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for $150 you can get the DICE module and just plug in your Ipod and have full display support and be able to use the steering wheel controls. Check Bimmerfest forums, etc..... nice freaking ZHP! great car, hopefully you got a great deal too. Zeinin posted:
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May 19, 2009 01:07
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find an independent shop and have a PPI (pre purchase inspection) done and Bimmerfest.com E46 forum is your new friend....go check the wiki first. STAT1C_X posted:Car noob here, looking at a 2000 323i I found on Craigslist (and a '99 323is). Googling has revealed some individuals saying that many of the '99-'00 3-series models suffered from transmission and chassis issues, often around 100k miles. Incidentally, said car has 104,000.
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May 19, 2009 01:40
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the ideal way to bleed the brakes are to have all 4 wheels off and bleeder screws open and dripping into bottles...pour the fluid in, pump brakes, wait for bubbles to stop at the bleeder lines and you are set I have also done it one wheel at a time, pump the pedal, cap line, move on to next one. Keep fluid in the reservoir. You can also bleed the clutch line too since it's on the same system. While you are down there rip out the CDV valve, which blows. Pissingintowind posted:Well, I tried again with the remainder of my fluid. It was pretty close, but I didn't run out. The mushy pedal is much better now, but not quite as good as I want it to be. I'm going to run this fluid until the pads are broken in (about 500 miles), and then I'll perform a full flush with Super Blue (which I still cannot find locally).
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May 19, 2009 01:43
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can you get a list of everything that BMW and the mechanic has replaced? EVERY single rubber and plastic part will be failing soon, if not already. This includes all the engine rubber and plastic poo poo: DISA, CCV, air intake elbows, expansion tank, water temp sensors, hoses as well as the cv boots, rear trailing arm bushings, front control arm bushings, transmission (shift) bushings, the tray under the windshield, rubber moldings and seals. DON'T WAIT to replace the expansion tank/radiator. Do poo poo pro-actively and you will never grenade your engine. Bimmerfest.com has great forums specialized for all this poo poo and realoem.com has all the parts and schematics for part # searching. This is all stuff that you can DIY FTMP, cept the RTAB's.....which are a bitch to get off and you need an alignment afterwards. It would be nice if he had a record of replacing this stuff, if not.....start loading up on the parts. Good luck! Deceptor101 posted:Today I test drove a 1999 e46 328i, 4-door 5-speed with 141,000. I've been looking for a 328 with 4 doors and a stick for quite some time now (not in black) and they've been pretty hard to find. This guy is the first owner and has taken immaculate care of it. Since it was off warranty he's taken it to the same mechanic (a BMW specialist) and had anything that even remotely needed fixing done. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 02:05 on May 31, 2009 |
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May 31, 2009 02:02
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Synapse23 posted:I'm seriously considering buying a 2004 325i. They're asking 14k for it and it has 60,000 miles. The car note would basically end up costing me the same as my current vehicle, but would extend the loan 3 more years than the Blazer's. My question is how afraid should I be of maintenance? I drive maybe 6,000 miles a year, but I really don't want to spend a thousand bucks a year or more on maintenance/repair costs alone...advice from some experts? Is this a CPO or a private party sale? I would almost steer you to a comparable 330 instead at that price and of course a 5 speed. A 6 speed ZHP would be the ideal option but will cost over $17k in most cases. Failures on this car will involve mostly the plastic and rubber poo poo that fails after 5 years or so, all common parts and most pretty easy to moderate DIY's. Rubber front control arm bushings and ball joints, sway bar end links, rear trailing arm bushings, radiator expansion tank, DISA valve, crankcase ventilation parts, power steering hoses, radiator hoses, water pump/thermo.......etc etc. Also brakes on these cars are very easy to DIY.
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Jun 19, 2009 18:45
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BossTweed posted:Do you guys think these wheels are real OEM rims or a reproduction/copy? Do you know any tricks for finding out? If they are OEM, they are lightweight forged rims. the //M stamp doesn't really mean much anymore, there are tons of replica CSL/M3 rims out there now with M stamps. If the guy responds to you definitely find out what kind of tires those are as they look drat near new. Also you may want to find out if you can get the rims inspected somewhere as the seller could have curbed them and wobbled one or two of them.
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Jun 19, 2009 18:51
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buzzsaw.gif posted:
I think there is a sweet spot with the 2006 330's, they only made them for a year and they have the upgraded 255HP engine and they are literally $8-$10k cheaper than a 2007 335. I know there are some teething probs with a first year model but if yer willing to replace funky electronic parts, etc...here and there with newer versions you will have a great car for years. Good deal!
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Jun 23, 2009 17:31
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Sterndotstern posted:Do not superglue the knob. There are better ways. A few I have used successfully in the past: The shifter that came on your car is an aftermarket one and it prob doesn't fit right anymore. It might be easier to go buy a newer lower profile one, either a used one if on a budget or a new one. I have the "weighted" lower profile ZHP one on my E46 and it's great. Even if you got a regular OEM styled one it would be a vast improvement and would stay on there. Many folks have extra OEM shifters lying around, I know I have two.....a black leather one and the original wood grain one, others will too - you just need to scour places like Bimmerfest, Bimmerforums etc. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Jun 23, 2009 |
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Jun 23, 2009 17:38
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Definitely check out the bimmerfest, bimmerforums posts for retro HID information. You may be better off just spending $140 on some of the new aftermarket Angel Eyes by EAS or Umnitza if all you are doing is looking to add some bling to the headlights. I have factory installed Xenon's in my 330 and like the look and think they work great but don't forget these things costs over $1k to replace if they fail.
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Jun 28, 2009 20:28
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Carbon Deity posted:I cleaned the hell out of the M3 yesterday and grabbed some shots that I just have to share with you guys. Holy crap, it's gorgeous and it looks brand new. Nice job
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Jul 17, 2009 21:51
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VacaGrande posted:Most BMWs I've ever seen including the X5s have noticeable negative camber, it's just how they are. They pretty much have some negative rear camber built in.
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Jul 17, 2009 21:52
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Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jul 17, 2009 |
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Jul 17, 2009 21:54
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DevCore posted:
1. Dented Rim 2. Worn Front Control Arm Bushings/Ball/Joints/Tie Rods Would be the top 2 culprits for what you describe, in my experience. Maybe swap the wheels around and see if it helps to test #1 but since you say it's primarily during braking check #2 out first. pistophchristoph posted:Guys I'm looking at this... Go search for E46's with "NATURAL BROWN" interior, I believe that's what it is. It's basically an option for black everything except the seats, which are a darker brown than the fugly stock tan color. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Jul 17, 2009 |
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Jul 17, 2009 21:59
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MetaJew posted:Couldn't it also be a sign of warped rotors, or is that less likely? extremely less likely, check all the rubber suspension bits up front or have it done at an indy shop. Bimrs.org can find you one.
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Jul 17, 2009 22:15
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I have blacked out my entire car but for some reason I still like the chrome bling grill......It looks really good on some cars though.
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Jul 28, 2009 20:47
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pkx posted:
I would pay tons of money to watch the Porcubimmer at an autocross!  Bahamutsrage posted:What wheels are those, they look fantastic! they are 18" O.Z. Ultraleggera's, prob just make them track stuff only soon and get some more modest CSL replica wheels instead, but still black or dark grey (I hate cleaning them)
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Jul 29, 2009 20:53
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peterjmatt posted:Periodic lubing is definitely a good idea on the older scissor regulators, but it's not going to help on the newer cable driven ones. They break due to the plastic bits getting brittle. I believe there is a "Zip tie" fix out there that folks are doing (even preemptively) on their E46's. I plan on doing that when I hear the next one go, since I'm past my warranty now.
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Aug 12, 2009 19:16
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At first sight, I despised the E65 7 series with the bangle butt and Dame Edna's,the E60 5er with the over-eyebrows and dumb bangle butt, the 6er with the retarded over-eyebrows Dame Edna's and bangle butt trunk.....and I still pretty much do and think they are FUGG. However, being that a ton of other manufacturers followed BMW down the path of ugliness they are a bit less ghastly to look at now. However I do give them credit for fixing (or at least smoothing) out all the 7 series fugglery by re-doing the rear trunk, tail lights etc for the 2008+ models. Additionally, the new 5 and 7 Hooeydonker's are going to be bloated pigs with Lexus ES300 tail-lights and huge kidney grills. They are sort of back to the BMW style of having the 3-5-7 just being slightly larger versions of themselves as you move up the food chain, like in the 80's-90's. I am okay with the 2006+ 3 series and its tweaks. Of course the coupe is much much better looking but I could live with a E92 M3 Sedan when they get below $40k on the secondary market. edit: I remember back in the E30 to E36 days, the enthusiasts were really pissed as it was a very drastic change for the cars. By the time the E46 came around, the E36 people were pissed. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Aug 12, 2009 |
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Aug 12, 2009 20:24
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NitroSpazzz posted:We decided to make today BMW Day and collected all the 3's in the driveway for some group shots. Very worthy of a Roundel or Bimmer magazine entry if not already there. SPORK08 posted:In the not so distant future I plan to replace my trusty beat to poo poo 95 civic with an E39 540 wagon. I don't want to spend more than 10k. An E39 is only an inch or two more roomy inside than an E46, have very few of them available, and have less sources for replacement parts, and the parts will most likely, cost more. I am guessing that the V8 is the real draw here for you. It also carries with it significantly more potential repair costs as well along with I am guessing around 15MPG. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Nov 12, 2009 |
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Nov 12, 2009 23:29
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flublandDrussiavelt posted:since the e46 and e39 share a lot of parts and share engines, they cost the exact same to maintain (if the engines are both m52/54) and the availability of the parts is exactly the same also. You're not going to find either in the junkyard yet and spares will cost the same for either at a dealer or parts store. Undoubtedly that is true for a 325/525 328/528 engine parts. I am going based on the posts I see over at Bimmerfest - I see posts suggesting that the V8 seems to have more maintenance and labor costs involved. In other "availability" terms there are a shitload more E46 325iT's for sale out there than 525/540/528iT's, especially 540's - so the chances of getting the color/transmission/etc that you want will be quite a bit higher with an E46 . Would you recommend a 540iT over a well sorted 525iT or even an older 528iT given the OP's budget concerns?
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Nov 13, 2009 01:14
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wolrah posted:Really? I was thinking my next step up would be an E39, either a M5 if I can afford it or a 530i if I can't, post-facelift. Obviously the M5 would be a notable difference from my 325i, but would the lower model? E46/4: Interior Front Head Room: 38.4 in. Front Shoulder Room: 54.4 in. Rear Head Room: 37.5 in. Rear Shoulder Room: 54.2 in. Front Leg Room: 41.4 in. Rear Leg Room: 34.6 in. Luggage Capacity: 10.7 cu. ft. Maximum Seating: 5 so yeah, it IS bigger, but we're talking fractions of inches. I'd get the E39. E39: Interior Front Head Room: 38.7 in. Front Shoulder Room: 56.8 in. Rear Head Room: 37.8 in. Rear Shoulder Room: 55.9 in. Front Leg Room: 41.7 in. Rear Leg Room: 34.2 in. Luggage Capacity: 11.1 cu. ft. Maximum Seating: 5 http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=228971&highlight=E39
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Nov 13, 2009 18:17
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CornHolio posted:Following up on my loose steering, bimmerforums had me look at the flex disc in the steering column. I assume this is a late model E36 M3? I proactively replaced my "STEERING COUPLER" in my 02 330 a few months ago as part of my plan to replace all the rubber/plastic poo poo in the car - as I get to it and hopefully before it fails (next is the Oil separator lines). There is no question yours is toasted at this point. I just had my shop do it since I was having them do the rear o2 sensors anyway but I don't think it's too major of a DIY. You need to mark the exact spot on the steering piece where it came off though so the replacement lines up to the same exact spot.
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Dec 1, 2009 22:18
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CornHolio posted:328i. I don't think there's anything drastically different in the steering between the two, though. I'd say get it replaced within a few months, sooner the better. I bet your steering feels more responsive after as well.
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Dec 1, 2009 22:46
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I'll add that the CSL reps look drat good on the E46 and even the E90-E92's. I recently put on the gunmetal grey ones, they are pretty reasonably priced at under $200 each. I have found a bit of decreased performance compared to the 18 lb O.Z. Ultraleggera's I had on the car before since the CSL reps are 24 lbs each. I'll be keeping the O.Z.'s for track wheels.  
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Dec 8, 2009 19:34
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Nice. Those are the 18's, right? I think they might be a little too big. I wonder if I can find some staggered 17's. Those are 18"s 235/255 staggered, no rubbing. I think the offset is 45? From Euro Auto Source site: Available Size: 8.5" +40mm Gunmetal 9.5" +45mm Gunmetal Weight: Wheel: 24.0lbs Front Wheel: 24.5lbs Rear I think the style looks good on E90's. I did get slight rubbing with the 40 offset O.Z.'s rims on the 18/255 rears. But only on pretty extreme dips. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Dec 8, 2009 |
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Dec 8, 2009 23:30
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Id4ever posted:
I would suggest checking out the E39 Forums on Bimmerfest or Bimmerforums and searching there. I had similar probs until my shift bushings were replaced at 70k miles. Additionally, I notice that with the Swepco 210 manual transmission fluid I currently use that it's hard to shift during the winter until it warms up a bit and I drive a few miles (under 45 deg F). With the Red Line fluids I don't notice as much. wolrah posted:
Grey is good to hide brake dust, my other rims are black and hide it even better! I put a shitload of work into this car since I got it as a CPO back in 2005. It's been mechanically bulletproof though. Only once E92 M3's get below $40k would I consider ditching it. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Dec 9, 2009 |
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Dec 9, 2009 23:37
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I'm not sure why, but ever since having a BMW, two very distinct things have happened: Where the hell do you live? Does everyone not driving a jacked up F250 Dually Diesel get treated the same?
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Dec 21, 2009 18:36
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Sterndotstern posted:RealOEM and BMWfans.info list that BMW P/N along with an M10x1.25 bolt as one of the possibilities for my make and model. I suspected I was sent the wrong part, since there seems to be some ambiguity with the BMW P/N, but both Pelican and AZ Autohaus list a Bosch part with that particular P/N. It wouldn't surprise me if someone had a store bought unit installed at some point. We deal with the same things on the E46 for the Alternators and Starters, 2 different ones with different electrical connections which you can only figure out by yanking the existing one. Both were used on the same model year cars. I would actually call Turner or Pelican and talk to them, they may be able help sort it out for you. Also check the dedicated E36 boards.
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Dec 23, 2009 17:57
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onesickvdub posted:edit: Side question - The car has a wood trim which doesn't bother me but I'd rather have the aluminum trim. I did a quick search on Ebay with no luck. Is this something I could buy/replace? It seems like it's just 5-6 pieces that would be replaced. also check out the "carbon fiber" styled fabric wrap that places like Jlevi's sells. I used it to cover up my wood paneling and it's been great.  ...also, if you just want the aluminum look, just pull off all the trim, primer it and paint and seal it. Tons of folks on Bimmerfest and E46fanatics have done it. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Apr 28, 2010 |
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Apr 28, 2010 16:23
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onesickvdub posted:Awesome. Does the back of the fabric wrap have an adhesive? Would you mind sending me pictures? that's my rig and about the only recent picture of the interior...too lazy to take more. You use the 3m spray adhesive stuff the other poster mentioned. Overspray is easily rubbed off. It's pretty easy.
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Apr 28, 2010 21:53
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I'm looking to buy a roof rack. Any recommendations? Thule wants like 500 for the entire kit and carrier, but I wanted to check craigslist and pick up the pieces used. Unless some of my fellow BMW NY area goons want to offload the appropriate pieces for a 2006 325i? Get the BMW crossbars from EBAY or Bimmerfest/E46fanboi. I got a used one for $100 a few years ago from Ebay. Then go buy the retardedly overpriced universal bike/ski etc racks from Yakima/etc later as you need them.
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Apr 30, 2010 23:22
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the E46 cooling system replacement is not a hard DIY, you do need to buy some tools you may not have though like a breaker bar, Torx T50 and stuff like that. I'd also add that since you are "already in there" do the belts for sure as well as ALL the tensioners/pulleys. Don't skimp on using old sensors either replace them all as you come across them. Proactively replace (or get replaced) any rubber poo poo as well, including things like the windshield tray by the wipers and especially air intake boots, CCV lines, DISA valves, control arm bushings, trailing arm bushings, etc etc, even the sunroof "clips". Fix poo poo BEFORE it fails.
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May 3, 2010 19:27
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ynotony posted:My 2003 330i is drinking a little oil. 3k after an oil change the little yellow oil light started to stay on after I turned off the car. The dip stick was almost at the low mark so I filled it up with half a quart and it rested just below full. Now, less than 1k later, the yellow oil light has returned and the dipstick approaches the lower level again. a quart every 1500 miles or so on an 80k plus mile E46 is not out of the ordinary, at least from my own experience as well as what i've seen on Bimmerfest/E46 fanatics, etc. As far as overdoing preventative maintenance, remember the DISA valve has a little plastic piece that slowly works itself loose and drops right into your engine if you don't replace the sucker. 20 min of work. I'd rather replace it early than grenade my engine.
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May 5, 2010 17:17
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Flyinglemur posted:Got it, thanks. Lemur, before anything I would seriously go look at BIMRS.ORG and see if there is an indy shop near where you will be. An M6 and it's V10 is going to be a shitload of money to service at a dealer, and as mentioned the parts prices are significantly higher as well. If it's just the 6 series body style you like, fallback on a 650 instead (it sounds like you are looking for a vert) and save some $ and hassles. For that kind of money I would get an E92 M3 instead though, but that's just me.
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Aug 1, 2010 18:38
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Flyinglemur posted:Keyser, thanks - will do. I have to go through a year of grad school before I buy anything, and that doesn't start until next September so I have plenty of time. I did get to take part in the Ultimate Driving Event and they let me out of their sight with this one (with no adult supervision): That car is very nice. They have smoothed out some of the clunkier aspects since the first year of the revamped 6er. You may want to lurk over at the Bimmerfest 6 series and M6 boards, see if folks mention problems. M6 board is pretty dead though. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=114 http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=113
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Aug 2, 2010 22:14
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CornHolio posted:I must say, the concept for the new 6-series is so much better than the current one. They are borrowing from Aston Martin, which is a good good thing. They really dumped all the goofyness of the 5-6-7 series with the newer versions starting with the 2007 750i. No more really obvious and annoying Dame Edna eyebrows and backpack trunk lids and tail lights that looked like they belong on a different car altogether. Subaru tail lights on the E60-5, Dodge tail lights on the E63-6 (or whatever it is) and god knows what on the original E65-7. I am still not a fan of the over-eyebrow headlights but it's a major improvement and light years beyond the original ugly rear end ones that came on these cars. I personally like the changes back to the "one snausage, different sizes" boring-ness.
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Sep 20, 2010 21:45
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Taco Box posted:Had this happen to me... The pump is a pretty common failure item. There is a check valve inside it that fails and let's the fluid out of the hole in the side of the pump. The pump is very easy to get to once you remove the tank, I think it was held in with just one bolt. Make sure to disconnect the fluid level sensor wire before trying to get the whole tank out. Also, make sure to replace the strainer at the same time as the pump. The parts aren't too expensive, I got mine at the dealer. E46 fanatics has a whole writeup of the process on there somewhere. I literally just did the pump and strainer replacement at lunch. A quick and easy 20 minute job. No real tricks but I suggest removing the front sensor last as it's easier to access once the pump and fluid line are disconnected. I used the Meyle replacement pump.
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Nov 22, 2010 22:11
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wallaka posted:It would be my daily driver, I have a huge car if I need to carry something large. I test drove a Cayman S and an Audi S5 this weekend, and they were damned nice in different ways. I can't think of much else in this price range besides the M coupe, M5/M6 and RS4, and there aren't any RS4's or M coupes within 300 miles of me. I do not like the new M3's, and I'll be damned if I settle for a Mustang. late model 2003-2004 996 911?
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Feb 10, 2011 17:43
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wallaka posted:Nah, not as good of a car as the Cayman from all accounts. Would you still choose a Cayman S over a 997? They seem to be popping up below $50k now. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/2205265767.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ctd/2206367760.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ctd/2208126984.html - I mention this as I will be going through the same dilemma soon. My 02 E46 330i warhorse has served me well as the second owner for almost six years and she still drives new as I have replaced and/or upgraded nearly everything but someday.........either a 911 or E92 V8 M3. I lurk Rennlist so I am aware of the potential daisy cutter on your head potential of 911 maintenance. 
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Feb 11, 2011 23:41
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Pilsner posted:Americans. jesus, I need 11 cupholders AND an X-Box 360 with 4 LED's flatscreens, fish tanks massage chairs, stripper pole or FAIL! j/k
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Feb 14, 2011 02:10
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