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A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Jobsite table saws are pretty awful unless you're actually a contractor who needs to be able to shove your whole workshop in a van; then they're still awful but you're in the business of making that everyone else's problem. The DeWalt jobsites are the only ones I'm aware of that make a real effort to keep the rip fence square, and I never ran into blade calibration issues on my exceptionally beat-up one, but if you've got a lot of space any old cabinet saw on Facebook Marketplace will be a dramatic step up, just be sure to get one with a riving knife since that wasn't a standard piece of equipment in olden times

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Apr 18, 2024

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CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


having screwed around with several mediocre table saws over the years, I'd say that the best way to go is to Just Get a Good One, whether it's new or used.

If you can't Just Get a Good One, take whatever crap you feel safe using and use it only for the work that really needs a table saw and has no other workarounds.


I'm never buying another mediocre table saw. If the rigid contractor saw that I have now dies, or if I decide to replace it, I'm going full sawstop. If I can't afford to do that, I'll grab a used cheap saw and essentially convert it into a dedicated specialty sled / dado device.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
dont overlook rigid, they make(maybe made, ive been out of the trades for a few years and havent kept up with tool quality as much) good tools.

all of their portable motorized tools ive used have always lasted forever

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


My Spirit Otter posted:

dont overlook rigid, they make(maybe made, ive been out of the trades for a few years and havent kept up with tool quality as much) good tools.

all of their portable motorized tools ive used have always lasted forever

Like, it's functional and it cuts wood, but it's fit and finish stuff. I'm just not satisfied with the fence enough to use it without a square nearby, the adjustment knobs are wonky, I can't get the throat plate to sit flush (though I haven't tinkered with it much), and it's old enough that it doesn't have a built-in splitter, though it does have one that attaches to the blade guard (which is big and clunky enough that I can only use it for wide rips and my recent projects have been like "I need 60 3/4 inch square sticks"). I would not recommend anyone buy the same saw for more than "gently caress yeah that's a good deal for a table saw" prices.

I bought it from a friend who was moving as a favour to him, with a bunch of other stuff. It was an upgrade from my old one, both in quality and safety.

e. though yes, portability on this saw is amazing - it has a nice stand and wheels around like a champ. If I ever need to take it anywhere I'll be the life of the party.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




The dewalt 7491 is rather quite good. I used one for several years until I had a big enough shop to get a proper cabinet saw
They go on sale every once in a while, but even at full price they’re like $700 with a pretty nice collapsing stand

The only thing that I really didn’t like about it was how short the indeed side of the table is

Eason the Fifth
Apr 9, 2020
If you don't have a table saw, what's the best option for a clean and straight cut on plywood? A circular saw with a jig?

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Tracksaw, which comes out to p much the same thing

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!

My Spirit Otter posted:

dont overlook rigid, they make(maybe made, ive been out of the trades for a few years and havent kept up with tool quality as much) good tools.

all of their portable motorized tools ive used have always lasted forever

My first table saw when I started getting into woodworking was a rigid on a gravity rise stand and the blade/fence were perfect out of the box and never needed any adjusting for the whole time I used it. Then I bought a bigger used saw and entered a world of pain with bad alignments and lovely fences. Since I no longer have any table saw I am actually considering getting another Rigid.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Squibbles posted:

My first table saw when I started getting into woodworking was a rigid on a gravity rise stand and the blade/fence were perfect out of the box and never needed any adjusting for the whole time I used it. Then I bought a bigger used saw and entered a world of pain with bad alignments and lovely fences. Since I no longer have any table saw I am actually considering getting another Rigid.

I've got one of these: https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/ten-in-professional-cast-iron-table-saw

It was about $700 at HD and has done a good job for me.

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!

Deteriorata posted:

I've got one of these: https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/ten-in-professional-cast-iron-table-saw

It was about $700 at HD and has done a good job for me.

Yeah I've looked at those in the past and have heard they are pretty good. Weird the reviews are so low on the ridgid site.

In our new place I'm not yet confident that I'll have room for a non-collapsable saw. but we'll see

Olothreutes
Mar 31, 2007

Is the Delta 36-725 still a surprisingly good table saw for the money? I sometimes think about getting one when I pretend I'm going to clean out my garage enough to have space for a table saw.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

Olothreutes posted:

Is the Delta 36-725 still a surprisingly good table saw for the money? I sometimes think about getting one when I pretend I'm going to clean out my garage enough to have space for a table saw.

I like mine. The biggest issues are dust collection (bottom of the saw is pretty open, especially on the T2) and the extension tables, which are stamped steel and absolutely not flat. Both are pretty fixable, you can build an enclosure around the bottom of the saw, and build extension tables that aren't useless.

dupersaurus
Aug 1, 2012

Futurism was an art movement where dudes were all 'CARS ARE COOL AND THE PAST IS FOR CHUMPS. LET'S DRAW SOME CARS.'

Eason the Fifth posted:

If you don't have a table saw, what's the best option for a clean and straight cut on plywood? A circular saw with a jig?

I spent $300 on the kreg track saw for a project and it saved me way more than that in effort and frustration

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
out of curiosity, i know old delta shop tools are second to none, but i havent heard anything about delta beyond the 90s. they still have that reputation?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I wouldn't say "second to none" but they still have a very good reputation, yes. Plenty of professional shops use the pro-tier Deltas.

I think if you are shopping on a budget, you might slightly prefer Grizzly or Rikon for very similar quality at perhaps a bit less money, and goons have generally had good things to say about those brands in here too. I have a Rikon 14" bandsaw that I'm happy with. But similarly in the Delta bracket of quality are outfits like Wen, Jet, SCM, and Laguna.

Then there's sawstop. And if you are thinking about buying a brand new cabinet or shop table saw, you may want to see how the latest proposed legislation falls out, because America may be mandating sawstop-like technology for all new saws very soon. That might lower prices on that, or it might increase prices for all lower-tier saws, so :shrug: it's an interesting time for table saws!

Contractor-grade stuff is solidly in the DeWalt and Rigid type of brand and those are totally fine for what you get too. If I was buying a portable/contractor table saw I'd probably buy one of those, over one of the above brands.

e. I forgot to mention Powermatic, they're a fine quality brand too.

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Apr 19, 2024

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


There are a few exceptions to this, but in general my rule of thumb is don't buy machinery (lots of cast iron, not portable, has a big induction motor on it-cabinet saws, jointers, planers over 13," bandsaws, drill presses) from a power tool (portable, plastic and aluminum, some kind of universal motor-circ saws, routers, power drills etc.) brand. Delta is one of those brands trying to do both and I don't think it's workin great for them.

My Spirit Otter posted:

out of curiosity, i know old delta shop tools are second to none, but i havent heard anything about delta beyond the 90s. they still have that reputation?
They are in the same tier as Ridgid imo, but very little is sold under the Delta brand anymore. The brand was bought in 2011 by a Taiwanese manufacturer that manufactures stuff for TTI, DeWalt, Ryobi, etc, and if you look at the few things sold under the Delta name, they are pretty identical to something from one of those brands just in black/grey and blue. They revamped the Unisaw a few years ago but they are at the same price point as a Sawstop so I can't imagine they sell many of them.

Old Delta stuff is a huge range of quality. Before Rockwell sold the brand in the 80s it was good quality high-end hobbyist/low-end professional stuff, and mostly stayed pretty good and largely made domestically. After Black and Decker bought them in the early 2000s it became alot more of a Taiwan-import brand that still traded on the old name and faded out almost all domestic manufacturing like Jet, Powermatic, General, Oliver, etc. but mostly still made decent machinery. Unisaws I think have always been (still are?) made in the US. I had a made in Taiwan delta jointer and it was great till it fell off a forklift. There was some really great heavy industrial stuff in the 80s/90s sold under the Rockwell and later Delta names manufactured by Invicta in Brazil that has a good reputation on the used market.


Leperflesh posted:


I think if you are shopping on a budget, you might slightly prefer Grizzly or Rikon for very similar quality at perhaps a bit less money, and goons have generally had good things to say about those brands in here too. I have a Rikon 14" bandsaw that I'm happy with. But similarly in the Delta bracket of quality are outfits like Wen, Jet, SCM, and Laguna.

e. I forgot to mention Powermatic, they're a fine quality brand too.
Jet, Laguna, Powermatic are all about the same pretty decent Taiwanese imports (Jet/Powermatic are the same company) but SCM (unless theres a SCM that isn't the Italian one) is light years above and WEN is like harbor freight quality ime. Probably mostly okay and great for the price, but keep your expectations low.

The Wiggly Wizard
Aug 21, 2008


Noob question here. I'm going to make a glorified 3x5 Ikea Kallax out 3/4" plywood. Like basic cubbies. Would it be better to have continuous vertical dividing panels, or continuous shelves?

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Continuous verticals IMO, because they're the load-bearing portion. Then you just need to hang each individual shelf onto the vertical walls, which can be done any number of ways. For example, you could stack all of your verticals together, then drill through them to create dowel holes (which are automatically aligned because you stacked the verticals together), install a short dowel section in each individual hole, and rest the shelves on the dowels.

HappyHippo
Nov 19, 2003
Do you have an Air Miles Card?
Probably worth noting how the actual Kallax is designed, which is with two thicker verticals on the outside, continuous shelves between those, and then vertical dividers between the shelves to make the cubes.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Continuous verticals IMO, because they're the load-bearing portion. Then you just need to hang each individual shelf onto the vertical walls, which can be done any number of ways. For example, you could stack all of your verticals together, then drill through them to create dowel holes (which are automatically aligned because you stacked the verticals together), install a short dowel section in each individual hole, and rest the shelves on the dowels.

You want to build these things with continuous horizontal shelves.

The shelves are where the load goes, and if you build with continuous verticals all the weight will be resting on whatever joins the shelf to the vertical. The load-bearing component won't be the plywood vertical, it'll be the dowel supporting the shelf. If you build with continuous horizontals, the shelf will be resting on top of the vertical dividers which will make them the primary load-bearing component. The joinery here would just be for alignment purposes.



That's why every flat pack cube organizer you'll ever assemble has long shelves resting on short dividers.

The Wiggly Wizard
Aug 21, 2008


Khizan posted:

You want to build these things with continuous horizontal shelves.

The shelves are where the load goes, and if you build with continuous verticals all the weight will be resting on whatever joins the shelf to the vertical. The load-bearing component won't be the plywood vertical, it'll be the dowel supporting the shelf. If you build with continuous horizontals, the shelf will be resting on top of the vertical dividers which will make them the primary load-bearing component. The joinery here would just be for alignment purposes.



That's why every flat pack cube organizer you'll ever assemble has long shelves resting on short dividers.

If I were to do continuous shelves, dadoes would be a bad idea for joinery, right? Pocket screws might even be better in this case? Those two methods are pretty much the only thing in my wheelhouse at the moment.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




if you're making it yourself, why not half-lap it so that every piece is continuous

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Jet, Laguna, Powermatic are all about the same pretty decent Taiwanese imports (Jet/Powermatic are the same company) but SCM (unless theres a SCM that isn't the Italian one) is light years above and WEN is like harbor freight quality ime. Probably mostly okay and great for the price, but keep your expectations low.

How much do you disagree with https://www.woodsmith.com/review/best-band-saw/? There are three WENs on their list, and that's why I included them, but I have no personal experience with those. They also recommend the Delta 28-400.

Reviews generally seem to be quite good for the Laguna 1412 series bandsaw, too. People like the ceramic guides even though they're expensive to replace. Except the people who hate them, becuase they mis-positioned the saw blade and the ceramic rubbed against the teeth and ruined them in short order. Hmm.

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Apr 19, 2024

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Leperflesh posted:

How much do you disagree with https://www.woodsmith.com/review/best-band-saw/? There are three WENs on their list, and that's why I included them, but I have no personal experience with those. They also recommend the Delta 28-400.

Reviews generally seem to be quite good for the Laguna 1412 series bandsaw, too. People like the ceramic guides even though they're expensive to replace.

Despite being from Woodsmith which is a mediocre but real woodworking magazine, that looks like every AI-generated 'review' article ever and two of those three WEN bandsaws are portabands for metal, and in the same article it list 'heavy' as a con for a stationary bandsaw which is the opposite of a con for me, so I guess I'd disagree with it totally? I don't have much personal hands on WEN experience but a buddy of mine has gotten a few of their things for small projects over the years and the Harbor Freight comparison was his.

And Laguna definitely brings in good bandsaws! That's what they made their name on.

HappyHippo
Nov 19, 2003
Do you have an Air Miles Card?

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Despite being from Woodsmith which is a mediocre but real woodworking magazine, that looks like every AI-generated 'review' article ever

Yup. No authors, just

quote:

Woodsmith Review Team

The Woodsmith Review Team’s product reviews and in-depth guides are here to help you choose the best tools and gear to build great-looking projects confidently. The content is created by The Woodsmith Review Team. Woodsmith’s editorial staff is not involved. Woodsmith is reader-supported: When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. The Woodsmith Review Team is composed of authors, editors, and woodsmiths. Large language models (like Artificial Intelligence) may have been used in the research and creation of the content.

Inquiries regarding specific articles or product testing should be sent to aimperiapt@gmail.com

Just google that email address to turn up more of this garbage:
https://www.cuisineathome.com/review/author/cuisine-review-team/
https://www.sailmagazine.com/review/author/sailmag/
https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/review/author/old-cars-review-team/
https://www.gardengatemagazine.com/review/author/garden-gate-review-team/

HappyHippo fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Apr 19, 2024

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Hopefully that doesn't happen to Fine Woodworking, it'll be an instant end to my annual subscription if they start doing AI content.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Despite being from Woodsmith which is a mediocre but real woodworking magazine, that looks like every AI-generated 'review' article ever and two of those three WEN bandsaws are portabands for metal, and in the same article it list 'heavy' as a con for a stationary bandsaw which is the opposite of a con for me, so I guess I'd disagree with it totally? I don't have much personal hands on WEN experience but a buddy of mine has gotten a few of their things for small projects over the years and the Harbor Freight comparison was his.

And Laguna definitely brings in good bandsaws! That's what they made their name on.

Weight is only an issue when you need to move a stationary tool, which really makes these 'reviews' questionable as gently caress lmao

Also, having owned a Laguna 14BX for a few years now it has handled everything I've thrown at it without issue. Resawing 250+ mm wide beech without a hitch. Only point of annoyance is that the dust collection isn't perfect, but by bandsaw standards still very solid. Definitely in a different category than WEN by the looks of it.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Khizan posted:

You want to build these things with continuous horizontal shelves.

The shelves are where the load goes, and if you build with continuous verticals all the weight will be resting on whatever joins the shelf to the vertical. The load-bearing component won't be the plywood vertical, it'll be the dowel supporting the shelf. If you build with continuous horizontals, the shelf will be resting on top of the vertical dividers which will make them the primary load-bearing component. The joinery here would just be for alignment purposes.



That's why every flat pack cube organizer you'll ever assemble has long shelves resting on short dividers.

Hm, I'm not sure I follow the logic here. Certainly you're correct that the dowels would be taking load, but they'd be taking the load of one short shelf section, which isn't going to be much. The issue I have with short verticals and continuous shelves is that it seems much more prone to racking if your joinery isn't on point. I am of course open to being corrected, but I feel like continuous verticals has the simplest joinery and the least risk of spontaneous disassembly.

Of course, if you secure everything to a backing of 1/4" plywood then you'll be fine either way.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

feeling very stupid r/n for linking to an AI article lol and lmao

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Leperflesh posted:

feeling very stupid r/n for linking to an AI article lol and lmao

I wouldn’t, it’s going to happen to all of us soon or later

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Wen makes regular appearances in "I tried out the cheapest ___" on Amazon videos

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


*kicks my aliexpress Makita knocknoff router under the bench*

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




I just managed to completely stall out my jointer
It’s a late 80s/early 90s delta with an aluminum fence that I got for $50 and it’s always been pretty sketch, but that’s the final straw. Backing the wood off to let the motor spin back up was not a super safe or great feeling experience.

Are there any decent 6/8” jointers that I can buy new relatively cheap or do I need to really hunker down and do daily craigslist scans?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Sockser posted:

I just managed to completely stall out my jointer
It’s a late 80s/early 90s delta with an aluminum fence that I got for $50 and it’s always been pretty sketch, but that’s the final straw. Backing the wood off to let the motor spin back up was not a super safe or great feeling experience.

Are there any decent 6/8” jointers that I can buy new relatively cheap or do I need to really hunker down and do daily craigslist scans?
Post pics of the current jointer.

Have you checked the belt tension/condition? Are the knives sharp? Sounds to me more like a slipping belt than a stalled motor unless you were taking a really heavy cut and the knives are dull. Also next time don't back the wood off, just lift it up against the fence.

Otherwise, all the things listed above-Grizzly, Jet, Laguna, Rikon, Ridgid (I think makes/used to make a jointer) etc. or used.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Knives are definitely sharp, replaced fairly recently

Belt slipping I'd believe, it does have a faint air of burnt rubber whenever I'm running things through it

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

First step is open up and inspect. Look for debris gumming up the works, signs of worn or slipping belt, misalignment of belt, etc.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Brushes if the motor has em may be worth checking. Preferably before you fuse the holder.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Sockser posted:

Knives are definitely sharp, replaced fairly recently

Belt slipping I'd believe, it does have a faint air of burnt rubber whenever I'm running things through it
Yeah that definitely sounds like a slipping belt. Tighten it up by moving the motor mount and spray it with some belt dressing (and possibly replace it) and see if that helps.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Very pleased with how chair number 4 is coming along. This morning I wrapped up the last of the major work, getting the joinery for the short sticks & the crest done. Next up is all the little detail work (sanding, smooth planing, breaking edges, etc) before I move on to finishing & assembly.

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That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


ColdPie posted:

Very pleased with how chair number 4 is coming along. This morning I wrapped up the last of the major work, getting the joinery for the short sticks & the crest done. Next up is all the little detail work (sanding, smooth planing, breaking edges, etc) before I move on to finishing & assembly.



Great job, that looks really good man

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