|
Oh god dammit, the car I would have gotten were I a young professional with a real paying job. Being a teacher, I had to "settle" with a '97 M3. The only other car I would want more is an E34 M5 Touring ( 1 kid down, 1 to go) You replace the rotors on this beast yet? usurper posted:I've whored this car around a little on AI, but I'LL DO IT AGAIN:
|
#
¿
Apr 5, 2008 01:08
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 17:22 |
|
|
Pissingintowind posted:The "BMW" oil is Castrol Syntec 5W30. It's actually quite a bit cheaper at the dealership with the CCA discount than at AutoZone or Sears or anywhere else I could find. I pay around $4/quart. I've heard the Hawk's are good. I personally chose the Axxis XBG's. They seem to dust much less than stocks, not a very bad decrease in stopping power.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2008 04:08
|
|
|
Pissingintowind posted:Did you get your Axxis from this group buy on Bimmerforums by any chance? No, I didn't do a group buy. As for noise, I can't notice a difference between stock. I've never ran full ceramic on my pads, can't tell vs. the Hawk's.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 22, 2008 04:56
|
|
|
Pissingintowind posted:Wait, do you have an M? Because my stock pads are extremely noisy and dusty. Yes, I've got an M3. To be fair, when I changed the pads my suspension was so lovely I didn't notice the brake noise. That and my tires were nasty, so road noise was considerable in the slightest. Did notice the dust though, goddamn.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2008 02:10
|
|
|
miklm posted:Anybody replaced a front wheel bearing (full hub assembly obviously) on an E36? Do I really need a 46mm socket and 210 ft lbs of torque??? Yes and yes. Rent a torque wrench that goes to 250 lb-ft. My local AutoZone had one, 1/2" drive. Also, rent a three arm puller. The old hub assembly will probably come out, but the inner race tends to stick on the axle. The 46mm nut can also come off with a 1-13/16" socket, available at many more places than a 46mm (TSC Tractor Supply had one). You can use a 4" length of 1-1/2" pipe with some tape to get the new hub on the axle. Apply force to only the inner race.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2008 21:48
|
|
|
miklm posted:210 ft lbs means "as hard as you can f'ing hammer it down" in the miklm service manual so I'm not worried about the torque wrench. David's big one might go that high anyway, if not its in the upper 100s so that plus an extra grunt should secure it. No prob, but I was surprised how high the 210 really was. For me, I had someone applying brakes with the wheel bolted back onto the hub. I was leaning on the torque wrench and pushing hard as hell for a good 30 secs. before I heard the click. I can't imagine what tightening a flywheel is like.
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2008 05:26
|
|
|
Anyone have any experiences with an E23? I like that body style, and I've always loved a 7 series. That was the last of the "not filled with electronic poo poo" big sedans that I can tell. Besides the obvious rust problem from any cars that have seen snow, would I be insane in a few years (~5 or less) trying for an E23 vs. a Town Car? But, what am I saying, who the hell knows how gas prices will be in 5 years. We might all be driving scooters by then.
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2008 04:33
|
|
|
Ok, I've been searching up and down for this but no finds. I've got a 97 M3 coupe. I had a Euro specialist repair shop check some suspension stuff (tie rid ends, control arms, RTABs, etc.). They replaced tires and driver's side tie rod end. I'm now told that my tires sit really badly, having huge amounts of negative camber (which I havem't been told how many degrees it is yet). So, they say I've got weird struts on (somehow my current struts are the correct BMW part #, but not the correct Sachs # according to their distributor). They want to order new struts and try them. If that doesn't fix my camber issue, then they want to notch the strut towers to make my old struts fit. Yep, cutting the metal in the strut tower and redrilling mounting holes. Does this reek of overkill for a small problem?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2009 05:57
|
|
|
I'm checking now to make sure. Dumb question, which way to the arrows need to point on the strut mount? I've had them going to the innermost hold (most towards engine)
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2009 17:33
|
|
|
Doctor Grape Ape posted:That would be your problem, they should point forward towards the headlights. Not only am I retarded, but so is the shop. "Yeah, they look like they're installed correctly."
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2009 17:49
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 17:22 |
|
|
I just got one of the biggest "gently caress you" moments I can have for an E36 M3. Took the car in to have the AC checked, the tech used a chemical sniffer to check for leaking 134 inside the cabin. Looks like the evaporator is leaking. This is on top of the compressor sounding noisy (but not squealing yet), which is likely a compressor clutch replacement. Has anyone done the evaporator job? I have the Bentley guide, but their descriptions are sometimes guilty of "installation is reverse of removal" syndrome.
|
|
#
¿
May 19, 2010 01:59
|
|