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Lathespin.gif
May 19, 2005
Pillbug

Frank Dillinger posted:

can anyone help me figure out who makes this angled socket? it's fixed at 45 degrees, but does it very well. the guy who showed it to me said this one was some kind of pre-production prototype, and that it was intended for aircraft maintenance work. same guys apparently also designed a 90 degree system as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1koMdJdg60





edit: there are no identifying markings and the part would have been designed/made in north america

def. looks like a shop knocked up tool, coulda been anybody with some barstock, a lathe and mill and a few spare hours. cool application of old school tech :3:



e:

Splizwarf posted:

Charlie, we're working on a forge
what size? gas/propane forge, i assume? blown or venturi burners? :getin:

Lathespin.gif fucked around with this message at 09:35 on Dec 4, 2015

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Lathespin.gif
May 19, 2005
Pillbug

revmoo posted:

Any ideas one what I can use to clean the old wax off my friction drawer slides?

I tried a ton of chlorinated brake cleaner and it didn't really do anything.

toluene/xylene :getin:


but yeah probably just elbow grease and maybe some heat

Lathespin.gif
May 19, 2005
Pillbug
I've got an odd one here, and maybe one of you wrenchbenders can help? I'm looking for a 15mm x 18mm box wrench, yeah that's a weird as hell combo but that's what Bafang used for this e-bike on the front & rear axle nuts. It'd be real nice to just need one wrench in the roadside tube/tire repair kit, and there isn't really room to get an open spanner or crescent wrench on the front nuts without chewing up the fork, either.

The closest thing I've found so far are these sweet https://runwell.jp/product/ wrenches, but nearest size seems to be 10 x 15, or the usual 14 x 15, etc.



Please tell me matco or snapon or anyone at all sells, or used to sell one? Otherwise I guess it's making a handle for a pair of turned down sockets and firing up the brazing setup, or trying to mill one out of 17-4 or 4140 or something on some rainy day.

Lathespin.gif
May 19, 2005
Pillbug
Thanks everybody, yeah it's an odd duck size for sure. Chopping two wrenches and welding them back up is the easy answer, but no tig/mig until work buys one next year sometime. High silver braze is available, but not great for sticking two handles back together unless I mill or grind them to have some good overlap at the joint? Milling out a stretched figure-8 handle from thin plate to drop a pair of shortened sockets into seems like it'd have plenty of area for braze to grip, and I have a mill and rotary table, lathe, etc. so it'd just cost me time. It wouldn't be fully chromed though, booo.

Like 20 years ago now I had one of those 2-stroke 50cc kits on a 26" cruiser, and it came with something like this, except double ended & flipped for offset:



One side for the plug, one side for all the mount/carb/muffler/head, etc. bolts. That's pretty much the ideal footprint here, especially on the front. It's not an urgent thing, just on the 'nice to have, less poo poo to carry' list. I have some lasercut Park bike wrenches, but I'd happily trade some more weight for how thin they are, and how hard they bite your hands and chew fasteners. In the meantime the Lobtex adjustable is basically great, except for clearance on the front. You should probably try one out if you haven't, they make stubby ones too: http://www.lobtex.co.jp/english/products/tabid/153/pdid/E-UMXD/catid/82/Default.aspx Some models don't close to zero, so not good for bending sheet metal, etc.- check the spec sheets. Still my favorite crescent to date for general wrenching, drat thing actually stays adjusted where you set it.


Here's the rear, and yeah it does have the power leads running thru the axle:



That's not a problem though, because the connector will pass thru a box end. Not a standard socket, of course- the wire's gotta go somewhere.



The plastic boot will fold up and squish through, and I'm scheming a proper clamp on, split delrin boot at some point to armor the wire exit, that thing's cheesy.

Anyway that one I can get basically any wrench on pretty cleanly, it's the front that's a pain:



It's kinda hard to see, but the bottom half of the hex is down in a recess on the fork. Looks like just enough clearance to get a slim 12pt. on it for the bottom quarter of swing or so, a socket or slightly extended box would be even better. I can get the tips of the Lobtex or an open end on it, but not cleanly and it'll chew up the fork and nut. I guess I could get taller hex nuts, but who doesn't need an excuse to buy or make more tools?

ryanrs that's a super offer, thanks dude! I'm gonna bang my head against this one and browse ebay for a couple weeks, see if I can maybe get lucky. Consider this a counter-offer from me for when you need a custom bushing turned or some bracket milled out or whatever :)

Lathespin.gif
May 19, 2005
Pillbug

Safety Dance posted:

You joke, but the instructions for my child's baby monitor recommended I drill a 1/5" hole in the wall for the drywall anchor.

Salami Surgeon posted:

That's a #76 drill bit, so something didn't get translated from engineering drawings to installation instructions.

A #76 is .020", not .200"... I think you want like a #8 there, hoss

StormDrain posted:

It's just this meme.



Except weld the socket on to act as a socket and not a drive adapter.

When you don't have a welder, everything is like "goddamit why don't I have a welder"

Anyway I'm brazing instead, at least for this first one. Safety-silv 56, black flux, mapp gas.



Turns out a 15mm box doesn't have proper clearance to fit the fork nicely either, at least the husky and sunex donors on hand, so socket modding it is. If you're doing something like this, move slow and dehorn any chromed edges the second you can, because they will absolutely lay you wide open if you even blink around them.



Fitment looks good, flux it up and wish you had some stop-off to mask around the joint to keep it from flowing everywhere :/ Anyone used those Nicrobraz markers? They look nice on paper, anyway.

I need more practice.



Not too bad after cleanup, decent fillets and wetted thru nicely. Wire wheel and brushes, files, scotchbrite, flitz. Chrome in the heat zone appears brassy, but no signs yet of peeling or bad juju.





Fits with about .03" radial clearance in the fork counterbore so that's fine. The six-point looks like it clears about 1/3 swing, so maybe a 12pt woulda been better but idk, seems good enough to me



I guess about 50g heavier than my usual adjustable wrench? The bike is like 70 lbs so lol who cares



Need to get a 15mm hex bolt/washer/nut to couple it properly to a second socket/torque wrench for testing, but just dicking around clamping the box end with a 1/2"-13 it's hitting 70ish ft lbs before my crappy setup starts slipping, so that's at least ballpark for max torque on a 10mm 12.9 bolt? Gotta try shock loading it to 80-90+ ft lbs a few times and see if I can break it, but so far seems good.


Sure woulda been easier with a TIG, tho

Lathespin.gif fucked around with this message at 10:44 on Nov 8, 2022

Lathespin.gif
May 19, 2005
Pillbug

ionn posted:

TIL 76mm/3" cutoff wheels with 10mm and 3/8" center holes are not the same. The latter is about 0.5mm smaller and won't fit on the arbor of my Ryobi.

Just drill the discs out with a fresh X or 10mm bit, it'll totally work (maybe) and they won't explode in your face and maim you (maybe)

(don't)

Lathespin.gif
May 19, 2005
Pillbug

Advent Horizon posted:

Wire and cable your way has what I need but the minimum order plus shipping comes out to $65 and >$20/foot for what I’ll use is not great.

$18 for a 5ft shot looks pretty good?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303882560684

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Lathespin.gif
May 19, 2005
Pillbug
I’d like a nice quality mechanics stethoscope, what’s good and comfortable on the ears?

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