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NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Good deal?
The included tools are worth that much by themselves right?

Woodworking tools - Lathe
https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/tls/d/montgomery-village-woodworking-tools/7123156909.html

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NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
I love it! Are you going to build a drawer to match? :v:

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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cakesmith handyman posted:

Guys I think I've found the ultimate solution to the workshop layout dilemma



You joke but this is my shop. It's a weird T shape that nothing fits quite right for a permanent home, so every tool and work surface is on casters.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
I made a plant stand!



I "cut" the tapers using the belt sander and I attempted the lap in the middle using my dozuki and chisel. Mad respect for people who do kumiko by hand.

Maple with shellac.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
I have the harbor freight Hercules 12" sliding minter saw, it's pretty good. Better than expected. My biggest quibble is that it's huge; needs 36" front to back. The dust collection also really blows. But it's probably the most capable saw you can get for 300. Personally I want to sell it and get the bosch because I just don't have the space.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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I 3d printed a template for a series of trays I plan on making.


NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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I've mostly used it to print knobs and handles for jigs. If anyone has some other good uses for the intersection of 3d printing and woodworking I'd love to see.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
I 3d printed my tray template because I tried making one out of mdf with a jigsaw and spindle sander and I absolutely suck at sanding to a line while keeping an edge straight. It ended up all wavy. So I made the apprentice do it.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

OgreNoah posted:

It's actually 29"x56", long enough for two people to a side.. The pin is set between two hinges, and it's about 1/2" diameter steel pin.


I think the pin will work, for a while. The hole will oval out and the legs will get wobbly, especially if someone bumps them while they're deployed. If you could epoxy a steel bushing of matching diameter in that could work...

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

actionjackson posted:

How decent is thermofoil for a cabinet that is pre-painted?

since I realized that I can't really replace my cabinets without having to replace the countertop, and I'm not doing that since I just had that put in last year, I'm trying to find doors similar to the high gloss white voxtorp with the recessed handle


We redid our kitchen with ikea last year and the cabinets have been holding up great. Went with the glossy white for the uppers. I think the thermofoil covered particle board is probably the most moisture resistant.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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Truly we live in the future. That's incredible!

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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Made another thing. Box that fits little trays from ikea. First time trying a three way miter, came out pretty okay.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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Destined for firewood? Work around the holes? Burn down my house because it's infested?

This is pile of 6/4 air dried poplar I picked up for too cheap.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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Sigh. Sounds like a lesson learned: don't buy air dried lumber from a dude on Craigslist. It was only 50 bucks, so I can't cry too much. Should burn nicely?

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
My shiny new crosscut sled is built on a 3/4 base. Can't quite cut through my stock on a 45 :negative:

My miter gage blows, so I'm thinking of making a pseudo miter gage jig thing.

For reference:



Building a bench with mitered miter corners. Plan was to reinforce with a large plywood spline, capping the ends with walnut.

If this is a terrible idea tell me now before I cut the miter.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

serious gaylord posted:

Are you putting any dowels in there too?

I'd be concerned about the strength of the joint for a bench, even with splines.

Guess we'll find out! I ended up planing it down, so it's 1 5/8 thick. Plan is for 1/2" plywood splines, 1" wide in the miter.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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Splines!

Lots of fettling still do to get everything to close up tight.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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I built this cart for my dust collector and cyclone. No filter or bag for the fine dust, I just vent that out a window. I live in a moderate climate and a drafty house so blowing all my conditioned air out of the basement isn't a big deal. If it's heating season and the gas furnace is running I crack a window to avoid a backdraft.

Unfortunately things like this happen when my trash can gets full:

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
I posted a few days ago about putting splines in the mitered corners of a waterfall bench I was making. The first attempt wasn't great, I forgot to clamp a piece onto the sled and it slipped and tore out a huge chunk. So the bench ended up shorter and less wide than I wanted.

But I think it looks pretty good after all.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
You need a nail puller for one thing, or just clip the nail flush with some side cutters. I'd try scraping the glue off and make a clamping jig to fit around the point at the top, and just reglue it

Or just clamp off the shelves.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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One day build, a cubby box to fit an awkward space by our back door to hold dog things.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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Christmas is coming:

Tray for one of the mothers. Several firsts on this one. First time using a coping saw, cut the handles out (I used a forstner for the rounds) and a rasp to shape them. First time resawing a board. Had 20" of 4/4 walnut leftover and picked up a new blade for the bandsaw. Ended up with two 3/8 halves so I think it went well.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
I have the harbor freight version of that jig and it's a flaming pile of crap. Loose tolerances means it's not truly self centering, leads to pieces just slightly off. Very frustrating. I'm leaning towards a dowelmax, seems like it could do everything a domino can do.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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They look kinda like end mills?

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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Cannon_Fodder posted:

Either way, I'll be glad when I can find a decently priced 14" 2hp machine.

One day.

:razz:

Can I ask why 2hp? I scored an older Rikon 1 hp, and I've resawed a 12" wide jatoba board without it bogging down. Not sure what I could cut that I would ever need more power.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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Noooo you asked the question, now we get to hear GEMorris proselytize about bandsaws again.

I made a stool.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

HolHorsejob posted:

What have you found to be the most broadly useful jigs/equipment to make for a table saw? I'm working on a crosscut sled, miter sled, jointing sled, assorted push sticks/blocks, zero-clearance insert, and project-specific workholding jigs this weekend. Projects immediately over the horizon: End grain cheese board & coaster sets, side grain dough board, plywood/hardwood bookcase, picnic table, kitchen cupboard, and hopefully prod/entice my housemates to replace their jacked-up back deck stairs.

My biggest issues usually revolve around getting safe, repeatable cuts in comparatively long/thin workpieces, getting jointed surfaces in long/thin stock, and getting precise cuts in small workpieces.

Oh, and how do you get a no-slip workholding surface that doesn't introduce too much squish/unevenness? I've been cutting up no-slip carpet pad and putting that under clamped stock, but I want something I can just apply to a crosscut sled or push block. I'm wondering if there's like thin-coat rubbery paint or spray-on rubbery surface or something like that.


I remember seeing something about how traditional wooden cheesemaking equipment is far less likely to produce cheese with harmful microorganisms when starting with unpasteurized milk. I can't imagine how wooden cutting boards can be sanitary for anything but cutting up stuff that's going to be cooked immediately after, but this wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong about stuff like this.

If you want something to prevent your workpiece from sliding on your crosscut sled, you could glue some sandpaper to it. Never been an issue for me, just use a stop block.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
As a mostly power tool user who dabbles in hand tools, I opted for Rob Cosman's basic bench. If you have a table saw and a hatchback you can make this bench. The top is 4 layers of 3/4 mdf and the legs are 18mm baltic birch laminated. I kitted mine out with matchfit dovetail clamp tracks. Tons of great work holding options for planing, routing, and sanding.

Was one of the cheapest bench designs I came across when I was researching (in covid times, sheet goods haven't gone up nearly as much as lumber)

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

revtoiletduck posted:

I'm planning to make the Cosman workbench over the holidays as well.

Do you happen to know why he uses a stapler when laminating the plywood? Would brad nails work as well?

I wish I had an answer for you. I used brad nails :v:

I'll also say that laminating the mdf was a giant pain and didn't come out as flat as I had wanted, I think I used too much glue and it created a pocket that couldn't squeeze out. I made a terrible mess.

NomNomNom fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Dec 21, 2020

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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A pile of prezzies.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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Any tips from the hivemind on preventing the end grain from soaking up glue? That maple board I posted has highlights on the glue lines. I don't think I could have sanded any more. :negative:

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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Yeah you'll be fine dude, my problem is that the end grain is visible and shows where the glue soaked in.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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Butt joints are stronger than everyone fears, at least for a while. In something low impact like a picture frame they can last a long time.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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Beautiful work all.

Made some coasters:


NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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Should have said the species. One set is maple with walnut strips, the other is beech with walnut and jatoba. Jatoba is weird, it's almost like mdf with short interlocked fuzzy grain. Got lucky and scored a nice piece at my lumber yard's scrap bin.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
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I want a spokeshave to make square things rounder, what should I buy?

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Thread Bae posted this article on finishing:
Anarchist's Finishing Guide

And it's got me thinking about "healthy" finishes. I made up a batch of beeswax and mineral oil and I love shellac (but apparently methanol is bad). What other low VOC products are out there?

I like finishes that:
1) I can apply inside (won't kill me or others)
2) look good
3) hard to mess up

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Isn't denatured alcohol just ethanol with methonol?

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

Toast posted:

Yeah I'm doing the similar duststopper method from home depot atm. It definitely helps but I want a proper solution at some point for my bigger machines.

Bigger is better, even for small shops. The harbor freight "2" hp is the gold standard for cheap dust collectors. Have a plan for either exhausting it outside of plan to upgrade the filter, the bags most come with are worthless/don't filter finely enough.

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NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Took my new Wen track saw in its maiden voyage yesterday. Went well all things considered, first time ever using a track saw. I'm pretty sure my complaints are due to user error and not the saw's cheapness.

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