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frozenphil posted:
Mileage and is it for sale?
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Mar 28, 2008 20:23
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So I fell in love with the e30 M's but I don't want to pay the exorbitant markup on those cars (even though they are god drat beautiful) and have decided to start shopping for an e30. Going to look at this car this week is there anything I should know on top of your normal used car buying (rust, records, carfax, whatnot)? I fully plan on an engine swap down the road so I am fine with this being an 'e' as opposed to the more power 'i'. http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...&standard=false God drat auto trader links are retarded.
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Mar 18, 2009 05:25
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I'm sure most car buyers already hate people from Texas and California but if not here's a good reason to:     Guy wants $4500 for it. 114k miles and immaculate inside and out. It's a 1 owner car with every single receipt for it going back to its third oil change. New rad, water pump, timing belt, entire a/c system (dude said it was blowing a little warm so he had at it), clutch, no rust ANYWHERE. The only bad is an aftermarket stereo which has its usual frightening wiring every single loving slob seems to be doing these days. All electrical works though including the window switches etc. I can't find a reason to offer less then 4500 even though i know that's a little on the high end for these cars. Someone give me a reason not to buy this?
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Jun 29, 2009 02:32
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So i picked up an e30 (not the pristine one, rear end in a top hat sold it out from under me) and i'll hit you with the list i'm doing right now: Oil leak from the drain plug, either plug or sump stripped OBC replacement, backlight burned out and PO provided a replacement upholstery replacement on both seats sunroof jumped the track or broke 3rd day i had it blown headlight relay (switched with high beam) replacing exhaust from the cat-back typical odometer shenanigans (already got the gear) de-smell and restore the carpet front windshield replacement thinking about an oil pan guard from e30tech paintless dent removal, peel gold pinstripes, repaint car Front valance is tweaked, i dont really see a way to fix it... replace thinking about r134a conversion steering rack is done going aluminum radiator timing belt/water pump despite po's assurances... Only thing this car had going for it, was new clutch, rebuilt tranny and motor, and suspension goodies already present. Yes; i got receipts and it was from a reputable machine shop. *sigh* At least every time i look at this list i can go and drive it, blow around a corner, and zip around to make myself feel better. Coming from a jeep i feel like i'm driving a go cart.
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Jul 14, 2009 03:08
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So my radiator showed up today.... Gotta love jumping in a group buy that was only open for a day that netted me this beauty 175 shipped. Now if only my drat timing belt would show up i could get to it.
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Jul 29, 2009 01:37
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Realjones posted:I'm unsure if the stock fuel pump/clutch/brakes/etc can handle it? It can handle it. Countless people run stock (well other then induction) S52 engines in both the e30 and e36 with out blowing things apart.
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Jul 29, 2009 04:56
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Hermansen posted:The backlight on the controls for the heater and blower and so forth has gone out on my E30. Remove your radio and the access panels located near your glove box; you'll see the picture of this being done on mine in the following post. Of course mine was a lot easier given the previous owner is a jackass. That will give you enough room to reach all the little bulbs back there.
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Aug 19, 2009 02:48
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Cause I'm way too lazy to actually update a thread on a regular basis and do a proper project I'm going to post some progress and shenanigans in this thread of me banging on my e30. First up we have this random box of parts that includes all sorts of bits and pieces that will be going on the car over the next few weeks. The previous owner claims the timing belt was done recently but the previous owner has thus proven himself a pot smoking wastrel (hell even i smoke but drat this kid was stupid) who i don't believe so you'll see some of the timing belt parts in here.  This is the car right after I pulled off the hood which is a hell of a lot of fun to man handle by yourself.  I of course stored it properly out of the way since I have such a spacious garage.  As with most previous owners a superb wiring job was done for no good reason other then a lack of common sense. This car did not come with a stereo but it did come with lots of black electrical tape and shody workmanship! I'm trying to track down what gremlin causes my dash lights to fully illuminate sometimes, or only half the gauges light up at other times, or have me bashing my head on the dash all the time. I was also pulling the OBC to replace the lights on its lightboard as those are blown too.  I already replaced the ratty exhaust with a full stainless from Ireland engineering as you can see in this pic.  Oh; and the only thing the previous owner did right.  Now for a quick question. In this pic you'll see a sensor (right above the stripped oil pan that i'll be retapping this weekend... ugh) which I assume is the oil level sensor. Can someone confirm this for me?  Not shown is the full aluminium radiator that will be going in during the timing belt. I know that's a retarded amount of oil under there and it looks like one of the oil cooler lines is hosed. I know a guy that does rebuilds for 40 bucks so I'll be getting that taken care of. The PO snipped the power steering belt because the rack was leaking so I'm going to put the belt back on during the swap and see where the rack is leaking from before I call it dead and yank it out. I have long term plans to engine swap this thing and because it will be my first swap and there is ton of documentation and support for the s50 swap i think i'm leaning that direction. I wish I had the balls to go LS1 but the amount of custom fab'ing has me too chicken poo poo to do it. It would be beautiful to go ls1 though just to post it on s14 and watch those guys go through the roof. I've never seen so much rage by a community over brands as those guys manage to pull off. Oh and no i don't use that god awful jack shown; it's only the cheapo jack used when a 2nd jack needs to come into play. Scrubed fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Aug 19, 2009 |
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Aug 19, 2009 03:41
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McMadCow posted:It is an E30 325i. I just reached under the exhaust and undid it by hand. Went in reverse to reattach it. Seemed easy as pie to me. Of course, I did it when the engine was cold, but beyond that I don't see what could be so hard about it... It gets a lot harder when the PO uses red rtv on it for some reason. Had to drive a screwdriver through it to get enough torque.
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Sep 22, 2009 03:43
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god drat it....
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Dec 4, 2009 23:06
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90 325is. Full size truck spare right under the front valance. I have no idea how I didn't spin out. I was changing lanes and there it was in the middle of the road. Ordering a peerless skid plate. gently caress this ever happening again.
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Dec 4, 2009 23:44
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ljw1004 posted:At least for the 1988 325i, there was crossover wiring for the "speaker+tweeter" pairs, but it didn't change anything. There were still just the normal two wires coming out of the speaker assembly, you can still just cut+solder new wires onto them, no difficulty at all. This is incorrect; the common ground will blow newer head units or make your speakers sounds like utter trash. Read e30tech or r3v faq's on this. edit: Oh wait I read this wrong... you are running new wiring... All I really have to say about the job on an e30 is the gods damned plastic mold pieces on the bottom of the door frame are god drat impossible to get off. Anyone have a good way of going about this without breaking them? Scrubed fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Mar 24, 2010 |
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Mar 24, 2010 22:15
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BraveUlysses posted:And a loving skidpan. Goddamnit. Yeah; I want to take my 325is out to my mom's house in Austin next week (I live in Dallas) but the more I thought about it the more I chickened out on the idea of driving down the highway at night unable to see pot holes, debris, or dips. I already lost 1 oil pan and whatever springs the PO put on this car has it riding OBNOXIOUSLY low. I think I will wait till I get a peerless skid plate under there. http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74760&highlight=peerless+skid+plate
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Mar 26, 2010 18:35
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BraveUlysses posted:gently caress that peerless guy and his skid plates. Yeah the guy kind of gets holier then thou in his threads sometimes... but then again his threads get filled with idiotic trolls who've never even seen or used his product chiming in their two cents about poo poo they know nothing about. His threads summarize to me why I'll likely never do commerce in an internet forum. There's a pretty drat convincing youtube vid of a e30 losing it on the track and flying over speedbump size (and incredibly stupid) rumble strips. I know dick all about welding; but I have friends that can and it'll be a breeze. Less then 45 minutes to get that bad boy installed and have peace of mind instead of having to watch for every dip, bullshit piece of debris, or have my testicles jump into my stomach crossing railroad tracks while Texas drivers blow past me at 45 mph in their f150 brandishing middle fingers whilst i creep across at 10 mph.
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Mar 29, 2010 16:12
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Thoughts? The IS badging looks a little funky to me but I'll know if it's fake real quick since I already drive a 325IS. http://www.eurospecsales.com/111727/1989_BMW_2_Dr_325i_Coupe.html
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May 3, 2010 23:49
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Haha; they finally got tired of Peerless and his poo poo on R3V.... I'm not buying a skid plate from this dude now either; the other options out there may not be as stout but him being an obvious prick has turned me off. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=161134
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May 4, 2010 22:17
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voice_negative posted:I have the opportunity to get an e30 325i coupe from a friend for $1000, who just doesn't have the time for it anymore. ~200k miles on the body, but in really good condition. It has completely new suspension and exhaust, but needs a new engine. No engine@200k miles? I think 1k is a little high then unless he's done some serious maint and there's nothing else on the car that needs replacing. But if it's pristine, no cracked dash, good paint, etc etc then 1k isn't all that bad. You should be able to find an m20 just by posting on r3v and e30tech for relatively cheap; a lot of people let those engines for for 300ish. These engines are not that hard to pull and replace. The only thing I can tell you is take a shitload of pics, label every drat nut and bolt, and clean the engine bay while you have a good unobstructed shot at it. In all honesty though if you have the funds for it... And the engine has to go anyways... m50/s50/s52? But then again being a broke motherfucker I understand times are tough and you might not have 2-4k in invest in such a project. If you're going to stick to the m20 a mild super eta build might be a good idea too. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M20 http://www.e30dohc.com/wiki/index.php?title=DOHC_Swap_Basics http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&q=m20+engine+for+sale&scoring=pd&show=dd&sa=N&start=10 http://www.e30tech.com/forum/ http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/index.php Scrubed fucked around with this message at 23:18 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 23:13
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voice_negative posted:Thanks Wait for someone parting out a car... That'll be your best bet on r3v and e30tech.
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May 5, 2010 18:51
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fartingfool posted:Bit of an odd problem at hand with my 1985 325e and engine skipping/missing. Verify the intake boot has no cracks in it by taking it completely off and inspecting it. Verify the fuel lines/fuel fitler/fuel pump.
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May 9, 2010 22:49
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revmoo posted:I just replaced the three green base bulbs in my gauge cluster which according to Pelican are for the analog gauges. I still have dim spots in both my tach and speedo. You drive a later model like an e36 right? Do the SI clusters go bad in your car like they notoriously do in the e30? If so... low grade fix... hit the top of the dash with your palm (or in my case rattle your teeth on a pot hole) or look into getting a new board/resoldering the joins.
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May 11, 2010 04:22
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fartingfool posted:Intake boot, fuel lines, fuel filter are all less than a year old. I hear the pump whirring away. These are words of encouragement for it being fuel related though. Is it possible to still have a distinct smell of gas and foglike exhaust if it's not getting fuel correctly? Fuel, air, spark would be my three culprits in your situation. You've pretty much narrowed it down to fuel from your tests.
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May 11, 2010 04:30
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Is Pelican a pretty good company? I need a fan blade for my E36 and they have it for like $10 more than FCP Groton, who I've never heard of... Yeah they are fine; just like any parts company though they occasionally have their issues. They aren't usually the cheapest option either.
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May 12, 2010 20:51
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:...17mpg I get that in an I6.... 98 Jeep Wrangler. Something does not compute with your car. Scrubed fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Jun 16, 2010 |
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Jun 16, 2010 00:35
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evobatman posted:If you are as familiar with wiring stuff together as you say, you should have the remote up and running in less than an hour. All you need to do is find a guide on what wires to splice the lock and unlock signal wires into in an E30. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=46332
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Jun 23, 2010 01:53
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| # ¿ May 7, 2024 16:19 |
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Kill-9 posted:In Texas we're supposed to have a front plate though our old Mustang never ran with one. Only were ever asked about it once and were just told 'put it on when you get a chance.' I planned on doing the same with this one. I removed the ugly plate holder yesterday only to find previous owners turned the bumper to swiss cheese under that. Why the gently caress they needed 7 holes to do what 1 or some good double stick tape could do I'll never understand. They changed this law a year or so ago. No more front plates.
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Sep 21, 2010 20:15
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