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Reggie Died posted:Love this. I was actually just at Ikea looking for a bedframe, then figured I could probably make my own for less money. You've likely figured wrong. Economy of scale and all that. Buying from Ikea is always cheaper than building. A better reason to build is that you want something that is not readily available or you're knocking off designer stuff. I'm working on a dining table right now made of laminated 2x4s. It is based around three 10.5" wide (7 layer) 6' long sections glued and framing nailed together which will attached together with 1/4" spacers between them. I sent each of them through a planer many, many times (could only remove <1/32 at a time) to get the top completely flat and the overall thickness down to 3.25". Each part weighs prob 40lbs, so this sucked. I should have taken pics, but I'll get some next week. The other 5 sides are unfinished aside from breaking the edges of the 2x4s. The ends of each section are done in a nice snaggletooth pattern (taking advantage of Home Depots lack of cutting precision). Going to stain it white and clear coat it. If it all works out it should feel awesomely sturdy and look really expensive. $50 in wood, $70 in renting the nail gun and nails, $180 in steel for the legs, $60 in hardware to put it together so far. Hoping to keep it all under $500 and I REALLY hope the wood doesn't do something crazy and break itself apart as it settles and ages. I figure a similar table from DWR would be $2K+.
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Aug 23, 2008 19:11
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Did the final wood working part of this project yesterday in my work's machine shop and borrowed my friend's truck to get them home. Didn't go quite as well as planned. Being more familiar with machining than wood working, I designed parts that basically need machined features to work together, but much larger than usual billet aluminum or plastic parts I design at work. This presented a problem with the equipment I had at my disposal. I needed to drill holes to mount the legs but the components were too big to get on a mill and our drill press didn't have the Z reach to be of much use. Precision then fell out the window as I resorted to hand drilling a 1/2" spade bit through 9" of fir 12 times. This lead to a lot of crooked holes, some semi-fixable blowout/breaks in the wood, but fortunatly nothing messing up the top surface. I had to give up at this point of making it "pefect" -- and as such it is not really sellable (which is fine since I'm planning on using it), but it's not a terrible prototype. The crookedness of the holes made me rethink my leg attachment method and switch from bolts to threaded studs. It is way easier to turn a nut on a crooked stud than a bolt threading in crooked into a threaded hole -- crossthread city. Picked up some staining and finishing stuff today at lunch and have started on those processes this evening. Hoping to have the top stain down by bedtime. On with the terrible pictures courtesy of my camera phone -- my trusty 5 year old Canon S1 IS recently gave up on me. The three pieces (72x10.5x3.25 each) -- loving heavy  Snaggletooth ends   The drill goes in the right spot  Sometimes they come out right spot   Sometimes  
Blooot fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Aug 29, 2008 |
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Aug 27, 2008 05:01
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Two layers of "white oak" stain later. Going to start laying on clear tomorrow. Obligatory Batmobile angle 
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Aug 29, 2008 04:34
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Assuming your wood is thick enough (>9/16") Try McMaster-Carr PN 17725A41. These are invisible hinges you can mount in simple drilled holes. The steel invisible hinges on the same catalog page are stronger and have a more positive attachment method, but you'll have to router/machine the correct elongated mortises. http://www.mcmaster.com
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Nov 9, 2008 07:35
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