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Good to see a BMW thread pop up. I'll have to get a picture of the two E30's, the E36 and the R1150RT this weekend if it warms up a bit. Dad has the 99 E36 M3 and the 07 (I think) R1150. My brother has a 88 325 that he bought from me. I have a 87 325is which is stripped out for track use.
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Mar 28, 2008 14:08
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Spent today removing the rear subframe and front suspension on my E30 track rat. Wow what a pain in the rear end. Will be nice to have it done though. Poly subframe mounts, new trailing arm bushings combined with H&R race springs, Billy sports and adjustable camber/caster plates (front) should really wake the car up.
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Jul 7, 2008 02:11
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Jorsh posted:I did a pull from 3rd gear today and my clutch started slipping around 5500, looks like I have new clutch in my future! Oh boy this will be an adventure. I replaced my transmission two weeks ago and if I can give you one tip it would be to go buy the longest ratchet extension you can get your hands on. I picked up 3.5 feet worth of extensions and I was able to do the swap in under 5 hours, this was my first transmission swap. Also get the car on jack stands or a lift if possible and make sure you get it high enough to slide the transmission out without hitting the bottom of the car...I learned that the hard way.
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Sep 15, 2008 19:54
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multiprotocol posted:Ok, question time. Does anyone have any suggestions as to the best way to remove the lovely foam insulation leftover on the roof of an E30 when you pull out the headliner? Secondarily, what is the consensus on permanently shutting the sunroof? Welding or just riveting/epoxying something in place? This car will be track-duty only, and occasional ventures onto the autocross course. I used a heat gun to make removing the foam easier. Had it all off pretty quickly then used goo gone to remove any residue. For the sunroof I think most people are just welding it, that is what I plan to do. I can't find the thread on E30Tech but I think they shaved as much weight off of the sunroof plate as possible then added some metal stock around the edges to center it and add some rigidity then welding it in there.
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Sep 17, 2008 18:33
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multiprotocol posted:Time to hit Harbor Freight for a heat gun that will likely leave me with 2nd degree burns while using it. If you find that thread, post it in here. I seem to recall having seen something on there, but I can't find it either. Or park it outside in the sun with the windows up on a hot day...poor mans heat gun  As for the power steering I pulled the pump and looped the lines, haven't had any issues.
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Sep 18, 2008 16:16
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Chriskory posted:Pictures! Soo jealous. I looked for a non-sunroof 318is for 6 months and couldn't find one near me for a price I could afford. You will have a lot of fun with that car.
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Oct 3, 2008 13:53
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We just brought home another BMW to add to our stable. My youngest brother and mom will share the car once he gets his license. We spotted a 318ti parked behind the shop when we dropped the VW TDI off to have the timing belt swapped. Asked the owner about it and he gave us the guys number. Turns out it had a plugged cat and he didn't feel like getting it fixed so he was just storing it there. We brought it home for $900, its a 1997 black on black but sadly an automatic. It needs a new cat/glasspack and the brakes need some attention as well as a good cleaning. With the addition of this one our fleet is: 2004 R1150RT, 1998 M3, 1997 318ti, 1988 325is (track car) and a 1987 325.
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Oct 17, 2008 22:48
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CornHolio posted:wait... its listed as 1 of 79 built in 79, but the placard on the car says it is from Jan 1984, and according to its VIN it has a production date of June 1980. I think this is one of those cars that was built as a street car then converted to one of the ProCar options. "Some of the 456 road cars were later converted to replicas of the ProCar machines, including one that has popped up on eBay this week" - http://www.autoblog.com/2008/10/20/ebay-find-of-the-day-1979-bmw-m1-wow/
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Oct 20, 2008 19:28
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Guinness posted:Rough roads are going to be hard on any car's suspension. A bit moreso on super stiff set ups, but as long as you try not to hit any huge potholes I wouldn't worry about it too much. I know it feels like you're abusing the thing, but it's just the nature of being able to feel every little bump. Every car's suspension has to deal with it, but the softer ones just make it less obvious. Careful with the E36 M3 wheels, they are supposedly easy to bend on potholes and really rough roads. We haven't had any issues but that is one of the things some of the auto mags complained about.
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Oct 26, 2008 03:13
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TractionControl posted:I just got invited to go to my first track day at Mid-America near Omaha, NE in my E30. You will have a blast with the E30 on the track. Flush the brake fluid, double/triple check your pads and rotors, change oil, check qheel torques, start with even tire pressures (I usually go 36/36 cold) and go there with an open mind. Have Fun
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Nov 5, 2008 00:44
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ad infinitum posted:99 M Roadster and track days Your lucky, the club up here wouldn't let me run a miata with a welded on hard top, full cage, seats and 5 point harnesses. To answer your question though look at other clubs in the area, BMW club tends to not like convertibles on the track. Some of the other manufacturer clubs are ok with them as are some of the other groups that host HPDE events.
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Jan 6, 2009 17:56
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Pissingintowind posted:Kosei K1 and Staggered I run Kosei K1's as track tires. I bought a used pair from a guy that ran them in spec E30 for two seasons. They are a bit dinged up, have rub marks but were cheap, light and hold up fine. I haven't heard of anyone having issues with the K1's failing, you should be fine. Car manufacturers stagger tires on cars to make them "safer", usually with wider in the rear which reduces oversteer. We went with one size all around on the M3 and it made it more fun on the track and allows us to rotate the tires. I would recommend getting away from staggered.
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Feb 16, 2009 22:10
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Last weekend I flew out to San Francisco, CA on the 8th to pick up a E21 and drive it to WI then TN.  Clean Interior even with 150k+ miles  Bonneville Salt Flats.  Stuck in Nebraska...we hit a bit of snow  Had to leave the car in WI due to a faulty ignition. Replacement on the way then will drive or ship it to Knoxville. Debating doing a combination trip report, project thread. Despite driving at about 35 mph for 8 hours in the snow and all sorts of ignition issues it was a fun trip. My Dad met me at the airport, was originally his car.
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Oct 17, 2009 21:57
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We decided to make today BMW Day and collected all the 3's in the driveway for some group shots. The E21 was purchased (second owner) in 1979. He sold it in 1987 then purchased it back in 1998 and did a partial restoration. I drove it a bit between then and when he sold it to my cousin in 2003. My dad and I flew to California October 8th where I bought the car and we drove it back to WI through a blizzard and a failing ignition switch. From Left to Right: 1997 E36 318ti (youngest brothers), 1988 E30 325is (my track rat), 1977 E21 320i (my nice car), 1987 E30 325 (other brothers), 1999 E36 M3 (dad's track car). And Dad's new solar setup in the background...was putting out 2300 watts most of the time we were taking photos. We considered putting the R1150RT in front but didn't.    We plan to repeat this in 10 years. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Nov 9, 2009 |
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Nov 9, 2009 00:43
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Keyser S0ze posted:Very worthy of a Roundel or Bimmer magazine entry if not already there. We sent it in to Roundel with hopes of it making the next issue.
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Nov 15, 2009 22:06
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After spending two weeks in WI for training and having the 320i kill on me twice I decided it would be a good idea to drive it back to TN instead of flying down. The car ran great and made the trip with no issues. While in WI I replaced the ignition switch which we diagnosed on the road trip back from CA as bad. Then replaced the coil when it suddenly died on the way back from work two weeks ago. After it died coming into work Thursday we started to tear into the electrical system and found the distributor gap wasn't adjusted right so it was never breaking contact. Adjusted this and the car suddenly ran good, idled good and gave me enough confidence to drive it 1000 miles. Now that I have it running reliably it needs a few things before I will be happy with it. First is a 5-speed transmission, the current 4-speed is great but 4000 rpm on the interstate is kind of a pain in the rear end. I haven't started looking at what is compatible yet but was wondering if a E30 5-speed would match up. The second thing it needs is suspension. It has one or more blown shocks and is scary to drive over large bumps. Need to decide how sporty/aggressive of a setup I want then see what is available. Will hopefully have the side effect of lowering the car as well because it sits really high and looks kind of odd.
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Nov 21, 2009 18:50
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Am having some issues with the E21 that seem to be getting worse as it gets colder. A month or so ago while driving home the temp gauge got towards the hot end, was able to keep it under 3/4 by idling at 2.5-3k at lights (no electric fan). After it cooled down I checked the cooland level and it was low so I topped it off and the problem went away. Last week driving into work it did the same thing and was again low on coolant. I wasn't sure when/where I was loosing coolant until I walked out the other day and there was a huge puddle under the car. Looks like it is coming out while the car is parked but not right away because I hadn't noticed it before. The car has no overflow tank so once it leaks once it just gets worse and worse until it needs a refil. I'm trying to find an overflow tank that will work as well as some place to mount it. Want to flush the system this weekend and trying to decide which parts I should look at replacing in the coolant system. Will try to get under the car tonight and make sure it isn't leaking from somewhere other than the overflow tube. Trying to figure out what parts from http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2933&mospid=47175&btnr=11_0644&hg=11&fg=35 I should order. Thinking the issue is related to either #7 (Temp Switch) or #8 (Thermostat). Haven't dealt with cooling issues on cars before so kind of just going by what I've read. Leaning towards the Thermostat because while it does eventually warm up it usually doesn't really blow hot air, just slightly warm air. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Jan 11, 2010 |
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Jan 11, 2010 15:45
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Das Volk posted:I'm not keen on re-starting Das Volk's Home for Abused German Cars again but I may make an exception for this one if the price is right. Has the usual "idiot owner" problems, has been sitting for ages and ages, but has a straight body, mostly is complete and I think could be a good restoration candidate. The owner claims that the car is mechanically sound, needs a shift linkage and some cosmetic work but otherwise driveable. What should I offer the guy? It's got 115k on the clock and has been sitting there for a very long time, I'm thinking a year or more, but again for the right money I would like to go all Wheeler Dealers on this and bring this modern classic back from the brink. Offer 10, if you can get it for under 15 you're doing ok. 115k isn't muck for miles but that is a lot of little things it needs and NLA parts can be a bitch. Would be good to see a neglected M3 get cleaned up and back on the road. A clean shell and functional S14 is worth 7-10, anything beyond that is a bonus. Check out this listing as kind of a reference - http://www.s14.net/forums/showthread.php?59935-FS-4-87-DS-on-black-leather I have an unlimited autocheck for this month, PM me the VIN and your email if you want it run. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Jun 15, 2013 |
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Jun 15, 2013 05:28
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Love that color, looks like he did a hell of a job. I need to post pictures of my recently detailed M3 and watch AI freak out again but 
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Jun 24, 2013 21:48
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For BMW shopping how on bmwcca and check out the classified section - http://www.bmwcca.org/classifieds/listings.php From what I've seen and looked at in person most of the cars listed on there are well maintained and accurately represented.
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Jun 25, 2013 00:46
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Everyone posted:CDV chat Maybe this explains why I thought the E92 I played with had one of the worst clutches I'd driven. WTF BMW after years of honestly pretty great transmissions and clutch feel you go to some fancy poo poo? Transmission in the E30 M3 is so perfect...slightly notchy, not short throw but pretty ideal, very positive engagement, smooth as hell and a great clutch. And time to go for a drive.
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Jun 28, 2013 21:54
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Washed the M3 and took it for a drive to get some photos for me, post your ride thread and insurance. My faith in humanity and patience was tested way too much for a simple task on a nice day. Finish taking shots as a E46 M3 rolls in. Owner wanders over and asks me why I felt the need to ruin a nice looking E30 with a "stupid body kit and wing". Even after showing her the manual and supplemental M owners handbook she wouldn't believe it was built that way. According to her "and everyone who knows anything about BMW's the E36 was the first generation." WTF she cares about the cars enough to know the chassis codes but had never heard of a E30 M3? On the way home a Z4M owner almost caused an accident doing a double take, trying to get a photo, giving me a thumbs up and trying to point out the car to his wife. I turned around, caught up and we talked BMW's for a bit. Will laugh if the photos of the cars next to each other pop up on here but I doubt it. Car rolled over 80k today, back in the garage with 80013 miles.
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Jul 13, 2013 19:17
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Exactly how the hell is this "ruined" and just realized the camera wasn't set to max resolution...
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Jul 13, 2013 21:40
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Wombot posted:I'm in the middle of yuppie tech worker central, so it's going to be more expensive, unfortunately. Fly-n-drive, I did for the E30 and a couple others that were hard to find or overpriced in my area. You're already doing PPI's so do a PPI at a shop near the car then fly out and drive it back. I always book a round trip ticket anyways though, no pressure and usually about the same price.
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Jul 16, 2013 21:09
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omgitstheinternet posted:Well, I drove this home today: You made the right choice, love those goofy looking little things. First one I drove was a students car at a HPDE and was really impressed with how the car felt overall, the power...the sound 
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Jul 19, 2013 14:15
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Popete posted:Yeah sorry about that I was referring to both e36/e46 M3s. Do it, I did a fly-n-drive for the E30 M3 and it was great. Nothing like 800 miles in a 25 year old car to find all the little buzzes and rattles. Only things that sucked were no cruise control or working cigarette lighter to power phone/gps...and the loose shifter that buzzed the whole loving drive. edit: poo poo just remembered my first basketcase E30. Talked a roommate into driving to West Virgina (from west-central WI) with me to drive it back, around 1000 miles. Did a timing belt the weekend after getting it home and realized the belt was beyond shot and really shouldn't have made the trip. No PPI, barely had enough money to get back to WI. Or the E21. Flew to CA, drove it to WI then TN with blizzards thrown in for fun. Things that failed on the trip: ignition, coil, heater, battery and I'm sure more I'm forgetting. TLDR: fly-n-drive is awesome NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Jul 26, 2013 |
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Jul 26, 2013 17:01
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lostleaf posted:For those who bought cars long distance, how do you negotiate sight unseen? How do you get a PPI prior to picking up the car? I hoped on google maps and started searching for bmw dealerships and specialty shops. Found one and called them up, explained the situation and they told me to have the seller call them. Seller brought it over then picked it up after the inspection. I just made to sure to tell the guy doing the inspection to take a lot of pictures and take his time, ended up taking around 3 hours. I didn't do any price negotiation until I got there but I did mention things the inspection found that I didn't like so they were aware I was going to negotiate. Had a cashier's check for ~90% then cash for the remaining to negotiate with. Got there, they had dropped the price 1k after the inspection and negotiated from there. Really it went smooth as hell. I would recommend getting a dealer plate or something if possible...I spent 2+ hours in the CT DMV getting a transit plate.
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Jul 27, 2013 01:33
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Even with worn out tires the traction control stuff tends to keep the car pretty settled. One thing you might check is to see if it has an aftermarket chip or something interfering with the TCS. We test drove a E36 M3 in Chicago ~10 years ago and almost spun it going around a sandy corner from a standstill. We messed with the TCS a bit but could never get it to kick in, we mentioned it to the dealer who pretty much said "Oh that's an issue with this car, we're not sure why."
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Jul 27, 2013 16:26
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Popete posted:I've been reading up a bit on having the e36 M3 lowered seems the two options are lower sport springs or getting coilovers. People seem to think the Eibach pro-kit spring set is the way to go and will lower the car ~1 inch and the kit is only $250. I have never attempted something like installing springs but I'm not completely mechanically stupid and I'm thinking about attempting this. How difficult would this be? Or should I just say screw it and pay my mechanic to do it? Why are you lowering it? Lowering it for track days, autocross, etc is different than lowering for cosmetics. The process is the same but the springs/shocks are very different. As for as installing springs it's easy assuming you don't have a poo poo load of rust or something to deal with. Rear is as easy as supporting the car on jack stands, remove the lower shock bolt to let the control arm droop then swap the spring. Front you undo the top bolts for the strut, pull it out then remove the top hat to slide out the spring. Like this but rent a spring compressor...don't use loving zip-ties - http://syclone.motocrew.com/E36/suspension.htm
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Jul 27, 2013 20:57
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I'm not a fan of Bavauto either, mainly long shipping times on stuff that was marked as in stocks and ready to ship then takes 2+ weeks. I generally get everything through Pelican Parts and their customer service is pretty awesome. If anyone is placing Pelican orders I have coupons for $100 and $200 orders and a 15% off one as well, PM me.
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Aug 1, 2013 15:54
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rscott posted:Interesting, but if your temperature gauge is reading that high in an E30, you're pretty much already hosed, as I am finding out right now! Kenny Rogers posted:*E36 Fan Delete Mod Trip Report* I did the same on my old E30 and had no issues with overheating. As far as a non-useless temp gauge for E30's just pick up an aftermarket one and wire it in, did this on the couple I've had and the chump...it's the only way to go if you really care about temps. Unrealated but still BMW chat I'm trying to figure out how to store/stack the 320i and the M3 with my 9'6" ceilings. Looks like I should be able to do it with about 5.75" to spare using a 2-post lift and some DIY wheel adapters. Now to start lift shopping. when I'm home sick with nothing to do I start finding ways to spend money...it's bad NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Aug 1, 2013 |
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Aug 1, 2013 19:57
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Confused_Donkey posted:Rare shot I had of the E30 Collection lined up, Posted it in the Wagon thread but figured it belonged in here. I want that wagon. Nice collection
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Aug 2, 2013 22:21
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Even with the incorrect offset they may fit fine. Put one on the car and spin it by hand to make sure it rotates and doesn't rub anything. As long as it isn't rubbing it doesn't really matter, if it is then look at spacers. Also make sure in the front you still have normal turning capability without hitting something.
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Aug 9, 2013 18:09
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BrokenKnucklez posted:They were never really intended on being a cheap car to begin with. BMW M products will always hold better value over the long term vs their standard counterparts. If that thing checks out that seems like a hell of a deal. I haven't been following E36 prices but that seems cheap for what looks like a pretty clean example.
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Aug 13, 2013 23:43
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TP Racing posted:I bought my friends E30 320i a couple of months ago, and it`s finally on the road! I promptly fitted Spax coilovers, and some 4x100->4x114.3 adapters so I could put my 7.5/8x15 SSR MK2`s on. Result: Haven't seen on in that color before, I like it. Looks like a nice clean car and should be fun with the coil overs. Read 320i and got really excited then remembered it was the 320iS that got the S14
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Aug 16, 2013 21:58
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GrAviTy84 posted:Anyone have a good mechanic in Glendale, CA for a PPI? Depends how thorough they are for that $170, largely depends on shop rates and how long they spend on it. In the overall scheme of things $170 isn't poo poo if you're paying 15k or whatever for a car and is worth it for the peace of mind. I've paid as low as $50 for a quick PPI to $300 for a very thorough one.
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Aug 21, 2013 19:21
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GrAviTy84 posted:PPI all day forever. A lot of times the PPI finds nothing but times when something like that is found it is worth every penny. Good to hear you went with the PPI and didn't buy the car, sorry you're back on the search. Don't feel too bad, took me 5 PPI's and three flights to find my car.
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Aug 23, 2013 22:44
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Stardotstar posted:Well, I finally pulled the trigger on some Koni FSDs for my wagon a few days ago  new suspension - Bilstein Sports, H&R Sports and ST Sway bars on the way for the E21. Once I drop the subframes, blast and repaint them I'll order poly bushings and get the car back on the road.
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Aug 28, 2013 18:31
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Stardotstar posted:How much did that suspension refresh run you, out of curiosity? Not sure yet, haven't dropped the subframes yet so I may get some surprises. I'm guessing it will be right around 1-1.2k by the time everything is back together. Also tossing in a 5-speed and LSD...maybe engine work as well since I noticed a giant puddle of oil under the car the other day.
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Aug 29, 2013 00:19
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Crustashio posted:Launched at 3000rpm on rcomps, CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK. Have to try and get the old bolt removed before lapping on monday. Sounds familiar. Our driveshaft support bearing went out on the ChumpCar. Go into corner everything is fine, accelerate out Clunk Clunk Clunk...gently caress. One lap from the checker flag.
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Aug 29, 2013 12:53
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