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3363 posted:Any more of these? I can't find any info on these events, this aspect of the BMW site is really confusing. BMW Canada was running these events across the country throughout April and May. Unfortunately, I think Montreal was the last one scheduled. If they were still running, simply accessing the 1-Series page on their website would have taken you straight to the sign-up for the test drive event.
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May 14, 2008 21:19
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kimbo305 posted:I don't know what to think about this: If BMW likes the idea, would they call it a Sports Activity Truck?
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Oct 9, 2008 09:12
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OxMan posted:E36 stuff I hear you. I've had largely the same results as you. It seems like every E36 advertised is either a total shitheap, is owned by some idiot balla try-hard or is an automatic. Or for even more entertainment, it'll be an outright scam. I've pretty much exhausted every E36 listed in Alberta; I'm starting to wonder if I'm going to need to look out east or in the States. Any Ontario goons willing to comment on the availability of 5-speed, non-convertible, 2-or 4-door 325s and 328s out there? Kijiji and Autotrader seem to have a few, but those two sites aren't exactly the best sources, in my experience. MrChips fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Mar 18, 2009 |
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Mar 18, 2009 04:47
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change my name posted:would it just be cheaper to get it turned into a convertible? No. change my name posted:Is it even possible? Not really. change my name posted:My friend's ex jumped on top of her 99 5-series and crumpled the top. If it can be proven, tell her to take this dink to small claims court to cover the cost.
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Apr 4, 2009 02:12
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Wicaeed posted:I'm willing to bet this topic has been covered many times before, but god help me I can't run through 60 pages of replies E46 M3s are fairly reliable, but there are areas that require some special attention over and above a regular 3-Series. Although not as bad as the E36s, the rear subframe mounts are a weak spot, so make sure you get a good look at them before buying. The S54 engine is reasonably solid - early M3s had a multitude of issues with bottom end bearings, but this was confined to early cars (pre-'03) and should be long since rectified by the dealer. The engine is extremely picky in terms of engine oil - it takes 10w-60 synthetic, which is fairly expensive (especially if you can't find it anywhere other than the dealership), but then again, spending a bit on your oil will save you an expensive top-end rebuild. Speaking of the top end, this engine uses solid valve lifters, so they require periodic adjustment. As for the rest of the car, the other issues are similar to other 3ers, only with parts costing about two or three times as much, especially brake and suspension parts. My advice is for you to shop around very carefully, as it seems as though a large number of these cars have been abused by total morons. Even if it cost you a few thousand more, it's worth getting a well-maintained M3, as dealing with the long-term effects of abuse can be very expensive. Oh, and if you can drive it, get a manual - the SMG is pretty terrible, IMO. EDIT: Having put some thought into it, I wouldn't actually recommend for you to get an E46 M3. For largely the same kind of money as a good example, you can get a brand new 135i, a car that has 95% of the E46 M3's performance, but with the added advantage of being under warranty. Overall, a 135 would likely be a far better ownership experience. MrChips fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Apr 14, 2009 |
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Apr 14, 2009 20:02
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havelock posted:'04s and even some '05s can be had for low 30s, according to m3forum. There's no way to get a 135 for that cheap unfortunately. If you shop around, you can get into a new 135 for about 36-38k US (here in Canada, probably about 42k or so). The question you need to ask yourself is this; is a warranty and "free" maintenance worth the extra money? Sure, 6k is quite a bit of money, but over the four year duration of the warranty, the total cost advantage will likely tilt toward the 135. The only X-factor is the level of depreciation of the 135 over that time; initial indications suggest it will be better than average, both for BMWs and for the market segment in general.
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Apr 15, 2009 01:53
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Sanctum posted:I just have to whine for a moment about how ugly these new Z4's are compared to the original E85's. Apparently BMW didn't like the original sleek and simple design because it was somehow too 'girly' for the BMW image. Now they go with this goofy wide-body look complete with unnecessary side-scoops behind the engine. From what I gather, BMW have decided to target the car at someone looking to buy a Merc SLK, rather the consumer looking to buy a Porsche Boxster. As such, it's gained weight, a power hardtop and a bunch of other things blonde trophy wives demand  And if you think that's bad, just check out the price of the new one compared to the old...
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May 25, 2009 02:04
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So unless someone buys the twin-turbo package the car is actually a downgrade compared to older models. And acceleration aside, extra mass affects all aspects of handling. I can only imagine what 10 ~ 20% more mass means to the responsiveness of the new Z4.
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Flavorite posted:I figured this was the spot to ask a BMW question. The 335d sedan has been available in North America for some time now - a bout a year or so, if my memory serves me correctly. The only thing is that it hasn't been selling all that well, as it is pretty close to the most expensive variant of the 3-Series sedan on the market. Combined our perception that diesel engines are still unacceptably noisy and smoky and with fuel prices that favour gasoline instead of diesel, you can see why there aren't that many 335ds on the road today.
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Mar 2, 2010 21:47
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Sterndotstern posted:E36 stuff What about the rear subframe issues? I will concede that it's a rare occurrence (especially in non-M E36s) but I would want to make damned sure that the mount points aren't tearing/torn before I buy a car, seeing as it would be a couple grand to fix if you aren't good with a welder.
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Dec 14, 2010 21:00
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Xenoid posted:So buy one in the USA there is no reason to purchase a car in Canada if you can help it. the only problem is that BMW Canada is incredibly loving irritating to deal with in terms of importing a car, new or used. Between their requirement that all federalisation work must be done at one of their dealerships ($$$) and the hassle that they will put you through for recall clearance paperwork (yet more $$$), it almost isn't worth it. By getting the PO to get the recall clearance, you can avoid that problem, but you can't avoid the dealership. MrChips fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Jan 7, 2011 |
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Jan 7, 2011 00:41
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McDeth posted:
If you can wait until summer, spend an extra few thousand and get a 1 Series M coupe. That is, if you can a) find one, and b) get it without any dealer markups.
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Jan 12, 2011 03:41
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Watching the 24 Hours of Daytona; that 1-Series M Coupe pace car makes a pretty nice sound...way better than the stock 135. Makes me wonder how long I could subsist on dog food alone.
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Jan 29, 2011 22:40
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Beach Bum posted:I have seen it in person and I still say it's hideous Apart from those ghastly wheels, absolutely nothing...I just can't see why anyone would want to replace the stock Style 40s. I almost bought a silver 2001 Z3M coupe a year or so ago; unfortunately, something came up and I was unable to make it down to Arizona to complete the sale.
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Mar 21, 2011 03:27
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VibrioCholera posted:Is this a cheap / easy fix? My E46 M3 does this exact same thing. I just figured it to be the blower motor or something. It still works great after a couple minutes. You can get an OEM FSR for about $100 or so; depending on how nimble your fingers are, it can take between 30 minutes and 3 hours to replace. It is fairly straightforward, from what I gather, just really, really confined.
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Mar 25, 2011 00:18
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oRenj9 posted:I'm looking at a 99 328iS coupe, and I have a few questions. First off, did the E36 body styles carry over into 1999 for the coupes? The OP doesn't say they did, but I thought that was the case. I'm just trying to determine if the year is a fat-finger on the part of the person that put up the ad or an omission from the thread. As far as I know, the E36 coupe carried over into 1999; what I can't remember is whether or not BMW made it for a full year or only part of a year before switching to the E46. As for servicing, 90k miles is about when anything that is a wear item would be due for replacement. The cooling system (which is just as bad in the E36 as it is in the E46), brakes and suspension components (including all the bushings and rear strut mounts) are essentially at the end of their service lives. Nothing here is difficult to do yourself, but added together, you're probably looking at about $2500 in parts. Contraband or Sterndotstern will probably chime in here with a more detailed answer, so I'll leave it to them to explain further. MrChips fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Mar 30, 2011 |
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Mar 30, 2011 02:57
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Guinness posted:Okay, I'll admit that looks pretty slick. Upon further reading, I might actually consider spending ~$600 on something like that. The thing I like about the Dynavin is that it's designed to plug-and-play with the OEM wiring harness with no hassle. Just remember that unless you have factory NAV, you need to buy an HVAC relocation bracket, which is another $100 or so. Either way, I think it makes for a pretty nice update for the car.
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Apr 15, 2011 00:28
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Chim posted:hey guys, my 03 bmw 325i just crapped out and I'm looking to go for a new CPO. I have my eyes and budget set on a 2008 335i coupe CPO. Anything I should look out for /warning on not to purchase a e92 from this particular year? I need CPO because I need the reassurance... I must have put nearly 8k extra into my 325i since it fell out of warranty due to little things here and there, never again. How many months of the year are you willing to tolerate your 335i being in the shop for high-pressure fuel pump replacements? If your answer is "lots", you should be OK. If it isn't, consider getting a 328. Even though BMW has effectively covered this part under a lifetime warranty, it is still a huge hassle to deal with. Other than that, the 335 is pretty awesome. Also, don't fool yourself; CPO isn't the wonderful blanket warranty you think it is. At best, it is a very limited warranty that omits certain key components covered by a new car warranty; at worst, it is a blatant attempt to squeeze more out of the uninformed car buyer.
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May 10, 2011 19:49
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I've noticed that nobody waves at me when I make room for them in my BMW...I don't know it it's the shock of a BMW driver actually being considerate to them, or if they still can't get over the stereotype. Also, here's a shot of my car:  2002 330Ci in about the most standard colour combination possible (silver/black), with a manual gearbox. It's got only 62,000 miles on it, and apart from some minor cosmetic stuff (rock chips, a door ding and the hood badge), it is as perfect as a car this old can be. Mechanically, it's about that good too; it should get some new FCABs in the not too distant future (I can feel just a bit of play in them right now), and I should do the cooling system, brake fluid and transmission/diff oil at some point in the next few months as well. Other than that, I'm thrilled to bits with it.
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May 21, 2011 03:34
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Guinness posted:This car is an absolute joy to drive. The handling, feeling, and precision are just top-notch - and that's a big compliment coming from a good condition NA Miata (discounting things like road noise and comfort, of course). And soooo much faster. I love it. Your car looks pretty sharp. I've had my '02 330Ci for about a week and a bit longer than yours, and your impressions basically sum up the way I feel about mine. I absolutely love the ride in these cars more than anything else - the perfect balance between firmness and compliance.
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May 24, 2011 04:39
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rscott posted:I don't necessarily care if the car was taken to a licensed BMW dealer, I just want receipts or something that says the oil was changed roughly on time, wear items in the suspension have been done fairly recently or at all, etc. Every idiot in the world seems to have an E30...be a badass and buy an E24, cost be damned.
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May 27, 2011 22:23
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Here's a question; I was discussing my car with my father earlier in the week, and the discussion touched on how many E46s BMW made in total. I tried Googling, but all I found was the total number of E46s sold in 2002 (561,000!), and approximate number of E46 M3s built (roughly 44,000). Does anyone have a better idea how many E46s were made? Actually, it would be interesting to see the numbers for the other models as well.
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Jun 4, 2011 22:43
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Guinness posted:Just filled up my tank for the third time since I've owned my 330, and for the third time the car nailed its own MPG calculation down to the decimal point compared to the manual trip odo/gallons filled calculation. I'm super impressed, especially since each tank was very different driving styles. I've filled my car up four times now and I've averaged 8.2 L/100 km across all four fills, which is 28.6 mpg. Granted, most of my driving is on the highway, but I don't have the luxury of an overdrive sixth gear in my transmission either. That said, I don't think my next fill is going to be anywhere near as good; I took the car out to a trackday on Monday, put on jointly by the local BMW club and the two BMW dealers in town. It was mostly an instructional session, but we still got to put in a number of hot laps on the track. I am totally blown away at just how high the limits of my car are; suffice it to say, they're much higher than my own personal limits. I also got a chance to drive an X6M...what a mind-altering experience that was. A vehicle that tall and that heavy shouldn't be able to go that fast or corner that well.
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Jun 8, 2011 21:49
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Crustashio posted:This is interesting. That is maybe a bit much; if you can make the trip to Alberta or BC, you can find a pile of E39 540s (both auto and manual) of a similar age and mileage for probably $13k. KaiserBen posted:I bet you could find an M5 in that price range without too much more work. They're a fair bit more expensive to maintain, but the extra 120hp and better suspension do make a difference. Unfortunately, we can't do that well here in Canada. The absolute cheapest E39 M5 I've ever seen listed was for $21k, and it was in pretty poor shape. $25-27k would get you a decent example up here. Unfortunately, BMW Canada makes importing a car from the US a huge pain in the rear end; by the time you pay tax, duty and spread your cheeks at the dealership, you've spent as much as a similar car would cost here.
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Jun 23, 2011 19:50
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Nitr0 posted:Sorry man, this is just flat out wrong. Oh? Until I had a stroke of luck and found my E46 330Ci, I was actively shopping in the States, mostly in the Bay Area. For a car with the options, age and mileage I wanted, the going price was about $11k or so. Now even though we are better than parity, the bank will still want their 2-4% on the exchange. At the border, you need to pay the RIV fee ($195) , A/C excise ($100), a 6.1% duty on your purchase price (unless you're buying a NAFTA-assembled BMW), plus GST/HST/PST on all of that (including the duty) as they apply at the border crossing. Then, you need to federalise the car; this must be done at a BMW dealership. For the 330Ci example, it would have cost roughly $1500, assuming everything else is in working order. Then, they need to issue a recall clearance letter, which can be up to $6000, depending on the age and model of the car (for a 2002 330Ci, it would have been an additional $800). All of a sudden, that $11,000 330Ci has cost you north of $15,000 all up, which is a few thousand more than I paid for my local car. MrChips fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jun 23, 2011 |
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Jun 23, 2011 21:24
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Nitr0 posted:
No HST in Alberta, we only pay GST. The issue comes when you compare buying a car from a private individual here in Canada. When I registered the car, the registry office did not collect GST from me. If I bought a car in the States, even if it was from a private individual, I would have had to pay GST. Nitr0 posted:This was just plain not doing your homework. If your car has daytime running lights (selectable through idrive on mine) and it has metric on the spedo then it's Canadian ready. There is no need for a cluster change, there is no need for re-programming, nothing. BMW will try to push anything they can onto you including swapping the dash cluster out for the "only Canadian approved cluster" for 2k and a couple hours of re-programming to ensure your DRL's are on! Read the RIV website, it tells you specifically what needs to be done on a car. Don't trust BMW. The recall clearance letter is also just a BMW sham. You can ask for a warranty inquiry letter from any us BMW dealership. On the top and bottom of the pages there is a message that says in big bold red lettering "NOT TO BE USED FOR IMPORT OR EXPORT PURPOSES" but you don't give a poo poo about that. Run that through Acrobat 9 and boom, text is gone. RIV accepted mine the same day. Free. The federalisation work and recall clearances are issued at a dealer level. As we've all come to experience, there are dealerships who will treat you fairly, as well as dealerships who will try to take you every dollar they can get away with. Unfortunately, the BMW dealers here in Calgary tend to be the latter. The issue is that because BMW demands to do all the work themselves, they can really take you to the cleaners, as they are entirely within their right to deny federalisation to a car, according to the letter of the law. It's not very ethical and it might not even stand up to a legal challenge, but that's the way it is, and they know it. When they first came out, I was looking to buy a 135i, as I was rather flush with cash, and with the Canadian dollar reaching prime at the time, there were some screaming deals to be had buying a car in the States. I could have had a brand new 135i across the border for less than $40k, which would have been several thousand less (and well within my budget at the time) than if I bought here in Canada. Unfortunately, all the dealerships at the time knew of people doing this, and decided to make the process not only extremely difficult, but so expensive that you might as well buy the car here. Where I got that $6000 for the recall clearance letter was a quote from the local dealership at the time. Beyond that, there was still the unresolved issue of warranty; once again, this was about the time they decided they were no longer going to honour US warranties. After arguing and wrangling with both the dealership and BMW Canada for several days, I called up the dealer in Seattle and cancelled my order - there were just too many roadblocks, financial and otherwise, put in my path.
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Jun 24, 2011 22:07
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rawrr posted:From my understanding, you can get the recall letter from any dealership - doesn't have to be local. That's true, but at the time, just about every dealer in Canada was doing the same thing; many of them didn't even want to talk to me about helping to import a new car period.
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Jun 25, 2011 05:55
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Even though summer has just begun, I've started looking around for a second set of wheels for my E46 330Ci, so that I can run a set of summer and winter tires. The car has the standard 17" Style 79s with Continental all-seasons mounted. Since these tires are fairly close to the end of their life, I'm thinking I'm going to use the Style 79s for my winter wheels, and use the new set for summer tires. I've browsed through Tire Rack and I've got to say, I'm not really a big fan of the wheels they have on offer; the vast majority of their offerings are garish as all hell (and I don't want to spend BBS or HRE money). Further complicating things is that I've come across a local classified ad for a set of essentially new (less than 100 km) 17" BMW Style 338 wheels from an E9x. My questions are thus: 1) Will the Style 338 wheels fit OK in my car? My current wheels are 7x17" ET-47s, while the 338s would be 8x17" ET-34s (bolt pattern is the same, obviously). The inside clearance should be the same; it's that extra inch on the outside of the rim that I'm wondering about. 2) Since these wheels are designed for TPMS and my car doesn't have TPMS monitoring, can a tire shop correct for the weight of the absent sensor so that I can run with normal valve stems? Alternatively, if any of you guys have a better idea, I'm open to suggestions.
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Jun 30, 2011 04:39
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Depending on what you're looking for, https://getbmwparts.com, which is basically an online store front for BMW of Silver Spring's parts department, can actually be cheaper than Pelican or the others.
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Jul 16, 2011 16:46
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Well, today was the hottest day of the year. What did I notice happened to my E46 coupe when I got into it after being parked outside all day? If you guessed "lol the door edge trim sagged", you're right! I figure I'm going to reglue it once, but after that, I'm just going to cut it all off. Like it is already on the driver's side.
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Jul 19, 2011 00:20
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Lowclock posted:Don't glue it. Pull it off, clean the pinch weld and the inside of the rubber with alcohol or some other good non-residue cleaner, and if it's like some of them, you can lay it flat and wack it with a hammer and a piece of wood to make the little gap flatter and tighter. It shouldn't come off again. The rubber part of the trim isn't coming down; the mousefur inner piece is sagging, like this (not my image):  Is it still not a good idea to glue that bit back up? I can't see why it wouldn't be, as it appears to have been glued (badly) from the factory.
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Jul 19, 2011 02:10
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rawrr posted:Whatever glue you decide to use, I found it helpful/essential to buy at least two clamps to hold it in place as the glue dries. Works much better than trying to masking tape it down. I ended up going with marine goop because that stuff is supposed to withstand high temperatures. I used some urethane glue for my repair; so far, so good. I didn't clamp it together - I just used strips of wide masking tape every few inches. I also taped it in such a way that closing the door tightened the new glue joint.
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Jul 19, 2011 20:19
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Keyser S0ze posted:The brakes are a relatively easy DIY and not very expensive for stock rotors. The stock rotors are good, but don't use stock pads. While they work just fine, they make an insane amount of dust. Seriously, my wheels are caked with that poo poo after only a week.
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Jul 31, 2011 21:39
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Here's a question that isn't quite as straightforward as it first seems: How do you guys jack up your E46s? On early (pre-2001) models and on the M3, there is a central jack point at the front of the car, so it isn't much of an issue with those cars. On later non-M3 models, however, there is a stamped, oval-shaped pad in the reinforcement plate instead. Mike Miller (of Roundel and Bimmer Tech Q & A) recommends using that as a jack point, but there are a lot of people who instead say to use two jacks on the forward rocker panel jack points, as its possible you'll crush the pad lifting the car (which I'm not keen on doing). Doing it this way not only requires two jacks, but it also makes placing jack stands a bit of an issue. The rear isn't an issue, obviously; just get underneath and jack up from the axle carrier in front of the diff (and not by the diff itself).
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Aug 16, 2011 02:46
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I...I don't know if I can like any of you guys now. The Clownshoe is the best BMW ever, apart from the 3.0 CS. I almost bought an S54-powered example before I remembered that I was looking for a daily driver.
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Aug 18, 2011 01:51
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Crustashio posted:Time to play the "What the gently caress kind of noise is my engine making?" game. I'm getting a horrible noise coming from the engine on my ZHP when any throttle is applied. It sounds to me like you might have an air leak in the intake.
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Sep 13, 2011 01:22
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Goon posted:Not much of a car guy, but I've always had a hard-on for bmw body lines, and I'm interested in buying a car. It'll be used, and I'm prioritizing fuel economy, low initial cost, and reliability over peppy pickup, though honestly I just want a sexy, shiny piece of motorized metal to cart my rear end to work this winter. If you want cheap to run and reliable, a BMW doesn't really fit those criteria all that well. Parts are more expensive in most cases than a Honda or a domestic (though not by as much as you might expect). More importantly, BMWs require a more proactive attitude towards maintenance; just putting gas and oil in isn't enough. The attitude I take to mine is that I would rather spend some money maintaining the car properly as opposed to spending a lot of money fixing something broken. If that doesn't scare you off, get a 3-Series; they have proven consistently to be the most reliable of the BMW lineup. In the years you've expressed interest in, you're looking at late E30s and early E36s. Both are fine cars in their own right, but they're not without their pitfalls...chief among them being that 99% of E30s are grossly overpriced (for reasons I don't fully understand; I've never been a big fan of the E30), and 99% of E36s of that age are being abused by the hats-front-to-back crowd. As for mechanical issues, give this thread a good read...it's pretty much the best single source of BMW information I've seen online.
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Sep 21, 2011 01:50
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ExecuDork posted:I wasn't disappointed by the acceleration, handling, speed, or anything else about the 1994 318is I test drove, though of course I'm not arguing it's anything other than a slow car by the standards of the rest of what BMW makes. According to Wikipedia, this 1995 318ti hatchback has the same engine - is there anything about the hatchbacks that makes them much worse or just significantly different from the coupe or sedans? Well, 3 Compacts look terrible, for one.  Also, they don't drive or ride as nice as their bigger brothers. Some of that is down to the shorter wheelbase, but also because the E36 Compact borrows a lot from the E30 underneath. Compared to the normal E36, the E30's (and by extension, the E36 Compact) suspension is pretty primitive, and it kind of shows in terms of ride and handling.
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Sep 21, 2011 04:23
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^^^I would agree on the E24 6-Series, as well as the so-called "New Six" cars (like the one in the picture). That said, all BMWs made between the New Six models and the E30, E32 and E34 had the shark-nose to a certain extent.8ender posted:Shark nose BMWs persisted until the E30 and E34. The latter finished up in 1995. I dont think you can really qualify the ones after that as shark nose. Even the E30 and E34 had a pretty shallow nose. I would say that both the E30 and E34 were the first modern BMWs not to have the shark-nose.
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Sep 26, 2011 21:28
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Prefect Six posted:I hope this doesn't stray into 'recommend me a car' territory, but a older guy I work with is selling his 2003 M5. He says he wants $20k for it. It has 60k miles and seems to be in otherwise great condition. The guy who owns it is a very nice guy and would have taken very good care of the car. Not sure when he bought it. Keep in mind that between 60k and 100k miles, virtually every wear item in the car is going to come due for replacement, no matter how well it has been maintained before. Not just small things like brake pads, but big things like shocks, springs and all the bushings in your suspension. Also, the clutch is likely due for replacement (IIRC, the E39 M5's clutch is good for only 80-100k miles). If you can do most of the work yourself, you'll save a lot of money, but understand you'd be paying a lot of M-Tax on the parts too.
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Sep 28, 2011 04:47
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Best just to avoid an SMG unless you have some cash... I think a pump alone is a couple grand at the dealer... possibly less... People say its not actually a terrible job to replace it. Beyond that, the SMG is slow-shifting, jerky at slow speeds and really dim-witted. Honestly, just spend the time and learn to use a manual transmission; get a friend with a manual car and an empty parking lot...I promise you that within half an hour, you'll have a pretty good idea what to do.
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Oct 12, 2011 00:34
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