BMW Thread: this is the bmw thread. we drive blue cars

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > BMW Thread: this is the bmw thread. we drive blue cars

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SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

This baby turns 6 this summer. Still an absolute joy to drive and so far so good on reliability and maintenance costs.

# ¿ Mar 28, 2008 16:37

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# ¿ May 5, 2024 16:58

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Jonontherun posted:

I've never heard of the Truth About Cars, but it seems to suck pretty bad.

They're the idiots that got royally flamed a few years ago for a mindbogglingly stupid editorial titled "Death to the Stick Shift" that argued slushboxes were "safer, more reliable and more pleasurable than their manual equivalents."

# ¿ May 6, 2008 19:46

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Jonontherun posted:

So it's just an ironic name then? Like a huge motherfucker named Tiny.

It can't be truly ironic, because they aren't in on the joke.

# ¿ May 6, 2008 21:17

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Daveh posted:

City driving (with the M button off) will net you around 20 UK MPG (around 24 US MPG)
Long distance cruising at 70 MPH will get you around 30 UK MPG (36 US MPG)
With the M Button on and driving kinda hard you're looking at 8-12 UK MPG (9.6 to 14 US MPG)
I don't know whether the US spec M3 requires as-high-Octane as the UK Spec, though, so it may be different in the US.

You've got the conversion backwards. US gallons are smaller than imperial gallons.

20 UK MPG = 16.7 US MPG
30 UK MPG = 25 US MPG
8-12 UK MPG = 6.7 - 10 US MPG

The fuel specs for the Euro and NA versions are the same 98 RON = 93 (R+M)/2

# ¿ Jun 6, 2008 20:47

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

BuckWild20 posted:

So I was having a problem with my E46 and was wondering if this was the right thread to post in:

After I turn off the car the fan (it's the auxiliary fan that's attached behind the radiator and in front of the block) continues to run at full blast. At first I thought it'd turn off but after an hour or so it was still running. It actually kept running until the batteries ran dry, and when I plugged it into another car to jump it the fan still continued to run until I just unplugged it. Anyone have any ideas?

Stuck relay would be my guess.

# ¿ Jun 23, 2008 20:01

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Noeland posted:

So I have a question (BMW-ish related).
Due to the factory camber on the rear my M-coupe, my rear tires wear extremely unevenly. I'm talking I'm starting to see the belt on the inside while the outside of the tires appear to be drat near 100%. there wouldn't happen to be a tire that has a harder interior compound and softer exterior compound, would there? If not, any recommendations on a new set of rear tires in the sub $350/pair range?

That sounds pretty normal for wide rear tires with that much stock camber. Get a tread depth guage and check. On my M3, I would typically wear the innermost tread groove down to 2/32" with 4 or 5/32" left on the outermost.

That's just one of the M taxes, I'm afraid.

# ¿ Jul 14, 2008 12:04

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Sterndotstern posted:

that's a problem, hmm.

Check out your local PCA. Fortunately for me, PCA allows cars with factory pop-up protection, and they run most of the DEs that happen locally anyway. So for me it's only a small loss that BMWCCA is so prissy about roll bars.

# ¿ Aug 14, 2008 22:03

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

kimbo305 posted:

Aren't PCAs sorta make-exclusive?

You must own a Porsche to join the club, but you do not have to be a PCA member to take part in their DEs (at least here). There are all kinds of different makes that participate in the DEs - Porsches only make up 50% or so, and there are lots of BMWs.

# ¿ Aug 15, 2008 01:46

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Call a dealership parts counter and tell them you need a window regulator for an '04 X3 2.5. They'll help you find the right part.

# ¿ Aug 18, 2008 22:17

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

The Locator posted:

So I ran a real road course with the car for the first time today, and while it ran great and I had fun, it had some heating issues that I need to get resolved before I do it again.

Car: E36, 95' M3.

Normally, the temperature stays rock steady, just to the right of the middle of the gauge. Today, running the road course at PIR, the car would start to heat up after about 5 minutes of hard running, and for the rest of the session, I would have to run the NASCAR portion of the track in 5th gear at partial throttle to drop the temp. I was doing this on every lap, which was fairly annoying, but at least I got to do the curves as hard as I could drive.

Does anyone else track their M3 that has encountered heating issues and resolved them? If so, any suggestions on what I should start checking to remedy the situation?

I did discover that one blade of the fan has broken and departed this world, so I know I need to replace the fan. The water pump and radiator are both new (less than 3000 miles on them).

Does the E36 have the buffered temperature gauge? Are you sure the heating was abnormal?

I know on the track, my E46 sees oil temperatures about 50 degrees hotter than I see on the street. I'm pretty sure the coolant gauge only reads the same in both places because of the buffering they did to shut idiots up...

# ¿ May 5, 2009 03:05

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

The Locator posted:

I have no idea what this 'buffering' is that you speak of. Is there some way to know if my car is equipped with this 'feature'?

It was indicating much hotter than I'm comfortable with, and I was able to get it to drop partially back to the normal spot by short shifting and keeping the RPM down in the straight, so it doesn't seem like I have this.

The buffered temperature gauge is designed to point exactly in the middle of the movement for a range of normal temperatures, instead of having a 1:1 relationship between temperatures and needle positions. The needle only moves when the temperature is significantly above or below the normal operating temperatures. It basically reduces the functionality of the temp gauge to barely more than an idiot light.

A quick googling finds mention of buffered temp gauges in E36s, so it seems you do have this "feature"

# ¿ May 5, 2009 14:17

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

The Locator posted:

That's a pretty stupid feature for "the ultimate driving machine"!

I agree wholeheartedly, but apparently it cuts down on service appointments for cars that run "a little hot" or "a little cold" or "don't hold a constant temperature" :rolleyes:

# ¿ May 6, 2009 13:21

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Understeer posted:

One more question though: does the cooling system on an E46 definitely need replacement between 60k-100k like on the E36?

E46 cooling systems are a whole lot more sound than E36 systems. Still need to keep an eye on them, but preemptive rebuilds of the entire system every 60K are not warranted. I'd probably go ahead and change the pump and t'stat at 100k, though.

# ¿ May 13, 2009 00:55

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

meatpimp posted:

What do I need to know when looking at a '97 540i manual with 110k miles? I'm comfortable with performing any servicing needed, are there certain problem areas to look for / check out?

I've always liked the 540i and it's right at the top of my budget for an around-town car... am I insane for looking?

Also, I believe that is squarely in the Nikasil era. Make sure compression is OK.

# ¿ May 16, 2009 16:22

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

peterjmatt posted:

Well, without air tools tightening the locknut on the top of the strut might be a bit of a pain in the rear end. I'm sure there's a special tool so you can get a hex to hold the strut from spinning while you tighten the nut, but I've never used one.

Other than that it's all simple nuts and bolts.

FWIW, TIS says specifically to NOT use an impact wrench to remove or install the nut at the top of the strut.

There is a special tool called for, but you can approximate it with a long allen wrench, a deep socket, and a pair of vise grips.

Also, I discovered that you can use an autozone pitman arm puller to press the tie rod and control arm out of the steering knuckle/hub, but that you should leave the nut on and flush with the top of the stud when doing so to protect the stud. Failure to do this resulted in a slightly mushroomed stud that I had to dremel off a few turns of thread to get the nut on to re-install.

# ¿ Jul 14, 2009 04:28

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

peterjmatt posted:

...You realize you just corrected me for using an unapproved method to tighten a nut, then promptly recommended an unapproved procedure to break a ball-joint free.

I'm not saying your way doesn't work, I'm just pointing out the fact that while BMW instructions are nice to have, they're hardly the only way to do things.

I'm sure someone could be completely retarded and destroy a strut with an impact, but it's a very, very common procedure.

I don't always do things by the book either, just pointing it out.

And my ball-joint removal procedure is pretty close to the recommended method - the special tool called for is basically a scissoring pitman arm puller that mates specifically with the hex key in the top of the stud. I would not use a pickle fork to remove either ball joint.

# ¿ Jul 14, 2009 15:15

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

CornHolio posted:

Well if thats the case, Ill wait till it really gets annoying (as in doesnt work at all), then Ill send it to this guy and get it fixed for $49 plus shipping.

You better not let the tools in BF&C know.

# ¿ Jul 18, 2009 17:05

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Taymar posted:

Could anyone confirm that I'm interpreting this correctly, and it is in fact tighten to the specified torque, then a further 90 degrees?

My copy of TIS says 59Nm and then 90 + 30 degrees. It also says nothing about mandatory bolt replacement.

# ¿ Jul 26, 2009 23:25

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Taymar posted:

Thanks for looking this up, do you recall if this was for the coupe or sedan?

Sedan. 2004 330i to be exact, but the Coupe has the same spec anyway.

# ¿ Jul 27, 2009 15:06

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

PXJ800 posted:

Other than the obvious, if I were to pick up a stock-ish 2001/2002 M3 with 65K-95K miles, what is there to look out for when checking one out for purchase? What am I in for that might not be represented on the maintenance schedule, and what's a ballpark on the yearly maintenance costs?

For the past 3 years, my '02 M3 (currently 74K mi) has been out of warranty, and I have spent about $2400/yr on maintenance and repairs. That time period includes substantial outlays for shocks, struts, and RTABs, which should not need anything further until at least 120K mi.

I do most work myself, to keep costs down, but I also have to keep the car up to the tech standard for the track. So things like slightly leaking PS hoses that I would have tolerated on a daily driver had to get replaced. The track also chews up tires, brakes, and oil faster than I would otherwise, and those represent a substantial chunk of that cost, too.

So you could probably get that down in the $1500-$2000 /yr range and still keep the car in good shape.

# ¿ Aug 19, 2009 00:03

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Doctor Grape Ape posted:

Axxis Ultimates

Seconding this. I picked up a set and they were even cheaper than the OEM Jurid/Texar pads, and dust way less. They give a nice firm pedal feel as long as you don't overheat them, which you shouldn't need to worry about if you're not tracking the car.

# ¿ Sep 8, 2009 05:07

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Taymar posted:

Also, without specific fault codes it's not possible to say whether pre or post-cat sensors are more likely to cause a rich condition, is it?

Much more likely to be the upstream sensor. I think the downstream sensor is only used to measure catalytic efficiency.

# ¿ Sep 24, 2009 16:24

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

McMadCow posted:

Awesome, thanks for that. I was going to ask.

Also, since this seems to be the right place- has anyone replaced the power steering hoses on these? The PO says they're leaking and I want to get that taken care of ASAP. Looking for parts though, there seems to be more than one option. How do I figure out which one I need? Is there a particular section that leaks?

Any of the hoses could be leaking. Easiest way will be to visually inspect them and see if it's obvious. If it's not obvious, try de-greasing them and then driving a round for a bit to see if that makes it easier to tell.

# ¿ Oct 12, 2009 20:24

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Wouldn't be easier (and not terribly expensive) to just buy the BMW pack from AutoEnginuity? It looks pretty comprehensive from their list of modules they claim the ability to talk to.

# ¿ Nov 11, 2009 06:19

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Black88GTA posted:

A power sunroof adds tons of extra weight at the highest point of the car.

It also consumes quite a bit of headroom inside the car, which can lead to head clearance issues if you are particularly tall or take it anywhere you have to wear a helmet (i.e. any track).

# ¿ Dec 20, 2009 01:00

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Yep, that's power steering all right. Is there fluid in the reservoir?

The belt is probably OK (or you'd have a bunch of lit idiot lights on the dash) but check that too.

E46 power steering hoses like to leak as the age, so there's a pretty good chance that you've been slowly losing fluid for a while (not fast enough to notice) and today was the day the fluid level got too low to allow the system to work.

If the belt and fluid level are OK, you've got a problem with the pump or steering rack.

# ¿ Jan 11, 2010 07:17

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

wolrah posted:

Along the same lines, any recommendations for what pads to get? I don't think I'll need new rotors, but I'm not against replacing them if there's a tangible performance increase. My driving is mixed city/highway with random hooning about mixed in, so no special high-wear performance parts, but if there's something better than stock but cheaper/same price I'd like to know about it.

I really like Axxis Ultimate for a street pad. They can often be had for less than the Jurid/Texar OEM pads (which are also just fine). Stick with OEM rotors.

# ¿ Jan 14, 2010 06:41

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

King-Kong posted:

Any tips for pads or other brake work when it comes to E9x's?

...just starting to get into AutoX and Road Racing.

I'm running PFC 06 pads on the track (e46) and really liking them. These are a track-only pad, though.

# ¿ Feb 16, 2010 15:32

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

ozziegt posted:

Is it worth it to join the BMWCCA?

I think so. You get Roundel magazine, and a discount at most dealership parts windows. Plus if you ever buy a new BMW, you get $500+ in rebates through the club

# ¿ Apr 3, 2010 01:00

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Arwox posted:

Ok so this is another plea for help on a problem ive had for a while.

e36 m3.

Every once and a while (no not at a certain speed and not just when braking) my wheel will shake. Its exactly as if I have a warped rotor but only on the front left wheel. This problem starts and stops at its own will. Ill drive it every day to and from work for a week, and it wont happen. But the next week one day, the same trip it will happen. And then go away after maybe 10 minutes.

It has to be something with the brakes, because I can feel it tugging to the left and hear it groaning when I start off from a stop. I inspected the calipers one day after it happened, and the front left caliper was radiating ALOT of heat. I couldn't touch it for more than a second it was so hot. Its not as if the brake is locking up, it feels like its grabbing and letting go.

Anyone have any idea?

Sounds like something in the brakes binding up or a sticking piston/hanging pad. Are the pads worn evenly inboard/outboard and left side/right side?

# ¿ Apr 6, 2010 01:47

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

^^^ Just get whatever OEM-equivalent Pelican sells.

# ¿ Apr 8, 2010 03:49

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Arwox posted:

I think I'm just going to get a pair of new rotors and calipers because .

You might want to try a caliper rebuild kit first. Sounds like you have a sticking piston on the left side.

# ¿ Apr 14, 2010 04:11

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

CornHolio posted:

Hey! Hey guys! Wanna see something gross?!

Old PS fluid comes out

New fluid goes in

(repeat about six times after starting car and turning wheel a few times...)

I used all three quarts that I bought, and the fluid was looking better but still not red. It was more purply. So I might do it again in a month or so.

The steering feels a lot better already. It makes me ill thinking that that stuff was in my car.

Next week hopefully will be the diff oil.

For your future reference, it's really not that much harder to open a drain bolt on the bottom of the pump or disconnect one of the lines from the pump and drain the system from there. The advantage of this method is that you get much more of the fluid out in one shot so you don't need to flush it a million times to get a complete fluid change.

# ¿ Apr 20, 2010 03:34

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Lowclock posted:

Can you press the gas and brake at the same time while moving (left foot brake) without it freaking out?

Yes, you can left-foot brake SMG cars just as well as all the others.

# ¿ Apr 26, 2010 02:31

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

I found out today my diff carrier is hosed and needs to be replaced. This is gonna hurt. :smith:

# ¿ Apr 28, 2010 02:57

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

Gettin' a diff carrier and clutch pack from a brand-new M5. :pervert:

Gonna cost me $2100 installed. :suicide:

# ¿ Apr 29, 2010 13:04

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

VibrioCholera posted:

I'm not sure how M3 Launch Mode works but could this time be the result of poor summer tires? I'm running General Tire Exclaim UHP which are fine on the road. What I'm wondering is how the launch mode takes them. I know it has traction control in it so is it sensing the car wants to spin because of cheap tires and therefore causing a loss of time? If so what are some reasonable street tires with better grip? Looking around some 19" tires can cost almost $400 a tire. There has to be a better option that hovers closer to $250 or under?

You definitely could be limited by traction available. Launch mode will use the wheel speed sensors to modulate throttle, so more grip=more go.

I'll second the Hankook Ventus V12 recommendation. Car and Driver liked them more than the PS2: http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/comparisons/09q2/tire_test_nine_affordable_summer_tires_take_on_the_michelin_ps2-comparison_tests . And even in 19"s, they're <$200 from tire rack.

# ¿ May 7, 2010 14:38

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

VibrioCholera posted:

Odd. So those (for the price) would be pretty much the stickiest street tire I can obtain?

For that price, yes. There are definitely stickier street tires available, but they'll cost more and that 19" factor limits what's available. You might also want to check out: Bridgestone RE-11, Yokohama Advan Neova, and Toyo Proxes R888. All of those are sticker, available in some 19" sizes, but cost more.

I've been running the Hankooks on my M3 as a dual purpose street/HPDE car. I'm very happy with the tire considering the price. If I ever get a set of dedicated track wheels, though, I'd put something stickier on.

# ¿ May 7, 2010 22:57

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

EvilMoFo posted:

the rear brakes are about gone on my 2003 325i, what should I put on there? I am looking at tirerack and can not make up my mind as to which to get

I am leaning toward these

edit: also, any estimates on how much will the dealer swindle from me to get a new sensor?

I like Axxis (aka PBR) Ultimates for a street pad. I was able to get them cheaper than OEM pads, too.

# ¿ May 7, 2010 22:59

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# ¿ May 5, 2024 16:58

SlapActionJackson: Jul 27, 2006

madrugan posted:

I've heard they also settle in cooler climates, due to the higher nylon count, so you get wobble for a few minutes in the morning. Confirm/deny? (Hankook v12s 18" are probably my next e46 M3 update in a few weeks).

I live in Texas, so I have no idea what these tires do in cooler climates. They were fine down to 40ish degrees that we see for lows occasionally in March. I certainly wouldn't run them as winter tires in places that have a real winter.

# ¿ May 8, 2010 04:44

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > BMW Thread: this is the bmw thread. we drive blue cars

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