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Jaxx posted:The engine and gearbox escaped under the car, and I think that’s what bore the brunt of it. Yes, the mounts are specifically designed to break in this fashion, helping to dissipate the energy of the crash by throwing the engine under the bus, so to speak.
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Jul 3, 2010 04:05
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fartingfool posted:When did BMW start to actively design and impliment this kind of behavior for an accident? Call me ignorant, but I feel like it's a fairly modern safety feature. I'm not sure of the exact start date either, but pretty much every design in the modern era (90s +) does this to help meet modern crash safety standards.
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Jul 3, 2010 15:40
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FIRST TIME posted:It's actually an E34 but I assume the advice about the Bentley manual still stands? A grey-market copy of TIS on ebay will be cheaper, but the Bentley will be more step-by-step oriented for beginners.
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Jul 7, 2010 01:48
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The Locator posted:Hankook RS3's I'm currently running Hankook Ventus V12 Evo as a dual street/HPDE tire and am very pleased. They're downright cheap when you consider the alternatives.
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Jul 7, 2010 01:50
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outkastist posted:My e46 m3 seems to not be running the aux fan anymore. I have been researching in the interwebz, and it seems a bit ambiguous as to whether the trouble shooting is the same as an e36 or not. Can anyone give me some input/e46 specific troubleshooting tips? Haven't had to deal with this yet. If it doesn't run at all, I'd start by checking for power at the connector and go from there.
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Jul 15, 2010 01:47
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It's possible that you damaged it, and also possible that it's just old and needs to be rebuilt/replaced. You should also inspect the flex lines. If they're the originals, you might want to consider replacing them.
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Jul 20, 2010 17:50
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In that case, are you extremely sure there's not still air in there somewhere? replacing that much line give air lots of places to hang out in the new components. I don't think there's a way to visually verify the MC, since the problem is likely to be internal seals. Does the brake pedal sink under constant pressure or just feel spongy?
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Jul 20, 2010 18:08
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The sinking pedal is telling. Either you've got a leak or the MC is bad.
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Jul 20, 2010 18:42
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havelock posted:Maybe I'm just used to BMW now so Audi seems fresh. The 75k M3 interior seemed on par with the 48k S4s, but the 328 seemed outmatched by the A4. I don't know if you're the kind of guy who does his own maintenance, but every time I have to fix something on my wife's passat, it makes me want to punch a VW engineer in the nuts. The e46 is a maintenance dream in comparison.
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Jul 25, 2010 18:41
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The 'E' codes are model-generation designations. Since BMWs have been named the same thing across multiple generations, the E codes are a handy way to specify which generation of car you're talking about. http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/e_code.shtml The 2005+ M6s are E63s (coupes) or E64 (convertible). The potential flaw in your plan is maintenance cost. A two year old M6 may only cost you 60K, but it will still have the maintenance cost of a 100K car, including the 'M-tax'. You will either need to become willing and able to service it yourself, find a good and reasonably priced independent shop, or be prepared to pay out the rear end at the dealership. To get an idea of what you're in for ask how much for an Inspection 1 (you'll need this every 25-30K miles) and Inspection 2 (every 50-60K).
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Jul 31, 2010 23:04
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Flyinglemur posted:Is there anything else about the 6 or M6 I should know about like bad transmission/shocks/ejection seats? I'm not an expert on E63s by any means, but I'm not aware of any serious mechanical defects in the line. Pretty much all high end modern German cars have a reputation for electronic gadgets that go on the fritz, though. Have fun with it.
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Aug 1, 2010 06:32
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VibrioCholera posted:
Crow foot wrench or open-ended wrench at an angle and hope it's not on too tight.
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Aug 6, 2010 01:33
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ljw1004 posted:My '88 325i decided not to start this afternoon. The key turns in the ignition, and the engine fires up while the key's turned, but it dies as soon as I release the key. Pressing down the gas pedal has no effect. Sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Check your fuel pressure regulator, filter, and pump.
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Aug 6, 2010 14:47
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ljw1004 posted:However, even when I took the pump out and delivered 12v to it with a transformer, it didn't make a noise. Transformers put out AC. Try hitting the pump with 12v DC from a battery charger.
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Aug 11, 2010 03:02
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In that case, it seems like you do have a dead fuel pump.
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Aug 11, 2010 14:17
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ozziegt posted:Now, if you are going to compare the 2nd gen G35 / G37 to an E46, I don't really see any reason to go with the BMW except the BMW would be cheaper. Don't the G3xs have engine and brake overheating issues on the track?
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Aug 23, 2010 19:24
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LifeSizePotato posted:I don't know if I have a dilemma here or not. I'm having almost the same dilemma. ED on an E90 M3 or cash in my new-car token for a track slut E46. I want this in a bad way, too: http://www.flickr.com/photos/52260651@N06/sets/72157624420292265/
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Aug 30, 2010 16:42
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Raymn posted:I wish I knew someone that could just fab up the tool. It looks so simple and just makes me hate life more thinking about buying one. If you're that insistent on saving the $35, make it yourself: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=254623 All you need is a steel bar, a drill and a sawzall.
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Sep 2, 2010 19:35
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edit: redundant
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Sep 2, 2010 20:01
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My alternator decided to poo poo the bed this morning as I was on my way to the track. Cost me $500 and my morning sessions to replace it. Why the gently caress couldn't you have broken during the week, when repairing it would have been easier and not cost me any track time? 
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Sep 12, 2010 02:20
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Thanks, but I mean where can I get a factory service manual? I found the Bentley manual, like I linked in my earlier post. Copies aren't too hard to find on ebay. Search for "bmw tis"
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Nov 2, 2010 05:21
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I'm sure none of them are legit, but what do you mean it's not helpful? I bought one that delivered the TIS database just fine.
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Nov 2, 2010 14:17
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revmoo posted:Are E36 and E46 water pumps the same part? No. mindphlux posted:My driver seat has something wrong with the seat adjuster - the seat slides forward and back fine, and tilts forward and back fine - but the part that just adjusts the upper backing part of the seat is a bit hosed - it'll tilt backwards, but not forwards. lol, so I've been driving around in a car for like 6 months that's pretty wack. I can tilt the entire seat around enough such that it doesn't bother me too much, but it's been on my list of things to do. The plastic gears that work the backrest tilt mechanism wear down over time and stop working. This is a fairly common problem, so you can find replacement gears and instructions online by googling for "e36 power seat gear repair". This is DIY repair, no problem. And don't be afraid to take the seats out of the car - it's just 4 bolts. Sterndotstern posted:I'm getting kind of tired of people who whine about the "M tax" or the "Hans the Mechanic raping my wallet" or whatever: Assuming he's got an E46 M3, it's a semi-legitimate whine. The M uses a different pump from the other E46s that costs substantially more ($70 vs $480 for OEM at Pelican)
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Nov 18, 2010 15:27
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Pissingintowind posted:As long as you don't let air into the ABS circuit or let the fluid reservoir run dry, you'll be fine. If you do, you'll need the dealer's computer to cycle the ABS if you don't feel like loving with paper clips and shorting things. Don't forget that the clutch shares the brake fluid, and it should be bled too! There's a bleeder valve underneath the car. This is true, but you should be aware that doing a flush without cycling the ABS system does not get all of the old fluid out of the ABS pump and accumulator. If the condition of the old fluid is really horrific, you might want to spring for a flush at a shop with the tool. The alternate method is to do a complete flush, then do a bunch of hard ABS stops to cycle the pump, then do another complete flush.
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Nov 26, 2010 05:26
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It's not supposed to do this, right?  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zo4sU6gUWV0 At least it broke loose the day after I got back from the track instead of on it. TMS solid diff bushings, here I come. On a serious note, should I do subframe bushings and rear control arm bushings at the same time? (Car is 02 M3 w/ 86K mi, it does DD and HPDE duties) It would ruin the alignment I had done literally last week. 
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Dec 9, 2010 03:36
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Did a good bit of work on the M3 this weekend. Took the car apart last weekend waiting for the parts to arrive. This is the bugger that was clunking around, but I've decided to take the opportunity to replace all the bushings in the rear of the car.  After hacking the old bushings with drills, sawzalls, and air chisels, I could use the press even at odd angles to get the last bits out.  I used a similar technique on the front diff mount. Cut out the inner part, use a push saw with a metal bit to weaken the sleeve, then finish it off with an air chisel. Control arms were simple enough with the press. Use a bushing driver ring to push the old one out, and a close-enough hex socket to push the new one in.  For the lower arms, it's a bit trickier because the outer sleeve is not one solid piece. TIS calls for a special tool to keep the two halves from pinching together, but I made my own from some 10 & 12 mm long screws and nuts:  Bushings in the diff cover were easy on the press. I'm installing Turner solid mounts, so I just used the new solid bushings to press the old ones out in one step.  That leaves the subframe bushings and front diff mount left to install. I couldn't get it lined up on the press to push the new ones in, so I'm gonna need to make a home depot busing tool to get the remaining ones in.
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Dec 20, 2010 07:09
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Taco Box posted:Valve cover gasket, which I realize is on the passenger side, but the whole scenario sounds just like how mine started leaking. I would also check the whole power steering system since it's notorious for leaking.
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Jan 16, 2011 23:24
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Deceptor101 posted:Yeah I'm going to avoid cross drilled like the plague. Whats the thoughts on slotted? Only good if you have tons of money to burn? Better to spend the money on pads? What's the consensus on bimmerbrakes.com's stuff. Their blank rotors are much cheaper than I've been able to find zimmerman or brembo's. Perhaps I'm not looking at the right sites. Quality blank rotors are the way to go. Slotted are only worth it if you're going to run a pad that is known for major outgassing. Not too many pads have that issue these days, so I wouldn't worry about it. Last few times I've bought rotors, I just went with OEM from Pelican. I run PFC '06 pads at the track and have been really happy with them. One of the really nice things about them is that they work well enough when cold that you can drive them on the street. This lets me swap brakes at home at my leisure instead of being forced to do it at the track. There are plenty of other good options, too. If you're a complete novice at the track, you won't even need a full track pad yet. A good street pad will do fine for your first few times (just be sure to do a brake fluid flush with a good synthetic fluid)
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Feb 18, 2011 00:54
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Deceptor101 posted:Alright, thanks for that info on slotted. They'll just be a waste of money for me really. As far as blanks go, I can get brembo blanks off tirerack for just slightly more than the oem blanks off pelican. How much braking performance would I be losing from bimmerbrakes.com's blanks. Their prices are $70/pair vs $70-80/each. It's pretty much just brand to know if the blank has the right metal properties eh? If the metallurgy on the cheap rotors isn't right they'll either wear down fast or develop cracks with the extreme thermal cycling at the track. Either way, as long as you keep an eye on them you'll be ok. For significant savings it might be worth a shot. I would not recommend running the PFC 06 as a street pad. While they will stop the car, they are abrasive as gently caress when cold and will chew up your rotors. I have no experience with the hawk hps, I've heard they're a good pad. My preferred street pad is Axxis Ultimates and really the OEM Jurid/Texar are just fine, too.
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Feb 18, 2011 07:18
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Das Volk posted:I was also interested to note that the service interval has been dropped from 15000 miles to 12000 miles. Is BMW wising up to the fact that it's too long/far between oil changes, and that spark plugs don't actually last 100k? As wallaka pointed out, the service interval is adapted to your fuel consumption. Regardless, I hope you are changing the oil more frequently than that, especially if you are tracking the car. 12-15K is too long of an interval for an M engine, even with the TWS oil of the gods. I'm not up on E9x as much as E36 & E46, but I'd trust the same names: Bilstein, TC Kline, Ground Control, Vorschlag.
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Apr 8, 2011 05:41
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Das Volk posted:I do change the oil an extra time between services, and it's a rare day that I don't exceed 100 mph at least once, so I can understand the change. I did a bunch of reading on it and I've come away with the knowledge that lowering the car more than 10mm will mess up the handling without drastically altering other components. I think my first stop will be to dial in the max negative camber possible (1.4deg stock) and go from there. Given the many inherent handling benefits of lowering the car, I'm surprised such relatively small drops have an overall negative effect. Then again, they did change up the suspension design pretty significantly for the E9x. Looks like TMS is selling camber plates and camber bushings, maybe installing those on an otherwise stock suspension is decent bang for your buck. If you're optimizing handling for the track and don't care about street tire wear, you will probably want more than 1.4 degrees of camber VibrioCholera posted:I can do a lot of car maitenance but never changed plugs in my E46 M3. Difficult? It's not really any harder than the E30/36, you just need to remove a few bits that are in the way. Platinum plugs are spec'ed for this engine, I would not use copper. You want NGK DCPR8EKP. I would suspect O2 sensors or MAF if you're getting lovely mileage and you're sure it's not just your lead foot. An OBDII scan might reveal some codes.
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Apr 9, 2011 02:42
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With OEM systems, you aren't paying for the navigation, you're paying for the vehicle integration and durability (the electronics that go in to cars are engineered to a much higher reliability standard than anything going into consumer electronics)
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Apr 14, 2011 05:07
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wolrah posted:I'm sure there are plenty of lovely aftermarket devices, I'm not arguing that there aren't, but you can't claim OEM is more expensive due to it being better made. I'm not saying there aren't lovely OEM devices, particularly on the software side, but yes, pretty much all of the OEM hardware is better made. They're buying high-reliability (low defect rate), extended temperature range parts and using more rigorous design and test processes. This may not be readily apparent to any particular end users because one results in a devices that work for 10K power-on hours with 100 defective parts per million coming off the assembly line and the other works for 100K POH with <1 DPPM.
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Apr 14, 2011 13:59
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gigButt posted:I have an interesting problem with my 98' 328is. Coolant is disappearing I trust you're aware the E36 is notorious for its weak and trouble prone cooling system. How long ago was your last cooling system overhaul? If there were no coolant at all in the car, it would indeed overheat and seize in short order. The tank you see on the radiator, however does not represent to level of of coolant in the total system. You can have an empty tank and still have a full engine block & radiator. This is probably your situation if you aren't overheating. Nonetheless, you need to find and fix this issue before it becomes catastrophic. First off, refill the system before you do run it too low. Since you've run the tank dry and the E36 does not have a self-bleeding system, you should bleed it, too, to ensure there is no air in the system. Inspect the tank, radiator, hoses, thermostat housing, and water pump for signs of leaking coolant. It's going somewhere. If you can't see the leak, put UV dye in the coolant and look for it with a black light. If you still can't find it, suspect the head gasket.
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May 20, 2011 13:15
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gigButt posted:I was worried about the head gasket since I cant see any leaks. Wouldn't the car run different and a little steam mix in with the exhaust? Everything is running strong. If the leak is slow enough, you probably wouldn't notice any difference in how it runs, save for a puff of white smoke at startup out the tailpipe perhaps. Also, check your oil and make sure the coolant is not ending up there.
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May 21, 2011 01:59
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gigButt posted:Ill check the oil. Coolant would make it a little milky, correct? Yep.
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May 21, 2011 16:10
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Shadowhand00 posted:If only front toe is adjustable, On an E46, toe and camber are adjustable front and rear, though the front camber adjustment range is extremely limited.
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May 25, 2011 14:04
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Shadowhand00 posted:Rogue Engineering or AST (but I can't find AST). Anyone have any recs or experience installing these? I have the Rogue FCABs on my M3, and did the install myself. Installing the lollipop inserts was a piece of cake with a shop press, but getting the full bushing back on the control arm was a real pain in the rear end compared to when I helped a buddy replace his with OE style bushings. (To be fair to rogue they do point out in the instructions that it would be difficult to do on jack stands). Basically I couldn't get enough force behind the deadblow hammer to get the drat bushing to go on. It would either just bounce back off the control arm or slowly push the insert up the arm too far without seating the lollipop over it correctly. I eventually gave up on hammering them on and used a giant C clamp with much better results. I'm quite happy with them now that they're on the car.
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May 31, 2011 19:39
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wallaka posted:My opinion is, if your front tires aren't old, why replace them if they don't need it? You can check the date code on the sidewall to see exactly how old they are if you're worried about it. Anything older than 5-6 years old would be a good candidate for replacement. This. My M3 disproportionately eats rear tires on the street and fronts on the track. If I bought 4 tires every time I needed 2, tirerack would hold a 2nd mortgage on my house. Always replace in pairs and do not mix performance types (no high-performance summer tires on one axle and touring all-seasons on the other) and you'll be fine.
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Jun 16, 2011 14:16
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Bank posted:
Those are the bolts for the caliper bracket. You can remove the caliper first by prying off the slide pin guide dust caps (the cap on the rubber thing in the lower left of your picture) and using a 7mm hex allen key to unscrew the caliper slide pins inside. Once you have the caliper off the bracket, it will no longer be in the way of the bracket bolts, and you can use your normal ratchet. I would still recommend getting a 16mm ratcheting box wrench to fill the gap in your set. It's handy.
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Jun 19, 2011 20:01
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