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Brushes if the motor has em may be worth checking. Preferably before you fuse the holder.
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2024 04:48 |
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# ¿ May 16, 2024 09:25 |
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PokeJoe posted:do you post these just to put the rest of the thread in our place Not only that, he does it as an after thought on a post about something else.
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 05:38 |
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If you want to know the variety of euro hinges look up the Blum concealed hinge brochure. It's 100 pages. drat near all of them are hinges and opening/closing systems, the rest are jigs and tools. Sugatsune also has a shitload of hinge variety.
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 19:51 |
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O hey, a good video reviewing a WoodRiver that points out it's nits vs something more expensive, touches on the beginner dichotomy of needing to get a cheaper one to not spend that much money vs. having the knowledge and knowing what to expect when planing. Also touched on the blade being an unknown quantity, so may need to be replaced sooner than later. https://youtu.be/4Tn4LVeZouA
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 14:57 |
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HappyHippo posted:The only place that sells Wood River planes in Canada is Rob Cosman's store. They actually cost more than Veritas. I think the video works as a generic "cheap plane" review. That is to say, fine to buy if you have the knowledge and time to fix it available (yourself or someone with experience). The only expensive planes I would never use are the harvey tools one (bridge city), they are just... Anti-ergonomic.
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 22:05 |
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I am fairly sure that's an ice saw like others have mentioned. Probably used to cut blocks for a fridge before electricity. Any wood handles ones probably would not have survived to be vintage (the wood). I am a bit curious about the rivets. May be the saw is new enough that those are new fangled rustless steel which may put it at 1930s or so.
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# ¿ May 4, 2024 07:27 |
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At least I got the stainless steel rivets correct.
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# ¿ May 5, 2024 05:35 |
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:Are carbide blades good for hand tools in wood though? From a metal working perspective, the benefit of carbide is that it has a much better heat tolerance and keeps it's hardness at very high temps so it doesn't overheat and wear as easily, but can't take as sharp of an edge as a highspeed steel tool. For cutting plastics and stuff like that, steel is often preferred for its sharpness when heat isn't an issue. I'd assume (knowing very little about woodworking) that for hand tools like planes and stuff you'd want a sharp steel edge vs the more durable but duller carbide option. I think that's perfectly fine for a jack plane or any of the more aggressive planes. You'd bulk with carbide and do a final pass with a smoothing plane. I think these are good for production work probably.
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# ¿ May 6, 2024 18:34 |
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Taylor toolworks has PEC squares in metric. Mostly blemish units so not prohibitively expensive. Ditto metric rulers (but you can always get Shinwa stainless for those). Also have a few of these for tapes https://a.co/d/7IGJrDu Not the best because of the double measures, but useful. deimos fucked around with this message at 05:59 on May 11, 2024 |
# ¿ May 11, 2024 05:56 |
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tracecomplete posted:. I wear glasses so I'm a bit more slack on the goggles. I spent $40ish on Zenni Rx safety glasses and I'll never go back. I just swap to them when I start doing any work and keep them in their case on a small shelf. I may get another one with all the lens bells and whistles (more scratch protection, anti glare, anti fogging) since I have found myself using it, I bought my first pair cheap just for that purpose: to see if the Rx worked well in that format and to see if I'd use it. So now I can spend a hundo for the fancier lens ones so I can tackle the most minor annoyances with the current ones. Unfortunately the spendy lenses are the ones that are most useful in some of the scenarios where they're vulnerable to permanent damage (booth painting, heavy demo).
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# ¿ May 11, 2024 16:46 |
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The Trend one with filtered fans seems like it may be helpful as well. (I have a PAPR from welding so I am covered for sanding)
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# ¿ May 13, 2024 03:08 |
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alnilam posted:I wanna get some sharpening stones, I know this is a topic but drat the choices are overwhelming... Basically down to either: I would get a coarse diamond plate as a baseline. Dia makes one that is coarse and extra coarse on either side and is fairly flat. I use it to do rough work on any edge that needs it and, more importantly, to flatten my other stones to something close to a reference flatness. After that I'd get a cheap (as a beginner I gouged my water stones a few times) two grit water stone until you're comfortable using them and you can invest on other stones.
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# ¿ May 13, 2024 18:25 |
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# ¿ May 16, 2024 09:25 |
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I may have leaks but I also reinforced the lid with a circle of 5/8 ply top and bottom. (it's the size of ply I had) I used two buckets and cut the bottom off one (the one that gets the lid) and I added a round of foam insulation to seal fairly well. That way clean up is just separating the buckets without having to remove the lid. The bucket compresses when the hose gets stopped but doesn't burst.
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# ¿ May 13, 2024 22:40 |