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[banging knife and fork on table] load bearing screws! load bearing screws!
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Apr 13, 2024 03:35
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Finishing a maple dining room table we’ve stripped and sanded tomorrow. Local hardware store just has Minwax. Planning to use an oil based wipe on poly. Is minwax a reasonable choice for the finish, as far as quality goes? Would hate to put in all this work and not be happy with the finish because we used a low quality poly
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Apr 14, 2024 14:51
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A hopefully much less contentious question! Another project I want to do is try and build an adapter to use my 6x10 back on my 8x10 camera. It's not very complicated; all of the tight tolerances for the plate holder are integral to the 6x10 part, so this is just making a light tight square of wood with a big hole in the middle that fits the back of my 8x10 camera, that I can then screw the 6x10 back into. Questions I had: What's a good, dimensionally stable timber to use? Cherry is pretty common for these types of camera so was thinking I'd go with that. Teak is another one, but I know it's $$$. What's going to be the most economical way to go about buying the wood and then cutting/thicknessing it? As far as joins, here's what's on the 6x10 back:  What kind of tooling would I need for something like this, and is there any easier alternative? Looks aren't important, just needs to be relatively strong. hypnophant posted:You don't need a shelf, the same lashing you use to secure the tote to the frame can support it underneath. Turn it vertical (lid facing your back, probably) and get some webbing, then do a diamond hitch like this 50lbs is a guess at the worst case scenario, I haven't actually tried doing a dry run packing everything up yet (it'll depend on the size and number of plates I plan to shoot; with the 4x5" plates I normally shoot it should be well under that, but I'd like to try whole plate or 8x10 at some point). I wouldn't go much more than 30 minutes each direction with that much on my back most likely, it's just the top end of what I'd be willing to put up with. Orienting it vertically is not going to work well unless I build a bunch of shelving on the inside, which will add weight and complexity that I don't really want.
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Apr 14, 2024 19:39
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if looks are unimportant and stability is your biggest desire id make that little box out of premium plywood. it will already be whatever thickness you want and it's more dimensionally stable than solid wood. I might not be picturing the box correctly but you could possibly assemble it w glue blocks
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Apr 14, 2024 19:44
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hobbez posted:Finishing a maple dining room table we’ve stripped and sanded tomorrow.
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Apr 14, 2024 19:58
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You can also make wipe-on poly out of normal poly by diluting 1:1 with mineral spirits. This is what I've been doing and it's pretty idiot proof.
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Apr 14, 2024 22:25
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I see a lot of the woodworking channels using monocoat rubio as the end all for wood finish. Is that all youtube hype, or is it like Festool where it is good, but you are going to pay a lot for it?
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Apr 15, 2024 18:56
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Skunkduster posted:I see a lot of the woodworking channels using monocoat rubio as the end all for wood finish. Is that all youtube hype, or is it like Festool where it is good, but you are going to pay a lot for it? It’s like Festool in that it’s good but you pay a lot. It’s unlike Festool in that it’s squarely aimed at hobbyists with a lot of disposable income rather than rich hobbyists AND pros like Festool is.
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Apr 15, 2024 19:12
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Skunkduster posted:I see a lot of the woodworking channels using monocoat rubio as the end all for wood finish. Is that all youtube hype, or is it like Festool where it is good, but you are going to pay a lot for it? I have read a lot about it tho, and from everything I can tell it’s basically a hard wax oil like Osmo or many others, but with a hardener/drying agent and a lot of color choices.https://declare.living-future.org/products/rubio-monocoat-oil-plus-2c Boiled Linseed oil and some waxes. The main difference between monocoat and others seems to be the addition of a 2nd component that’s a catalyst to speed drying. You could probably use something like Japan drier with any other hard wax oil and get a similar effect if you need fast drying? Their colors also seem to be pretty good and varied which probably makes a lot of people happy since amateur woodworkers are largely terrified of stain. I assume their colors also act more like a gel stain which is going to give a really uniform result (at the cost of some clarity) vs either a dye or pigment stain. I’ve been very happy with Osmo’s polyx oil. It dries overnight IME and is pretty water resistant and has a similar matte ‘nothing on the wood’ look and feel which I think is another thing people like about monocoat. It’s also not cheap, but it’s pretty user friendly and idiot proof with no mixing of catalysts required. Other places make hardwax oils too. I got some Briwax hard wax oil which I haven’t tried yet but it was considerably cheaper than Osmo. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Apr 15, 2024 |
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Apr 15, 2024 19:35
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I used osmo polyx in a restoration project and it was fine, but again, pricy.
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Apr 15, 2024 19:38
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Siccative is what you want if you're seeking to speed up oils drying. But more generally, how much of amateur's fears about stain comes down to absolute dogshit information from manufacturers and lovely products? If it's anything like finishing in general my guess is going to be "a lot". (The other aspect is trying to do things with stain that just can't be done. Pine or plywood just doesn't have the structure or porosity to imitate walnut or mahogany, no matter how much you slather on it.)
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Apr 15, 2024 19:58
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The one-coat quick-drying aspect probably also appeals to youtubers who need to get the video out now and move on to the next one.
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Apr 15, 2024 20:37
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HappyHippo posted:The one-coat quick-drying aspect probably also appeals to youtubers who need to get the video out now and move on to the next one. Rubio is also probably paying them to use and promote their product.
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Apr 15, 2024 20:56
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Just Winging It posted:Siccative is what you want if you're seeking to speed up oils drying. If you used lovely wood or did a lovely job of sanding it'll still probably look fine until you stain it, and most of the Lowes Depot stains kinda look like poo poo in most applications regardless. It requires a fair bit of attention to detail and experimentation to get predictable results, there's no thousand-dollar product that will let you bypass that process, so if you value your time at all there's no cost savings or benefit in making a single TV tray or whatever out of faux walnut vs. the real thing. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Apr 15, 2024 |
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Apr 15, 2024 21:24
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Just Winging It posted:(The other aspect is trying to do things with stain that just can't be done. Pine or plywood just doesn't have the structure or porosity to imitate walnut or mahogany, no matter how much you slather on it.)
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Apr 15, 2024 21:25
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:If you used lovely wood or did a lovely job of sanding it'll still probably look fine until you stain it, and most of the Lowes Depot stains kinda look like poo poo in most applications regardless. It requires a fair bit of attention to detail and experimentation to get predictable results, there's no thousand-dollar product that will let you bypass that process, so if you value your time at all there's no cost savings or benefit in making a single TV tray or whatever out of faux walnut vs. the real thing. Pretty much yes. Same story as veneering, if you do it solely to avoid using solid boards then you're not going to be saving money or time. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Challenge accepted. Okay, fine, it probably can be done, but the amount of effort, skill, & time required still make it a silly proposition just to avoid using the real deal.
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Apr 15, 2024 22:52
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Hey yall, idk if anybody remembers but last year I was asking about milling down a giant tree next to my house. We finally got it taken down (I'll update with photos) and the tree man said it looks like it'll make some great slabs. Got a portable mill and a kiln lined up. I'll update once we get them milled!
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Apr 16, 2024 17:54
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Oh, nice. What species of tree?
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Apr 16, 2024 18:20
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Siberian elm. Got the main trunk up the first crotch as one log and it's straight as an arrow which is nice. The portable mill guy is a friend of the arborist and supposedly can handle the log and has a crane to lift it since it's about 4 tons. Roughly 16' feet long, 3' diameter at the narrowest, 4' diameter at the crotch, no visible rot... we'll see about metal in the tree... Also got a whole mess of other logs that are much more manageable.
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Apr 16, 2024 19:01
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I really like the General Finishes products for my stains and finishes, great quality stuff and it goes a long way
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Apr 17, 2024 15:49
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I have a blend of beeswax and coconut oil that I made for my face, and I rubbed it on some wood today. Might try some iron on ski wax too, we've got some of the good stuff (PFAS)
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Apr 17, 2024 22:33
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I made an Irish spring soap finish for funsies recently and it works I guess
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Apr 17, 2024 23:08
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there's a joke about this exact thing in anarchists design book in the soap finish portion
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Apr 17, 2024 23:09
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beeswax has been used as a wood finish for at least millenia, but I'm not sure about coconut oil because it might rot?
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Apr 18, 2024 00:49
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I’ve used shoe polish and mink oil for some quick and dirty apartment furniture, and it’s worked great.
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Apr 18, 2024 01:05
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Epitope posted:I have a blend of beeswax and coconut oil that I made for my face, and I rubbed it on some wood today. Might try some iron on ski wax too, we've got some of the good stuff (PFAS) I'd use mineral oil instead, pretty sure that doesn't spoil. You can add carnuba wax as well, but I'm pretty sure the 1:1 beeswax and mineral oil is the thread standard recommendation for food safe things.
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Apr 18, 2024 01:07
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Correct, mineral oil does not spoil. And another food-safe finish is 100% real actual tung oil. Not "tung oil" that is actually something else, but the real stuff is advertised as "100% tung oil" and it's food safe.
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Apr 18, 2024 01:09
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so how bad is a Ryobi RTS10G table saw for any kind of precision? When I read poo poo about tools online I have a hard time differentiating between 'bad for pros' vs 'just really bad'. I'm just an amateur so my requirements are pretty low, but it'd be good to know if this thing is actively working against me. I was bequeathed a bunch of mostly Ryobi tools by a friend who moved cross country a number of years ago (this may have been a wife excuse for him to upgrade), but the table saw is what I use most. Over the years my increasingly ambitious home projects have evolved into a minor woodworking hobby. I've gotten a bit better at this stuff, but I am absurdly unable to do poo poo straight with any of these power tools. Like new blade on the saw and riding along the table's fence with the board's straight edge and the cut is not straight at all. Maybe the tools are fine and I was just born under a crooked star. I followed a video today to build a crosscut sled so maybe I could make straighter cuts on another project and drat is my front fence some jank poo poo.
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Apr 18, 2024 08:26
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FuzzySlippers posted:so how bad is a Ryobi RTS10G table saw for any kind of precision? That's not coming from a place of tool snobbery or anything - my table saw is the dewalt contractor one, and its been a dream to me, even as I push full sheets of plywood over it's 5 square inch table. Slugworth fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Apr 18, 2024 |
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Apr 18, 2024 11:29
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No personal experience with that saw, but a quick Google search and looking at the pics and I think the fence is hurting you. Can't tell for sure but it looks like it primarily locks on the front face, I've used saws like that before and it's extremely easy for the fence to lock out of parallel with the blade.
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Apr 18, 2024 11:46
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I used a really lovely old inherited table saw for a while and where I settled was that it was fine for rough rips, and actually quite nice for sled work, but absolutely worthless for anything that required precision. My one attempt at an end-grain cutting board is super sad.
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Apr 18, 2024 14:54
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The Ryobi table saw is famously bad and mostly unsafe.
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Apr 18, 2024 15:06
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Has anyone ever dealt with reclaimed wood dealers? I'm a college archivist, and over the years we've gathered a collection of furniture that we can no longer keep. I'm in the process of finding new homes for most of it (Habitat, antique dealers, dumpster), but we've also got a big old beam that was originally part of our chapel, circa 1864, and later removed during modern renovations. I don't want to just throw it away and was wondering if a reclaimed wood company might find some use for it. As you can see, it's got some cracks and cuts in it, but it might be salvageable. 
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Apr 18, 2024 16:02
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FuzzySlippers posted:so how bad is a Ryobi RTS10G table saw for any kind of precision? When I read poo poo about tools online I have a hard time differentiating between 'bad for pros' vs 'just really bad'. I'm just an amateur so my requirements are pretty low, but it'd be good to know if this thing is actively working against me. i recently set up the even cheaper and crummier 8 1/4 inch ryobi table saw and was able to get straight and parallel cuts and square corners. you'll need a cheap combo square with a ruler. here are the points i checked, in order: - table flat. it's not going to be, you know, reference surface flat, but it should not be obviously dished, domed, or warped. if it is, lap it flat. (just kidding the saw is no good, throw it out and start over) - blade parallel to miter slot. check this with your ruler at both the toe and hell of the blade. page 31 of the manual - runout on the arbor. you don't need to dial this in or anything, there just shouldn't be any obvious wobble when the blade is in motion. check that the arbor nut is tight and clear of dust or debris - riving knife in plane with the blade. there should be some adjustment screws for this - check the manual If those are all ok then your saw is set up and capable of making precise cuts in wood. The gauges may not be as precise as you want, so use your combo square to set the blade perpendicular and ruler to set the fence parallel to the blade, checking at the toe and heel. Don't rely on the indicator and don't trust the fence will automatically be parallel to the blade. I find it's usually good enough if I push on both sides of the front T before clamping the fence down, but if you need precision, use the ruler. the big show stoppers are the table not being flat or the blade won't stay parallel to the miter slot. if you've adjusted it and tightened everything and it still slips out of true, just ditch the saw, but the rest of the stuff is mostly fixable.
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Apr 18, 2024 16:36
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quote:the blade won't stay parallel to the miter slot. if you've adjusted it and tightened everything and it still slips out of true, That is the main complaint I've seen for this saw.
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Apr 18, 2024 16:49
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I'm just gonna pipe up and say that aligning the blade to the miter slot and then ensuring the fence is and stays aligned to both is a safety priority for a table saw. It's not just to keep you getting good cuts: it's to prevent the wood from being forced between the blade and the fence during a cut, which creates a serious kick back risk. Kickbacks are the thing that causes the most injuries from table saws - not chopping off fingers, although that's certainly unfortunately common. If the blade wont' stay aligned or the fence is too flimsy to stay straight, the saw is too dangerous to use. IMO.
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Apr 18, 2024 16:59
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Leperflesh posted:I'm just gonna pipe up and say that aligning the blade to the miter slot and then ensuring the fence is and stays aligned to both is a safety priority for a table saw. It's not just to keep you getting good cuts: it's to prevent the wood from being forced between the blade and the fence during a cut, which creates a serious kick back risk. Kickbacks are the thing that causes the most injuries from table saws - not chopping off fingers, although that's certainly unfortunately common. very good point, i should have led with that. I haven't had issues with mine (rts08) holding alignment but it's a different model and ryobi may have changed the design. I also haven't pushed it - it's been used for plywood, mdf, and softwoods, with an appropriate blade. Definitely something to check every time you use the saw, if you want to try to make it work.
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Apr 18, 2024 17:27
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Leperflesh posted:I'm just gonna pipe up and say that aligning the blade to the miter slot and then ensuring the fence is and stays aligned to both is a safety priority for a table saw. It's not just to keep you getting good cuts: it's to prevent the wood from being forced between the blade and the fence during a cut, which creates a serious kick back risk. Kickbacks are the thing that causes the most injuries from table saws - not chopping off fingers, although that's certainly unfortunately common. Those aren't mutually exclusive, either, a kickback can absolutely pull your hand into the blade.
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Apr 18, 2024 17:37
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Yeah but if you're reaching over the blade to caress the outfeeding lumber you kinda craved the saw's kissSelachian posted:Has anyone ever dealt with reclaimed wood dealers? Yeah someone'll buy it,if it doesn't have a ton of extra nails on the sides likely even just a regular lumberyard. Don't expect them to pay a ton though, retail lumber places tend to run by paying a dime per board foot and charging $10 A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Apr 18, 2024 |
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Apr 18, 2024 20:27
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Thanks for all the info. I removed the blade and cleaned everything and installed a new blade yesterday which made me particularly grumpy about still getting lovely cuts. I'll check the squaring on everything again and see if I can improve it. If the problem is the fence then at least the crosscut sled would avoid the issue when I can get it finished properly. I finally bought my first new proper power tool last night, the Bosch combo router highly recommended everywhere, and I'm hoping to use that to straighten my sled's wonky fence. I had also 3D printed some t tracks for hold downs on the sled and I'm looking forward to using the router on that instead of more tedious chiseling (what I had been doing for such things). If this table saw won't be tamed are there any budget friendly table saw recommendations? I had been thinking I was going to get a new one eventually when I built a workbench. I have a lot of space in my garage and my current setup is a couple of random tables from Goodwill. Rather than figure out how to remove the table saw from its wonky rusty table it seemed a good excuse to buy a brand new saw to install into a new bench.
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Apr 18, 2024 22:15
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