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Deteriorata posted:Acetone will dissolve superglue. You could try using a q-tip on the blotches to see if it helps. Interesting idea, but does that (further?) compromise food safety-ness of the cutting board?
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Apr 6, 2024 23:26
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alnilam posted:Has anyone built Rex Kruger's minimum timber bench? I'm finally thinking of upgrading from my current "clamp stuff to a chair or sawhorse" style to a proper workbench. I like his videos so I wouldn't mind tossing him $15 for the plans. I built another bench of his, would recommend. Between the videos and the plans, everything is explained pretty clearly. Count on making a tray on the bottom for the added weight, though. The bench I made wasn't heavy enough for really going at it while planing, and it was a fundamentally heavier design (though in fairness I shortened it a bit to fit in my garage).
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Apr 6, 2024 23:29
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You probably can get the blotches most of the way out (I.e. significantly better than what you have now) but probably not all the way out. Thin viscosity super glue gets sucked waaaay up into the wood in endgrain which is why it’s so useful but it also means it’s waaaay up in there. A cabinet scraper or block plane or better yet a belt sander is your best bet. Sanding end-grain hard maple and purpleheart or w/e that is will be extremely slow.
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Apr 6, 2024 23:31
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MetaJew posted:Interesting idea, but does that (further?) compromise food safety-ness of the cutting board? Superglue is food safe (once it's dried). Acetone leaves no residue. What food safety issues are you concerned about? Virtually all finishes are food safe once they're cured - they're huge inert polymers, and any fragments that chip off and get eaten just pass through without causing any problems.
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Apr 6, 2024 23:49
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Deteriorata posted:Superglue is food safe (once it's dried). Acetone leaves no residue. What food safety issues are you concerned about? Virtually all finishes are food safe once they're cured - they're huge inert polymers, and any fragments that chip off and get eaten just pass through without causing any problems. I had not thought much about what residue acetone could leave behind. I guess it is so volatile that it does evaporate pretty quickly. I took one of my widest, cheapo chisels and used it as a card scraper for a bit but now my hands hurt and there’s still more to go. I’ll have to see if any neighbors have a belt sander I could borrow. I’ve seen someone with several woodworking tools in their garage when walking the dog but I’ve never seen the owner to strike up a conversation.
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Apr 7, 2024 00:00
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My main bathroom is roughly 18 inches wider than the shower is long, so the previous owners boxed in the space next to the shower, and put the laziest possible shelves in there. Rough painted plywood screwed into vertical 2x4s (most of which are part of the wall it seems). It's almost 3 feet deep, about 1 foot wide, and you can knock things off the shelves into the gaps between the 2x4s. I figure I could improve upon the situation by putting in a pantry-style slide out shelf in there and make better use of the space. I've got roughly 11" x 32" x 60" to work with, so one of my main goals is to maximize the internal width. While I'm taking a lot of cues from pantry shelf design, it's not going to be carrying nearly as much weight, but I want to make sure it's not going to fall apart on me. It'll have 5 sides, with 3 or 4 evenly spaced shelves. Basically a bookshelf on slides. I'm not looking to build up a set of woodworking tools unless this project changes my mind, so I want to keep things pretty basic and use butt joints and pocket holes. The shelves will probably be fixed in position for rigidity, but this is part of why I'm posting: are there any guidelines for material thickness I should be using for the outer frame and shelves? I'm planning to use project panels or something similar for all this. rarbatrol fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Apr 7, 2024 |
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Apr 7, 2024 00:04
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I got the top half of my heron cabinet done. Well it was done a few weeks ago, I just finally took a picture of it, too large to get my photo backdrop out, it's just over 8' tall. Kaiser was correct on the joinery. The shelves are joined via half laps, or maybe cross laps in this case. The uprights have dados cut on both sides, then the front half removed, the shelves have the back half removed. The main issue is the tiny piece left on the shelves was super weak, (the part with the arrow) I expected to snap maybe one or two off while fitting, but I ended up snapping off 9 out of 10. I used the snapped off area to drive a couple screws through the uprights into the shelf, then the snapped off piece was glued back on. The spot where it stayed attach got a pocket screw from the back as insurance, if there was a bit more overhang I'm sure I would have had less ends snapping. 
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Apr 7, 2024 01:25
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Leperflesh posted:there's a line where I think it gets stupid though, like festool-branded plastic boxes to store poo poo in, when you see some woodworker stacking those things up under their bench you know they've been guzzling the coolaid or have been sent thousands of dollars of free poo poo from festool because there's no third way where these are legit the best or a good value at all Note: in this case, those needs are portable A/V gear storage on the cheap, not woodworking. I don't get it for woodworking, if you have an in-place shop.
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Apr 7, 2024 05:49
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We recently figured out we'll be moving over the summer so my thirst for new projects is diminished until after we've lugged all our stuff. Close enough that I'll probably try and move the table saw rather than sell it and rebuy when we get there. Anyone in the Hampton Roads, VA area have opinions on hardwood/plywood dealers? Cygnus and Yukon both look pretty cool. Happy that Cygnus has a public price list unlike my current closest option, so I've at least got a benchmark for browsing other places.
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Apr 7, 2024 15:06
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I got the top half of my heron cabinet done. Well it was done a few weeks ago, I just finally took a picture of it, too large to get my photo backdrop out, it's just over 8' tall. This is so good. I just make furniture as a hobby, and I'm really still learning the skills, but I feel like I've been searching for something in furniture design for years without finding it. There are some pieces I love but nothing really hits exactly the heights I think furniture can. This cabinet though.. It's just so perfectly balanced in its simplicity, skilled craftsmanship, and art. To me it seems to have the presence of Zen Japanese construction. This is a very inspiring piece of furniture, thank you for posting it.
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Apr 9, 2024 04:10
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Any good way to get a chalk line off of BLO finished pine? I used chalk to align dog holes in my workbench and didn't realize how difficult it was going to be to clean off afterwards.
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Apr 9, 2024 18:04
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this may sound silly but have you tried slightly soapy water and a sponge?
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Apr 9, 2024 18:24
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I keep a spray bottle of water with a bit of dish soap added in my shop. I use it to lube the waterstone or diamond stone or sandpaper for sharpening, but it's also useful for a bunch of just mild cleaning issues too. Wet a rag for wiping off sawdust, for example. My rag box has old washcloths and those are good for kinda scrubbing at stuff very gently to not remove or damage finish. Wipe down a tool surface before lightly waxing. That kinda thing.
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Apr 9, 2024 18:35
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anyone here in the Baltimore area and looking to blow some money? Met a guy who's got a week to clear out his basement full of brand new Felder equipment, B3 Winner shaper/tablesaw for $5400, FB510 bandsaw for $2500, just eyeballing it each had about half that much in blades and accessories but dude doesn't have a real inventory he just kept pulling power feeders and poo poo out of the walls
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Apr 9, 2024 |
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Apr 9, 2024 20:44
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:anyone here in the Baltimore area and looking to blow some money? Met a guy who's got a week to clear out his basement full of brand new Felder equipment, B3 Winner shaper/tablesaw for $5400, FB510 bandsaw for $2500, just eyeballing it each had about half that much in blades and accessories but dude doesn't have a real inventory he just kept pulling power feeders and poo poo out of the walls
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Apr 10, 2024 00:22
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I have a bench almost exactly like this one, which I inherited: I want to keep using it because it's the right size for my space and I've fitted my own better vice to it. In search of more clamping options I have been tempted by the Microjig Matchfit stuff, because the dog holes on this aren't a suitable size for MFT accessories. It seemed to me that getting one of their sets and making a replaceable plywood topper for this would cost me less and be less destructive than trying to expand the dog holes to fit MFT hold downs etc. How good or bad an idea is it to get a sheet of 18 or 25mm ply, screw it to the top of the bench in a few places, and cut Matchfit dovetails throughout it? I figured only screws so it can be replaced when I need to.
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Apr 10, 2024 13:52
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Couple thoughts, from someone who has a matchfit groove top workbench. It's great for work holding for most power tool operations, less so for hand tools. The cheaper clamps are aggravating because the heads drop constantly, so it takes two hands to set them. The grooves collect sawdust and chips and then the clamps bind in them. That said the clamps and system can be used in surprising ways to solve problems, but I probably wouldn't add the tracks to my bench top again. Better as an assembly table thing rather than a primary work surface.
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Apr 12, 2024 12:47
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That is good to know, but I don't have space for a second surface. Since posting I've also seen folks have investigated what it takes to use third party clamps in dovetail grooves and apparently 10° grooves (as opposed to the Matchfit 14°) will fit most track clamps and will hold up to normal usage. For the price of a cheap router bit I'm going to try that with my existing clamps and if it works then it is worth my just having a go given the incredibly low cost and the reversability. Edit: Cheap 10° dovetail works. So rather than £135 or so for two ratchet clamps and the Matchfit router cutter, it's £24 for the regular dovetail cutter and two Aliexpress ratchet clamps. Sir Sidney Poitier fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Apr 12, 2024 |
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Apr 12, 2024 12:57
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Leperflesh posted:this may sound silly but have you tried slightly soapy water and a sponge? Soap and water wouldn't touch it. Neither would mineral spirits or naptha. My wife suggested trying a magic eraser and, sure enough, I was able to get 99% off pretty easily.
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Apr 12, 2024 19:45
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What's the best kind of beginner-friendly join for the following use case, and what sort/thickness of wood would be a good compromise of weight/strength/cost?  Basically I'm looking to build a shelf to go on the back of an aluminium frame hiking pack, which will be supporting 50lbs or so of weight (portable darkroom, chemistry, field camera, etc). I'll be using u-bolts to secure the vertical section to the pack, but wasn't sure the best way to keep the shelf from splitting off when on the trail.
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Apr 12, 2024 20:54
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do you have any woodworking experience at all? if not just do a screwed butt joint it will be fine. you can add wood glue for extra insurance if you want if you want a little bit more mechanical advantage and project difficulty cut a rabbet or dado but that isn't necessary. 3/4" thick will be more than strong enough and have extra meat to be forgiving to a beginner if you gently caress it up. 1.5" long wood screws will be fine. drill pilot holes first, size the hole by comparing the screw to drill bits until you get one that the threads are visible when the screw is held behind the bit you could probably use any wood you want for that really. for cheap just buy the "premium" pine at home depot that is already surfaced (smooth) PokeJoe fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Apr 12, 2024 |
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Apr 12, 2024 21:01
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Run a couple plywood triangles down the sides of the boards here, unless you really need your load to poke out past the sides of that shelf in which case extend the vertical maybe 3" below the joint and do the same thing from below. I've made box joints that *have* withstood that kind of treatment on their own, but it's not great for long-term hard use and you want as much as possible to avoid putting all the load at the very ends of the board like that.  IDK what they make pine out of where that dude comes from but no putting a wood screw ⅜" from the end of a SYP plank is not a mechanically sound way to carry any load A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Apr 12, 2024 |
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Apr 12, 2024 21:04
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If you're hiking with that load, the shelf is going to take a dynamic load with every heavy step that is multiple times the static weight. That means it needs to be strong. A simple join like a butt joint is going to split and come apart very fast and no, driving screws through it will not be enough. I agree with Wizard that you need an angled bar or connection to brace the outermost part of the shelf. Except to be honest I'd make the entire thing out of aluminum. Lighter, stronger, won't get all hosed up from weather and sun and wear and tear.
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Apr 12, 2024 22:08
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you guys don't have faith in the humble pine tree but the Douglas fir hasnt failed me yet
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Apr 12, 2024 22:14
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If your goal is to carry a big heavy box on a frame pack, can't you just use straps/webbing?
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Apr 12, 2024 22:15
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I will accept that living in the PNW most likely gives me better and cheaper "pine" than the majority of posters here
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Apr 12, 2024 22:15
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if you want a non direct answer to your question like everyone else: Are you sure you need a frame at all? can you just get a duffel bag or backpacking bag that opens easily enough to fit a case inside? the frame will almost certainly just add extra weight with little advantage unless you have a specific need for it
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Apr 12, 2024 22:17
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PokeJoe posted:I will accept that living in the PNW most likely gives me better and cheaper "pine" than the majority of posters here if you made a shelf like that out of solid oak and put it against a wall to put books on, the shelf would sag and the books would fall off this isn't a question of material, it's just massive leverage, you can't just drive screws into side or endgrain of a big plank of wood and pile weight on it
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Apr 12, 2024 22:30
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I made a shelf exactly like that years ago and loaded it up with cat food cans and it works just fine 
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Apr 12, 2024 23:09
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how wide do you think someone's back is
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Apr 12, 2024 23:12
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it's ok dude you can just be wrong, it isn't all that embarrassing until you start doing this poo poo
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Apr 12, 2024 23:14
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why is everyone being so aggro about this 
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Apr 12, 2024 23:30
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idk either I just posted about a real thing I made that works fine 
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Apr 12, 2024 23:32
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:Run a couple plywood triangles down the sides of the boards here, unless you really need your load to poke out past the sides of that shelf in which case extend the vertical maybe 3" below the joint and do the same thing from below. I've made box joints that *have* withstood that kind of treatment on their own, but it's not great for long-term hard use and you want as much as possible to avoid putting all the load at the very ends of the board like that. Yeah, it will need to poke out from the sides (27 gal plastic bin), that is a good idea extending it below and doing the inverted triangles though! Is 3/4" ply likely going to be good enough? Leperflesh posted:Except to be honest I'd make the entire thing out of aluminum. Lighter, stronger, won't get all hosed up from weather and sun and wear and tear. If I knew how to TIG weld I would, but alas. I'm not going to be hiking for days with it or anything, probably a few hours at a time, tops. PokeJoe posted:if you want a non direct answer to your question like everyone else: The frame/big plastic box is the easiest/most convenient way to do it; the box itself doubles as the darkroom when turned on its side:  I may switch to using a tripod + blackout fabric to make a teepee type setup for larger plates, but I've tested this setup before and it works well. Plus, now that I have the mental image in my head of LARPing Death Stranding, I gotta try it.
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Apr 13, 2024 01:12
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PokeJoe posted:I made a shelf exactly like that years ago and loaded it up with cat food cans and it works just fine take a photo and to be less aggro, I feel like there's some additional element to your successful design maybe? How thick is the wood you used, how far out from the wall does it stick?
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Apr 13, 2024 01:17
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Leperflesh posted:take a photo Dynamic load is also 0 for a wall shelf. Also 50lbs is approximately 150 cat food tins, so not sure we're talking the same scale. deimos fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Apr 13, 2024 |
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Apr 13, 2024 01:24
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Yeah, it will need to poke out from the sides (27 gal plastic bin), that is a good idea extending it below and doing the inverted triangles though! Is 3/4" ply likely going to be good enough? Yeah 3/4 would be more than enough, give it a little space around your attachment points and you could get away with like 1/4-1/2 and just butt everything up with glue and screws if you want to; all the force is going along the width of the plywood and any stray lateral force will get handled by your existing shelf bits, it'll create an extremely sturdy box that can handle a fair bit of abuse in all directions. It *would* be lighter in aluminum (i recently finished a wooden camp chest that's got pretty similar requirements and old-timey wood construction does pack on the pounds fast) but if that's all you're doing it shouldn't be too cumbersome for a day hike A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Apr 13, 2024 |
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Apr 13, 2024 01:34
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The best strength/weight for doing this out of wood is probably 1/2" plywood. If you have access to a table saw or circular saw and know how to use them safely, you can rip 2" strips of 1/2" ply and screw them together into an L or T shape to make 'boards' with triangular gussets in the corners and make an extremely strong construction. An easier but slightly heavier and bulkier option is to use 2x2 or 2x4 (or probably 1x4 if you're picky to avoid knots) lumber with triangular plywood braces on the corners like Wizard of Goatse suggested. 1/2" or 3/8" plywood glued and screwed should be more than sufficient. Even very thin plywood is very stiff against forces parallel to the face of the sheet and that's what you need. You can also make those brackets out of a 1x6 or 1x4 or somethin if that's easier to handle, you just want to make sure the grain is running parallel to the hypotenuse of the triangle like this (but on the underside):  And be sure to pre-drill pilot holes for the screws as they will be near the end of the board and likely to split. Also definitely use glue. Any wood glue or carpenter's glue or even elmer's white glue is fine, but in a perfect world Titebond II or Titebond III would be best as they have good water resistance.
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Apr 13, 2024 02:02
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Rabeting the board into the backer (not much needed here, 1/16th to 1/8th) will also help heaps with the force transfer.
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Apr 13, 2024 02:31
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Ethics_Gradient posted:What's the best kind of beginner-friendly join for the following use case, and what sort/thickness of wood would be a good compromise of weight/strength/cost? You don't need a shelf, the same lashing you use to secure the tote to the frame can support it underneath. Turn it vertical (lid facing your back, probably) and get some webbing, then do a diamond hitch like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s39Gm0O0jJU I need to emphasize: this is going to be uncomfortable at best, but completely unmanageable if you don't properly secure the load. 50 pounds on your back is serious weight, even for "just" a day trip, and carrying it in a tote means it will not be close to your back, increasing the leverage. It's going to slow you down noticeably if you're not in good shape, and it's going to be painful if your pack is loose or sloppy. "Loose" includes whatever you're putting in the tote btw, i hope you have a very tight and well--padded packing arrangement.
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Apr 13, 2024 03:15
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