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anatomi posted:You can't just say you have a pie safe and not show it. A pie safe:    The top section is probably where you keep either finished pies or pie creation implements. You can see on the lower of the two shelves there's a hook that will latch the left door closed, and a simple latch on the right door to keep it in place well. The same arrangement is on the bottom cabinet as well.   The bottom is where you store hot pies out of the oven, it's vented so they can cool but won't be bothered by bugs, grandchildren, or other ne'er-do-wells. Like the mystery cabinet this was acquired by my grandmother at some point, possibly from her mother or grandmother. No clue. Forgive the dust, this just came out of a shipping container. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Jun 29, 2020 |
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Jun 29, 2020 19:20
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So among the various furniture I just got are a bunch of chairs. They're pretty nice, except they have wicker seats that are almost universally destroyed at this point. It seems like it should be easy enough to remove the wicker and put in a proper wooden seat, but I've never done anything remotely like this. I'll get some photos later up in a bit, but I think the chairs are meant to be a set with the table I also got. Family legend says the table is solid oak of some sort, so the chairs might be as well? It certainly weighs enough that I'd believe it is solid oak.
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Jul 9, 2020 21:12
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This is astonishingly pretty. I'm very impressed. Also I think I understand the thread title now. Olothreutes posted:So among the various furniture I just got are a bunch of chairs. They're pretty nice, except they have wicker seats that are almost universally destroyed at this point. It seems like it should be easy enough to remove the wicker and put in a proper wooden seat, but I've never done anything remotely like this. I'll get some photos later up in a bit, but I think the chairs are meant to be a set with the table I also got. Family legend says the table is solid oak of some sort, so the chairs might be as well? It certainly weighs enough that I'd believe it is solid oak. Here's one of the chairs in question, the wicker in this one is probably the most in tact of them all. It looks like there's a seam in there that holds the wicker over a bit of the frame wood, it might be possible to remove the wicker and then set a new seat on that lip? I'm sure there are a bunch of other ways I'm not thinking of.   Click for more. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Jul 10, 2020 |
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Jul 10, 2020 03:48
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Those are indeed oak. What you are calling wicker is usually called caning and that may help your googling-those are caned chair seats. You can get the caning in sheets and replace it if you want. There is usually a spline that you pound into a groove that holds it together, or sometimes the caning goes in little holes all around. You can probably buy the splines too. You could add an upholstered slip seat or something on top of that, but it may wind up being higher than is comfortable. Maybe set a pillow on top of one and see if it feels right. I’m not sure a flat wooden seat would be all that comfortable, but a stick a board across the top and see how it sits. Thank you. My brain refused to find any word for that except wicker and google was not helping without better terminology. Since I don't have to weave the caning myself I might just do that, although the area that is splined is sort of beat to crap so it might be difficult to repair it. As far as putting a solid seat on it, I had considered doing some shaping with my sander to give it a bit of a depression to more comfortably cradle my rear end. I've never tried either of those things though, I guess it'll be exciting regardless of which path I take. Trying to match the wood seems like something that is really difficult and maybe impossible, so maybe I should just accept that it's going to be different and run with that if I decide to put something in there that isn't caning.
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Jul 11, 2020 23:52
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I just got around to trying out my new circular saw, I grabbed the 15 amp worm drive skilsaw. I'd been using a lovely battery powered thing that I've owned for at least a decade, the difference was astounding. So much nicer. I had to check to see if I'd made contact with the blade yet and found I was like three inches into the cut already and just couldn't feel any board resistance at all.
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Aug 3, 2020 18:46
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I'm not sure about lathe chisels, but there's a surprising amount of overlap in sharpening chat with the GWS kitchen knives thread. They are very serious about sharp steel over there and may have some really good ideas about how to make it happen. Last I checked (years ago) the general advice was to get a knockoff edge pro from Amazon or whatever, it's basically a small fixed angle jig. I've used mine on chisels and it's a bit awkward but does produce sharp chisels.
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Aug 5, 2020 18:59
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Branches have leaves on them, logs do not? Or maybe that's trunk vs. branch and it's only a log once it's off the tree? This is very much like a question in my field, what's the difference between an x-ray and a gamma ray? The answer is where they originate (electron transition or nucleus transition, respectively) but as soon as they leave that origin they are completely indistinguishable from one another and are just high energy photons. I think you can definitely just call it whatever you want. Except a stump.
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Aug 7, 2020 17:43
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What is a flip capable board? Like you can toss it and get a full rotation, or if you flip it over on your deck it's probably still structurally sound?
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Aug 7, 2020 18:33
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Check under your mattress B grade plywood?
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Aug 7, 2020 18:38
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Huxley posted:Log checklist: It must also roll down stairs.
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Aug 7, 2020 20:30
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Sockser posted:I have the Delta Cruzer miter saw and it sits pretty cleanly on a 24" countertop. If I ever need to, for some reason, get a car in that side of my garage, I can tilt it to 60 degrees and it only hangs over the edge of the counter by like 1" or so Because lasers are cool, and having a high cool factor is important for
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Aug 12, 2020 20:02
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Is there a particular brand of saw blade that is a great value or something? I realize now that  blades are probably bad, but blades that cost 10x that amount are real tough to justify unless they last that much longer.I need a new 10" blade for my miter saw, the current one is starting to leave small burn marks on the wood which I think means it's past its useful lifetime. It's definitely not worth sharpening.
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Aug 15, 2020 20:52
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I blame you, woodworking thread. What have you done to me? My neighbor has an arborist over and they are cutting down something, I'm not 100% sure what it is, and running it into a giant chipper. All I can think is "should I be over there trying to save a giant trunk to make boards from?" E: It appears it's some pretty damaged juniper trees. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 16, 2020 18:59
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Spookydonut posted:Save some slices, polish and seal them, make them into clocks. They were pretty far gone, lots of rot. Also I'm super allergic to juniper pollen and foliage, just touching the stuff is enough to give me mild hives. But I'm definitely going to be watching for some other stuff. My neighbor across the fence ripped out a pomegranate tree because they are morons and didn't know what it was. They also cut down a maple in their front yard, but left a bunch of ratty, half dead juniper trees standing so they can drizzle pollen into my yard for 3/4 of the year. There are also a ton of mulberry trees in the neighborhood that are like 60 years old or so, some of them have trunks like six feet wide. If one of those ever goes down I'm buying a chainsaw that day.
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Aug 16, 2020 20:30
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JEEVES420 posted:You think this stuff just grows on trees? I agree with this. There's that adage about perfect being the enemy of good, and the grad school mantra "done is better than perfect." Just make the things and don't worry if you don't use a board perfectly.
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Aug 17, 2020 00:09
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Probably if the paint is very dry and you degloss/scuff sand first? A shellac based barrier coat between the two would maybe be a good idea? But maybe not, I'm not sure about how shellac would do outside under varnish. I'm considering doing this as well, because my wife wants to paint some designs on some small shelves I've made, but likes the color of finished wood as well. Her plan is to paint a bit on the wood and then have me finish it. Unless it might be better off the other way, painting over a finish? These will be indoors, at least.
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Sep 2, 2020 01:30
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She's seen the wood when finished, there are other shelves that I've coated in polyurethane with no paint. They're just in less visible places so she doesn't care as much about ornamentation. I'll make sure to take some pictures of the finished product. My initial position was that varnish is by definition supposed to sit on top of the wood, so it seemed like it would be easy to sit on top of anything else as well. But I'm not sure if there are chemistry reasons that it might react poorly to paint. The shellac tip is a good one, and I'll definitely try to get her to do some color samples for me to finish over/practice on.
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Sep 2, 2020 02:13
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That saw station looks very clean. I'm assuming the miter saw comes out if you need a bunch of outfeed space, which is a neat idea to save some space and I'll probably, uh, borrow that. My garage is pretty small, so clever tricks to save space are good. Doubly so if I don't have to build some sort of double bench that lets me lift one work surface up to reveal another work surface. I'll probably build one anyway, they're pretty neat, but only one. Finish chat: I was definitely under the impression that lacquer was a varnish type. I'm going to have to get a copy of that book and read it, various youtube videos have led me astray.
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Sep 2, 2020 17:08
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Well, they’re not really wrong, but I would say they could be more precise in their language. Plenty of people use ‘varnish’ as a catch all word for ‘film finishes’. Plenty of people use the word ‘lacquer’ in the same way. Under that umbrella, shellac is a ‘spirit varnish’ and lacquer is a ‘solvent varnish’ and polyurethane is an ‘oil varnish.’ When they’re dry, they all look about the same. Yeah, more googling has made it clear that there's very little clarity in a lot of this. I guess the proper term is probably top coat or film finish for the whole category. In that there are a bunch of things like poly, shellac, lacquer, and actual varnish which I guess is its own thing to further complicate matters. I was able to find something about the general characteristics of them all and where you might use them, and decided from there that I'll probably end up using poly for most things since I don't really mind the drying time. I live in a place that is regularly around 10-15% humidity (currently 90 F and 15% humidity, hooray) so things tend to dry really fast here. I've been considering slapping together a small makeshift fume hood sort of deal for finishing small pieces if I'm using something like poly. Just a rubbermaid style container that seals mostly air tight, a small exhaust fan fixed to the top, and a filtered inlet toward the bottom on one of the sides. It shouldn't be too hard to get it set up and would definitely cut down on my dust problems. Oh man do we have dust. So much dust. Ranidas posted:The miter saw bolts to that section, and I can flip it upside down and have the bottom flush with the table top. The rail it's sitting on now is to have the miter saw bed flush with the table top when it's in use. Totally stole the idea from someone else online and mocked it together in sketchup. Ok that's real cool. Definitely going to remember that.
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Sep 2, 2020 22:26
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Slabs have to air dry before going into a kiln, right?
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Sep 8, 2020 16:43
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There's a clear gorilla glue that I use sometimes. It's definitely not fast curing like CA glue is, you absolutely need to clamp. I have no idea if it would work well for wood, I use it mainly to glue glass to more glass because CA glue does not work very well for that application. It does not appear to foam or expand, and is indeed clear.
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Sep 24, 2020 19:12
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Leperflesh posted:https://www.gorillatough.com/products/ It's the clear glue. It forms a strong bond and definitely doesn't expand or foam, I'll vouch for that. It's almost certainly clear or so close that I can't tell the difference even on glass. I don't think I'd use it as a wood glue unless I had nothing else though. It takes forever to dry (the instructions say the set time is 2 hours and full cure is 24 hours) and you definitely need to clamp it. I haven't seen the clear grip stuff so I can't comment on that one.
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Sep 24, 2020 21:22
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KirbyKhan posted:Hi, I don't wood, but I number. My brother does wood and when I saw this I thought of him. You start with a tree of an appropriate size (big) and cut it down. At that point it has a lot of moisture in it and is considered 'green' wood. The green log is sawn into boards of a given size, like the 2x4 that everyone thinks of. Really it can be any size, that's up to the person running the sawmill. There are standard-ish sizes, 2x4 2x6 etc, which are usually grouped as dimensional lumber. Then it has to dry, which takes time and space as you wait for the boards to slowly lose moisture. The wood shrinks while this happens, which is why the board that was cut at 2 inches by 4 inches is not actually those dimensions when you buy it. The shrinking isn't symmetric, and the ends can shrink faster than the core of a board, potentially causing it to crack (wood people call it checking, no clue why) if you aren't careful. Because it takes a while to dry lumber and those boards occupy space green wood is cheaper than dry lumber but much harder to work with, you need to account for shrinkage when building a thing. You can accelerate the process using a kiln, but that costs money too. Once the boards are sawn and dried, that's what most people think of as lumber. It can take months to go from a tree to dried boards. As to why you can get the same boards for different prices, that's normal retail stuff. If your supplier buys huge lots in bulk they might pay less per board foot. Lumber also comes with quality grades, so that warped rear end knotty board should cost less than the straight, knot-free board of the same size, etc. E: or did you mean "how do I not get price gouged by box retailers?" Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Sep 26, 2020 |
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Sep 26, 2020 22:45
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One thing I've seen is to put a piece of scrap wood under your board to raise it up a bit. This works like angling but without the danger level, getting a bit of extra cut length on your miter saw.
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Sep 28, 2020 00:41
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So the arborists were back at my neighbor's house today, bringing down another tree. Turns out they are not juniper, but some sort of cypress instead. I was going to grab the whole trunk but it was full of ants, which is why the tree is coming down. So instead I grabbed a section that doesn't have a billion ants in it, about two feet long and 18 inches wide. Not sure what to do with it at this point but I'll figure it out.
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Oct 3, 2020 23:35
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Mr. Mambold posted:drat shame. Is the lumber eaten up, like termite wise, or just infested? I've heard that's great wood for outdoor furniture & similar projects. I think these are leyland or Arizona cypress? They were planted all over the city as ornamental trees back in the 50s and 60s. I think they've since been banned because of pollen issues but they're still everywhere. They drop these "cones" that are fused together and look like berries and they suck to step on real bad. The majority of the tree was pretty gross looking, lots of gross stuff with ants coming out of seemingly everywhere. Standing several feet away from the trunk I was getting bit by ants that I swear were just falling out of the sky. But I did manage to grab this guy, which appears to be ant free and was from one half of the main fork. I got out the tape measure and it's almost exactly 24 inches long, 16-17 inches wide on the smaller face, up to 18 inches wide on the larger face. 
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Oct 4, 2020 01:12
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:What you gonna make with it? I have no idea. Someone previously mentioned clocks, and I bet I could make a pretty neat clock out of a slice of that. Beyond that... no clue. I'm new to the whole "grab timber from random yards" thing.
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Oct 4, 2020 01:34
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Rutibex posted:I like wood with ant holes in it. Gives my chess pieces more rustic character! Well there's a load of cypress across the street that I can offer you if you pick it up, but you get a free bonus ant farm. I personally think the tree was either sick or had been hit by lightning. One half of the first fork and everything below in the main trunk was in bad shape and full of very angry ants. The other half of that fork seemed fine? Who knows what's in there but it wasn't teeming with ants so I think it's ok. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you split the round in half it will dry better and with fewer checks. Do you mean two 12 inch cylinders? My geometry brain is saying cut perpendicular to the z axis. E: should I try to peel the bark off? Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Oct 4, 2020 |
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Oct 4, 2020 19:26
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CommonShore posted:Ok that's good advice. We have at least one project planned that will be using a full-width slab so even if we make a 1x crosspiece for any planks that we have already cut to width we should probably have a sturdier one handy for things like table tops. Personally if I was expecting to surface very large things with a router and wanted a jig/table that wasn't going to flex I'd build it out of extruded aluminum T-slot instead of wood. Something like this, which you can find from a number of suppliers. 80/20 is the big manufacturer of it, so much that 80-20 is a de facto name for the product (like Xerox machines as a term for all copiers) but you don't have to buy it from them. They make standard sizes of this stuff and standard fittings to allow things to slide in those channels. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Oct 9, 2020 |
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Oct 9, 2020 21:05
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I've seen the same technology used to remove rust from structural steel. It's neat as hell but also correspondingly expensive. I'd be surprised if there wasn't some sort of licensing required for owning a laser with that output. E: Turns out there is no federal licensing requirement for lasers of any power, but you can't market or sell a laser above 5 mW as a pointer. Since this is clearly not a pointing device it's totally legit. That's wild. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Oct 15, 2020 |
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Oct 15, 2020 19:24
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Bioshuffle posted:Is it feasible to do woodworking projects without having a truck or SUV or van? I only have a sedan, but I've heard it's possible to get the people at Home Depot or Lowe's to make the big cuts for you. I always see the wood cutting stations- how does that work? Do you just pay first and ask them to cut it? I only have a sedan and a hatchback and manage well enough. You can rent a truck at the box stores if you really need to move a bunch of sheet goods in tact, but they will actually do a certain number of cuts for you for free, and more if you pay for them at like 50 cents a cut or something like that. Just don't expect them to make precision cuts, ask for bigger than you need and cut to the actual length at home.
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Oct 19, 2020 16:48
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Uthor posted:I wasn't watching closely enough to notice. Figured he had just abstract shapes like these people. Completely off topic, but why the hell does this article insist on calling it the "Gunnies World Record?" Can they not spell Guinness (which is in one of the photos)?
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Oct 21, 2020 01:04
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Super Waffle posted:Shelf update: They're finished just haven't taken any pictures yet. That's real cute. My daughter has a simple wooden duck that she loves that would be easy is make. It's on wheels like the car, but the rear wheels have a small peg on the inner edge that raise the wings up and let them drop as they turn, set 180 degrees apart so the wings alternate. It makes a crazy racket though so maybe don't give that as a gift if you want to remain on good terms with the parents.
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Oct 21, 2020 20:05
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As one of the least well informed people in the thread take this with a grain of salt, but I think that probably means it's made of something like poplar with a veneer of nicer wood over that. Technically still hardwood construction but much cheaper than solid walnut or whatever.
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Oct 25, 2020 18:32
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My home came with a giant planter box made of some sort of 2x*, it's been around for at least five years and shows no signs of going anywhere. It's lined with plastic and I live in the desert though.
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Nov 6, 2020 18:33
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Wallet posted:I made a little hexagon table thing to hold a plant (not pictured, the pot/saucer are still coming). That is a handsome table, imo. The rounded edge on the tabletop looks great and 100% intentional. Probably an instance of the whole "things that drive you nuts and no one else notices" thing.
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Nov 11, 2020 18:14
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. I guess there's always next time.
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Rock My Socks! posted:this is the kind of poo poo that I want to be doing- what exactly do I need? Sander. Sanding is way more important than I realized at first. You can do it by hand with a sanding block (or just a cutoff of some appropriate size that you fix the sand paper to) but for anything large you are going to want a powered sander. As far as saws go, for that project you probably want a table saw or a circular/track saw to make the longer cuts straight. With a circular saw you'll want a fence. Cutting those long edges by hand is doable but keeping them straight and parallel would be real hard for me. Also clamps. I think the general consensus is that the number of clamps to own is N+1, where N is the number you currently own. Alternatively it's S-1, where S is the number of clamps that causes your spouse to leave you. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Nov 11, 2020 |
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Nov 11, 2020 18:55
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I would say no fewer than four clamps to start, they are way more useful than I thought they would be. I recently got four more pipe clamps which are whatever size I need and that's cool. I need to start on some bigger projects soon. I don't have a vise but I really want one. I have a big 4 foot level and several smaller ones. I find that I probably would use a 2 foot level a lot, the 4 foot is pretty large for most of my projects.
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Nov 27, 2020 23:01
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AAAAA! Real Muenster posted:Perfect, thank you. This is probably on the other, more comprehensive lists that others posted but I thought about what else I have around from other various projects that I take for granted. I have a miter saw from probably a decade ago, it goes largely unused these days and anything I can do with it I could also do with a hand saw with little trouble. I have a circular saw that I use a lot more. I would like a proper fence to go with it for long cuts, but for the moment I can do things like clamp my level to the workpiece because I know it's straight. I have a bow saw, a coping saw, dozuki, and like three "regular" hand saws that came in the shed when I bought my house. I (ab)use the dozuki for most things. Random orbital sander and discs. Sanding is way more important than I realized when I first got started. There's enough that having a powered sander is probably worthwhile for anything that isn't elf staircase sized or smaller. For a decade or more I had a cordless drill that I used as both a drill and a driver. I recently upgraded because the batteries were toast and got a drill and driver combo kit. It is so, so nice to be able to drill a pilot hole and then just drive the screw in without having to open the chuck, remove the bit, insert the driver bit, etc. Just pick up the other tool and go. Highly recommend having both. It's absolutely possible to do it with just a drill, but having seen the light I wouldn't recommend it. If you plan to use screws for a lot beyond pocket screws maybe get a countersink bit. Screw heads just sticking out is a hazard in addition to being unsightly, and trust me you can't really fake having one by drilling a recess for the screw head with a larger bit. All you get is a bunch of tearout and disappointment.
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Nov 30, 2020 01:03
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So I have no idea what to tell my family I want for presents, so I'm thinking about just asking for certain tools. I poked around on ebay for some old #5/6 bench planes and most of them are pretty expensive (~$75+), or at least more than I'd expect someone to drop on a present. I know that Japanese style pullsaws are nice and comparatively cheap, I love my dozuki. Are Japanese style hand/block planes the same way? If I ask for one of those am I setting myself up to be extremely disappointed and frustrated?
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Dec 3, 2020 18:37
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