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No doubt, you're talking to someone who owns two and a half e30s. There's legitimate reasons to prefer an e30. Cheaper initial cost, look cooler, lighter, handle different (more fun), a bit less complicated to work on. I listed the positives for e36 in the previous post. I just think that for the normal person looking to get a 3 series < $10k, the pros vs. cons almost always favor the e36. That may not be the case for someone that wants a semi-project, has multiple cars, or doesn't care about paying a mechanic every couple of months to fix odd things. And I think that segues very well to what I just discovered. This thread motivated me to go ahead and pull the valve cover, this is what I found: .JPG) Click here for the full 1024x768 image. I found this sitting where the red arrow is pointing in this picture:  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Otherwise things seem to look okay:  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. I suppose I may pull the timing chain cover later, but I think my next task is to figure out where that giant piece of metal came from (any ideas???) and probably pull the upper and lower oil pan.
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Nov 19, 2010 19:09
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 23:51 |
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^^^ I think they're reasonably reliable, with maintenance, in general. I think the main problem is BMW's assertion that the fluid is "lifetime" so often you find yourself doing the first tranny fluid change ever if you buy used. Especially since autos aren't typically "enthusiast" owned.Saga posted:Or part of the guide rail 6?  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. You were, indeed, correct kind gentlemanly sir. What pray tell could have caused this ghastly abomination? I'm sorry. I have no idea why I was typing like that. But seriously. At least I can sort of rule out upper oil pan gasket. I have no idea what in the God drat gently caress I'm doing right now, oh my God, I'll never get this thing back together. Oh God. I can't stop taking more and more things apart.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Okay, looks like I'll be removing the timing chain. I'm cheap, should I replace all the rails? or rails and chain? Ugh.
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Nov 21, 2010 04:37
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Very informative. The thing is, looking at the sprockets, they seem very sharp (vs virtually all the pictures I've seen online of people doing their timing chain job), and the timing chain cover was installed with RTV. This suggests to me that the chain has been replaced semi-recently. Does anyone disagree? Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. I would like to remove the chain only to allow me to install new chain guide rails but retain the existing (newerish? please correct me if I'm wrong) chain and sprockets.
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Nov 21, 2010 17:31
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Check it out. I finally picked up a set of Style 5s for the e46. I've always wanted them, and I found them on craigslist. They came with 255/40, which was crazy. I kept em on the back, and replaced the fronts with 225/45 and they sit perfect now. I'm really happy with the outcome. Whenever I'm done with these tires, I'm going to disassemble the wheels and polish them, but for now I'll ride em like this: Click here for the full 1963x1473 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
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Dec 2, 2010 21:54
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tesko.pk posted:Congrats, Style 5's are top-shelf IMO Thanks, actually I'm on the factory sport springs. I think that combined with the abnormally large tires (and almost no tire gap) on the back makes it look lower than it is. I was going to reply to your post earlier firstly with a compliment, but secondly with the most important question, why style5s for winter wheels??? Also thanks for the ECS tip. Last week I literally had that in my basket when it was full price, and eventually closed the tab wasn't motivated to do it later. I will now for sure. BraveUlysses posted:I'm a giant dick. Just kidding, yeah, I was skeptical about getting them for the e46. I will say that I totally disagree with you about style 5s on e36's. I don't think there's any wheel in the world that compliments the e36 better. To each his own. That said, I couldn't pass up the deal. I looked for pictures of e46s on style5s, almost couldn't find any coupes at all, and very few sedans. When I first put them on, I was slightly disappointed, and I thought they looked mediocre. After getting correct size tires in the front, I almost can't stop staring at the car. I should also mention that that first picture does make the offset look bad, but I can assure you that the factory reccomended tread fits totally under the fender, with no rub, or poke. To defend my position that there's no better wheel for e36's I submit:  Click here for the full 1024x681 image.  Click here for the full 900x600 image.  Click here for the full 720x477 image.  Click here for the full 1024x605 image. *drool*
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Dec 3, 2010 21:54
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! I also picked up a set, but im using them for winter right now, swapped the BMW Roundels with BBS center caps [
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Taco Box posted:I wanted bbses for my e46 coupe until I saw those pics. Haha, like any Bangle product, you'd just have to see it in real life to appreciate it. Also, it may take years before it doesn't look ugly. One day you'll all see. I've had my car for I think two years now, and never ever been approched by anyone about it (unlike my e30s). I put the style 5s on, and already asked at a stop light about them, and at a gas station "nice car." I also think they make tesko.pk look really slick, and I don't typically like the look of e46 sedans at all. They were cheaper than getting new tires for my stock style 68 ///////M wheels, which I think really age the car. Either way, my next car will be a 318ti(to motor swap) or z3 coupe (whichever I can find first), which is what I really bought them for anyway, so destructo will likely get his way. Ya'll are crazy
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Dec 4, 2010 04:13
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wolrah posted: The real reason I came here to post though was: I live in Florida. This is happening. What do I do? An interior shop told me to just "buy new panels." But I think he's crazy. I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to salvage the material, clean the surfaces, and reapply, or if the interior guy was right. Observe:  
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Mar 8, 2011 22:37
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squirrelBitten posted:I went to take a look at this e30 325e today: Those are not es seats, and even if they were, the es does not really command a higher price. Depending on mileage, I would be very hard pressed to pay more than a dime over $2000 out the door, and I think that's higher than most people would respond in this thread. I say $2000 because looks clean, rust free, and apparently "enthusiast" owned (sticker and M-tech steering wheel swap.) That said, for $2000, I think I would buy it, depending on mileage. Unfortunately they won't sell it for that, and any more than that you're being ripped. They want to finance a quarter century old car that says "BMW". Some schmuck will do it, and if the dealership's really lucky, they'll default on the financing, and they'll get to sell it again.
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Mar 14, 2011 06:41
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oRenj9 posted:Thanks for the great replies everyone. I just have a few more questions about the sub-frame issue. You can get under the car and look where the subframe mounts to the chassis. The subframe isn't actually the problem, typically. It's usually the sheet metal on the chassis where the subframe is bolted that tears. I've attached a particularly obvious tear below. I would estimate reinforcement would cost >$1000. 
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Mar 30, 2011 15:38
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Some may remember the ticking coming from my engine (on my 1991 318is): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfOT8Ru7gLs which then revealed itself to be a broken guide rail:  which lead me to do a leak down test (this is recent): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mrj0qAATNlc (I put a small amount of oil to see where the leaks were coming from) which lead me to disassemble my engine a couple days ago:  which brings me to this point:  valves piston I now sort of don’t know what to do. It seems clear that the intake valves leak quite a bit. Is this something that can be cured with a valve grinding possibly? If I do perform a valve grinding, do I have to “rebuild” the head, as in replace guides/seals etc? Does this head look like it’s economically beyond rebuilding? (link to leaky intake valve video again) Does it look as if the pistons significantly made contact with the valves? (It doesn’t seem so to me, also the side that *looks* like it made contact, is actually the exhaust side, which doesn't seem to be leaking, if that's a clue.) If it helps, on visual inspection, none of the valves appear to be bent or affected at all. It just seems like a lot of grit? or uneven surface around the entirety of the valve/valve seat. Does this seem like too much for a simple valve grind? I need advice bad. Anything anyone can offer would be very nice. What should I do from here as far as the head is concerned? All help is much appreciated. I need to get this drat thing back on the road.
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May 14, 2011 17:44
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Beach Bum posted:Ah, I remember when I was like this... Oh God. Really on the lifters though? My Excel sheet looks like this now: Price Descripion Part # $66.50 Timing chain 11311247160 $6.15 Upper timing cover gasket set 11141721919 $10.24 Lower timing cover gasket set 11141721802 $4.76 Front profile gasket 11141247837 $48.84 Crankshaft sprocket 11211247338 $77.96 Tensioner guide rail 11311727342 $77.20 Camshaft sprockets (x2) 11311721887 $14.58 Front crankshaft oil seal 11141439570 $3.25 Thermostat housing gasket 11531721172 $43.52 Guide rail 11311247470 $40.00 Head Gasket 11121721546 $55.25 Water Pump 11510393338 $13.75 Cylinder Head Bolt Set 11121721939 =$462 (I already have gaskets not listed) If I add $17.25 for all valve lifters 11321734341, I'd be well over $700, which doesn't include any resurfacing or parts cleaning, or unforeseen stuff, or stuff I forgot to list. It literally would be much cheaper (and easier?) for me to buy an e36 parts car, and swap engine/tranny. How about just retainers, and grind valves, and resurface? If not, I'm going to start looking at m50\52s or just selling the car as is.
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May 14, 2011 20:18
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^^ there hasn't been a man tran 7 series since 2001, and even then, I've never actually SEEN or heard of a manual trans in a 7 series of any era (although they do exist, somewhere). On the top of page 212 I asked about what I really *need* to replace in order to get my m42 head in working order. It was recommended that I replace the valve retainers. Is there any reason why? Sure, they don't seem to cost very much, but what does replacing them actually accomplish? In other words, why can't I reuse the retainers I took off? On another note, I discovered that at least one of the valves which I have removed so far is subtlety bent (first cylinder, exhaust valve). It's cool if I only replace the bent valve(s), right? Thanks everyone for walking me through this. Pimpsolo fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Jun 6, 2011 |
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Jun 6, 2011 01:43
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Motronic posted:I think he's saying that luxobarges don't lend themselves to the kind of fun a manual transmission is typically desired for. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmToVCkuf_8&feature=related Looks mighty fun to me! Maybe more fun than a tiny car with an automatic. I think the argument usually goes "if you're looking for something luxurious, you 'don't care about driving,' in fact, you'd want to be as far removed from feeling like you're driving as possible." The problem I see with either of these arguments is that I think I'd prefer a manual in any car ever and I can't really think of any exceptions... It keeps me more occupied, less likely to talk on a cell phone or do some other distracting things. I'm subtly less bored. I pay more attention to driving. Less expensive to fix. It also just plain *looks right* to see a shifter in a car. Also, whether it's good practice or not, I like to sit in neutral at stop lights, rather than keep my foot on the brakes. Why, in car chase scenes in most movies do they always cut to the driver's hand shifting gears? Because it's *coool*. And especially with a v12, I can't imagine at WOT, it wouldn't be just as, if not more  These are all factors that aren't related to any actual performance or "fun" benefits, which I think, in street driving are reduced to about 1-5% total driving time, even in, say, a Lotus (as opposed to a "luxobarge"). You're typically on straight roads, in traffic, at stop lights, and even when you take turns, you may do so aggressively if no one is in front of you, and you happen to have a green light, but did your manual gear selection really make that turn *that much more fun*? It may? I don't think that's why I drive manual tranny cars though. I think I mostly drive them because its cool to shift gears, and that entertains me to no end, even alone on an empty, straight road. 
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Jun 6, 2011 17:46
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SO, can I put the old 1 series bumpers on this, thus eliminating the saggy door line, and squinty Southpark Hitler front to make one decent looking car? (and I suppose, one super terrible looking car.)
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Jun 6, 2011 20:46
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Got a little question here. I'm about ready to put my head back on, and I was looking at pictures of other m42s at TDC, and noticed that pretty much every other picture of other people's blocks their pistons were in the opposite pattern than mine when at TDC. Is this a cause for concern? I'm using a flywheel TDC lock pin, and the cams were at TDC before I removed the head, and the car ran before I removed the head. Here's some pics: My block:  Someone else's (of many) on Google images:  My head and freshly powder coated stuff that wants to go back on: 
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Jan 24, 2012 20:08
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I believe I "determined" TDC when the TDC pin fit into the flywheel, and the cams were at TDC. This is mainly because I could never fit the flywheel pin in while using the mark on the crank pulley to get TDC that way. So I just turned the motor until the TDC pin fit into the flywheel, when that happened I saw the cam sprocket arrows were both pointing up and proceeded to remove the head. If I recall, I turned the motor several times to make sure there wasn't TWO flywheel holes or something, because the crank pulley arrow never ever lined up when the flywheel pin fit in.
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Jan 24, 2012 20:45
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Thanks! Now one more teeny tiny request. The one last little hangup I have is, I can't identify where this was supposed to go, eek. Anyone know where that washer bolt cover thingie goes?
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Jan 25, 2012 01:51
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I'm just about to put the head back on my m42 and of course I had to get the cams to TDC. I've never done anything like this before and am trying to figure out if this looks right. In the picture below, note that the exhaust and intake valves are slightly open on cylinder 2 and 3 respectively. Does that look right for TDC, or have I messed up somehow?
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May 17, 2012 00:45
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Yeahhhh. The markings on the cams are correctly up (I'm unaware of markings on the head?). And yes, motor is at TDC, and the corresponding pistons are down. I guess I was just freaking out. Alright, I'm putting it on now.
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May 17, 2012 00:58
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I thought you all might be interested to see that I have finished my 318is project, which involved a skipped timing chain tooth because of failed chain guides, which bent several valves: Before:  During:  After:  I was pretty shocked that it started and ran since this was my first time rebuilding a head or doing anything of this magnitude. After a week or two of testing, everything seems to be running perfect. I'm really happy! I really didn't have much of a choice to finish, since I needed to clear the garage out so I could do this:  But that's a story for another post.
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Aug 26, 2012 06:27
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Can anyone explain to my why my 2007 Z4 3.0si coupe has a center wheel bore of 74.0mm? I just bought a set of CSL wheels with a 72.5mm center bore because according to every source I can possibly find, the Z4 is supposed to have a 72.5mm center bore, but mine has 74.0mm. Now I'm in a debate as to whether I should order new drive flanges (33416752381) and wheel hubs (31226757024) but I don't know if they'll come 72.5mm or 74.0mm. Why in the world is my center wheel bore 74.0mm?
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Sep 11, 2013 14:54
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 23:51 |
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Cakefool posted:Wouldn't it be cheaper to get the wheels altered? It may be. This is what I'm trying to weigh. Also if I have the wheels modified, they won't fit most BMWs anymore without hub centric rings. Plus, if it costs $150 to modify the wheels, or $250 for new drive flanges and hubs, at least I'm sort of "upgrading" to new parts. I'm just afraid the new parts will be the same despite every source I can find claiming I'm supposed to have 72.5mm instead of 74.0mm.  BraveUlysses posted:Are these replica wheels? Seems strange that your hub bore doesn't match what it should be on the vehicle. Did you measure with a caliper? They are replica wheels however I have confirmed that they are the same center bore as another set from an e46. Finally, I did use a caliper. I still wish I knew why my car seems to have the incorrect 74.0mm size. Am I just going to have to order new drive flanges and wheel hubs from Advanced and see if they're right? Pimpsolo fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 03:24
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