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Thanks, yeah the issue I'm having is finding a place that'll sell more than one or two very specific profiles you can stack onto a shaper bit like that, I need to match the original shape as closely as possible. Wouldn't be an issue at all if I could just mix-and-match a modular cove, rabbet, and a couple bearings on a shank like I'd assumed going in, but either I'm looking in all the wrong places or that's not a thing. I can find a guy to machine the tooling, but I was hoping to avoid that since I'm not investing in a startup I'm trying to repair a houseful of broken windows and getting hosed over every time I try to hire anybody to do anything I'm going insane
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Jan 22, 2024 |
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Jan 22, 2024 01:25
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Not 100% sure because I haven't bought newer ones lately, but my old shop's cope and stick router bits were sort of modular like you describe. You could take the top profile off one bit and swap it out for a different profile. Stultus Maximus posted:Is there an architectural planing mill anywhere around? They’ll have a ton of profiles to order from. Thanks yeah I'll have to keep shopping around and I've got a couple possible leads now. This whole thing is a loving hassle, tempted to put together a proposal to just buy a CNC machine so we can mill our own bits to spec anyway here's Wonderwall 
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Jan 22, 2024 |
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Jan 22, 2024 20:24
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What's your budget/how much do you value your time
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Jan 23, 2024 18:43
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yeah literally any big cabinet-style saw is going to be a colossal improvement, those contractor saws are just miserable finger-removal devices unless you legitimately need a saw you can pick up and move around. If you spend a little time on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace or whoever does business liquidation auctions in your area you can get a hell of a saw for <$1500. Unless you're getting a Sawstop, which is like double your budget, the only thing you'll get with a brand new saw that you may not on an older one is a riving knife, just keep an eye out for that if you go used. I'd budget for one of the Incra miter gauges/sleds, no OEM one has ever been particularly good and making your own isn't worth the hassle 220 is probably overkill unless you're running a serious production shop that needs to bang through so many feet of 8/4 white oak every minute (or got a great deal on a used industrial saw that's going for $300 cause it's eight feet across and weighs a ton, but those are usually 3-phase). A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Jan 23, 2024 |
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Jan 23, 2024 21:03
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sharpening sucks and if you're working with oak or sapele or anything else hard-ish that loves to split or tear out you're gonna want your tools sharp as hell. Is a set of five Everlasting Stanleys worth $1000, probably not unless that's how you make your living, it sucks that these are now luxury items for decorating some dentist's mancave or whatever, but I've used screwdrivers that made better chisels than the stuff you get cheap at Home Depot I still never use half the stuff being listed but pull saw, mortising chisels or sharp screwdrivers, square center punch and drill are all good suggestions. I'd say drill press actually, the added stability opens up a ton of options that aren't really feasible with a hand drill, but honestly everyone starts out with what they've got and adds to their toolchest as they run into something they can't adequately solve with that, I did literally everything including sanding on a horrible wolfcraft press rig for years before I had more than like $40 at a time to spend on equipment so my shop is still very drill press-centric A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Feb 11, 2024 |
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Feb 11, 2024 17:10
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They're going to crack regardless, you don't really see any old endgrain cutting boards that aren't like five inches thick with a big external frame and bolts running through them to keep the whole thing intact. Very few of the cutting/charcuterie boards you see at farmers markets and stuff with the cute wood patterns or lasercut poo poo wee put together with any thought to longevity, they'll just fall apart in a couple years but if you really want to they're not hard to glue back together
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Feb 17, 2024 |
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Feb 17, 2024 00:29
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Even on antique stuff you're more likely to see endgrain splitting across the wood than along the glue line, it's just so much weaker and so much more efficient at slurping up moisture that odds favor it popping *somewhere* eventually. You can rewax it every single time you use it and dab gently with mineral spirits only or maybe just get lucky but i think most likely you'll be much happier regarding them as a consumable you might have to fix or change every so often than some kind of heirloom item
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Feb 17, 2024 |
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Feb 17, 2024 02:04
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You got lumber, you got an extension cord, pretty sure you can arrange some shop space before the building inspectors know what hit em
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Feb 22, 2024 04:39
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Nosre posted:Best treatment to knock down mildew and mild mold? best is D/2, by miles, if you're really concerned about sterilizing the thing. vinegar doesn't bother mold too much and isn't great for degraded finishes, murphys meh won't hurt but mostly will just wipe loosely attached schmutz off the surface (a lot of those blooms probably will just wipe off with a wet cloth), anything thymol-based will make things worse, dilute bleach is a little harsh but I've had success using it on things like papers and it'll clear up surface mildew just dandy A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Feb 26, 2024 |
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Feb 26, 2024 06:55
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tbh at this point even outside cali CDA costs as much as a high-proof grain alcohol without all the weird poo poo in it from the liquor store
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Feb 26, 2024 |
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Feb 26, 2024 21:04
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Unless I have a specific project in mind that needs fuckin huge timbers I tend to get mostly 5/4, as wide as possible. After surfacing that'll translate to a bit over an inch which is a generally good all-purpose hardwood size, ¾" works too but 4/4s are a bit too prone to warping. get the timbers like three inches off the ground, preferably not on dirt, keep the rain off them, sticker and secure them down tight with ratchet straps to keep them from warping. The storage shed I was keeping my last batch in flooded and everything was just hanging out over a puddle for months and when I broke up the stack it was all fine
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Mar 7, 2024 |
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Mar 7, 2024 17:54
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Personally I rarely find all that much use for stuff that thick unless you're getting into actual architecture, it can be handy to have a little on hand for heavy-duty dining table legs but like you said it's not hard to double up if you need to, and imo good design is sturdy and stable and *light*, 2" thick tabletops are a thing you grow out of when you stop watching youtube clickbait and learn about aprons
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Mar 7, 2024 21:56
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Leperflesh posted:This depends a lot on style. worth noting that everything in this one looks to be made out of 1x6s but yeah comes down to a style thing and having some general idea what you tend to do. I've been gradually working towards a library of designs that all use the same standard dimensions for everything cause I've got a lot of lumber in weird sizes or a weird one-off species that's been sitting around unused for years, if I was making a bunch of beds or dining tables every year 2" stock would be a larger portion of that but they're uncommon enough that the ones that show up on my rack tend to gather dust A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Mar 8, 2024 |
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Mar 8, 2024 04:23
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Before YouTube it was magazines like Fine Woodworking, I get the impression few of these shops would be above water if they had to subsist on just furniture sales with no endorsement deals Good design and problem solving is unprofitable to teach and unintuitive for most casual hobbyists who are inexperienced with the processes and maybe kinda intimidated by a pile of rough boards, there's definitely a noticeable trend where the newbies will desperately need to know which pocket-hole machine is The Best for the one table they ever plan to make and cling to a shitload of hard-and-fast rules about what kind of stuff you're allowed to do, while the old coot who's been at it for 40 years has stripped everything down to like a sharpened screwdriver and 'eh, good enough'
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Mar 11, 2024 20:38
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gonna be the first to figure out a line of furry art dining sets and secure an endless stream of wealthy patrons who aren't all just looking for the same kitchen cabinet but beiger this time
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Mar 11, 2024 20:52
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Higher profits certainly but I don't expect half as many liability issues from clients trying to gently caress/get vored by their sideboard
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Mar 11, 2024 21:11
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i just watch non-american-centric youtube stuff like dylan iwakuni or grandpa amu, while the more slickly produced ones are probably still selling something it's woodworking classes or domestic investment in Fuijan or some poo poo that has no effect on what they're actually doing or how they do it, beyond that they mysteriously have an infinite supply of time to make every joint absurdly complicated
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Mar 12, 2024 |
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Mar 12, 2024 21:17
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yeah i drum sand whole sheets of laser feedstock (cause it's much much cheaper to make the nice stuff from scratch, mostly) but doing it to individual little parts coming out the other end is going to mostly just lose them. Masking tape to keep the tar off the pieces or hand sanding a finished assembly will do you better.
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Mar 20, 2024 |
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Mar 20, 2024 18:39
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Lang's Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture
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Apr 1, 2024 16:35
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It’s like if Krenov had a sense of humor ...drat, yeah
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Apr 3, 2024 04:57
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anyone here in the Baltimore area and looking to blow some money? Met a guy who's got a week to clear out his basement full of brand new Felder equipment, B3 Winner shaper/tablesaw for $5400, FB510 bandsaw for $2500, just eyeballing it each had about half that much in blades and accessories but dude doesn't have a real inventory he just kept pulling power feeders and poo poo out of the walls
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Apr 9, 2024 |
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Apr 9, 2024 20:44
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Run a couple plywood triangles down the sides of the boards here, unless you really need your load to poke out past the sides of that shelf in which case extend the vertical maybe 3" below the joint and do the same thing from below. I've made box joints that *have* withstood that kind of treatment on their own, but it's not great for long-term hard use and you want as much as possible to avoid putting all the load at the very ends of the board like that.  IDK what they make pine out of where that dude comes from but no putting a wood screw ⅜" from the end of a SYP plank is not a mechanically sound way to carry any load A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Apr 12, 2024 |
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Apr 12, 2024 21:04
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it's ok dude you can just be wrong, it isn't all that embarrassing until you start doing this poo poo
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Apr 12, 2024 23:14
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Yeah, it will need to poke out from the sides (27 gal plastic bin), that is a good idea extending it below and doing the inverted triangles though! Is 3/4" ply likely going to be good enough? Yeah 3/4 would be more than enough, give it a little space around your attachment points and you could get away with like 1/4-1/2 and just butt everything up with glue and screws if you want to; all the force is going along the width of the plywood and any stray lateral force will get handled by your existing shelf bits, it'll create an extremely sturdy box that can handle a fair bit of abuse in all directions. It *would* be lighter in aluminum (i recently finished a wooden camp chest that's got pretty similar requirements and old-timey wood construction does pack on the pounds fast) but if that's all you're doing it shouldn't be too cumbersome for a day hike A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Apr 13, 2024 |
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Apr 13, 2024 01:34
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Just Winging It posted:Siccative is what you want if you're seeking to speed up oils drying. If you used lovely wood or did a lovely job of sanding it'll still probably look fine until you stain it, and most of the Lowes Depot stains kinda look like poo poo in most applications regardless. It requires a fair bit of attention to detail and experimentation to get predictable results, there's no thousand-dollar product that will let you bypass that process, so if you value your time at all there's no cost savings or benefit in making a single TV tray or whatever out of faux walnut vs. the real thing. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Apr 15, 2024 |
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Apr 15, 2024 21:24
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Yeah but if you're reaching over the blade to caress the outfeeding lumber you kinda craved the saw's kissSelachian posted:Has anyone ever dealt with reclaimed wood dealers? Yeah someone'll buy it,if it doesn't have a ton of extra nails on the sides likely even just a regular lumberyard. Don't expect them to pay a ton though, retail lumber places tend to run by paying a dime per board foot and charging $10 A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Apr 18, 2024 |
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Apr 18, 2024 20:27
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Jobsite table saws are pretty awful unless you're actually a contractor who needs to be able to shove your whole workshop in a van; then they're still awful but you're in the business of making that everyone else's problem. The DeWalt jobsites are the only ones I'm aware of that make a real effort to keep the rip fence square, and I never ran into blade calibration issues on my exceptionally beat-up one, but if you've got a lot of space any old cabinet saw on Facebook Marketplace will be a dramatic step up, just be sure to get one with a riving knife since that wasn't a standard piece of equipment in olden times
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Apr 18, 2024 |
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Apr 18, 2024 23:07
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Tracksaw, which comes out to p much the same thing
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Apr 19, 2024 15:53
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PokeJoe posted:looks good. my only note is that those spikes into your butthole might be a little uncomfortable after a while Good grip is undervalued in seating
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Apr 20, 2024 22:04
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CommonShore posted:Yeah I'm not so concerned with "it's fine will it work" and more with "wait a minute, doesn't this do a better job of all of the expensive modern solutions"? This thread has gone through multiple rounds of the stages of acceptance that some crushingly expensive precision-machined youtube-darling superplane is nearly useless for actually planing wood, lmao Metal bodies are much more easily mass produced to a certain level of quality, are simpler to twiddle with, and can take a serious beating. The wood ones depend on hand fitting by someone reasonably able to figure out problems in wood, and replace a wood block if it gets damaged. Planing kinda sucks and I think a lot of the horseshit about planes online is best explained by considering that almost nobody buying planes and posting product reviews actually does it all that much; the guys who I know for a fact have produced impressive volumes of planed wood tend to either talk a lot about some japanese master bladesmith who died 26 years ago or just grab a fistful of rusty metal from the rusty metal pile and go to loving town, neither are terribly helpful A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Apr 25, 2024 |
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Apr 25, 2024 01:30
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the size at which you find yourself picking it up, flipping it over, and using it as a powered hand planer
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Apr 26, 2024 00:00
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I assume you're aware of portable jointers and planers so the question is totally pointless until you figure out what you actually want, but sure I won't make the mistake of bothering respond to you again, pal
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Apr 26, 2024 00:38
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