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dyne posted:does anyone have any tips for staining and sealing a large desk? I'm more worried about being able to polyurethane a large surface and have it come out even and without brush strokes. I've made 2 desks before and using a little brush takes forever For staining use a rag and some rubber gloves rather than any sort of brushes. Always test on scraps first to make sure you have the right shade obviously. Brushed on shellac is fairly durable and easy to apply, when you get 2-3 coats on you level it out with some 0000 steel wool and then french polish several more coats on (this goes quickly)for a kick rear end finish. If you want to spend a week or more and get something spectacular you can put a weak shellac wash on first (dilute the shellac with rubbing alcohol and brush on) and then french polish all the way into a mirror like surface. The only drawback to this is you'll never want to put a martini on it without a serving tray for a coaster- alcohol will damage the finish. The spray on lacquer is a good choice but make sure you have a respirator, even if you're outdoors. If you're in the garage open the door, switch off the water heater first and make sure noone's smoking.
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Oct 2, 2008 04:08
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You want a table saw fer sure. Cuts your big pieces down to size and also makes a great build table. I'd recommend finding a good name brand one used over a cheaper newer one. A band saw is a good thing to have as well, it allows you to make curved cuts on small/thin stock and also to resaw thick pieces of wood into thinner pieces. A drill press, no matter how many times you sight up a hand drill or whatever jigs/gimmicks you make to drill straight, it'll never be perfect so a drill press is good for that. Also sanding drum attachments make it worth having. A lot of guys will say you need to have a planer, jointer or thickness sander but depending on what you're doing it might not be a necessity, at least at first. You definitely want to include a hand plane or two in your hand tools collection though. They're great for leveling and smoothing after you make cuts and can be used to (reduce the) thickness wood as well. Buy this stuff as you need it and also when it's on sale: Measuring devices, a few different squares, a small digital micrometer/caliper if you're doing anything small scale or want nice tight joinery, a palm sander or belt sander for larger work, hammers, mallets, chisels, a full set of screwdrivers. Get sandpaper whenever you can and keep it in the house or somewhere air conditioned lest the glue go bad on the sheets. A cabinet scraper is also good and though it's harder on your hands, it will save it's cost in sandpaper and then some. And clamps. Buy them every time you see them on sale, even if you don't think you need them. Just remember the golden rule: every tool in the shop is a hammer, except chisels. Those are screwdrivers.
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Oct 19, 2008 21:04
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JEEVES420 posted:Have you personaly run into this problem? I have always kept my sandpaper in my Garage...in Texas and I have never had any problems.  Right now it's all in a box under one of the kitchen cabinets but when I get my own place there's going to be a file cabinet drawer with manilla folders labeled for each grit.
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Oct 21, 2008 03:43
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Measure and draw out where you want the hinges to go. Then Lay the hinge across the wood the way it's going to go and carefully trace around it with an exacto knife. Take a sharp chisel as close to the size of the area you're mortising and gently tap it, flat side to the outside of the mortise until it's as deep as you want it. Use the exacto score-lines as guides. Once you've got the cutout all scored gently work the chisel with the grain going both directions until it's just deep enough for the hinge. Put the hinge in the mortise and then take a sharpie/pencil and mark the screw holes. Using a drill press or hand drill on low speed make a pilot hole a hair smaller than the shaft portion of the screw you're using (ignoring the threads). DIY network's website probably has some videos online if you dig around a bit on doing this. Now your turn. How did you do the dovetails? Loving the maple/black walnut thing, especially the top.
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Nov 8, 2008 22:05
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wormil posted:Nice little box. This, this right here ^. I start at 400 then work through the ones you listed, 320 the first time I do it to a new/new-to-me blade. For the record I've shaved patches off of my arm before. You can get a decent angle guide for sharpening or under $20 at either Woodcraft or on line. Very nice job on the hinges, by the way. Locating the door portion has been tricky for me as well. For something smaller like that maybe eyeballing for center and taping the thing in place. Also I just noticed I had recommended an exacto for scribing, they actually make cabinet maker's scribes but you could sharpen say the pointy side of a school compass and use that just as well and it might be easier to go around the hinge.
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Nov 11, 2008 06:10
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wormil posted:Mehler also told us a about a blade brake that would stop a blade within like one rotation of coming in contact with fingers, making it nearly impossible to cut your fingers off. The downside is that it ruins the blade but I'll trade a blade for my fingers any day.
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Nov 13, 2008 18:44
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Golden War posted:Well I'll need to do a lot of sanding to get the inlays to be flush so that would mess up the stain job wouldn't it? I'd recommend a small, *sharp* plane followed cabinet scraper if you have/could get one, you'd get better control over what area and how much of the wood is getting removed, and no grit marks whatsoever after you're done. One of the advantages of shellac, if you wind up also using it to finish the whole project is that the coats of finish will amalgamate into one another where most other finishes wind up separated. What this means is no line where there's an extra layer over your inlay. Also if you thin it a little with rubbing alcohol/everclear it should soak straight down into the wood a ways, sealing it. You can get a can of bullseye shellac at the big box store which is sufficient for most woodworking. Look up "french polishing" for how to use it to get a deep, glasslike finish on flat surfaces. If you do use shellac/urethane, then simply blue tape the area off if it's strips, thin it a little and lightly brush it on so that it doesn't seep under the tape (also with shellac it could tint it if left on.) Also don't leave the stain soak like the directions may say. it could work in under whatever sealer you have sideways and make a mess. Get some neoprene gloves and a rag, and use that to rub the stain in one coat at a time until you get the right color. As always practice on scraps first. mcrandello fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Nov 18, 2008 |
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Nov 18, 2008 23:11
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I've never used Danish oil before but this guy here appears to have done it: http://www.epinions.com/content_140061281924 And recommended it for open pored woods...
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Nov 18, 2008 23:48
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You can use doorskin plywood as the back of pretty much any wardrobe. A possibly cheap method of construction might be to use tongue&groove cedar closet lining braced with cedar 1x2's held on with brads, and a 2x2 pine post in each corner, glued and screwed all around. Frame the outside with 1x2's or a nice floor/wall molding held in with brads/glue to hide the less sightly screwheads, and then cover the whole thing in shellac or polyurethane outside. Leave the inside bare obviously for bug killing properties. Top and bottom can be the plywood of your choice, at least 3/4" on the bottom and 1/2" on the top. If you're painting it black you could possibly use thin birch or doorskin plywood for the front, just be sure to brace very well all the way around the door opening so that it doesn't flex and look all flimsy when using the door. Your tools would include a few pipe clamps borrowed from someone, hammer, screwdriver/drill, carpenter's square, mitre box or mitre saw rented, a buzz saw and a sanding block or palm sander, maybe a handplane for levelling up the sides you cut with the buzz saw. mcrandello fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Nov 25, 2008 |
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Nov 25, 2008 22:39
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Good point. I suppose don't glue the cross braces and don't shove the tongue and groove all the way tight. I didn't realize cedar moved so much. I have a similar wardrobe but it was factory made and they glued a bunch of dimensioned strips together to make the sides/front of it, and I think they did that trick of alternating grain direction to prevent massive warpage. One of the doors did crack but that had more to do with someone falling into it than moisture. I've been reading some luthier boards and a lot of them have been baking their tops in the oven before gluing up to prevent excess wood movement and give the guitar a more aged sound (kind of similar with crossbracing and finished on one side) but I suppose you'd need a hell of a large oven, and he doesn't have all summer to set the boards in the attic.
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Nov 26, 2008 22:42
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Anyone want to take a look at this and tell me if there are any obvious flaws or structural problems with it? It's my first time trying to make my own blueprints for something as opposed to using someone else's plans. (Clicky) (Clicky)I can upload the skp somewhere if anyone wants to take a better look. mcrandello fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Mar 28, 2009 |
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Mar 28, 2009 23:05
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If you had the bt3100 then you could always just get this dealie bob for it: http://www.leestyron.com/sharkryobi.php Unfortunately it sounds like you have the same cheap 10" that I got for 175$ about 4 years ago. Worst saw ever made by anyone anywhere (I just deleted a 3 paragraph rant about how frightening this saw is to use.) If you ever see a used 3100 0r 3000 I've heard nothing but good things about them from the owners but then if they're getting rid of it it's probably worn out... I'll tear off the throat insert on my saw tonight to see if there's even anywhere on there to hang one but I'm doubtful. Also keep in mind if you go welding on it you'll either weaken the plastic housing for the saw from the heat or possibly warp the lovely thin metal parts inside. Mainly it's more effort and money than it's worth for that saw for a variety of reasons. I'd recommend being god-damned careful with the saw and put your effort into making sure each cut you make is as safe as possible. Use the guard when you can, the guard/splitter it comes with isn't even that bad as long as you're just doing 90 degree rips. Make sure you've got an auxiliary fence and feather board for it, make sure you're not going over any more knots than necessary, no "hidden arrows", and then when you get the scratch for a better saw, take all that paranoia with you. Also anyone? I'm mainly concerned that all those through tenons might weaken the structure a bit.
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Mar 29, 2009 02:42
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Do you mean the front-back rails, the side to side rails or both? I assume you mean these bastards: (Clicky)I could cut the tenons in half on the backside and just leave out the side to side pieces altogether and glue another 3/4 piece to the outside rail for a shelf support. Might make getting that top panel in tricky but as long as it goes in before the table it should work I think. The munions were meant to be sort of a cloud lift thing. I guess that doesn't work so well though? I just might go half lap on those though since I'll be doing most of the mortising with a drill press and chisels anyway and it was already getting ridiculous halfway through making the sketchup, it should turn out looking the same from the front, especially once the joints are all glued and pinned. also 3 less pieces to have to puzzle together come glue up time. Thanks for the suggestion. Edit- I work saturdays  at least it's a fairly quiet job with a little free time.mcrandello fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Mar 29, 2009 |
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Mar 29, 2009 03:45
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Alright, I incorporated some of the suggestions and think it's a bit improved: CLICKY CLICKYthe skp is available here for the next week if anyone is morbidly curious. I haven't put in any of the measurements yet, I'm going to go see if there's a script that will help me separate all the groups and lay them out to determine board feet or if I'm going to have to do it all manually. Fun times ahead.
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Apr 2, 2009 03:35
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Cobalt60 posted:Just a "broad" question, if I were to build up a fairly small shop of power tools. If I was looking for the following items, by priority, is it possible to be "brand loyal," meaning could I basically find a good brand a stick to it for ALL these items, without being stupid or losing out somehow? Buy nonmatching machines, debadge, get a gallon of rust-o-leum and a sprayer and then download whichever of these wets your whistle: http://wiki.owwm.com/Default.aspx?Page=Decals&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1 and then make matching decals. Instant matched woodshop.
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Apr 23, 2009 00:55
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Demolisher posted:Funny you should say this, I am looking into it because I am getting into luthiery. There's also http://luthierforum.com/ which seems to have some sort of weird rivalry with that other one IIRC. Also it's a little hard to navigate, but they do have a bit of information for all levels of builders if you dig around. Also they have William Cumpiano who's book I reccomend if you're starting out. I got about halfway done with one before a breakup caused me to have to pack up the workshop, and that book demystified and explained a lot of stuff you'd never think of or get exposed to doing basic cabinetry or home improvement type stuff. edit: adblock plus seems to help quite a bit with all the extraneous images btw. The front page of the forum is pretty much an extended advertisement for the siteowner's spruce business, but don't let that discourage you from digging around though. mcrandello fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Apr 28, 2009 |
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Apr 28, 2009 22:05
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That's an amazing amount of clamps. I was planning on simply slicing up an old innertube and wrapping it around when the time came. Either that or the old threaded rod, nuts/washers and wood donuts clamps. For whoever asked about it above, the back, as well as top on acoustic guitars is bookmatched so you have a nice mirror grain pattern running down. Also why you have that strip running down the middle on the back. The bracing and the bridge plates is usually enough to keep the top stable, as they're made from spruce which has an amazing amount strength when quartersawn. I can second the scary sharp method on chisels/planes. I basically used a piece of tempered glass on top of the table saw, with the sandpaper glued down at its ends and a honing guide. There's nothing quite like shaving a patch of hair off your arms with a plane blade. If anyone has the secret to raising a burr on a cabinet scraper though, I'm all ears. I've tried numerous methods and can't seem to get it to produce anything more than powder and hand cramps when I use it. I might try the drill press method next: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7McwpmFZ6Us despite the source.
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May 3, 2009 01:08
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Without being sure of what kind of sealant you've got on there I'd say try some minwax first on one of the leg bottoms where if it's hosed up it won't be seen. Wipe some on with a rag then wipe it back off after a few minutes. Assuming that works you can do the whole thing then put some spar urethane on it. Maybe some deck stain/sealer would work well too, I don't know though, never really used it. Also if you have unfinished cedar and it does turn grey you can hit it with a pressure washer and it will actually bring a good deal of the color back. We did this quite a few times on an outdoor bar we had at my old frathouse.
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Jul 11, 2009 00:19
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For the grooves and contoured parts I found this just the other day from the woodworkers journal ezine that I somehow got subscribed to: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/eZine/Public/QA.aspx The sanding star thing looks pretty interesting and might get in there for you. For the other spots under the handles, it sounds like the handles were screwed on tight enough to compress the wood. You could try sanding off the clear layers with some sandpaper wrapped around your finger, then blot some water on there, put a damp rag over it and take a clothes iron to it. That should expand the wood fibers hopefully enough to where you can sand it all level with the surrounding wood and get rid of the rest of the finish, and maybe even use smaller handles without it being too noticeable. As for chemical strippers, they're great if you're stripping the whole piece at once and don't particularly care if there's still some stain left in the wood. If you've already sanded around it you might wind up with some unsightly blotches. mcrandello fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jul 16, 2009 |
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Jul 16, 2009 21:53
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You could but you'd probably want to drill pilot holes and there's always the risk of pushing the drill a little too hard and getting a hole through. I doubt if you got a good, thin, even coat of wood glue or even elmer's white spread out between the two sheets that you'll ever see them apart again though, even without wood screws. I'd put some weights all around the top (whichever will eventually be the bottom side) piece of wood, and a plastic drop cloth under the whole deal. I'd also put a line of blue tape or something around the bottom. Tangentially related- my shop teacher always taught us to let the glue dry then scrape it away with a scraper or chisel but I've found that can tear away wood fibers, especially with woods like red oak. Dad always took a wet sponge or rag and went over it right after gluing until it was clean. You raise the grain a little that way but you're going to be sanding/scraping it again anyway, right? mcrandello fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Aug 2, 2009 |
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Aug 2, 2009 02:07
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You could also hire a small hertz/u-haul for around the same price. As far as using a planer as a jointer the thought had crossed my mind as well but I think it would be problematic for two reasons. One, the base on a good jointer is dense and will as much absorb shock as support your work. Without it vibrations from the motor will leave an edge that may still need work to be perfectly true. Also, and I'm not as sure on this one, but I think the drum that holds the knives has more diameter to make a smoother cut. It could probably be done well enough to get rough edges more or less in shape, but you'd probably still have to finish it with something like a handplane and a shooting board.
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Sep 25, 2009 02:57
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goddinpotty posted:The last time I worked with woodcutting was as a boyscout and I was like 12. This isn't a terribly difficult project, but what are some ways to idiotproof it and make it sturdy? Would a hand drill work or would I want a drill press? Drill press, definitely. You might be able to get by barely with one of those bracket things that clamps onto the drill but just no. Even a cheapo drill press from Harbor Freight would be a vast improvement over hand drilling it, and here's why: In this design the string spacing is determined by accurately placing those tuning pins on the side of the box. If the pin is even at a little bit of an angle to one side it will affect where the wire travels over that metal rod and give you uneven pasta widths. How much of an issue this presents is up to you of course. If you have a woodcraft in the area or a cabinet maker they may be willing to let you use a machine to do this step (I've heard/read that there are places that will rent 'time' on their machines but I never personally ran across one that has or inquired.)
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Dec 6, 2009 00:33
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If you can't find edge banding to match (say you're using birch ply from home depot or something) you could always bend a thin piece of whatever closest wood you can find using steam: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dg7mWlRHJw&feature=fvw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8tCbI8pnxw You can also use a heated piece of pipe after just soaking the wood in water for a while if you don't want to go to the trouble of setting up a steam thing. I used a pipe with a propane torch sticking http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jlc-kxBzvWk&feature=related
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Dec 29, 2009 22:27
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Oh hey I actually, finally made something. Not too terribly proud of it considering some of the work in here, but it's been forever since I got to use my tools for something other than repairing the crappy crap that constantly breaks all around me. Mom called a few weeks ago and wanted a copy of the sawyer end table from Sturbridge Yankee Workshop, but wanted it to be a side table, with different dimensions and in 'natural' finish as opposed to painted white. I got pretty close I guess, ma was pleased. I did use plugs instead of those cutesy button things they put on knock together furniture because, well, gently caress buttons.
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Dec 31, 2009 05:20
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Another angle on it. I don't even know what 'cottage style' furniture is, google seems to indicate that it's some sort of shabby chic thing that furniture stores have invented fairly recently or something, some sort of unholy amalgam of arts+crafts, shaker and farmhouse specials where nothing really lines up right. I think I got that covered here. I put on some ipswitch pine stain, got three coats of fast dry satin poly leveled and got it down just in time for Christmas. Pallet wrap is a godsend for hauling stuff through the rain btw. Not even a drop on it.
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Dec 31, 2009 05:30
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PapFinn posted:One: Speaking of old Craftsman hardware, here's part of what mom and dad sent me home with for Christmas, a 103.24280 bandsaw that my grandfather bought. I lacquered the base since it was starting to get rusty and put a wood top on the base because it had always bothered me having the switchbox just kind of hanging off the side rail. Also I did a motor swap on it with my shopbuilt drum sander because the o.g. motor had some dead spots on it causing it not to start right for several years. Also I put the motor up top because the old one was getting covered in sawdust. Now I just need to put on a sharp blade, replace the tires and see if I can get some of those cool-blocks to replace the guides on it.
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Jan 5, 2010 08:59
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MarshallX posted:Anyone got an ideas on using bar clamps that are 6" long on a 8" wide box? I bought the wrong size and can't return them I just finished watching a wood whisperer episode where he talks about hooking two bar clamps to one another (about 6:00 in) to glue up something longer than their capacity but didn't demonstrate, and I'll be goddamned if I can figure out how you would go about doing that and still get the clamps to hook over the edge of what you're trying to glue.
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Jan 7, 2010 05:36
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dv6speed posted:Comedy answer: Weld the bar clamps together. I still don't get how the tail ends of the clamps are going to get down over the workpiece unless they wind up angled in two directions, which seems suboptimal. -Or maybe if the workpiece is hollow, which may work in the case of a box. I was going to take a look at my own cheap set of clamps last night but it was just too cold to get out into the garage.
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Jan 8, 2010 00:16
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Once again I have to plug the scary sharp method. I wound up getting a polished marble floor tile from Lowes for ~$2.00 that works great as a flat base.
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Feb 9, 2010 22:14
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I never really liked woodturners that much, always driving up the price of hardwood lumber scraps and being all "here look at this bowl I made." Well since dad went pretty much blind he and mom gave me some of his tools, like the bandsaw pictured above, as well as a lathe he picked up sometime after I moved out. So here, look at this bowl I made:  It's a quaich, used for passing around whisky. One day I'll figure out how to light and shoot things without resorting to a bedsheet on the sofa.
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Feb 17, 2010 04:06
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Slung Blade posted:Mmm, balvenie. From what I've read most finishes become 'food safe' after about a month when all the solvents have gassed off. In this case, I lacquered it because I figure for the minute or so it's in there a 40% solution is not going to get past it once it's completely cured. We'll see, if it soaks in I'll wind up sanding it off and redoing the bowl with something else. A lot of sites I've seen recommend using a food-safe oil finish however I have very strong doubts about how well those would hold up to single-malt.
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Feb 17, 2010 22:39
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JEEVES420 posted:... Did you try the 3dwarehouse? It might have something in there- you'll need to get sketchup though to actually view the items, and of course some things won't come with the measurements already made on them, others will be out of scale, you get what you pay for there. I do find it better for my mind to wrap around a 3 dimensional object though instead of blueprints for whatever reason though so maybe give it a look-see. http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/
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May 16, 2010 00:15
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If that thing is what it looks like it is then changing the blade should be dead simple: just remove the circular saw that's clamped to the bottom of it and then look up the specific instructions for that online. Afterwards, leave the saw unattached and simply clamp your workpieces to the table and saw them that way, it seems like it would be much, much safer. e:^^^ For use with a router that's not so bad, the thing is spinning along the same plane as the workpiece so fence alignment doesn't matter so much.
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Aug 15, 2010 02:16
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dwoloz posted:Bought a Delta 36-600 1.5hp table saw to replace my old Craftsman with the busted motor. You know you could probably just take the motor off of the Delta and put it on the Craftsman rather than go to all that trouble setting it up and all that  edit: I'd offer you money for the busted craftsman if I didn't live on the opposite corner of the country. mcrandello fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Dec 30, 2010 |
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Dec 30, 2010 05:22
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I've never really liked the entire idea of the tenoning jig. I always just score the lines for the cutout with a knife, then crosscut the piece just inside the line, and make a series of crosscuts, clear the area running it sideways over the top of the blade and then finish it up with a chisel. I mean, I understand that the setup time for the thing makes sense if you're cutting dozens of the things but I can never get over how unwieldy and awkward it looks. My way is probably twice as dangerous in reality but there it is if you want to try it.
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Jan 1, 2011 18:57
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Well, the tax return is en-route right this very moment and the second it drops I'm planning on buying a new table saw. At least new to me. The ryobi plastitable is completely unfit for cutting anything other than flesh, and I'm hesitant to even list it on craigslist. Maybe I could beef it up somehow and turn it into a router table or something. Anyway speaking of craigslist and locals I found this while looking for deals: http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/2178678626.html Any ideas on what that is above the elevation knob? A hinge to pop the table open for easy access to change the blade/retrieve fingers? A skeleton-key power switch? Also were saw tops like that ever common(hint: I don't think that's rust?)
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Jan 27, 2011 03:44
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Ampersand-e posted:Update: Awesome, after comparing quite a few models I'm down to between this one or the Porter Cable PCB270TS from Lowes. That is unless I find some sort of widow's special on the craig. I'm looking at replacement parts/accessories right now to see which is better supported. fake edit: I actually clicked on something from a review site and got sucked over the event horizon at woodgears.ca again, oops.
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Jan 28, 2011 05:29
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GEMorris posted:Get the Ridgid, if only for the warranty. I'm about to go ahead and do just that, the tax return just dropped. Apparently it's the same saw as the craftsman 21833, although from all the reviews I've just spent the last 2 days going through the craftsman badged ones don't seem to be set up with near as much care by the factory. Also Sears appears to have been throwing the boxes around and the end result is a lot of saws that were misaligned, had broken trunions and various other cases of shipping damage. It's $55 less but I can't justify giving up a better warranty, especially with the huge numbers of bad reviews the Craftsman was getting. I was hoping to have a homogeneous power tool selection one day but I figure I can just as easy paint the Ridgid red and silver.
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Jan 29, 2011 01:47
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MarshallX posted:Anyone got tips on getting nice even shellac coats on multi surface/edged pieces (see my mantle clock up above) More alcohol, lighter touch and maybe a bit more squeezing out the excess so there's less shellac/solvent in the muneca, straight along the shaped edges and small circles on the open plains. Before starting each session rub the piece down with triple or 4 ought steel wool and then compressed air/tack cloth really well. If you're doing french rub the coat should be pretty much dry within a few seconds, maybe a little cloudy but the muneca shouldn't be dragging at all if you're getting a good mixture and not too much shellac on at once. If things are going well and it starts dragging out of nowhere you probably have enough on there to let it sit for a while. Nice carpentry on that thing BTW. Sorry I don't have more specific advice, french polishing is one of those things that is hard to learn or pass on with just words. mcrandello fucked around with this message at 09:43 on Jan 29, 2011 |
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Jan 29, 2011 09:41
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Thanks for the advice on the saw GEMorris. I picked up the Ridgid across town Saturday, set it up last night and did the final adjustments on it this morning. I had to file the mount holes on one of the wings, as it sat a hair proud of the cast section, and the cast iron table had some sharp edges with need to be deburred. Otherwise assembly was very straightforward, it appears to be set up dead square (I'll try to pick a dial indicator here soon to check but it hits the fence on both sides of the blade) and it made the test cut through some scrap pine like a hot knife through butter. I finally have a TS I can respect and not be terrified of. Now to get out to the other end of town to pick up one of those remaining routers and make a router table for it.
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Feb 2, 2011 01:20
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