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CHIPSEDITED on February 27th, 2024 All inclusive, 1-, 2-, 3-, 4-, 5-, 6-, 7-, 8- , Z-, X-, M-Cars, and the new i-Series electric cars. Older cars are obviously welcome too! Yes, MINIs (and even Minis) can play too Let's start off with the most common question. Q: What's all this "E, F and G" business? A: BMW chassis codes are designated with an E for older cars (pre-2012 typically), R codes for BMW MINIs, F for newer BMWs (2009-2020 or so), G for the newest (>2018) cars and soon, U-codes (BMWs based on the shared MINI platform from 2022+). It's become pretty complicated of late with every body style getting a chassis code of its own now, and the proliferation of F- and G-code cars; here's a link that explains both the chassis codes, as well as BMW's engine code system too: https://www.bimmerworld.com/About-Us/BMW-Chassis-Engine-Codes/ Resource web sites: RealOEM BimmerDIY Unofficial BMW Understeer.com Bimmerforums (use at your own risk; regional/classified/motorsport sections are good, otherwise a bunch of f'ing idiots) BMW USA BMW CCA BMW CCA Club Racing http://www.e38.org/ - a good resource for older 5- and 7-Series cars; lots of dead links though so beware. Parts: FCP Euro Pelican Parts Turner Motorsport (Note that Pelican and Turner are both owned by ECS Tuning these days; they've left a bitter taste in the mouths of some people so buyer beware, I guess) Bimmerworld EvoSport UUC Motorwerks GermanParts.ca (for our  friends)We can talk about a lot of things: BMW Driving Experience, BMW European Delivery, BMW Ultimate Drive (Komen), repairs, buyer's advice, racing/autocross/track days, or whore out pictures of our MAD TYTE WHIPS. Somebody fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Feb 28, 2024 |
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Mar 28, 2008 04:04
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miklm fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Sep 8, 2014 |
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Mar 28, 2008 04:29
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I've never seen a ZHP coupe before. Every one I've ever seen has been a sedan. You apparently bought that while I was on my six-month AI sabbatical, so a belated congratulations. Would you object to me asking "how much?" I think I'd rather have than than a E46 M3. Maybe. Its a stunning car, and there can't be many of them around. To adjust the front camber, you're going to either need to shim it (cheap hack) or do it right with camber plates. The rear is adjustable by turning an eccentric bolt (I assume they didn't change this from the E36?) but you don't have a lot of adjustment there either (then again, you don't really need it). *edit* First post slightly updated; thanks Mad Dragon for the additional E codes. I just copied the info from another site and it was obviously a few years old. Included 1-series, and MINIs as acceptable thread fodder.
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Mar 28, 2008 16:12
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Tab8715 posted:How much are you guys spending on maintenance? I'm curious to see how much you're putting into BMWs that have got ~200k. How often are they breaking down? I will post full records for my black, green, and white E36s. I have receipts for the gold one at home, but wasn't keeping digital records then. I don't have any documentation on the E30, as it was "her" car. http://www.miklm.com/upload/BMW_E36_92_325i_gre.pdf http://www.miklm.com/upload/BMW_E36_92_325is_bla.pdf http://www.miklm.com/upload/BMW_E36_96_328is_whi.pdf The last one won't tell you much, as I've only had the car for just over a month and haven't done anything major yet. The stuff without a date is just a shopping list. As far as breaking down, the only time I've had one towed was when the oil pump nut backed off the gold car, at Deal's Gap (~300 miles from home) in June '06.
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Mar 28, 2008 18:25
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Luk3 posted:
What's that "special tool"? A 13mm socket and a hammer? That's all I see you need to "adjust" it, but you can't get any serious camber that way regardless. You can pick up maybe 1.5 degrees negative using the shim kit but you'll really want some camber plates to do it right (you could get in the range of -4 or -5 degrees using plates) On the E36, just look on the lower control arm at the bottom, there's an eccentric bolt there in a bushing and turning it will get you minimal camber adjustment (again, only about +-.5 deg)
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Mar 28, 2008 18:32
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:I might be changing the oil pan gasket on my car in the near future (oh god), while I'm there is there anything I can do to keep this from happening? I know some people weld the nut on but that seems like overkill. The obvious recommendation would be to replace the oil pump. Mine actually sheared off. Well, to be honest, I never saw it, I was covered up when it happened and just had it towed to the local shop. Vines sent up a new oil pump and they put it in. I think it was under $600 after parts & labor. It is a somewhat common issue, but I've never looked any further into it.
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Mar 28, 2008 18:40
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Ether Frenzy posted:I'm currently looking at a very nice white '89 E30 M3 with 180k miles, everything original (no engine mods at all) except for drivers seat & upgraded bilsteins, with a very nicely maintained interior (no dash cracks.) No accidents, a few dings. Is that too many miles on a 19 year old car to make this a reasonable buy at $11500? Is this going ot be your primary/only car/daily driver, or a weekend toy to keep in the garage? If the former, I couldn't advise going through with it, but that's a perfect example for the latter. I certainly doing think its ever going to go down in value unless you abuse it. You could enjoy that without worrying about putting a few miles on it. Also, that paint scheme (alpine white with M stripes) is what I plan on doing to my track car down the road. I love it, although most I see go across the hood/roof as well and to the opposite side. That's a neat effect just going up on fender. Are they mirrored on the right side?
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Mar 28, 2008 20:14
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stump posted:Fuel computer currently read 36.2 UK mpg average (30 US mpg), which seems a bit low, I'm not sure if perhaps there is something wrong with it or if I should just lay off the LOL pedal. Out of interest what mpg do you guys see out of your petrol models? I run about 20 in town, and 26-27 on the highway with the 328is. I also need new oxygen sensors so that could be hurting my MPG too. The 325is did 25-26 no matter how I drove, but I've moved since and have a lot more stop and go driving now, which sucks and really kills the MPG. Some days when traffic is really bad I'd almost like an automatic. People here can't drive at all.
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Mar 28, 2008 21:22
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Xenoid posted:COOLING SYSTEM MUST BE REPLACED ALREADY. Never forget that. Beyond a certain few models, that's not universally true. The E30 didn't really have cooling issues, but the timing belts need attention at about the same interval. The main cars with cooling issues are E36, but that's also possibly the most common BMW being purchased by enthusiasts on the cheap these days so you hear about it the most. Just throwing that out...
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Mar 29, 2008 00:48
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BraveUlysses posted:Up until about 96, all the water pumps were made with plastic impellers, which destroy themselves at 50-80k. The mechanical fans like to break over time, sending fan blades into the hoses and/or radiator. Radiators necks tend to break, most likely by 100k. The coolant overflow/reservoir is a plastic bottle that will eventually break. Some of the thermostat housings were made of plastic. Basically, if you just budget $350 to buy the whole kit and replace everything soon after acquiring your E36, you'll never have a cooling problem.
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Mar 29, 2008 03:19
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DiZ posted:and a mclaren F1 or something, enjoy. What's that, some Ferrari with a body kit? Why is it in a BMW shop?
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Mar 29, 2008 03:40
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Admirable Gusto posted:It is the most annoying transmission lever in the world. My parents have an AT E60 525i (we put small engines in cars in Asia hurr) and every time I have to touch it I gingerly clasp the thing with the tips of my fingers like I'm going to break it, and it feels like the cheapest plastic joystick in the world. The action feels more mechanically decoupled than your average automatic shifter and makes it plain that it's the car's electronic brain that is calling the shots, not you. Over-engineered creatively-shaped garbage, that's what the shifter is (grumble, grumble, rant over). It really is absolutely awful. I drove an '08 650 convertible for the Komen/Ultimate Drive transport, and after we stopped at a rest area mid-way, I couldn't figure out how to operate either the push-button starter OR the gearshifter to reverse. I'm a mid-20s IT professional/"computer guy", and *I* hate iDrive and the electro-gizzardry on these cars. Aside from the stupid shift lever and the broken paddles (pull upshift/push downshift WTF SERIOUSLY) the actual transmission isn't bad for an automatic, especially in sport mode. It would annoy the piss out of me on the track, but for a GT type top-down highway missile its alright. I just can't for the life of me understand how some of this driver interface stuff is "better" than the plain gearshift lever, key-turn starter, and knobs for heat/AC/radio in a base-model '90 Civic. Or '90 BMW 5-series, for that matter.
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Apr 1, 2008 05:40
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CornHolio posted:Do I need the special tool to remove the large mechanical fan at the from of the engine? I've heard both yes and no from various places. You can do it without it, but after banging around for a couple of hours and getting VERY angry about not having the proper tool, I found a picture of the implement and my brother found a suitable piece of scrap metal, a grinder, and drill press and made his own. It is reverse threaded, so you have to hold the bolts while screwing the fan backwards. With the right tool, its a 5-minute job to R&R, otherwise you may get lucky or you may not. This is what you need: http://www.samstagsales.com/SirTool/stbmw_3037.jpg, along with a thin wrench (memory fails me, but its around 36mm, which won't be in your basic tool kit). (which just reminds me -- we actually broke the fan pulley trying to get the fan off with the wrong tools, so I ended up having to buy that -- that's when we made the right tool to fit)
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Apr 9, 2008 04:37
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Auu posted:It's a bit dicey, but when I did the fan delete, I managed to wedge a long (almost 2ft long) flathead screwdriver between two of the pulley bolts to wedge it in place, then wrenched the main bolt off while holding the screwdriver in place. It did take a while to make this work. We managed to break one screwdriver and bend another, then break the plastic fan pulley, so your mileage may vary. It came off in a second with the right tool. 
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Apr 9, 2008 22:34
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bobhope posted:In other news, another reason I love my 328is: I don't get close to that in my 328is. I averaged 24.5mpg on my last trip up to TN, but I spend a lot more time at 85 than 75. I also need new O2 sensors. Oh, but my trip computer thingy there says I'm doing 27+, so you might want to double check that using the old fashioned manual way and see what your real fuel economy is. As for the X6, Jalopnik has a recent couple of articles on it, and I thought they summed it up well, giving it a 3-star rating overall, liking some things and hating other (including that damned automatic transmission that pretends its an F1 flappy paddle box and fails).
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Apr 12, 2008 06:20
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Anybody replaced a front wheel bearing (full hub assembly obviously) on an E36? Do I really need a 46mm socket and 210 ft lbs of torque??? two_beer_bishes, that reminds me I need to try to install the ETK/TIS CDs I got off a torrent site many months ago. That could come in handy...
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Apr 30, 2008 04:21
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Bateau posted:What is an acceptable substitute to BMW factory oil for E46s? BMW recommends their own oil (duh!) or any synthetic rated ACEA A3 / API SH. It seems that ACEA A3 is really hard to come by in off-shelf 5w-30 oils. The only Mobil 1 that fits that rating is 0w-40. Unless you live in a pretty cold climate, my experience is that 30w oil is too thin for most BMW applications. I actually have run only Shell Rotella T 15W-40 oil in my all my BMWs for the past 3 years or so, but regardless of type, I'd run a 40 or even 50 weight through the summer. For the E46 M3, you want to run only 10W-60. 30 is just too thin unless you're in the north in the winter. -- I posted over here and maybe this thread is a better place: Opinions wanted: I had the option of 25.4mm or 27mm front sway bar from UUC. Their "normal" application is the 25.4mm bar for the M and non-M E36, but the SPEC E36 or "race" bar is a 27mm but with spherical bushings. Since I plan to *eventually* have a SPEC E36 car, I got the 27mm bar with standard (street) bushings, so I can just swap bushings/end links down the road and use the big bar. Is a 27mm UUC bar too big for "normal" use? A lot of people claim that this will induce too much understeer, but other people like GroovinPickle have told me in the past that that is just hearsay and bollocks. What says AI? I've got a 27mm bar on a UPS truck en route, so I'm going to find out one way or another. miklm fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Apr 30, 2008 |
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Apr 30, 2008 04:29
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Ultimate Mango posted:I thought that the 'bmw' oil was just Castrol Syntec 5w30 full synthetic? I missed that thread, but BMWs love thick oil. The E46 M3 motor only takes 10W-60 full synthetic Castrol. The M50, M52, and M54 motors tend to get a little chatter in the top end with SAE30 oils, and it goes away with a 40-50 weight. Many E36 guys run a 20W-50 synthetic Mobil1. AMSOIL's "European" formula for BMW, Porsche, MB, etc., is a 5W-40 synthetic. This is just some anecdotal data, but I've certainly never doubted my choice to run 15W-40 in my M50/M52 cars. Are you going to significantly shorten the life of the car running it on 10W-30? Unlikely, but I just sleep better at night with thicker oil in my crankcase. I also live in the southeast and my cars are garaged, so I don't deal with cold starts and I do most track days in the dead of summer. I usually do a 5000 street miles oil change interval, or before a track event. That's what's worked well for me, ymmv. balakadaka posted:Yes and yes. Rent a torque wrench that goes to 250 lb-ft. My local AutoZone had one, 1/2" drive. Also, rent a three arm puller. The old hub assembly will probably come out, but the inner race tends to stick on the axle. The 46mm nut can also come off with a 1-13/16" socket, available at many more places than a 46mm (TSC Tractor Supply had one). 210 ft lbs means "as hard as you can f'ing hammer it down" in the miklm service manual so I'm not worried about the torque wrench. David's big one might go that high anyway, if not its in the upper 100s so that plus an extra grunt should secure it. I can also get a 46mm socket easily, I just wanted to make sure that is in fact what I need before I order this stuff, and analyzing whether this is a home garage DIY or a wait and take it to the family shop in TN type project. I'm thinking the latter, because it isn't urgent, but I suspect I have a passenger side bearing going bad. I just hope its the front, not rear... Thanks! miklm fucked around with this message at 04:02 on May 1, 2008 |
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May 1, 2008 03:58
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Understeer posted:Do the E36 and E46 inline sixes require premium gas? I'm looking to get rid of my Evo for something more comfortable that also gets better mileage, and also runs on regular if possible. Every BMW I've owned has about 7 stickers all over the gas fill cap and fuel gauage "USE PREMIUM UNLEADED FUEL ONLY" and it also says it in the manual. I have occasionally (rarely but occasionally) filled them with regular 87 or mid-grade 89, or even 10% Ethanol RaceTrac slush and they did not explode. YMMV. I run Shell Premium when I can be bothered to stop at that station, otherwise Exxon or Chevron 93. KS posted:I think it might have had crappy fuel in it because when the hood was lifted there was a definite ticking noise, Welcome to the BMW inline 6 experience. See my post a page back about thick oil vs. thin. It could also be the VANOS unit. It is almost positively not bad fuel. I can't remember the last BMW motor I was around that did not tick in some fashion, no matter how new or well maintained. I think it gives it character. "I'M ALIVE TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK"
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May 2, 2008 04:09
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Taymar posted:It's not bumper-to-bumper but seems to cover a good amount. Pretty much anything that's critical and not a wear item or an entertainment item. Apparently there's also a $50 surcharge for every warranty repair visit. So basically it covers everything that never breaks, while specifically exempting all the things that wear out. Absolutely worthless, but a good reason to buy a car from a private seller, preferably a BMW CCA member with extensive documentation on the car since new. I'd take that over a dealership "CPO" car any day.
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May 3, 2008 05:18
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Mad Dragon posted:CPO is better than no warranty at all, which is exactly what you'll get from a private seller. You'll also get better financing rates with a CPO car, versus some shitheap off the carmax lot or craigslist. I'd take a car out of the Roundel classifieds over any of those. I'd rather roll the eBay Motors dice than deal with a dealership, honestly. But that's me. On a more positive note, I suddenly seem to have several boxes labeled "Koni" and "H&R" in my garage... I hear a man in a brown truck is bringing another one labeled "UUC".
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May 3, 2008 13:20
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mungtor posted:Anything out of the Roundel classifieds will be expensive and no more reliable than a CPO from a dealer. The "never driven in rain, only Zymol, detailed with a q-tip" crowd seems to think that their cars don't depreciate. Most of them are also insufferable douches who think that a BMW is a lifestyle rather than just a car. I disagree with your position that a fully documented and correctly maintained car will be "no more reliable" than a realtor-wife leased car that barely got the minimum maintenance but was lease termed to a dealership's CPO lot and barely glanced at by a couple of service techs and the wash boy. The dealership techs can barely get it right when they're being paid specifically to fix a reported problem, much less find unreported random problems to preventatively fix before it goes to the CPO lot? Right. The dealership would rather roll the dice and gamble that nothing major will break before that warranty runs out, or they'll find some other way to weasel out of responsibility on it. If he isn't still banned, Mapless I'm sure can chime in with paragraphs of glee about his CPO buying experience. I'm SURE he'd recommend it, after nearly assaulting a Tom Williams BMW employee over a control arm.
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May 4, 2008 04:58
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two_beer_bishes posted:E36 M3 shock tower tear That may be the worst one I've ever seen. Is that rust back there? Sterndotstern is probably on the right track. Whatever the fix is, it will require a lot of cutting and welding. How nice is the car? Was this caused by road damage or something that you might claim it under your comprehensive insurance policy? I don't see it being cheap to fix right, to the point where I'd trust it not to fail again. What about the other side?
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Sep 16, 2009 15:52
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Speculus posted:By the way, does anyone want to know what it's like working at Plant Spartanburg (home of the X5, X6, and their motorsport variants)? Please no questions that you know I shouldn't answer I'll be over there sometime between now and February for a one-day M school (unless I decide to pony up $1700 more to make it two days) I was there for a two-day school in September '06. Both have been freebies won at BMW CCA events. That alone has made the membership pay for itself if I never get anything else out of it for the rest of my life, but there's also the $500 Rewards program rebate I am about to claim for buying the wife a CPO X3. If you aren't a BMW CCA member, please go join now (and tell them member # 368285 referred you) Also I never posted a thread about this, but we went to Switzerland & Germany this summer (it was our honeymoon) and I was able to visit the Porsche museum in Stuttgart, the Nurburgring (as a vistor, not a driver) and the BMW World/Museum in Munich, as well as top out our crap Renault rental at 122MPH on the Autobahn and drive all through the awesome Alps. We put 4500km on the rental car (had 300km when we picked it up) Pictures: http://www.miklm.com/2009/06/pictures-from-germany/ miklm fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Oct 2, 2009 |
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Oct 2, 2009 03:04
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Pilsner posted:I was expecting pictures of nature and scenery and all that... sweet that it's 100% car pictures We got a lot of that stuff too, but it is mostly posted on her Facebook albums. That Picasa account is where I keep my automoto pix, and Google posted:You are currently using 959 MB (93.66%) of your 1024 MB. so no room to clutter it up with petty things like the Alps or Lake Geneva or any of that mundane stuff. It was an amazingly awesome trip, and I highly encourage any of you to do it. Only thing that would have made it better would be taking European Delivery while we were there. If I can ever bring myself to pay for a brand new BMW or Porsche, I'll go back and do that.
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Oct 2, 2009 16:42
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havelock posted:How bad of an idea is a 100k mile e46 m3? Probably a terrible idea, but that shouldn't stop you if its cheap enough. I've actually been wondering the same thing...
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Oct 3, 2009 03:44
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McMadCow posted:Awesome, thanks for that. I was going to ask. They all leak. 3s, and probably other BMWs, are notorious for PS leaks. If its a few drops, don't even bother, you might just make it worse. If you're using a quart a week, then look into it. Try some stop leak PS fluid first - PS fluid is about the only thing I'm ok with using stop leak in...
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Oct 13, 2009 01:22
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Jorsh posted:I couldn't really disagree with this any harder. Replacing the hoses isn't a big deal and you'd have to go out of your way to make the leak any worse unless it's coming from the pump or the rack. Every one of the hoses on my 328is leaked precisely because some clever PO or shop had "fixed" it with common hose clamps. OTOH it kept all the front end nicely lubed with a slow drip of the cheapest PS fluid money can buy.
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Oct 13, 2009 12:36
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Cakefool posted:BMW nerds, I need diesel advice. Cummins 4bt? Errr... BMW diesels in the US are ultra rare until the new TT unit in the 335d/X5 3.5d, and I don't think that meets your criteria. Where are you located?
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Oct 22, 2009 17:02
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McMadCow posted:This may sound a bit odd, but does anyone have any instructions for getting to the rear strut tower in an E36 sedan? I'm hearing some rattling around back there and I'd just like to check it out. Cut the carpet. No, really.  That's from my '96 328is coupe, but the easist way is to cut on three sides so it will still stay attached. You don't really notice the cut after you put it back, but you always have easy access to the shock towers (especially important if you put on Koni Yellow single adjustable shocks which have to be all but taken out to adjust). That also avoids the pain that is removing the speakers/boxes to take out the carpets. More trouble than its worth, unless you have an E36 M3 LTW with 125 original miles or something... Otherwise, one box cutter and 30 seconds, done.  Normal use; you really don't notice it unless you're looking for it... miklm fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Oct 27, 2009 |
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Oct 27, 2009 06:03
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Sterndotstern posted:Bought distilled water (I stopped at a well-lit supermarket) and tried to refill the radiator after reattaching the hose to the t-stat. I filled the overflow and started the car, but the overflow was bubbling quite a lot. I on put the overflow cap and tried to drive away, but it almost immediately went into the red again. At that point, I wasn't willing to piss off my wife any more by loving with it, so I called some friends for a ride. Could have been an air bubble in the system. I had a similar issue after leaving the expansion tank cap off several years ago on an E36. Had to bleed the system, ultimately did a full flush/refill, but I doubt you did much damage in that short time.
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Nov 16, 2009 06:42
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Palace of Lies posted:Any x5 sport owners here or anyone with experience driving them? I'm smitten with them at the moment and I've googled the poo poo out of them to catch some reviews but I'm still on the fence. Can pick one up for around £8000 on autotrader and I'm tempted to take the plunge. I'll be doing no offroading with it I'm just leaning towards it as I'm tall (6'5") and prefer space and comfort to speed(both is better!). We tested an X5 and ended up buying an X3 for MY WIFE. She thought the X5 (the old one) was too truck-ish. The X3 is a 3'er wagon with a lift kit. I like it a lot more than I thought I would. Really though there isn't much more room in the X3 than a 3-series, or the X5 than a 5'er wagon. The X3 does handle very good, better than a lot of cars I've driven. Its been a long time since I drove an X5, but it feels big and heavy but not quite like a half-ton pickup. I would have preferred a 3-series sport wagon, but the X3 is as close as I could get her to accept. It has the M54B30 which I love; seen as high as 26.4mpg on road trips, which is only 1mpg less than I got in my E36 328is. miklm fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Nov 20, 2009 |
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Nov 20, 2009 02:18
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OP updated with below linkquote:BrokenKnucklez wrote on Aug 25, 2011 21:57:
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Aug 26, 2011 04:22
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Hi, thread. It's been a while. I've had this E30 since late 2009 after I sold my E36 328is, and it's had less than 10 miles put on it in that time. It spent a year parked in my garage, 2 years on the lift in our shop, a year parked outside, and finally got put back together this year and sent off for paint/body work. I got it back this weekend. Was originally Lachssilber, I had it painted Alpinweiss III. It has full SpecE30 suspension kit & exhaust, camber plates, new clutch, LSD swap, short shifter, all poly or solid bushings, new brakes all around, A/C removed, engine fan delete, stripped interior... Dash & doors intact still, not sure on the weight. New timing belt, all maintenance items done, suspension mount points reinforced, etc. This is why you don't buy a project car, kids. I paid $800 for this stupid car from a Bf.c member locally who was taking a job transfer to Texas and didn't want to move it with him. Now 5 years later I have nearly 10x that in it (and that's my brother & I doing all the labor, except paint/body) - it just needs a couple hundred bucks more to be a good street/autox/track day toy (which will be done in the next week or two), and a few grand more to be a real RACECAR (cage, fire system, nets & harnesses, FIA seats, etc.) Oh, add $70 just for new Roundels for hood & trunk today. That's almost 10% of what I paid for the whole car. And I just sat outside Saturday night staring at it. What is it about these old Deutsche autos?
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Sep 8, 2014 20:03
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