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anaemic posted:excellent. edit. I just noticed the dipthong on the back of the headstock. That's some really good stuff right there. Who do you order the spruce parts from? mcrandello fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Feb 7, 2011 |
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Feb 7, 2011 07:35
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Bad Munki posted:Wait, so how does that work? Where do you plug the shop vac in? The centered tube on the top? Pretend I'm an idiot. has a side view illustration of what happens. It looks like the air comes in the side of the thing, spins around and then exits the top after throwing all the dust against the walls of the cone-thingy, which then drops the dust down into whatever you're collecting it with. The next section in that article suggests it may be possible to build one out of a busted dyson and a paint bucket...wheels spinning... And anyone still in the market for a clearance Ridgid router- depending on the HD store you might be able to have them transfer one from another store to your local if there are any in the area. I just picked up one that way 
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Feb 9, 2011 23:46
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQQZkGFKTtU Shows the dust coming in from the side, the shop vac is attached to the top-center of the cone, sucking in mostly clean air while the majority of the dust falls to the bottom and into the barrel it's attached to. It looks like that one has some sort of fin molded into the clear portion to kind of direct the airflow into a better spiral. Here's one where some guy just glue-gunned what looks to be a large pop bottle to an ice-cream pail and hooked up his house vacuum, almost every bit as effective as the one above. The all black hose in this one is what attaches to the dust collection port, the silver/black hose is your shop-vac. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wA8f0okOwlM edit: the related videos are all kinds of fun and education too, between those and the Woodwright's shop episodes I guess I have my evening playlist picked out.
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Feb 10, 2011 00:52
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As far as the hardwoods go in Orlando, also check out Amazon Hardwoods (link). It may be hard to find in the industrial plaza, IIRC there wasn't a sign the last time I was out there. Mindblowing amount of lumber compared to the woodcraft, however I haven't seriously sat down and compared prices.
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Mar 31, 2011 04:51
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Bad Munki posted:How do I go about getting a finish on stuff that I turn that makes it look like the object is practically coated in glass? I want to try making some ornamental hangy things, and it'd be nice to get a glass-like finish on them. http://www.cuecomponents.com/cuefinish.html. You could probably cut shellac with everclear and use a french-rub dolly to apply it to the spinning piece and get something pretty nice in next-to-no time at all for a lot less money than all that super glue.
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Apr 27, 2011 22:21
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Sorry, I'd read about this someplace and it was called a muneca, which I then looked up, which means dolly or babydoll, which I've been calling it dolly ever since because muneca sounds like some kind of communicable disease. Basically you shred up a t-shirt or old diaper and then wrap up the shreds with a larger piece of soft cotton. Used to apply super diluted shellac. e: Here's an illustrate guide including how to make a muneca: http://www.fourpartharmony.us/2008/03/26/guitar-project-french-polishing/ (French POLISH. French rub...I'm turning into crankshaft  )e2: Ratios for shellac, also a more in-depth guide. French polishing is really popular among luthiers: http://www.guitarsint.com/article.cfm/ArticleContentId/4 I wound up going cheap on a piano bench by brush coating two coats of uncut bulls-eye shellac, sanding in between coats, then cutting some of it two parts 91% rubbing alcohol to 1 part shellac and using the doll^h<i>muneca</i> pretty much the same way as described on the two pages above, the trick to making it work well is to not ever allow the muneca to rest on the work surface (won't be an issue if the piece is spinning in a lathe) and to pull the muneca back off and reload it when it starts to feel like it's dragging. mcrandello fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Apr 27, 2011 |
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Apr 27, 2011 23:45
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Cobalt60 posted:Rule #1 of french polishing: Never polish with a used diaper. I'll take that to heart (thankfully no kids, I'd always heard what wonderful polishing rags in general old cloth diapers made.) Actually I just thought of two other things to add- FP is not appropriate for situations where the thing will get wet all the time, as constant contact with water will cause the finish to cloud up white, and while it's naturally food-safe, avoid making shot glasses with it because, well, look at what we're using to dissolve it.
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Apr 28, 2011 00:23
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Fish glue is great for joints that have to come back apart or get adjusted. Don't ever store your project in the trunk of a black car in florida though. (edit- stories of violins etc. coming apart in the car are apocryphal afaik but abundant.) Here's 1 vote for Elmer's white glue.
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Apr 28, 2011 22:55
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Yeah, look back in the thread a little for tips on french polishing. the cool hing about shellac is that it's one of the few finishes that amalgamates with itself, making repair of the finish much easier than other top-coats. The lovely part is that you'll never ever allow anyone to set a martini on that thing after you're satisfied with your first repair. (Basically no alcohol that can spill ever, and do not allow water to sit for long periods. Also a hot plate fresh out of the microwave will do pretty much the same thing you posted a picture of. Ask me how I know this. Coasters and trivets are your new best friends...)
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May 10, 2011 07:55
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 20:46 |
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ValhallaSmith posted:I would do it as a laminated stackup. You could do this two ways. First would be to cut the entire profile out of a piece of wood several times till you get to your total thickness. Just lay the profiles out on top of one another with lamination glue between the sheets. Then clamp everything evenly down. How about this... You make 2 or 3 cross sections out of ply cut to the front/rear profile of the bookshelf, and then cut and miter either 'doorskin' luan or other thin stock for all the book-bearing surfaces and undersides, gluing and tack-nailing them to the cross members. It might be close enough to a torsion-box to actually hold together. Downside to this method would be getting precise and complementary angles on all the pieces for attractive joints.
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Sep 5, 2011 07:38
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