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Drawers are just solid boxes instead of having an extra piece in the front, yeah?
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Apr 11, 2018 03:31
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My girlfriend wants a "thing" for her nail polish, so I put this together in Sketchup real quick  Pretend all those red cylinders are nail polish, and pretend I had the attention span to make rabbets for the back in Sketchup. Shouldn't be any problems putting a thing together like this, yeah? What would be the best way to hang a thing like this? Too thin to cut a keyhole, too small to justify a french cleat. Can I get away with some dinky picture frame hangers?
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Apr 13, 2018 03:02
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Some quick math works that out to about 8.5 pounds of nail polish, which seems absurd, but 55 bottles @ ~2.5 oz each. Figure the wood would be another 15-20? I'd rather not screw it into my wall if I can get away with it, and I was planning on just doing the sides with glue and brads. Do you think it'd be totally critical to use screws?
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Apr 13, 2018 03:22
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swampface posted:I've used aluminum french cleats (you can also find them as z-clips) like this: poo poo, I never knew what these things were. Ran to home depot and bought a big ol chunk of it. Thanks mate!
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Apr 13, 2018 19:55
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A series of compounding mistakes late in the game took me from this  To this  So there’s a load of wasted time
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Apr 14, 2018 20:58
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Phone posted:what happened D: Nailed one of those front ledge pieces in crooked. No big deal, hammer it off, cool. Can’t get one of the brads out, try to hammer it down, it goes wonky instead of straight in. Cool whatever I can sand it flush later Nail it back on loving upside down. Repeat, now there’s three hosed up nails hanging out Nail it back on straight and in the correct orientation, cool Decide that rounding over the corners would be nice. Get out my router. Forget that those ledge pieces are only 1/4” thick. Drive a round over bit straight through that same ledge. Pound a beer in anger, knock the entire thing apart with a framing hammer, pack everything up and call it a day.
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Apr 14, 2018 23:40
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bolind posted:I'm trying to illustrate why it's a bad idea... so I guess we agree? Well you’ve got the screws in the wrong side of the board So like, Double not how you do it
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Apr 18, 2018 15:10
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Neighbors house got torn down. Backyard is full of debris wood  What do y’all make of that? Worth carting six feet into my house and removing all the nails from? There’s like uhhhh an entire rowhome worth of whatever this wood is, in various sizes, some 2x4, some 1x12, some absolute massive loving like 6x10x12’ers But they’ve been sitting out in the rain for a while and they’re all full of nails and I’m not even sure what kind of wood they are Edit: 
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May 17, 2018 05:03
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armorer posted:Where's the house, and roughly how old is it? Near me old joists like that are often heart pine. Philly, and since it’s a rowhome, probably shares age with my house which is from the 20s I think?
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May 17, 2018 13:06
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armorer posted:Take all of it if you can get it free. It's probably heart pine and worst case you can sell it for more than you'd think. If it were me, I'd take all the large pieces for sure. That’s a uhhhh lot of wood 
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May 17, 2018 13:54
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Nephzinho posted:Anyone have plans for a MAME cabinet they can speak to personally? Seems like there are a ton of variations out there, some of which look very janky with weird edges and modular components. Looking to just make a classic clean cabinet to put Asteroids and/or Pacman on. Hey there. I’m like, practically a professional cabinet builder at this point, making weird bespoke cabinets for indie games, so I’ve probably got your back here (and we can take it to PMs if you’d rather not clutter the thread) What are you looking for in a mame cab? 1p/2p/4p? Trackballs? Lighting? Do you want a full size cab or a bartop or a cabaret? In all honesty, cabinets are kind of stupid easy to build. Cut the side profiles out of a sheet of plywood, nail some braces in from the edges offset by plywood thickness and a little bit more for flair, and then just attach the two sides with a shitload of rectangles forever and ever. Best place to start is to figure out how many players you want and what size screen you’re going to use, and then kinda sketch things out from there. gently caress plans, design your own weird fuckin thing, put a kegerator in it or something Since we’re talking about it, here’s some weird cabinets I’ve built  this one is still not quite done, and I totally hosed up the pocketholes by not paying attention, but we’re hosting a game jam for it and it’s going into a weird arts space in Brooklyn and it’s gonna be all lit up and fancy and gay as all hell  This is my baby and how I learned how to make wood into boxes and how to manage electronics and stuff and I designed it too big to enter and exit my house without being completely disassembled so now it lives in my storage unit 99% of the time
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May 21, 2018 17:23
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Nephzinho posted:Really I just want to make a classic looking machine, potentially with a working coin slot, with a relatively small screen (20" CRT probably), just to play Asteroids/Pacman. So many designs I see have such fancy open layouts that make it more comfortable to play multiplayer... but they don't feel like arcade cabinets. I understand the appeal of the CRT but like It’s ~90% not worth the headache. You’ll be able to make the whole thing a lot smaller and a lot lighter and a lot less top heavy if you just grab some 21” lcd. The only thing you really need plans for is the side profile pieces, like I said earlier, everything else is just screwed onto the sides either via pocketholes or brace pieces, like this:  In any case, this would probably be a decent setup, though I don’t think it’ll have enough room to support a CRT 
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May 21, 2018 18:14
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Why didn’t you just go all out and make a pantorouter
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May 28, 2018 04:04
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I don’t know if his personal stuff is edited different than the pop woodworking videos, but I always hated the flow of them “Alright now we’re going to make this cut” *puts on eye protectjon* *puts on hearing protection* *lines up circular saw* *takes five seconds of cut in real time* ... *removes hearing protection and glasses* Now we need to crosscut this piece down to 14 inches *puts on glasses* Etc And it’s just a lot of information that could be conveyed much more expediently
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Jun 16, 2018 18:01
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Fuckin humidity Painted something with some leftover Rustoleum oil-based enamel bullshit paint Tuesday afternoon Still loving tacky enough this morning that I’m leaving fingerprints in it God drat This sucks It was supposed to be a birthday present for tomorrow E: can says it’s a 9 hour dry time at 70 degrees and low humidity, I experienced about 36 hours for a full cure in the winter painting Something with a space heater in the room I think I might just chuck this can of paint so I’m not tempted to use it again Sockser fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Jun 28, 2018 |
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Jun 28, 2018 21:49
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Bought 50-some original arcade marquees off a dude on Craigslist for $350, made my first lightbox as a birthday present for my best friend, planning on doing the same with most of the others and selling them on Etsy or conventions or something Turned out pretty alright, it’s just a big box made of MDF and all But Jesus gently caress Rustoleum, the paint looks like poo poo because I thought the paint wouldn’t take five loving days to dry and I needed to finish it up and handle it and leave all sorts of marks all over it
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Jul 9, 2018 18:45
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Rustoleum spray paint is terrible, and you should avoid it in the future. Jimmy Diresta says it has to do with the solvents in the can, and doing multiple coats. If you do the second coat within a certain amount of time, you're fine, but if you wait too long, you've got to let the paint fully cure before putting another coat on, or the solvents in the can will mess up the previous layer. This was brush-on Rustoleum, you can see it in the back of my photo. Not even sure why I bought that, probably the cheapest flat black or something. Anyone got good recommendations on a flat black
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Jul 11, 2018 01:45
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Bondematt posted:Table saw stuff My dad runs a craftsman from the 80s, maybe late 70s, and it’s a colossal piece of poo poo and everything is rickety and the fence doesn’t hold and I’m straight up loving terrified of using it but the man knows all the quirks to it and can get every cut to come out perfectly every single time and it’s absolutely amazing I went through the table saw shopping process recently, and I ended up with the Dewalt 7491 link I was committed to having a rolling stand because I kinda store it in my back sunroom and exclusively use it outside, so your usecase might be a bit different; it does store pretty conveniently. The rack and pinion fence is basically the best goddamn thing and is what sold me on it over the comparable Rigid or the Bosch offerings
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Jul 25, 2018 15:26
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Bondematt posted:That 7491 was actually the first one I was really thinking about, that fence and rip size is insane on a jobsite saw. If I had even slighlty less space that would have been the no-brainer choice. How stable do you feel it is, and does the smaller table size ever get in the way? It's not really that bad, other than the distance from the front of the table to the edge of the blade. There's lots of cuts that I feel fine doing on the fullsize Sawstop they have at my hackerspace that just feel weird when I've only got half a foot of lead space, like ripping really long pieces etc I still need to build sleds and stuff, though, so there's probably some stuff I could do to fix it I also have a neat little outfeed that just hooks onto the frame
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Jul 26, 2018 04:52
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A bit late at this stage buttttttt Run a block plane over the bottom to take out the high spot Chamfer the bottom edges so you have something pick up
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Jul 30, 2018 06:08
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Putrid Grin posted:This might be a really stupid question, but where do I go to buy furniture grade plywood in hardwood flavors like walnut? I live north of Philadelphia, and while I found a charming sawmill where I can get lumber I have no clue where to start looking for sheet goods. Philly has been pretty not great to me for being able to buy any nicer woods Your best bet, quite honestly, is to just make a trip out to Lancaster and stock up out there
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Aug 20, 2018 02:32
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Were it me, I’d totally turn over in the middle of the night or struggle to turn off my alarm in the morning and bust that top piece right off
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Aug 29, 2018 06:52
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Does it leave burned edges or discolor the wood at all? I thought about having some veneer cut with one once, but to get all the veneer to lay flat and in position to be cut seemed like it would be tricky for someone who didn't do it every day. Cover it in blue tape I pay a $30+ membership fee plus, I think, $27 for every hour on the laser, any of the four or five lasers my hackerspace has I did do a 1.5hr engrave job once. That fuckin sucked and was boring.
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Sep 14, 2018 00:58
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I don’t think I’ve ever adjusted the laser to account for the tape, but I guess I’m usually doing acrylic and not wood Also doing a living hinge out of 3/8” sounds insane, do they still work well?
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Sep 14, 2018 03:22
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Hasselblad posted:I think you may have been better off with the old table saw. What HP was it? Personally would rather have too much tool than suffer with something underpowered. Especially if doing dadoes. Not to mention you will have more clean up to do with a contractor saw spewing dust everywhere, rather than a table you can hook to a shop vac. My dewy jobsite saw has a dust collection port underneath and a second one on the blade guard that I could theoretically use if I ever had the blade guard on
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Sep 16, 2018 18:38
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I got a gently used ryobi 10” compound miter for like $80 off craigslist. Kinda wish I’d spring for a sliding one though.
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Sep 22, 2018 22:52
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The sliding just gives you more cut capacity. That’s it. If you ever think you’ll need to cut something 10” wide or more, sliding is good If you get a stationary because you don’t think you will, you will immediately need to cut a wide board and regret your purchase
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Sep 23, 2018 16:40
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Bob Clagett from ILTMS just surrounded his miter saw with cabinets and drawers
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Sep 24, 2018 18:11
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Friend bought a house that had a trash compactor. Trash compactor died after like 6 months. He wants to replace that hole in his cabinets with a hideaway cabinet for a garbage can, and I'm staying at his house rent free for a few weeks with nothing to do, so doing this project has become one of my projects Got everything basically sorted out, making a kinda lovely cabinet door by edge joining a couple of pieces of poplar and staining them to sort of match his other cabinets, but god drat why do router bits gotta be so expensive? Wanted to get one of those nice wide ogees to kind of match his other cabinets but gently caress if I'm dropping like $80 on a bit I'll use like 3 times. He's getting a 1/4" roundover on his cabinet door and he's going to have to like it. Also the hinges I got require a metric forstner bit which is annoying as well.
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Oct 4, 2018 02:51
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Mr. Mambold posted:Grizzly always had reasonably priced router and shaper bits in the past. Hope you've got a drill press for the hinges. Also, I'd put a slide-out shelf on the bottom, makes it more convenient. I’ve got one of those mini drill presses that just chocks into a hand drill which is sub-optimal but should work And yeah, the dude had bought a little uhhh bin on a slide and had not gotten any farther into figuring out the situation so I’m building around that Also this loving opening is a hell of a trapezoid but I think it’s kinda going alright so far  Also may have cobbled together a pretty decent match on the stain
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Oct 4, 2018 20:01
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I bought a miter saw stand for the few times a year I need to set it up somewhere other than my shop and now I’m pretty sure I’ll never build a miter station
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Oct 6, 2018 14:58
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Hey I made a lovely half cabinet to fill in a hole in a friend’s kitchen from where a trash compactor used to live  Did an okay job matching the stain. Door could’ve used an extra 1/4” in each dimension to account for how off-kilter the space is. Overall a decent learning experience I suppose
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Oct 8, 2018 02:23
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My dads saw and kind of where I started was on a craftsman from (I think) the late 70s-early 80s And that thing is a huge piece of poo poo My dad has been working with it for 40 years so he knows all the quirks and all the dumb poo poo and he’s able to get it set up just right for quality work every time, but When I was shopping for a saw of my own, I fuckin steered clear of that. Ended up with a dewalt contractor saw that I’m mostly happy with. Once I have a house I can build a real table around it and then I’ll probably actually enjoy using it.
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Oct 17, 2018 15:56
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That Works posted:So I just found a really strange thing and maybe shouldn't question it. Are you in Philly? I dealt with a dude with pretty much that exact MO for a couple things, though I wasn't spending Dewalt money
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Oct 19, 2018 17:31
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My old shop had one hanging out in a box that they showed people when they did their woodshop clearance classes But turning it into a clock or something would be fuckin dope And just keep adding clocks to the wall like an old timey newroom every time someone trips it Also I can’t figure out what the gently caress you’re describing for how this dude was standing
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Nov 7, 2018 17:43
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JEEVES420 posted:lovely cropped picture but you get the idea Is Is that a featherboard And he’s What the gently caress
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Nov 7, 2018 18:44
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Feenix posted:I’m kind of tired of the mental gymnastics and tedious clampery of constantly trying to jig poo poo for using my router to ‘bowl out’ trays and stuff. The filming is pretty awful on the Popular Woodworking videos but https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naMlbjHKh08 or go buy the Kreg one Sockser fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Nov 8, 2018 |
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Nov 8, 2018 00:07
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I’ve used CA glue in a couple of woodshop classes where we were making a box in like two hours and didn’t have a ton of time to get everything clamped and set It works It’s not great but it works
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Nov 10, 2018 23:02
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Hey thread. Fine woodworking this is not. I make arcade cabinets and arcade games. Next month I'm doing a panel at a convention where the plan is for me to drag all of the chunks of the cabinet down in pieces and assemble it on stage while talking about how to build one. However, I'm going to need to do a bit of on-the-fly engineering while it's being built that I'd love to sort out by dryfitting it beforehand. It's basically a big box anchored by the sides, which get some 3/4 x 3/4 cleats that all the front panels screw into  (not my photo but a decent illustration of what I'm talking about) How good/bad of an idea is it to hold this thing together with hot glue while I try to reason some things out? Or is there a better way to hold it all together without going all in on screwing it together?
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Dec 15, 2018 21:46
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Yeah I'm just carting all the individual panels to the .... panel, so there's some visual stuff going on while we're talking So the idea is I'm going to just kind of dry fit everything in my garage (mostly so I can figure out how the screen is going to mount) and then knock it back down to panels when it's time to lug it to the presentation I could just screw everything together and then unscrew it and reassemble but I feel like I'm just going to be weakening my joints a bit doing that
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Dec 15, 2018 22:09
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