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Xenoid posted:How does that work? I did the plugs on my V8 and it was probably faster than some of the I4/V4s I've done in the past (from Dodge to Toyota). I hope the 2002 735 doesn't have the same problems as the 745.
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Jan 9, 2009 00:50
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2002-2003 E65/66s are shitheaps. Avoid them like the plague.
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Jan 12, 2009 12:33
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Dogtanian posted:The problem with researching this kind of thing online is it's almost impossible to cut through anecdotal bullshit and find the actual numbers. Most people that post on car messageboards are there because they're having some kind of problem etc etc etc. Add to this the fact that people paid a hell of a lot for them at new, so they're understandably angry that something has gone wrong. Speaking of warranty: that 6 years is up for the 2002s, and the 2003s aren't far behind (thank GOD). Those that haven't already passed 100k miles, that is. Free maintenance expired a long time ago, so very few have had proper fluid changes. I've seen cars with every single maintenance item overdue by thousands of miles, and the owners had no intention of getting them done. You do not want one of these cars.
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Jan 13, 2009 13:09
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Get the widescreen. I don't even know if you can get new mkII units. I also like how that wiki article tells you where you can get illegal MKIV firmware. 
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Jan 26, 2009 12:56
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maxallen posted:
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Jan 26, 2009 15:47
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The original joke was a porcupine and a Porsche. It makes more sense; both words beginning with por. Having dealt with BMW owners for the past 3 years, the two are pretty much interchangeable.
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Feb 8, 2009 19:30
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Sterndotstern posted:(the non-LSD E46s are HILARIOUSLY drifty with one-wheel drive) 
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Feb 11, 2009 00:57
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CornHolio posted:Also, '97 328i 5-speed.
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Feb 17, 2009 04:09
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Swap_File posted:Edit: I believe 0W-40 is the new year around oil BMW recommends. 5W-40 should also be OK. I don't think they suggest using 5W-30 anymore. Mad Dragon fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Feb 17, 2009 |
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Feb 17, 2009 21:44
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Duck996S posted:there have been quite a few recalls so make sure they have been done, esp. the steering column. There are 5 recalls for the E90; 2 for the 330/325: 12 06 07 SI September 2007 Emissions Recall 07E-A01: N54 - Reprogramming Vehicle (DME) for OBD Diagnostic E90, E92 12 06 06 SI April 2007 Emissions Recall 06E-A01: N52, M54, M56-Reprog. Vehicle (DME) OBD Diagnostic E90, E91 and E60, E61 with N52 produced up to 10/04/2005 28 06 08 SI November 2008 Recall 08V-595: M3 with M DCT - Reprogramming for Incorrect DCT Clutch Operation E90, E92, E93 31 03 06 SI November 2006 Recall 06V-400, Check Tightening Torque of Front Axle Control Arms & Tie Rods - 325 and 330 models which were produced from 30 June 2006 through 14 July 2006 Don't run into the dealership demanding they perform a recall. If it needed it, it was probably already done. If it wasn't done, it will show up on the car's repair history and it will be performed. If it never needed it, it won't get done, no matter how many forum quotes and printouts you throw at them.  If you hate the dealership, you're buying the wrong car. E90s are not DIY-friendly. Get a CPO car, or don't bother. Mad Dragon fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Mar 9, 2009 |
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Mar 9, 2009 03:44
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Duck996S posted:Yep, sorry not trying to confuse anyone, meant bulletins (TSB?). Was specifically referring to early steering column issues that seem to plague these cars. The whole ELV thing is retarded. Newer cars don't even have them, and there's no way to retrofit older cars to delete it. It's not a big deal for me; I can have the column out and replaced in about an hour without even popping the hood.
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Mar 9, 2009 18:47
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Jonny 290 posted:S50M25 motor. M50B25? S50B30? Is it an M3 or a 325?
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Mar 9, 2009 21:43
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peterjmatt posted:Just some professional curiosity, but how do you replace a steering column without popping the hood on an e90? The only pain in the rear end part of the job is under the hood; removing the flange bolt on the column linkage at the firewall. Pull off the rubber bushing and use a 12pt 8mm gear wrench (it will fit on the E10 bolt).
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Mar 9, 2009 23:52
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The official spec for brake pads is 3mm. The sensor usually trips within 1mm of that. The sensors are just a big wire loop that the cluster monitors. If one sensor is broken, the light comes on. Older cars can't differentiate between front and rear. It's always a good idea to replace the sensor when you do pads, even if it looks okay. The wires are thin, so it's pretty easy to break them. Brock Landers posted:I'd buy a 1 owner, fully documented (all service records) car from a private seller before a I'd get a certified car with no history from a dealer. As previously mentioned, CPO doesn't cover everything. Aftermarket warranties aren't much better: the co-pays can be higher (CPO is a flat $50, no matter how many lines are on the ticket), it takes forever (in flat-rate time) to get work authorized, they can underpay labor time, sometimes forcing you to make up the difference, and the cheaper ones won't cover much more than the CPO warranty. Obviously, it's a good idea to shop around.
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Mar 12, 2009 19:42
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CornHolio posted:If the sensor isn't working, does it by default trip the light on the dash though? ie, does it continually send a signal to the car sayings its working and the pads are fine? The 'sensor' is just a loop of wire molded into a piece of plastic. As the pads (LF and RR) wear down, the plastic wears with them. Eventually, the wire is exposed and cut by the rotor. The cluster 'sees' this open circuit, and the brake lining light is lit.
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Mar 12, 2009 20:24
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MalleusDei posted:Anybody looking for a project? That sure is a nice Escort ZX1 Civic Accord Corolla gas saver economy impalla aveo hyundai Project M3 M5 M6 Roadster cabriolet Builder.
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Mar 16, 2009 19:32
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CornHolio posted:My only thoughts are, "warning: gears!"
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May 25, 2009 20:02
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Brock Landers posted:Either way, you can try a used DME, but it will need to be coded by the dealership for it to work. Make sure they are willing to do that (some just won't) and how much they will charge you for it. If you swap the EWS with the DME, you're going to need the keys with it (assuming it'll work at all). Don't ever lose them, because BMW isn't going to give you the keys to a car with mismatched VINs.
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Jun 4, 2009 13:11
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CornHolio posted:It's getting hot out (95+) so I've been using my A/C. It may be my imagination, but it doesn't seem to blow as cold as it used to. I'm gonna put some gauges on it pretty soon, but I noticed this on one of the compressor fittings: The compressor hoses can be removed, so you can replace the o-rings.
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Jun 25, 2009 21:00
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Brock Landers posted:I've never EVER heard a good outcome from dealing with a 3rd party warranty company. They'll cheerfully take your money and find any way in they can to not pay out including, in this case, outright lying. As a tech, I hated dealing with aftermarket warranties. They would use some shitdick universal flat-rate manual that was always much lower than BMW's system, or they would deny a claim over some stupid technicality (apparently, a final stage resistor is not the same as a fan speed control switch, even though it is  ).
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Jun 18, 2010 22:01
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You need a BMW diagnostic tool to find out what's wrong with the MOST bus. Buying a used control module is a gamble with newer BMWs, because they're usually married to the car when they're coded and programmed.
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Jun 19, 2010 19:42
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Fermunky posted:
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Nov 30, 2010 19:35
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Fermunky posted:Yeah, I'd stay away from rscott posted:In America? I don't think we got any of the non L variants, or if we did, they were pretty rare. There are a bunch of E32/E38's in Wichita and I'm pretty sure all but one or 2 is a 740iL and the other two are 750iLs.
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Dec 2, 2010 21:02
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Lowclock posted:I'd probably skip it just because I can't seem to find a valve body rebuild kit for a 5hp24 like there is for the older 5hp30.
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Dec 2, 2010 22:34
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bitchymcjones posted:This has probably been answered somewhere in the thread, but it's 178 pages long and I'm not reading every page to find it. It's not a VW. You can use regular anti-freeze. Operating Fluids February 2007 Group 17 Radiator Technical Service 1.0 General Information On Long-Term Antifreeze And Corrosion Inhibitors The cooling system of BMW cars must only be filled with reputable brand name ethylene glycol long-term antifreeze having corrosion inhibitors that are compatible with aluminum radiators. Coolants must fulfill four basic requirements. — Guarantee sufficient cooling. — Protect various metals (gray cast iron, steel, aluminum alloys, brass, copper and solder) against corrosion. — Prevent excessive silicate gel precipitation, which may cause clogging of the cooling system. — Guarantee operation of cooling system in winter (prevent freezing of coolant) and in summer by boosting the boiling point. The quality or grade of a long-term antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor is very important to be able to protect metal (gray cast iron, steel, aluminum alloys, brass, copper and solder) in the cooling system against corrosion. It guarantees full operation of the cooling system in winter and also increases the boiling point at high outside temperatures and under heavy loads. Initial Filling in Factory The factory fills the cooling system for protection against freezing, for the U.S. and Canada, down to -34°F (-37°C). This means an antifreeze ratio of 50% antifreeze and 50% water. In severely cold areas, the antifreeze can be increased to 60% which provides freezing protection down to -62°F (-52°C). Do not exceed a 60% ratio of antifreeze. The specified antifreeze ratio is important, since an insufficient amount would impair antifreezing and corrosion inhibiting protection. An excessive amount would not improve freezing protection, but instead reduce freezing protection. Change Intervals Regular checking of coolant concentration is part of Inspection I or II. Refer to applicable Model Year Service Maintenance Checklist for change intervals. Remarks and Limitations Only tap water of drinking quality with the following properties may be used as coolant. Appearance — colorless, clear Residue — without suspended matter pH value — 6.5 - 8.0 Total hardness — max. 357 PPM Calcium Carbonate Chloride content — max. 100 mg/l Sulfate content — max. 100 mg/l The antifreeze concentration in a cooling system should be checked before the beginning of winter. When determining the mixture concentration it is important to make sure that there is sufficient protection against freezing. A hydrometer (radiator antifreeze tester) is required for correct determination of antifreeze concentration. The composition of long-term antifreezes and corrosion inhibitors differs between manufacturers. BMW Anti-Freeze/Coolant contains no nitrites or phosphates and has been formulated to prevent excessive silicate dropout. Order the 1gallon container under BMW Part No. 82 14 1 467 704. Note: Do not mix BMW Anti-Freeze/Coolant with different antifreezes which contain nitrites and/or phosphates and a high silicate formulation. 2.0 Coolant Additives No aftermarket coolant additives, including but not limited to those which provide additional corrosion inhibition or seal off minor leaks are approved by BMW. Use of non-approved coolant additives may cause reduced heat transfer from the cylinder head to the coolant and the formation of hot spots. This can cause the burning through of cylinder head gaskets and/or cracking of the cylinder head. BMW NA cannot accept the liability for the resulting effects and consequential damage caused by the use of coolant additives.
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Dec 9, 2010 00:39
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Saw an E30 with an 'Alpina' badge on the left of the trunk and '323i' on the right. It definitely had Alpina B6-style wheels. Was this some kind of special appearance package, or is it just some jackass slapping on wheels and a fake badge? I worked on BMWs for several years, but the only real Alpina cars I've seen in person were the Z8 and the B7. Needless to say, I'm not an Alpina expert. However, I'm going to go with the fake badge option.
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Jan 19, 2012 19:00
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Sterndotstern posted:Also, the diff and trans fluids on E46s are "lifetime" (and thus has never been changed at 125k mi) so I would consider spending a couple hundred bucks having the dealership or a good independent mechanic do the diff fluid, transmission fluid and oil for you to start off with. 90% of shops I know do a basic Inspection I as a matter of course during an oil change (to drum up more work) so that is an excellent starting point. When I was working at a dealership, we always changed the diff fluid on non-warranty inspection IIs. Then again, we charged 5 hours labor (plus more for parts/fluids) for someting that could be done in an hour.
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Feb 2, 2012 21:35
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