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In addition to ratcheting wrenches, I actually bought one of these at Princess Auto (basically a  equiv of Harbor Freight) for $4 not expecting it to work worth a poo poo.But for $4, the thing worked loving awesome. 
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Mar 11, 2008 19:02
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InitialDave posted:You should probably use proper hydraulic oil - brake fluid can do nasty things to seals in systems designed for mineral oils. Absolutely. The brake fluid will soften/swell up an oil seal tremendously. Eventually when it is under pressure (in your case, that would be jacking up a car) the seal will have catastrophic failure and it will fail. It will work for some time and indeed the "swelling" effect of the seal surface may actually help it "seal" better temporarily, but the pressure capacity of the seal will be compromised. Throw any jack away that you've done this to. The only way it won't fail is if by freak chance the manufacturer made the jack with a seal that is compatible with brake fluid AND oils, which is unlikely. Heck, I don't even know if such a material exists.
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Jun 13, 2008 20:22
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RealKyleH posted:He was a welder by trade and I've never known a welder to measure anything so I bet they're barely used!
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Jun 18, 2008 19:03
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So, coming hat in hand looking for advice because I am a right the gently caress dumbass. I took the TPMS sensor out of my bike wheel to change the battery since I am doing the tires. They typically last about 4-5 years on my bike so I figured I might as well since I have the rubber off. Took it out, had a gently caress of a time splitting the case apart. But, I percerviered and succeeded. Only to realize there was a screw under the label.  I swear, I felt for one because I have done similar gently caress ups like that before, and didn't feel anything.. so I kept prying.  ANYHOW, I now have it apart (hope I didn't gently caress it, PCB seems OK) but I need to get it back together. I need away to keep the two halves together without flying apart on the inside of the rim. Thoughts? I'm thinking, if I can do it, a slightly larger dia screw that will (hopefully) clear the PCB but still bite in the bottom half of the case. Maybe a couple of dabs of silicone around the edge as well, that way if 5 years from now I need to remove it, I should be able to by cutting the silicone and unscrewing. Other ideas? It's a $200 sensor so I'd rather not buy a new one (the screw is top of frame). Edit: I know this isn't exactly the best thread but I thought it wasn't thread worthy on its own and this was closest. slidebite fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Feb 7, 2013 |
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Feb 7, 2013 01:37
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InitialDave posted:Just glue the snapped-off divot of plastic back in place? I could, but it is very small and worry about the strength due to the centrifugal force. Not a crazy idea though. Hypnolobster posted:Epoxy into the messed up hole, let it dry and drill it out to the point where the threads of the screw can re-bite works for me. I've done that on things. A small drill press and a drill press vice help a lot so the bit doesn't just wander. I like the way you think. The heatshrink tubing is a good idea, but I might have a tough time finding it big enough. The battery is a CR2032 and about the size of a quarter. However, I like the thought. That way, even if it were to fail, the tube will keep it together.
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Feb 7, 2013 01:45
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So, I would appreciate recommendations for a tool as a gift. My neighbor is a great guy and he is turning 50. His wife invited Mrs. Slidebite and I over for a party they are hosting in a couple weeks. He is a very smart guy but lacks a lot of tools (and tool-sense). I lend him stuff fairly often, but it's not always the same thing. Things like my power rake attachment for the lawnmower, sledge hammer, 12" long 3/8 drill bit, test light, snake, etc. I'd like something sort of unique that "most" non-tool guys would never buy themselves but at the same time is very handy. He does have the basic hand tools. Stuff like 3/8 ratchet set (which would be adequate for jobs he would tackle) and screw driver and wrench set. I also think the odd thing like a multi-meter and crimp ends. I thought of a little 5 gal compressor set, but I don't know how often he'd actually use it... but it's probably still my front runner. Ideas? Probably like to keep it around the $50-ish range (maybe up to $100 if it is really worth while). Homeowner, RV owner, typical upper middle class dude.
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Apr 13, 2013 18:18
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kastein posted:http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ for the first thing. Hell, every single person who sees mine says "holy poo poo! where did you get that?!"  Ratcheting wrenches. I use mine all the time. He probably just hasn't been introduced to the handiness that they are. That's a good idea too. Thanks guys, any more keep them coming 
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Apr 13, 2013 22:18
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So a customer of mine had a really, really bad day today  
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Nov 15, 2013 01:04
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It's a big boy, about 20' They were moving it to a new location in their shop. They built up some dolleys to put under the feet of it so they could roll it over. Got it on the dolleys, started to move it and that was all she wrote. Center of gravity was just too high and as soon as they moved it, kaplow. Luckily nobody got hurt but when it came down one of the young guys close by pretty much shat himself. I guess it sounded like the rapture was occurring in the shop. Main machinist darn near cried. In the end, the system as they had planned probably would have worked but they really should have had some topside support. Even if they just followed it with a forklift over it to ensure it remained upright. Just too heavy and narrow to be stable. Oh well, 20/20 I guess.
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Nov 15, 2013 01:59
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Couldn't tell you what brand it is, but not sure what you mean by "oilfield lathe" and why it would be one. If it was solid, I can't even imagine how heavy it would be.
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Nov 15, 2013 15:21
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Snarky? Not sure how anything I said is snarky...? Only thing I said is I am not sure why it would be assumed its oilfield duty. I have never heard of that myself. The customer is a general machinist. "Big boy" was just refering to its size... Its a pretty big lathe is all I meant. Nothing hidden or cryptic. E: didnt mean to offend anyone.. Guess I needed to be clearer. slidebite fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Nov 15, 2013 |
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Nov 15, 2013 16:30
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Ahh, I see now I literally didn't even consider for a second that anyone here would not know what a lathe was... or at least recognize it once they realized it was something on its side. I should not have assumed that I suppose. Color me more informed of the variety of posters we have here. e: Also found out a bit more of how it happened. I guess a guy was trying to move it himself 
slidebite fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Nov 15, 2013 |
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Nov 15, 2013 21:06
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Can't speak for Amazon.com, but Canadians might want to keep their eyes open on amazon.ca for some really good tool deals for today/boxing week. Just snagged this: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001E281DG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For $75 and this: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003LST02W/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For $81 ($101 flash deal - $20 instant Bosch rebate)
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Dec 26, 2013 19:54
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TrueChaos posted:What type of lube should I be using with drill bits? I burned one out over the weekend, and would like to not do that again. Cutting oil is ideal. A good industrial supply shop is a good bet.
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Jan 16, 2014 06:19
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Cakefool posted:Power tools: I can see me needing a new battery drill soon and this might be the time I do it properly, any brand recommendations? Anyone use the ryobi one plus system? Can't speak for ryobi, but I am fitting out a Bosch 12V lion setup and I'm very happy with it. The impact is bees knees, batteries hold the charge very well and recharge very fast, <30 min. http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=PS31-2A
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Jan 19, 2014 21:42
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I've been meaning to post about this and finally remembered. Anyone here ever use one of these thread repair kits? http://www.nes.co.il/ I actually had one at the shop and used one to fix a buggered up axle bolt on a BMW bike and the thing works like a champ. http://www.nes.co.il/158905/Nes-1017-External-4-19-mm-5-32-3-4-Internal-8-20-mm-5-16-13-16 I was surprised at how well it worked and having the basic tool which encompasses SAE/metric/whatever threads is cool as hell.
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Jan 28, 2014 22:09
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Can tee it before the regulator? Welding a pressure vessel is pretty specialized and regulated pretty much everywhere as far as I know. Not that you're going to have an inspector knocking on your garage door, but if something did happen and it was because of a weld you might have issues.
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Feb 4, 2014 21:04
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tonedef131 posted:Yeah it's just threaded brass running to the regulator, but it's only 1/4" which isn't ideal for very long runs. I called the local specialty welders and they said they have done it a bunch, could do it for $75. $75 is cheap enough so I'd say go for it. Is it possible the bung on the tank for the regulator actually bigger than 1/4 and just reduced? I've seen that before too. The OEMs like to save a few bucks and go to 1/4 hardware.
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Feb 4, 2014 21:40
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kastein posted:Doesn't the mirror usually just lift up out of those clips? It isn't being clamped against the wall, it is just sitting in them. Pry them open a little, run a utility knife around the mirror parallel to the wall as if you were trying to cut the mirror off the wall to break any paint that's sticking it on, then just lift it up out of the brackets like sir cornelius said. If you're really paranoid about scratching the glass, you could try spraying some rust dissolver (other people make comparable products too) on it first and then try working it.
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Apr 5, 2014 18:16
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Use a high quality universal Dixon or Lincoln 5862 style quick disconnect. copy/paste code:
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Apr 15, 2014 02:59
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Krakkles posted:I'm pretty sure that Dixon coupler is the one on the truck. It looks exactly like it, anyway. quote:So ... good hose to plug into that? Buy a brand name really. Kuriyama makes really good industrial hoses for a good price and you can get air hose in 25' and 50' lengths. You'll find most quality industrial hoses won't come with couplers on them, just an MNPT thread so you can adapt whatever you want to it to fit your system. They make some excellent cold weather hoses if that floats your boat. If you mean the ends it shouldn't make much of a difference since the universal couplings will take the majority of male ends as long as it isn't some sort of chinese unicorn. Any really good industrial supply store that deals with hydraulic hoses and fittings usually have a few good high quality air hoses as well. If you want a specific name of store, try Motion Industries. They might do wholesale only but generally have shops in semi-decent sized towns/cities so they'd be a good bet. slidebite fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Apr 15, 2014 |
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Apr 15, 2014 04:59
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EKDS5k posted:Anybody ever bought anything from Tekton? I've been looking for a set of jumbo wrenches for a while, and they're cheaper even than Princess Auto (which I'm gathering is basically Harbour Freight Canada). I've bought several of their small items from Amazon. Little steel foldable emergency shovel for the truck, hex keys and sockets, other assorted doo-dads. Quality wise seem OK, at least as good as princess auto specials but probably a bit better.
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Apr 17, 2014 14:26
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God I hate Canadian tire, but I have to admit some of their sales are tempting.
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Apr 19, 2014 18:10
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sharkytm posted:Don't forget that three phase power is just an excuse for a VFD. This is true. It wouldn't even be big bucks for a small motor on a lathe.
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May 12, 2014 05:45
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So we're involved in building a new house for my inlaws. They're seniors and expect to hand it off to us in the next 5-10 years so we're being asked what we (Mrs. and I) want it to have so we'll be happy with it. So my question to ask you guys is, if you could build a dream garage from the ground up what would it have? My ideas are as follows: lots of light and 120V plugs 240 power High ceilings so I could install a hoist in the future. How high? If the ceiling is high enough, mezzanine for bulk storage? Radiant heat Nice work area for bench and tool box Sink/water Out of the way corner for a compressor and maybe hard air tubing plumbed on the wall? What am I missing?
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Jul 7, 2014 00:39
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You guys are psychic with the Cat6, already talked about that in the home networking thread in hardware The larger conduit to snake is not something I thought of though. I think floor drains are verboten in local code without a dedicated sump, but if they are not that is a certainty. The garage will be a big triple but they only have one car so room won't be an issue. If we inherit it we have 2 vehicles and couple bikes so we should be ok. Even for the time being, I'll probably winter the bike(s) there for the off season. I like the idea of an I-Beam for a chain hoist. I might not put that in from scratch but I'll make sure the trusses are able to handle one for later. Is a pit a crazy idea if a hoist is doable? e: Heated floors won't happen and to be honest aren't even on my wishlist. The garage will be attached so there will be some heat from the house even with garage heating off. It'll probably only approach freezing on the coldest days of the year at worst. slidebite fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 05:08
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^^ I agree with that. The pit would have and be covered unless needed, but I concur some would see that as a drawback. Little timmy taking a header in a 6.5' hole isn't appealing to most parents. e: Truth be told, I like hosts more anyhow. I am pretty sure they will build the garage as a 3 bay right from the getgo. Probably 2+1. Worst comes to worse if we don't do a pit from the get go, I could bust through the garage slab and dig/pour a pit. Luckily my best friend in town is the manager of the big concrete supplying outfit  Drainage would be an issue though as that would be too late to plumb and make a sump. kastein posted:E: oh yeah, here's a tool recommendation. The posi-lock 5 ton 3 jaw gear puller is badass, I have been using mine for years. It is around 130 on amazon, but worth it. I used mine to pop an 18 year old balljoint taper out of a control arm in the rust belt today and I didn't even have to really crank on it or use the hammer trick to shock the taper out. I sell posi-lock. I'm not a fan of posi-lock. The function is good, but the teeth on the end of the arms stretch easier than I would like and I've seen way more come back on warranty claims than you would think. Double E: Epoxy covering over the concrete is something I'll do. slidebite fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 05:25
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I am not a boat guy so that's not an issue. Good thought though. I am sure the home people would know this, but how high of a ceiling should a person get if you plan on a hoist and mezzanine? 14'? slidebite fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 14:19
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^^ Absolutely. Costco and their return policy is phenomenal. They took back a 7 year old mattress set we had and gave us a 100% refund, no questions asked.  I didn't even expect that in my wildest dreams, I was hoping for something pro-rated. Kilersquirrel posted:Would a small 3-gallon compressor be adequate to run an impact wrench in short bursts(i.e. just breaking things loose on high-torque fasteners rather than disassembling the entire front end of a car with it)? It wouldn't be doing any kind of sustained work so it should be about how high the CFM capacity of the fully-charged tank and hose is rather than what can be sustained by the compressor motor itself, correct? I really don't care about having to wait a few minutes for the compressor to get back up to pressure in between bursts, but I'm a little shaky on how exactly you use the various ratings to calculate air tool requirements. Theoretically yes, but as revmoo said you'd be surprised how quickly you go through the air on an impact. The problem with those really small ones is that if you use it even once every few minutes or so, the compressor will probably never shut off and you'll end up tripping the thermal.
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Jul 7, 2014 19:28
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Rhyno posted:I want this so bad. Absolutely. The easily removable angle is cool as hell with just threading into the slab.
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Jul 9, 2014 05:18
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Hydraulics are stupid easy to repair as long as the rod isn't worn/rusted. If the jack is going to be turfed anyhow, maybe try to take it apart. You might be able to fix it for $2 worth of O-rings and backups. Assuming, of course, you are able to disassemble it
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Jul 10, 2014 01:31
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Sorry, no guide but there is really nothing to a hydraulic cylinder. Just make sure you put the items in the right way. Standard nitrile (the normal black) are generally all that's in them, but the ring back-ups might be made out of something else, urethane is common. If you do some googling you'll probably find something.
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Jul 10, 2014 01:53
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I could use some advice. This is a double-post from CA but I thought some of you clever tool guys might have insight.quote:So I am finally on reassembly of the C14 after the valve clearance job and I have a bit of an issue I can see coming up.
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Jul 13, 2014 15:55
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I like the thought and you're giving me an idea because I don't have a crow foot. I could use an open ended wrench with a standard 1/4" bit and adapt that to the torque wrench. The torque values will be out because it'll be a few inches longer, but I could probably turn it down and be close... Either that or I'm thinking of just marking the # of turns after it seats on one that I can get to, maybe I'll do a combination just to cover my bases. So if we go by your method, If the small open wrench is, say, 3" long and the torque wrench is about 18" long, would I have to decrease the torque value by approx 1/6th (3 divided into 18) because the combined wrench is longer? Make sense or am I over analyzing it?
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Jul 13, 2014 18:26
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Uthor posted:math That's close to what I figured too I don't need to be 100%, hell, my torque wrench is probably off by 5-10% any but I don't want to over analyze it. Appreciate the insight guys.
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Jul 13, 2014 20:04
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EKDS5k posted:I was wondering about these. The site claims that they are as strong as a single gear ratchet. But wouldn't the fact that they are the same size mean that the gear is half as thick, and thus half as strong? http://www.snaponindustrialbrands.com/cat-20-1-89/torque-multipliers-with-handles.htm slidebite fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Jul 16, 2014 |
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Jul 16, 2014 05:36
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In my 20+ years of backyard wrenching, the only time I've really had any issues with 12pt was with a previously rounded head, generally from a crescent wrench or seating a socket cockeyed. I think all my sockets short of impacts as 12pt and I've never had them screw me.
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Jul 16, 2014 07:00
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slidebite posted:In my 20+ years of backyard wrenching, the only time I've really had any issues with 12pt was with a previously rounded head, generally from a crescent wrench or seating a socket cockeyed. I am a boldface liar. I was wrenching on my bike and noticed most of my sockets are 6 point after all. Interestingly my 1/2 drive are 12pt though.
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Jul 17, 2014 06:07
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McSpatula posted:Can anyone recommend a quality tap and die set to keep around for when you really need to chase that dragon? Preferably metric, but I'll take a combination set too. http://www.amazon.com/Combination-Thread-Repair-Set-External/dp/B003YGWPYQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407732442&sr=1-3
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Aug 11, 2014 05:48
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spog posted:I have a literal box of penknives that I can't carry because they lock and the law changed.
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Aug 19, 2014 16:36
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