18:29
|
|
|
Who buys worm clamps anyway, I always get the rolled-edge ones with the teeth molded in. Worth twice the price if on something that has high temperature variances or less than stellar hose or nipple. THese type: http://www.johsoncn.com/ideal_hose_clamp.htm
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2010 00:55
|
|
|
RealKyleH posted:Id prefer a festiva powered air compressor. Oilless $129 compressors are faster.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 9, 2010 03:07
|
|
|
PBcrunch don't forget to replace the driers too!
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2010 07:10
|
|
|
jailbait#3 posted:The comments on that article are golden. Wait... they aren't using 'ChiCom' as a sarcastic term? 
|
|
#
¿
Aug 29, 2010 18:42
|
|
|
MY HF racing jack does alright for, umm, actual racing. Make sure you grease the end of the handle, it galls instantly when new (anodized aluminum against maybe aluminum) and is rough forever after. Its much easier to modulate when it doesn't rotate like a stick in a box of bolts.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 28, 2010 17:18
|
|
|
Torsen differentials wouldn't work if worm/screw drive could spin itself the other way.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2011 03:37
|
|
|
KaiserBen posted:Their 110(?) amp scratch start inverter TIG isn't a bad little machine. Certainly not for the $165 I paid for it. It's no syncrowave 180, OTOH, it didn't cost $2k either. If you're doing simple mild/stainless steel stuff, it's perfectly adequate as long as you don't need a foot pedal. This sounds pretty interesting, I think I'll get this for shits and giggles. I use a Hobart 110V fluxcore/MIG welder from the 70s that has just about every part dying in some new and interesting way, sounds like another fun tool to play with.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2011 16:54
|
|
|
RapeWhistle posted:Anyone try out the harbor freight engine support bar? I just need it to support my 1.8l M42 in an e30 while I drop the front subframe. Unfortunately I don't have the room in this loving single car garage for an engine crane or I'd make the investment. I've had mine for a few years, works great. I make sure to spray some lube on the screw and ends (it doesn't have bushings) before I use it, has treated me well. Surprisingly, the folding HF hoist has too. I check the cylinder oil every year, add if needed but it hasn't been bad at all.
|
|
#
¿
May 8, 2011 19:13
|
|
|
I put the nut back on level with the threads and tap it with a rubber mallet. Had no problems doing it with the factory tie rod ends on a 22 year old car, I imagine rusty might be less easy.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 29, 2011 18:25
|
|
|
Brigdh posted:On the topic of Metric vs SAE, I've been told that all USDM vehicles have SAE seat and seatbelt mounting hardware because they have to meet SAE standards, even if the rest of the vehicle is Metric. Supposedly this is confirmed for Mazda, Toyota, and BMW vehicles. Yes, its 7/16-20. As far as I know, all seatbelt hardware is done that way. Its taken from airplane tech, as they had belts before cars did and had all that hardware and engineering already done.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2012 17:08
|
|
|
I'm considering that crimp tool!
|
|
#
¿
Dec 13, 2012 18:56
|
|
|
This might be a better fit for Alternative Insanity, but I'll ask here since we are deep in Compressor Chat. I have an ancient Emglo gas powered (Wisconsin Robin engine) compressor, and I really need a new pressure control valve assembly for the compressor. Mine works, but is so worn that I can't really trust it to function correctly, it seems to be 50psi or outside the pressure relief in 1/2 turn of the adjuster. The valve threads into the tank with 1/4" or 3/8" NPT, has a line going to the compressor head to engage a bypass, and tees to a throttle control actuator, which works fine. They're always missing from the compressors at the scrapyard, its not fair! DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Dec 31, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2012 18:20
|
|
|
oxbrain posted:I think you want an unloader pilot valve. That would be it, thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2012 20:52
|
|
|
mod sassinator posted:Yeah I wouldn't rebuild an engine with a HF torque wrench, but for lug nuts it's perfect. Someone.on here did a pretty comprehensive test of the HF wrench and found it was within 5% of a much more expensive model. The digital torque adapter has been really well regarded too. I haven't used mine, but the calibration sheet is .5% for most of the measurement points, and independent checking has been about the same. Not that I would bother with it for lug nuts, but a cheap torque wrench and that, you could probably do anything you wanted inside its torque range.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 14, 2013 22:18
|
|
|
I've religiously kept my HF air tools oiled and they've been pretty much trouble free. Their performance at pressure versus the 'legit' tools is pretty bad, but you just feed them 110psi and they work well.
DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Mar 21, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Mar 21, 2013 00:07
|
|
|
Brain Issues posted:I don't know what brand/type it is that Audi uses for connectors but I quite like them. Bosch EV probably.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 8, 2013 02:05
|
|
|
I have a self-powered EGT gauge and sender from a truck, it works great except hat is only goes to 1500F.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 10, 2013 21:56
|
|
|
I really like my Lincoln Weld-Pak 140 from Home Depot. Its a cheaper machine (got it on sale for $450), but 120V is pretty useful since I have a 220V/250A Miller stick welder for heavy duty stuff. I usually run .030 fluxcore in the 140, I haven't leased a bottle yet and made the move to MIG.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2013 20:14
|
|
|
I use a WES51 at work, and a WT-CPT at home. 1/32" Tips only! I have an 60W Hakko pencil with a 3/16" chisel tip for large cabling, and a propane torch for really large cabling.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2014 21:46
|
|
|
I have a wet sponge and one of those, though I almost always use the sponge since its on the pencil holder.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2014 00:55
|
|
|
Anyone have the link to that imgur miniature tools album? My mom makes Mid-century Modern miniature furniture and would love to see that stuff.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2014 20:37
|
|
|
I sold a 19hp electric start Briggs Industrial Lincoln WeldanPower 225 for that same price a few years ago, and the only thing that was wrong was the battery charging didn't work. That isn't a great deal honestly.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 12, 2014 22:01
|
|
|
I thought the light was the dumbest thing but here I am with both the light and the lantern. drat you open box specials. Though the flashlight has the 18V broken out into an RJ45 to power my radio provisioning rig. Ryobi flashlight plus AirGateway Installer equals easy WISP work!
|
|
#
¿
Nov 15, 2016 07:21
|
|
|
I remember Revelations and I explaining that CT plates stay with the registered owner, not the car...to a Utah state policeman at 3am after 1100 miles of straight driving that day. I'm also pretty sure we were going around 100 at the time. He gave up on us and left. It was 94 miles to the Nevada border.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2016 18:11
|
|
|
ionn posted:I bet having a 23mm nut/bolt/plug is some kind of inside joke among a small group of automotive engineers with an especially twisted sense of humor. Well there is the JIS versus DIN, where heads on a m8 bolt are 12 or 13mm, as I recall. It's probably an proper sizing for a certain diameter.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2017 04:51
|
|
|
It's worse, honestly. Methylene chloride and most strippers are bad news. Much like the other kind of stripper.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2017 08:08
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:Every time I see that $200 Ryobi 6 piece kit I get a little buyers remorse for all of the M12 and M18 stuff I've bought. They're made by the same company, and i like my Ryobi tools. Especially the hot glue gun. That thing is just ridiculous.
|
|
#
¿
May 28, 2017 06:01
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:I've been eyeing that, but reviews were limited. It's worth buying? Its nearly as good as my old pro-level hot melt applicator. With year old batteries, its good for about 2.5+ hours. Kinda dumb for the typical 5 minute job, but if you are using it for long periods, its pretty nice. Its no 3M Quadrack, but its almost as good.
|
|
#
¿
May 29, 2017 00:36
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 4, 2024 02:20 |
|
|
Sadi posted:As someone in the power tool industry, torque measurements on impacts are iffy. (There's day to day variability in the measurements on the same tool with the same air pressure at the inlet) There are a lot of variables. Most competitor tools I bring in to have tested fall sort of their claimed torque on our skidmore. A lot of shenanigans are played to make sure your skidmore numbers are high. I don't know the electric market very well, but in pneumatics, a lot of the big name tools come out of the same few Asian factories. The tool industry is very incestious. Atlas released a new grinder maybe a year ago and many of the Asian brands are already making duplicates and many of the other brands are licensing modified version of those knock offs. I was once at a trade show and one of the suppliers was talking about (not knowing who I was with) how their grinder had interchangeable parts with ours. My favorite part is I swear he has a set of Rockwell files, but only had them out a few times at most. Otherwise its this 14" bastard hmm yep she's hardened a shookum choocher
|
|
#
¿
Jul 25, 2017 16:24
|
|