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I constantly go by OEM torque recommendations ever since the last time I took the humvee to an alignment shop they didn't torque the cam bolts to 300 ft/lbs and I almost lost a wheel assembly while driving a few weeks later. [Company was Big O Tire, they righted things buy paying for repairs and a new alignment no questions asked at a dealer but that chain can go eat a bag of dicks]. After that incident I picked up 3 used good quality Proto torque wrenches off of ebay, a 3/4" 150-300ft lbs unit for big stuff, a 1/2" 50-250 ft lbs for most tasks and a 1000 inch pounds 3/8" unit for small stuff and differential work. Only ran me about 300$ for the 3 wrenches if you are patient [retail for those 3 would run about 1400$]. I double check all torque work done by 3rd party's, even the dealers work. But lately I've been doing all the work on my own so its a non issue. Use torque wrenches only for tightening, use a normal wrench for taking stuff off and the initial tightening. Using the torque wrench as a normal wrench is a pretty expensive option considering you can knock your torque wrench out of calibration. I'd also stock any thread locker and any other goop recommended by the OEM to keep things on spec. A team of engineers sat down and designed things a certain way for better or worse, but when people start over torquing things or not torquing things at all, they wonder why they have vibration issues, leaks and gaskets blowing. If you aren't going to torque anything at all at least torque your wheels. if you want good units that will last a long time with a strong warranty I'd look at the PROTO industrial line, Snap On and Beta for starters. Craftsman should be ok if you are on a budget but they're usually pretty close in price to the higher end stuff so you might as well get the higher end brands. As for the oil filter, I hand tighten them. I hate oil shops who over tighten those fuckers [EZ Lube  ]. It sometimes deforms the seal and you get leaks. Worse you have to use the screw driver technique to remove them on the next oil change.If you want to go all out for torquing pick up a set of crows feet wrenches to go with your torque wrench, then you can start torquing hoses and hard to reach stuff.
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Apr 9, 2008 18:06
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Hypnolobster posted:Anyone want to recommend me a good but relatively cheap torque wrench? Some rear end in a top hat broke ours* and it's well past the 1 year warranty. The rear end in a top hat should buy you a new one, but I guess if he had to borrow it in the first place you're boned  How cheap? If you can afford 100$ you should be able to swing a good condition quality torque wrench from Snap On, Proto, etc off ebay or craigslist or a pawn shop. They usually have very long warranties, if not life time and they'll last forever. If you want a cheapie one, sears may be ok, but I've heard that the warranty for craftsmen torque wrenches are down to 90 days now which says a lot about the quality. Harbor freight may be ok in a pinch for a throw away torque wrench, I wouldn't trust anything important from that store. /edit Linky: If you're looking for new heres a good Proto model, MSC carries most of Protos torque wrenches along with other brands so if thats not in your range there should be something there that fits your needs: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000051982626 You should be able to find a used one for about half that. I always keep an eye out for used Proto stuff, besides the life time warranty, Defense and Aerospace companies use that stuff since it's tested and certified to exceed standards set by the Automotive and defense industries. IMO, Proto exceeds Snap On in quality, and isn't as recognizable as a big name [ie. Snap On] unless you work on oil rigs and other heavy industrial fields where you'll see Proto Tools pop up. This reason why I mention that, is that I find used snapon gear go for more then used proto gear, so you can pick up a quality tool without the higher price. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Apr 12, 2008 |
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Apr 12, 2008 22:53
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hippynerd posted:
It's a handy tool for troubleshooting bad bearings as well, especially on heavy trucks, you can shoot the hubs and check for excessive temperature on moving parts and enclosures. I caught one hub running almost 40 degrees hotter then the others and 1 of the bearings was shot, so that saved some dough by catching the problem early. As for jack stands, what's your life worth to you? Buy the best jack stands you can afford, personally I suggest a non Chinese one. Many of the jacks you see in HF or Pepboys wholesale from Chinese OEM to US Distributors for 2-20$ per set. I don't trust crawling under 4000-8000 lbs on a 20$ cheap metal jack. Theres quality control problems, and the larger brands [ie. Torin] have to keep US staff on site in china 24/7 to ensure the suppliers don't swap in cheaper materials in the middle of a production run. I've seen some of the cheap HF poo poo snap, and I have family involved with lawsuits with another tool brand after a jack stand gave way causing a semi trailer to turn a guys hand into hamburger. I'd hunt down a quality non-Chinese stand from a automotive supply store, usually that means you have to order it through Grainger or another industrial supply source. It may cost twice as much but at least you won't have to worry about stands being made out of chocolate. I'll use most HF stuff in a pinch, no problem. Getting under a truck with HF jackstands. No thanks.
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Apr 20, 2008 04:58
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Cross posted from the Hi Lift jacks will kill you thread. Anyone looking for a decent US made jackstand that aren't made of chocolate should check out US Jack. I use them for working under humvees and poo poo, the 3-5 tons should be ok for most car use.  http://www.jackxchange.com/products/D-41608.cfm I use the cheap poo poo jacks for when I'm lifting but soon as I get under it, the quality stuff goes on. They make good service jacks but they're pricey. 60-80$ over the 20-40$ chain store special. It's worth getting IMO.
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Jun 1, 2008 01:50
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Can't wait for their LA location to open up. I'd like to be able to park my truck some place and be able to spend 12 hours, pull the wheels off, put everything on jack stands and work on seals or the cooling system all day without getting dirty looks from my neighbors or something Holy crap? Injection molding? Paint booths? Rapid prototyping machines? Oh my. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Jun 1, 2008 |
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Jun 1, 2008 09:34
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Ferremit posted:is a sawzall the wrong answer? You'd fit in with all those guys selling the catalytic converters at a pick n' pull 
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Jun 4, 2008 10:23
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Any suggestions for riveting tools? I need to rivet and bond in some patches on the humvee's aluminum body while I got everything apart. I don't have access to an air compressor so it'll probably have to be a hand tool. I'm basically drilling out the ends of cracks, and placing T6 aluminum sheets with pre drilled rivet holes and a slather of bonding agent/epoxy before I snap them in.
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Jun 14, 2008 00:48
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Normally I try to buy US tools or a high quality imported tools after breaking a few cheap sets, but Costco has a pretty good deal on ratcheting wrench sets. SAE and Metric sets for 8$ each, made in taiwan, named Master Grip. Each 8$ set has 9 pieces, with duplicates of the smallest sized wrench but with different handle lengths. Even at 8$, if they break, it's cheap to replace and makes a good "throw away" set to keep in your car in case some crackhead decides to break in and loot your tools.
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Jul 18, 2008 15:59
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Pushlocks are great for air lines that don't get moved around too much, ie secured in place to a machine or frame or wall. I tried a bunch on CTI systems on HMMWV's / H1 and had to switch back to normal Deforming NPT connectors since we'd get air leaks on the hub lines whenever we bent them around to remove wheel assemblies. You can get your air line and connectors setup from mcmaster.com for cheap. /edit As for nylon air lines, go for it, never had problem with the hoses supporting that much PSI over time. One of my buddies with with a compressor system like that in his tool truck. Just make sure the lines you get are supported for the pressure.
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Oct 28, 2008 00:46
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Anyone mess with any of the discharge/charging tools for HVAC service? I have a leaking high pressure A/C line, which I have known about for a few months but now I'm running low on R134, and I'd like to discharge the system safely, then replace the hose assembly myself, then take it to a dealer or shop to recharge with new refrigerant. My truck takes about 3-4 lbs. Basically I'd be happy to do the RnR work myself, and let someone else handle the recharge. Any suggestions? I'll probably need a new dryer and a set of manifold guages.. but what else? Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Feb 23, 2009 |
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Feb 23, 2009 18:45
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Jonny 290 posted:Ha! I gotta get one of those for the truck. That's an awesome idea. Problem is it would only deter professional/career criminals. The local crackhead isn't going to give a poo poo, they'll break in* to steal a empty pack of cigarettes. *-Typically by smashing open the window of an unlocked door.
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Apr 2, 2009 18:36
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Hypnolobster posted:Avoid craftsman torque wrenches. I've had two, and they really like to break. Proto is awesome. Their bigger torque wrenches are certified for military/aerospace and oil industry use. It's a great tool without the "snap on tax". I got 3-4 of them, including a used 3/4" 600 ft lb model that I use for Humvee frame and suspension parts and it was still in spec when I got it shipped from some dudes ebay auction. MSC sells them new if you want to go that route.
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Apr 2, 2009 22:41
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Weissbier posted:How about Home Depot's Husky brand? I read on the intarweb it's made by the sane group that Sears use to have make their craftsman brand. Maybe, but Craftsman hand tools are still made in the USA by the vendor, Husky is made in China. I know that craftsman electrical gear is is re branded Ryobi product.
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Apr 2, 2009 22:45
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944 posted:I heard they used to be Snap On, and now they are Mac (re branded stuff). Anyone know if that's actually the case? Proto is Stanley industrial, mostly made in Georgia. Used by some automakers at plants, as well as the defense industries and nasa [you can order them certified calibrated from the factory if you don't mind waiting a week or two]
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Jul 27, 2009 07:48
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Any suggestions for pressure/purge/testing tool for cooling systems? I'm looking at a few in the 79-149$ price range, I need it to track down/test leaks at hose clamps. I don't need the uber $500-1000 kits with every adapter under the sun, I'm using it on misc military vehicles with old 60's-70's era caps. A few need air, but ideally something with a hand pump so I can work in the field. /edit I was looking at Stant, Kent Moore is out of my price range(maybe not actually), and I'd like to avoid anything with flimsy construction like craftsman/OTC /edit Wound up with a craftsman unit which actually had ok build quality.
Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Sep 4, 2009 |
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Sep 2, 2009 17:37
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scapulataf posted:I see, but don't they completely submerge the piece in the ceramic solution or is it a spray on type thing where they might miss hard to reach spots? If it's like Jet-Hot ( http://www.jet-hot.com/ ) than its similar to powder coating, where you have the inside and outside coated/powdercoated/baked. Unless its a DPF/Muffler or CAT in which case I'm guessing it's an exterior only treatment. Then again if someone is dropping down money on something like Jet-Hot for their entire exhaust system, then they'll probably running a "test pipe" 
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Sep 17, 2009 18:16
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InitialDave posted:Even then, I've destroyed a couple of small, tank-equipped compressors before biting the bullet and getting a reasonably sized one. Yup, I find with compressors I'd like to get the continuous duty cycle models which are pretty nice. The one on my H1's CTI system is a Thomas industries unit that will run continuously, but my model is a low CFM unit, not suitable for tools, but great for inflation. The viair compressor's are pretty nice. My friend has a air spring/bagged truck, and installed a air tank in the bed. The viair is mounted under the hood and can pressureize the tank. He has a air chuck installed behind the bumper so he can plugin and use his air tools. Speaking of vehicle mounted compressors, this was a nice tool we picked up: http://www.airjackusa.com/ We bounced a HMMWV almost a foot into the air when we hit it with compressed air, it's awesome Local fire departments use them for getting heavy poo poo off people but we used it for off road use and it holds up pretty nicely.
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Oct 19, 2009 22:04
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  Hell yes. 4.5" grinder, 12 amps, with bag, 5 year warranty, 2 grinding disks included. I picked up a Dewalt originally, but the loving shank off the motor was too short for any of the sanding pads mounts carried by home depot, including the dewalt branded pads  Ryobi, Milwaukee, Rigid, and all the other brands hand longer attachment shafts.Ah well, I got a powerful unit with more stuff for slightly more money. Rust can't hide from me no longer.  It's therapeutic.
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Nov 8, 2009 21:14
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sharkytm posted:The DeWalt has a removable threaded spacer that makes it so you can hold cutting wheels. Its usually installed by default on all grinders, so you don't lose it. Nonetheless, the Milwaukee is a nice grinder. I'm a Metabo fan myself. The problem I had with the unit I picked up was there was no offset to the bottom of the shank. You can remove the shield and the back spacer, the seat of the shank is flush with the chassis of the grinder, so the disks will rub against the body of the grinder when it's spinning and then it only has 2 threads to lock onto. Very bizzare, I'm guessing whatever model they sold me required very specific grinding/sanding disks that one particular [TUSTIN / IRVINE Home depot I'm looking at you ] location didn't stock.Absolutely happy with the Milwaukee, I picked up a wire brush for it Yesterday. Speaking of which, time to make my rear end down to the shop.
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Nov 9, 2009 16:42
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laymil posted:Dunno if anyone needs it, but if you're looking for a compressor, Sears has the Dewalt D55273, 10.3 SCFM delivered @ 100 PSI and 150 Max PSI, for $400.97 with free (freight) shipping. Right now you can get 8% Bing cash back using the search term 'hdd.' drat that was a good deal, sold out quickly, I was about to get 1 or 2 for the chase trucks on the race team. Pop the wheels off and mount it in the tool box
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Jan 14, 2010 19:44
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Anyone have any recommendations for nutsert/nut insert installation tools. I'm looking at a t-handle type setup, the wrench type installer and a rivet style setup. I need to drill out, collapse and reinstall a few nut serts on an aluminum body. The body/paint shop was susposed to do it and they didn't and now I'm in a situation where I'm going to have to get it touched up after I hack out old nutserts and reinstall. Then again, it's broken off steel screws stuck in them, maybe I can track down a decent diamond tipped bit and drill them out and retap the nutsert... They're #10's in size, so not much margin for error with a drill.. maybe I should pick up a dremmel... Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Jan 21, 2010 |
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Jan 21, 2010 03:41
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Then you bump into things like Class's for the corresponding nuts/locknuts.I had to rebuild a humvee frame using cadmium plated bolts which can be.. uh hard to come by locally. The bolts were all grade 8, but the locknuts were class 10, which was equivalent to grade 8. I wound up using what ever meets ASTM and MIL certification for bigger trucks. I got a fair case of sticker shock, buying the proper bolts, locknuts and washers for a big frame job ran me several hundred dollars and it was about 90 lbs in 2 boxes from mcmaster carr. For anyone that wants to use the "proper" bolts on their project, I suggest checking for a local mcmaster depot or a fastenal location. The only down side is you may only need 4 specific bolts for something but you'll have to buy a pack of 25. I went to Ace hardware once to get black trim screws, they were marked black phosphate which was rust resistant, only for them to completely turn brown and rotten within a week, turns out they were actually black oxide coated 
Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Feb 4, 2010 |
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Feb 4, 2010 00:17
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Any coupons or deals floating out there for swivel impact sockets? I had a small set snap on given to me that.... "walked off". Well not a full set. Just 3 of them. I was looking at 1/2" drive in a few sizes, problem is I need a 1 1/8th for pulling my control arms off, and I'd like to see what's out there before I start dropping 50-60$ for one. Plus the other sizes. It's pricey enough that I may wind up getting a set instead. snapon has a set, and craftsman has one that, oddly enough is almost priced as high as snapon, given that choice I'd go for the snap on. Any other ideas? I was looking at Proto but they don't seem to have the size sockets I need. SK seems decent with a slightly better price than snap on. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Mar 5, 2010 |
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Mar 5, 2010 02:43
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meatpimp posted:If I'm under the car, I want nice, solid, welded metal jacks that in no way fold, just out of principle. A quality jack stand as well. http://www.usjack.com/ Problem is, many jacks/stands sold in retail stores are .. kinda junk, you have to special order something decent. I wound up getting my usjacks from jackxchange somewhere in orange county, CA.
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Mar 5, 2010 20:22
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DKWildz posted:Having mixed feelings about Snap-On coming to our shop again. The wallet is screaming, but the ratchets are sooooo nice. So much more stuff to get too, but it costs so drat much. On the upside, if you ever have to sell it, you can usually get about 75% of the value for it, or trade it with another mechanic for something else. I wound up calling the Snap On truck for the first time today. I needed a few impact swivel sockets to work on my suspension and wound up ordering other stuff. Those new ratchets are really nice, the dual 80's. Wound up ordering a set of the newer style ratchets, the rest of my order shows up next week. I had a full set of craftsmen, which will make a fine backup set, but the craftsman ratchets pissed me off, a bit too much slop and they don't always fit that great in tight spaces. The heavy truck stuff [3/4" drive] I'll stick with Proto. I was going to go with Proto for smaller stuff but it costs the same as Snap On, and they don't make swivel sockets, plus Snap on and the other truck based tool places will at least show up to swap out tools if you get a good vendor. One way to save a bit money with snap on is to order the industrial finish versions as an option. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Mar 12, 2010 |
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Mar 12, 2010 07:33
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CornHolio posted:That looks like what I need, but where can I get that? It doesn't look like that one's available online. Here's where I buy my new proto tools: http://www.grainger.com http://www.mscdirect.com
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Mar 28, 2010 18:57
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MetaJew posted:Right, lifting from the pumpkin is perfectly fine. But putting stands under the pumpkin or the half shafts sounds like an easy way to ruin your day. My favorite jacks and jack stands are US Jack. They're not widely availble in retail though. http://www.usjack.com/ I buy mine through: http://www.jackxchange.com/ http://www.jackxchange.com/products/D-41608.cfm The US Jack Jackstands are bitchin, extra nice, extra welds around the perimeter, nice thick steel, and a double prawl design to lock the supports in place.
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Apr 5, 2010 23:50
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Any recommendations for a aluminum service jack? That's serviceable? The 2 companies I buy shop jacks from doesn't have an aluminum model. I'm looking for something around a 3 ton capacity for desert racing, it seems to be a real toss up between buying and replacing cheap chinese jacks a few times a year or shell out $800-1400 for a high end jack. There's got to be something between Harbor Freight and Craftsman vs Pace and brunnhoelzl right?
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Apr 7, 2010 22:24
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Just use 2! As someone else stated, 1.5 tons is kinda useless [for big off road racecars/trucks] as my friend figured out. Would be fine for pushing a control arm in place while everything else is on jackstands.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  The height isn't a big issue, most teams either fab up an extension adapter, buy one or use a block of 4x4 wood. Kartek makes a few accessories for the craftsman 3 ton jack including dirt wings, dirt sled, monster truck wheels [to add height]. But the problem is the build quality went downhill on the craftsman jacks, I believe there's a brand new model just hitting stores now. I think I may go for the harbor freight 3 ton for now, take the bolts off and redo them with red loctite and save up my pennies for one of these:  It's a brunnhoelzl on a custom fabricated dolly. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Apr 8, 2010 |
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Apr 8, 2010 18:20
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PabloBOOM posted:
If you got a bit of money to blow, the "big name tool truck brands" have an industrial finish version of their hand tools which are treated black and not chromed for cheaper than the chrome finished tools. Craftsmen has got a few nice kits for a good price.
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Apr 9, 2010 15:55
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PBCrunch posted:There is a reason most tools come chromed. It is a durable finish that is easy to keep clean. Absolutely true, usually the big wrenches I'll get in an industrial finish because it's stuff I use once a year, i don't care how it looks and I rattle can a portion of them bright safety yellow for visibility and identification .Most of my sockets are industrial finish for impact use anyways.
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Apr 11, 2010 17:01
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Is there a recommendation for a good ratcheting terminal crimper? I had it with the standard stamped metal things. The last one I used couldn't crimp butt connectors properly and actually bent while I was crimping a harness  I was looking at getting a Greenlee unit for around $50 or so, like this: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4CN29?Pid=search Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Apr 16, 2010 |
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Apr 16, 2010 18:07
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Best zip ties I had were MIL Spec / SAE certified ones like from Norco and other companies. They held up on the few trucks I've worked on for 10 years of UV exposure, salt water exposure and heat. Heck I think even the home depot ones say they meat MIL/SAE specifications on the back of them.
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Apr 21, 2010 20:21
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RealKyleH posted:There's a difference in "meeting the spec" and being qualified to it. Any idea what the spec number on the package was (e.g. MIL-DTL-22520 or AS22520 for hand crimping tools)? I can often lookup what companies are qualified to certain products. I'll look it up this weekend when I pull my tools and parts out.
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Apr 22, 2010 00:08
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RealKyleH posted:I work for DMC and can highly highly recommend the DMC DCT4 series. If you need one for R/B/Y teminals its the DCT4-102. They have a very strong frame and all the dims gaged right on (+/- .001 or less). The crimp cavities are also less likely to get stuck on shielded terminals because they aren't simply round like the HF tool. I don't think I am allowed to say anything about numbers until they are published but suffice it to say they can last a long time even used daily. Jumping back to this post, I went ahead and ordered the DCT4 from DMC today. Does DMC make any tools for crimping/disassembling weatherpak connectors?
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Apr 22, 2010 18:38
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 New toy inside! New toy inside! Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 600x800 image. Just in time for my locker/fuse box wiring. Watch, I'll have the drat thing lost in a few days...
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Apr 29, 2010 17:29
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ab0z posted:Well this IS the tools thread, and it's kinda insane for a hobbyist to spend that much on one tool... After throwing out 2-3 other crimpers, it'll pay for itself. I have to do a few harnesses for diesel conversions, and spending $200 on crimpers [I ordered a weatherpak kit from another vendor], is a heck of a lot cheaper then buying OEM harnesses and getting a shop to do up costume wiring for you. Heck I've seen shops charge $100-250 for $7 worth of cable and connectors for a diesel IP remote mount kit. $100 isn't a lot for a tool you use often. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Apr 29, 2010 |
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Apr 29, 2010 18:45
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ab0z posted:Trust me I meant insane in a good way I totally agree, its overkill for most folks, and I'm sure getting an el cheapo ratcheting crimper will be good enough in most cases. Once I'm done with the wire harness work I'll probably start using it to wire up a few stepper motors to a Proxxon micro mill so I can start CNC'ing small parts. But that won't be until late summer at the earliest. Got to sell some crap first to make room.
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Apr 29, 2010 20:25
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Baby Hitler posted:Who buys worm clamps anyway, I always get the rolled-edge ones with the teeth molded in. Worth twice the price if on something that has high temperature variances or less than stellar hose or nipple. Those ones are awesome, I switched to them when I redid my cooling system a few months back.
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May 1, 2010 04:34
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Z3n posted:Is there a recommendation for high quality electrical tape? Generally, need to use it for wrapping wiring harnesses, plus other odds and ends. Whenever I can't use heatShrink, I use 3M tape, and if it's bundling together a bunch of harneses, I use something like Silicon tape [Brand Rescue tape]. That silicon stuff is neat since you can use it to fix hydraulic leaks and coolant leaks in some cases since it can withstand high temperatures and pressures.
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May 10, 2010 19:23
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