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Beerios posted:Let's not forget the Craftsman Giant loving Screwdriver:  Stanley Demo Drivers, $10 for the pair at your local Lowe's/Home Depot. Sadly, that's the biggest they get -- there is one with a 1/2" tip (finally -- it wasn't out yet when I got those), but it's the same 10" long. Thicker shaft, though, so it might be worth buying anyway. Also pictured: three-pound hammer. Surprisingly useful in automotive work.  Here they are with my previous Giant loving Screwdriver, an 11" x 1/2" model from a Wal-Mart Popular Mechanics-brand set. Despite the naysayers' prediction of breakage and maiming, it's held up just fine for five years of hard use, including prying by hammering the tip into a small gap, then twisting the shaft with a Big loving Crescent Wrench. Square-shaft screwdrivers are awesome. (Edit: I'm pretty sure the Stanley ones are round specifically to prevent that sort of thing.) Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Mar 6, 2008 |
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Mar 6, 2008 04:29
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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IOwnCalculus posted:They are absolutely hideous and one actually has about a 30* bend from god only knows what Here are a few artsy macro shots of the bigass Crescent wrench I mentioned in my previous post, because everybody knows the shape of it. 12" model I got from my dad, it may have been his dad's.  
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Mar 6, 2008 04:56
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sharkytm posted:I love my 18" Craftsman adjustable. I use it as a hammer just as much as I use it as a wrench. I used to keep it in my car for a "tire knocker"... AKA headsplitter.  Paint job inspired by this picture from the Warhammer 40k thread. 
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Mar 6, 2008 05:52
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Dark Solux posted:My tool storage situation is a sad sight. Same here. I've got a Craftsman Rally Box for the socket set, box-end wrenches, and suchlike, and a big plastic toolbox for the non-automotive tools (hammers, screwdrivers, Crescent wrenches, etc.), and a big sack of 18v cordless power tools*. Unfortunately I don't have room for one of those huge things (nor do I have $120  ).*This kit, in case you were wondering. It's pretty decent for the money. The one bad comment on that page is about defective batteries; I think they fixed that, and in any case, I've never had a problem with mine. Awesome drill, good circular saw, good-as-you-can-get-with-cordless Sawzall-type saw, and pointless flashlight. Mine came with a sander instead of the Sawzall, and I acquired the latter separately. No complaints from me -- the drill is badass, both saws will hack through multiple 2x4s with ease, the flashlight may be useful if you don't own a 6D Maglite, and the sander . . . sands well. Mine was all Christmas presents, but I'd gladly pay for it. Here's the original kit with a lovely little stepstool I built from scrap wood as a test (reciprocating saw not pictured; got it the following year):  Now I want to cut our dead Jeep in half to test the reciprocating saw. Too bad the apartment complex has rules prohibiting that sort of thing. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Mar 6, 2008 |
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Mar 6, 2008 16:22
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Nitrox posted:They ARE interchangeable! If you can, avoid the old batteries at all. Can you beef it up/remove the safety while keeping the original trigger? The variable speed is a big thing for me. I'm satisfied (so far) with the power, but I'd love to take out that stupid-rear end safety button.
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Mar 7, 2008 03:41
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Dark Solux posted:Yeah I went to sears today to look at tool boxes but they didn't have any three piece combos for less than like 300$. Oh well. There's always the US General boxes at HF Check Tractor Supply, if there's one in town. They had some nice metal toolboxes at decent prices last time I was there.
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Mar 7, 2008 07:24
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Nitrox posted:No idea, but I'm sure it's possible. Well, I got the safety out. It's not electrical at all, just a spring-loaded bit that blocks the trigger when it's centered. Easy to remove, and I recommend doing so. But don't pull the trigger assembly out if you're not replacing it with a toggle switch. The wires coming off the battery are just kind of stuck into spring clips in the switch body, and it's a bitch and a half to make them stick back in once you've accidentally pulled them out. I ended up using a pair of little needlenose pliers to stuff the loose wire in good and tight, and tested it five times before putting it back together. Another lesson learned from that project: If you're going to fill the safety-button holes with epoxy (gently caress the warranty!), do it while you've got it split in twain -- JB Weld is affected by gravity to a surprising degree, and doesn't take kindly to being on opposite sides of something. You know, I never have been able to get JB Weld to work right. Do I just fail at estimating amounts, or is it worthy of the "tools that suck" thread? Edit: Probably the latter -- my dad can do it. Also, it's made locally in Sulfur Springs, TX. I think it's the best thing ever to come out of northeast Texas, but that's not saying much. Edit again: Now that I think about it, I'm going to vote "it's awesome and I suck" on JB Weld. Here's the transfer case of my Jeep repaired with the stuff after the limited-slip doohickey blew and shattered the case like an eggshell. The doohickey only drove the front wheels; it worked just fine like this, albeit RWD-only, for several months until I found a replacement.  
Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 13:01 on Mar 7, 2008 |
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Mar 7, 2008 12:49
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RealKyleH posted:Harbor Freight Electronic Ear Muffs: I have a pair too, and agree. They're pretty cool. When I got them, I wore them around the house for a few hours, occasionally clapping to make them cut out. They're worth $10 just to play with like that.
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Mar 9, 2008 05:13
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hippynerd posted:Anyone ever use the GraBit ? If you've got a small screw with a stripped head, cut a slot in it with a Dremel and use a regular screwdriver. If it's a big bolt, drill + extractor.
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Mar 11, 2008 18:41
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Hypnolobster posted:I agree. I have a It's a good thing I haven't had cable for years, and have InediblePenguin to quickly drag me past the hardware department whenever we're in a Sears.  To be fair, the Handi-Cut or whatever it's called is decently useful, and that thing with the orange handle was a lifesaver until I broke down and bought a socket to fit the only bolt I ever used it on. The wrench-thing has already been reviewed (sucks), the Robo-Grip pliers get a resounding "meh" (get some real ChannelLocks, ya lazy bum), and the big chrome thing I forget the name of is  but useless (I never could keep it spinning properly).Edit because I took too long to take the picture: hippynerd posted:I usually avoid the problem entirely by just not re-using screws or bolts if they show too much wear. Also, I forgot to mention the worst-case scenario: Try to drill the head completely off, realize you don't have a big enough drill bit, chop it the rest of the way off with your three-pound hammer and  my hammer.
Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Mar 11, 2008 |
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Mar 11, 2008 19:17
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friend who likes to buy every gimmicky tool he sees on TV.
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iscariot posted:http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952156000P They need to make something like that, but with a regular screwdriver handle (preferably in the style of the Stanley Demo Drivers), so you can hammer it in to get a good grip. It should also have a square shank so you can turn it with a wrench. Stripped Phillips head? Phillips in so tight the driver cams out? Stripped square driver? Odd-sized Torx, and you're replacing it with a real screw? I'd buy a set. Speaking of odd-sized Torx, where can I get some smaller than T10? I run across a surprising number of screws that are the next size down -- most recently when busting the magnets of of a dead HDD yesterday morning. (I ended up doing the too-small drill bit + Stanley Demo Driver/3-pound hammer trick, since I didn't care about the screws or the case.) And on a completely unrelated note, has anybody ever bought cold chisels from Harbor Freight or Big Lots (preferably the latter, since there's one in town)? Because I need some. One last thing: What do they actually do at bearing supply shops? Because there are TWO of them here in town, and every time I drive past, I get a giggle out of thinking it's "bearing" like "fishing" and they sell Marlin Guide Guns and shotgun slugs. Obviously they're actually in the friction-reduction business, but there just doesn't seem to be enough of a market here to support two stores.
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Mar 12, 2008 08:34
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EvilDonald posted:I always use the organic torque wrench for wheels. Just get them...tight. Of course, this is the guy who, when clearing LZs in Vietnam, looked at the formulas that tell you how much explosive to use, decided the variable "p" meant "plenty," and used twenty feet of Primacord to tie a pound of C4 to a tree he could've cut down with his pocketknife. On a similar note, does anybody actually screw oil filters on as the instructions say? Something like gasket contact plus a fraction of a turn? That seems incredibly loose to me, and I always crank 'em down as tight as I can by hand, and have never had a leak. Of course, Wal*Mart apparently uses the tire-changing impact guns for oil filters, so I doubt it's all that important.
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Apr 9, 2008 14:21
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hippynerd posted:Uhm... doesnt that leave a hole like 5 wide by about a foot deep? seems like a pretty crappy LZ if you ask me. Neither of us has ever broken a bolt using the "estimated torque" method. We have, however, broken a lot of bolts taking them out. I do own a torque wrench -- one of those cheap clicky ones, probably from Harbor Freight. I've checked a couple of things after estimating the torque by hand, and they were decently close. If it's something important like head bolts, I use the torque wrench, but most everything else I just tighten until it feels right. For oil filters, there's definitely a happy medium between what the instructions say and what the quickie-lubes do. I screw mine down as tight as I can with my bare hand (I don't usually wear gloves when working on the car. Not much point in it since I always end up dripping oil down to my armpits taking the old filter off). This is the best tool I've found for removing oil filters installed by roid-raged apes. If it slips, just crank it down another notch and crush the fucker so it'll have some corners to grab onto.
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Apr 10, 2008 04:49
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Kynetx posted:Yeah, I just chuck a 21MM on to the trusty 1/2" impact wrench and torque it till it stops. hippynerd posted:box/combo wrench + hammer.  . But definitely use a box-end wrench, don't use a ratchet 'til it's loose. My 1/2" Craftsman ratchet makes funny noises, and my 3/8" only catches about half the time now. I really need to take them to the store and get them swapped out/get repair kits.
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Mar 16, 2009 07:52
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Today I checked the mail and found an unexpected $650 check (from cashing out my stock options from a former job; I did it some time ago, but it didn't go through until the end of the quarter). I also got a Harbor Freight flier. It's like God is trying to tell me something. 
Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 09:14 on Sep 19, 2009 |
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Sep 19, 2009 09:10
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Wagonburner posted:How high can I charge this thing? I take it to work to blow poo poo out with, and charge it to 100psi all the time and it seems ok, I'm scared to go higher until anonymous internet users tell me it's ok. In the meantime, here's what the valve looks like when DuPont gives it to you:  Click here for the full 524x800 image. And this may be of interest:  Click here for the full 800x351 image. Note the last line. You should really just go buy a real air tank at Harbor Freight. that way you know how much it can hold, and have somebody to sue when it blows up in your face anyway. They're only, what, $40? Though the Freon tank should have an overpressure-blowout-safety-thing (that round thing behind the valve in my pic), so it probably won't kill you if you overfill it. Just point the top of it away from your face/anything else you value while filling.
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Nov 6, 2009 05:39
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Glynis27 posted:Just wanted to say that I got one of those exhaust cutters someone posted earlier (like a chain with metal discs) and it is the greatest thing ever! No more loud tools or shards of hot metal and rust flying all over the place. Has been making this exhaust build for my Jeep much less horrible. Thanks so much. I was totally dreading it.  than that.
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Dec 13, 2009 07:59
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I went to Harbor Freight yesterday to pick up some electrical connectors and tape, and looked at the power tools. Lots of angle grinders on sale for $20. I realized I have always had an angle grinder-shaped hole in my life. So I went back today and bought the $34 one. That paddle switch alone is totally cool enough to make it worth the extra $14. It says in the manual that using it for "polishing or cutting-off" is "not recommended". That's just to cover their asses, right? It didn't explode when I slapped on a cutoff wheel and removed a rusted bolt that's been bugging me, at least. Also in the manual: handling the cord exposes you to lead. Hooray, China! Of course, I didn't really need an angle grinder, aside from that one small bolt that I could've cut with the Dremel. I suppose it'll be good for sharpening the mower blades come spring. Maybe I should start a YouTube series where I sand/grind/deburr/cut various things. With joke video of me brandishing it at the pet bunnies.
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Nov 8, 2010 03:46
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eddiewalker posted:Good thing you bought the 4.5" kind. I steer anyone I can away from the 4" ones. It seriously won't fit any of HFs own accessories. Also mentioned way back, and replied to incredulously: 9" angle grinders. HF has one for $60. I also picked up a variety pack of wheels for it -- a couple of grinding wheels, a couple of flap wheels, and some cutoffs. Now i just need something to use it on.
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Nov 8, 2010 04:42
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Josh Lyman posted:My mom bought a hardware set about 15 years ago called "DO-IT HERSELF" that was light blue. My mom has the same kit in the trunk of her car for emergency tools, also missing several pieces. It also came in pink -- she got her mom the pink one at the same time. Josh Lyman posted:Should I focus on getting Craftsmen branded stuff or does that not really matter? $120 is a bit more than I'd like to spend but I imagine I could put together a set of essentials for $50. As for a toolbox, this thing is pretty awesome for a general-purpose home-repair kit.  I use one at work, resetting grocery stores -- you need a surprising number of tools for it, and the stepstool is essential. Tangent: Most of my coworkers carry rubber mallets for when a bent shelf needs a bit of massaging. I carry a three-pound drilling hammer. My coworkers rarely use their mallets, they just ask me to beat on things. One of my coworkers has a girly (i.e. all-pink) toolkit that came with a stepstool toolbox, but I can't remember the brand name, sorry. Bonus of pink tools: her stuff goes missing a lot less than anybody else's. (I, on the other hand, just write my name on all my tools, only loan them to people I trust, and make it known that I will use the 3lb hammer on anybody that touches my toolbox without permission.)
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Nov 22, 2010 04:28
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Skyssx posted:Tool bags are for taking places, tool boxes are for sitting on benches, again IMO. Rhyno posted:So how many of you live in apartments and keep a rolling chest there? I was looking at apartments this week and one of them had this nook behind the front door that would fit a tool chest almost perfectly.
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Nov 22, 2010 08:36
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Rhyno posted:Well I already own a rolling chest full of tools so it's not a money issue with me. It's just that my current place doesn't have room but the place I looked at does. And on top of that it has a walk-ou patio which ends a few feet from where I would be parking. Sounds like a plan, then. My patio had a fence around it, which led to me carrying the tools out, setting them on the patio rail when finished, and finally remembering to go get them from the indoors side the next day. i eventually got a toolbelt, and then never had to work on the car again before moving.
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Nov 22, 2010 08:43
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I have a little 8" pipe wrench I got from my dad that has a distinct curve to the handle. I really need to ask about the story behind that. The pipe wrench customer reviews on Northern Tool's site are hilarious: On the 3-foot one: "[3/5 stars] I have not used this wrench much, but from the looks of it I would not put a six foot cheater pipe on it. The quality looks fair, but it all goes back to you get what you pay for. If you need a large light duty pipe wrench then this is the one for you." The five-footer: "[2/5] Tool little on heavy side. Has good grip but fails to adjust without alot of handling. Starts to bend very easy when a cheater bar is attached" I have a 24" one from there (it's $13, why not?), and haven't broken it. Of course, I have yet to use it on big pipe or with a cheater bar; I mostly keep it around for hitting things, ripping out studs (like a Stanley Fubar, but adjustable!), and the other day I took out the upper jaw, turned it backwards, and used it as a prybar to lift a washing machine that needed leveling.
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Nov 24, 2010 08:14
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I finally came up with an excuse to use the HF angle grinder, and it performed admirably. We've finally started unpacking from the move, and when it was time to assemble the dining table, we couldn't find the wedges that hold the legs on. So I took some thickish sheetmetal I had laying around, folded it in half to make the right thickness, cut strips off the folded edge, and ground them to shape. In retrospect, I should've drilled a hole or something in the big ends to make it possible to pull them out if ever we move again (the originals had a tab to hammer on with a punch for removal), but oh well, I've got Vise-Grips.
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Nov 24, 2010 22:54
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zifflol posted:The technical term for these are "analog impact wrenches" In completely unrelated news, I need to take my craftsman ratchets in and get replacements -- the half-inch is kind of sloppy, and the 3/8" I have to hold the lever to the appropriate side with my thumb in order for it to catch.
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Jun 26, 2011 08:33
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astrollinthepork posted:I can feel pain in my knuckles just by reading this. Yeah, I've stripped the gears in a full set of Craftsman ratchets. It's always fun when you go in for a warranty swap and the clerk just stares at you for a minute. But a man who manages to bend a half-inch-drive ratchet handle is not a man to be hosed with. That reminds me of the comments on some tool shop's website about the five-foot pipe wrenches -- some roughnecks were quite annoyed that the handle bent when they hitched it up to their big-diesel 1-ton Dodge dually and floored it to break loose a stubborn bolt the size of your thigh.
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Nov 25, 2011 04:34
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14 INCH DICK TURBO posted:I just found this hammer and I don't care that it appears to be more for home demo and not automotive, nor do I care enough to decide if it's gimmicky or not because loving look at it. Bah. You really wanna make a wall wish it'd never been built (or take apart a car using only muscle power), get yourself a set of irons:  You can also open a beer bottle on either the Halligan or the axe, and not be viewed as some kind of ninny who needs a special bottle opener. (Non-ninny beer opening: hook cap ridges on any hard flat surface -- in this case, hold the axe between your knees or something so it's upright, and use the top -- and slap the wrist of the bottle-holding hand with the other hand. Warning: will put a dent in drat near every finish known to man, so don't try it on the edge of a friend's fancy table/countertop.) Lord Gaga posted:I cant think of a reason to ever do stick. But yeah, if you're not getting paid and there's an alternative available stick welding is pretty crap. Edit: it gets less crap as the amperage/margin of error increases. My brother learned on structural steel, then got a little 70A plug-in stick buzzbox for a personal project and couldn't get it to work; I learned on the little buzzbox, and can make beautiful beads with flux-core wire. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 09:55 on Nov 26, 2011 |
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Nov 26, 2011 09:47
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Pegboard EVERYWHERE! (save the areas where you'll be shelving. Why not put pegboard behind the shelves too, in case you decide to move the shelves? If I ever get enough money to build my ideal shop, it's going to have a wall or two of Madix gondolas (there are a couple of competing brands, but Madix is the best).
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Dec 18, 2011 07:03
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Christobevii3 posted:Their "professional" drills are like $30 and should be ok for that. You might be better getting a walmart black n decker. When I decided I need a corded drill I went to my local pawn shop and paid $30 for a Bosch (made in West Germany). Got it home, and immediately snapped two quarter-inch drill bits. I know pawn shops are a ripoff, but I think I got my money's worth.
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Apr 20, 2012 09:36
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I have a set of stubby GearWrenches. They're really nice in tight spaces, especially when clearance parallel to the bolt is an issue -- several times I've gotten a ratchet stuck between the fan and radiator because the fan bolts are too long (I have bad luck with water pumps), so I had to screw it back in and then use the GearWrench on it to allow it to come all the way out. But yeah, keep the regular wrenches for hammering on or bending to reach something really hard to get to.
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Apr 21, 2012 07:56
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Suniikaa posted:Go with the axe, it's more fun and you get a workout. I have felled trees with that axe, it's pretty solid. And yeah, it makes your arms buff/sore as all hell. That reminds me, I need to chop down some more trees, I'm getting a bit flabby in the biceps. Edit: and the axe chips make good kindling if you're chopping firewood. Sawzall is kinda weak for logs bigger than your wrist, either man up and use an axe or wedges and sledge or get a chainsaw. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 10:12 on Oct 14, 2012 |
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Oct 14, 2012 10:07
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ExplodingSims posted:Maybe I just don't get the Harbor Freight mentality 'cause the nearest one has always been like a hour and a half away, but is gambling and having to drive back to store constantly really better than just coughing up the extra cash for a higher quality tool? I love HF. Though you may be right -- my local store is close enough that I could probably return a power tool while standing in my yard if the wind was right and I swung it by the cord to throw it. Maybe I've just been lucky -- I have two angle grinders, a $20 one from Harbor Freight and a fancy Makita my dad gave me for Christmas one year, both subjected to similar abuse; the Makita, I've had to put down because it got uncomfortably hot (while wearing welding gloves), but the HF one has taken everything I've thrown at it without complaint. Hummer Driving human being posted:Aside from air tools and compressors, what 10 or so tools could accomplish 50% or more of regular automotive maintenance work?
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Dec 1, 2012 10:19
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DJ Commie posted:I really like my Lincoln Weld-Pak 140 from Home Depot. Its a cheaper machine (got it on sale for $450), but 120V is pretty useful since I have a 220V/250A Miller stick welder for heavy duty stuff. I usually run .030 fluxcore in the 140, I haven't leased a bottle yet and made the move to MIG. I have the next one down and it's decent, even when not quite using it to its full potential because my garage only has 15A breakers. FCAW is perfectly acceptable; it takes a bit more work to make pretty than MIG, but works better in a breeze.
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Dec 27, 2013 06:38
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I guess I won the lottery in that my HF angle grinder with HF wheels hasn't shivved me yet. On the other hand, I wear a leather apron, welding gloves, long-sleeved shirt that's basically sail canvas, and eyepro ranging from welding mask to motorcycle helmet when using it, just in case.
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Mar 2, 2014 08:01
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McSpatula posted:If it won't move at all, is the mirror affixed to the wall with some sort of adhesive backing? One retaining bracket alone shouldn't be enough to keep it in place like that. Once again, a 3-pound drilling hammer solves all problems. Mirrors are cheap these days, and you'll get time served on the 7 years bad luck from having a mirror glued to the wall. Or just use your prying implement of choice to bend the brackets enough to get pliers on them and rip them out. Edit: but yeah, a Dremel and the fiberglass cutoff wheels would make short work of the brackets. And when the mirror stays on the wall, you'll kick yourself for not heeding my and McSpatula's advice and spending the on fancy Dremel bits instead of a hammer.
Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 12:44 on Apr 5, 2014 |
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Apr 5, 2014 12:41
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Some racecars/4x4s have a bit of chain in the wheel well that is just long enough to hook to a lug on the axle when sitting; stow it for suspension travel, clip it to the axle to get the tire off the ground quicker when jacking the frame. Or just put the jack under the pumpkin or A-arm. On my roommate's Civic, using the designated jack points on the frame isn't that bad. On my cop car or my late Wagoneer, on the other hand, the low-profile jack that fits under the Honda barely unloads the springs at max height on the frame.
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Apr 12, 2014 13:27
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the spyder posted:Ironically enough, we broke our sawzall cutting a miata chassis in half. I was going to buy a new one, but I grabbed a older Milwaukee off craigslist. It let me to wonder though, what are you guys using? Milwaukee, Porter Cable, Makita? Seeing as how you used their brand name to describe the general idea of the thing, Milwaukee is probably the best. jailbait#3 posted:Splurge on the 110v DC (NOT the AC buzzbox) arc welder and auto-dimming helmet. It's tiny and makes great looking welds, unlike the fluxcore splatter machine. It's easy to learn; you should have the hang of it halfway through a box of rods. Is that the tiny beige one? The tiny beige one has good reviews, I almost bought one until my brother gave me a lovely Campbell Hausfeld buzzbox he got for a one-time job and later bought me (and himself) a pair of midrange Lincoln fluxcore machines for Christmas. If you're serious about welding and not just tinkering, get a 240V machine if you can power it. Much better than anything that plugs into a standard outlet, and even those trip the standard breaker at the highest setting -- every 110V circuit in your house is probably 15A, maybe 20A. The welder pulls 20A on its highest setting, and the outlet it's plugged into is probably on the same circuit as the lights. Though if you're just learning, the little 110V ones are cheap enough to give away or sell for a pittance if you decide not to upgrade, and still handy for small jobs if you do upgrade. kastein posted:I have the FuBar. I honestly use my regular old 36" wrecking bars more, they're better suited to most jobs unless you just need to absolutely, indiscriminately wreck poo poo. jammyozzy posted:There's always a big loving sledge for some percussive maintenance too Also a good buy: Stanley demo drivers. Y'know all those things you're not supposed to use screwdrivers for, like chisleing, prying, drilling, etc. but do anyway? They're built for it. Toolmonger's review sold me on them, in which they hammered one all the way through a 2x4, handle and all, with no damage other than a few scratches to the rubber grips. I've used them for prying, chiseling through small bolts (in conjunction with the 3-lb hammer), and as a non-marring hammer (hold it by the shaft and whack the thing with the handle; chews up the finish, but hey, that's just more grip) more than I've actually used them to turn screws. 4-lb hammer and Stanley Demo Drivers:  Another wonderful thing:  I have one for work, thinking of getting another one for the around-the-house tools. InitialDave posted:Yes, you should get a torque wrench for rebuilding stuff, but right now you'll be mainly stripping stuff, so I say prioritise getting the beefiest breaker bar you can find. The big hammer is good in lieu of/in spaces too tight for a breaker bar, as long as you have ratchets with a good warranty. melon cat posted:I guess I can just go with a a hacksaw and lots of elbow grease.
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Jun 20, 2014 13:18
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peepsalot posted:Those stanley demo drivers look neat, but I couldn't find them on the stanley site, they seem to be discontinued? Well, balls. What if I ever manage to break them? Dewalt makes a similar set, and the one Amazon review says they're better than the Stanley version. They look pretty much identical except the Dewalts don't have the rubber grips, just solid plastic handles but the same shape. I wonder if they licensed a third-party design, and the patent owner jumped ship when the contract was up for renewal. Edit: I've been watching Let's Plays of The Forest, in which your starting weapon/tool is the fire axe from the airliner you crashed on.  That's a funky blade shape. Is it because it's more a can opener writ large than an actual axe? Could you chop down a tree with it? Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Jun 21, 2014 |
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Jun 21, 2014 06:54
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Splizwarf posted:Those screwdrivers are nice. You also want a set of the yellow and black ones, they're solid steel all the way through and designed specifically to be hit with a hammer the way we all already do anyway. The Stanley Demo Drivers (now Dewalt-branded, but same design) are similar. I bought a set after seeing a Toolmonger post where they hammered the loving things all the way through a 2x4, handle and all. I'm a retail merchandiser -- I rearrange grocery stores -- and have to work with old busted gondola shelves. My coworkers all carry rubber mallets and a prybar of some sort; I have a 3-pound drilling hammer and a pair of Stanley screwdrivers. Guess who always gets asked for help when a 4-foot shelf has to go into a 47.5" space. When I need a light touch of a hammer, I use the handle of the screwdriver. And I'm the only person that hasn't had any tools permanently borrowed, because everybody knows that if they steal my poo poo I'll use the hammer on 'em, and if they steal my hammer I'll shank 'em with the screwdriver.Also these things are great. I'm considering buying a second one to use around the house: 
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Oct 30, 2014 22:58
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Splizwarf posted:Buy one , right now, and then you don't need to worry about it anymore. They have them for $25 at the better farm stores (I got mine at a regional chain that's sort of like Tractor Supply). Also if you're in the business and know the right people, Kraft apparently supplies them to their reps. (I represent Kraft but through a broker, pretty sure you only get one with the Kraft logo on it if you're one of their DSD people.)
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Oct 31, 2014 04:06
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