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Hey, I wanted to drop in here and say Hi and cross-post a post I just made in the thread where a british guy was asking for feedback on setting up a workshop. First off, I am not trying to poo poo up the thread, or cause a bunch of drama. However I feel that there is a bit of misinformation, or simply bad advice, going around. My .02 is worth exactly that. My background is Industrial and Furniture Design, I've taken courses in everything from furniture design (industrial design) to furniture manufacturing (straight up "how to optimize a furniture factory" IE type courses). I currently teach an ID studio and a materials and processes course while my wife and I get our business off of the ground (which is not furniture related, furniture is a horrible business to be in, but a great hobby). I am a blended woodworker, I view power tools as "drudgery machines", in that their job is to make quick work of the boring poo poo. The skilled work I prefer to do with hand tools. I do not design to what the machine can do, I design for what looks good and is structurally and functionally sound, then I use the machines for the boring parts, and hand tools for the skilled parts, or for operations where power tools would be too difficult to set up or simply cant perform the operation. Here is where I will repost what I posted in the workshop thread: gemorris posted:Before you build a workbench, you NEED to read Christopher Schwarz's blog and his book, get started here. I am almost done building a bench just like the one I linked to, Scandinavian benches are complete poo poo imho, please do not run out and buy a workbench. So yeah, not a huge fan of table saws, especially not table saws that do not have riving knives at a minimum, or blade brakes like the sawstop. I hate Norm Abrams and his ilk that have brainwashed people into making the table saw the center of their shop. The ubiquity of panel goods is also to blame, but I wish more people were taught from the beginning how awesome bandsaws can be, instead people are usually exposed to shittly tuned 14" deltas and come to the conclusion that bandsaws are poo poo. I can post some old work if you'd like, but it is mostly shittly crafted design concept work. New work will be forthcoming as soon as I wrap up my Roubo workbench this week. I'm a lot of talk, so feel free to ignore or tl;dr Edit: Oh yeah, feel free to ask about hand tools etc, I can at least point you in the right direction. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Mar 5, 2009 |
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Mar 5, 2009 07:58
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wormil posted:So much angst, so little woodworking. seriously  Like I said, lovely concept work 
GEMorris fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Mar 5, 2009 |
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Mar 5, 2009 16:02
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I don't disagree here, if you don't have a bandsaw (or table saw), jointer, and planer, making any bench is going to be difficult, but not impossible. You can either do as wormill suggests, find a solid core door and some sawhorses, or you could find a local woodworking club/shop etc. Around here there are two different shops you can pay to be a member of, and take classes at. See if there are any in your area. If there are then I would take this approach, as you could use their tools to build your bench and test the waters to make sure this is the right hobby/craft for you. Where I disagree is the idea that a door on sawhorses isn't a detriment to your work, which it is. The workholding ability of this roman style bench is poor at best, and could be frustrating, especially for a beginner (but it is better than nothing). Or you could get a 6, or 7 size plane and some hand saws and put in a bunch of sweat and make that English bench, it's all the people who invented it had, and they got by just fine. If you do this, start with the sawbenches I linked to in the other thread. Edit: This guy just made that bench with no power tools at home (he did get the lumber yard to do some jointing and planing, which they will normally do for a fee). Second Edit: Jag, check out this auction it ends in 12 hours, looks like it will go for cheap, and comes with extra blades. I dont know where in the UK you are in relation to it, but if you could snag that I would, it would give you enough ripping ability to handle boards from the hardware store, and you could always resell it for what you paid. Just me .02 again. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Mar 9, 2009 |
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Mar 9, 2009 02:40
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2x4's and 4x4's are the nastiest wood available. Even if you were to follow such plans you would be far better served by buying 2x12's (especially if you have Southern Yellow Pine available) and ripping them down (and then gluing them up in the case of the 4x4's). The result will be much better, less knotty, and less prone to warping. The real decision is if you are going to use hand tools or not. If you are going to be a power tool woodworker, and rout/sand/biscut everything and just make mortises with a mortising machine and tenons with a bandsaw (hah, just kidding, if you go this route you will make your tenons with a table saw), then sure, make a dirt simple roman bench, i.e. slab on some horses, and then spend your money on your power tools. If you are going to use hand tools, or be a blended woodworker and use quite a bit of both, then you need a bench that is made to hold things for hand work, and a roman bench is exceptionally lovely at this task. If you go this route, my advice is to invest time and money into the bench, rather than the collection of power tools listed above. The divergent philosophy on benches here really boils down to "just get started with poor materials and tools" vs. "Take your time to make/buy/build quality things right from the start." I'm not trying to threadcrap, but I know many people with closets/basements full of cheap tools/fixtures/benches they never use, and for the cost of those items, they could have had fewer quality products that would see long term use.
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Mar 10, 2009 00:42
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Wormil, who using what tools again? [after I posted I got what you were saying here, no, I specifically know that they do not use those tools because they are inaccurate, difficult to use, gimmicky, and in some cases, too much tool for the job.] The power tool woodworker generally has as much if not more money wrapped up in tools than the hand tool woodworker, except the power tool guy has a higher consumables burn rate by a small to medium margin. You guys are telling him to build a lovely bench, and then use that to build a good bench? I told him to build a pair of nesting sawbenches in the other thread, and to use them to help build the main bench. The difference is the lovely bench will end up in the garbage, while the sawbenches will stick around because they are useful in the long term. I agree he needs tools, if he had a full compliment of power tools, making a good bench would be easier. But it is possible to do it with only a few, or even no power tools and a bit more sweat. Hell if he isn't going to like woodworking, making the sawbenches will let him know, and if so, he isn't out much money. I think folks are not seeing the fact that the things you make for your shop, those are woodworking practice. If my first project is a shoddily made picture frame, I probably wont keep it around. But if I make some functional yet mediocre looking sawbenches, I will learn from my mistakes, but I probably wont throw them out. My schooling btw was about aesthetics, technology, and design. Woodworking hand skills was not something that was even offered. I started at CNC and worked backwards to hand planes. I can operate in either world, but prefer the more manual skills for my personal enjoyment. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Mar 10, 2009 |
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Mar 10, 2009 05:03
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If you are going to do a lot of work with sheet goods, rather than solid wood, then even I would steer you towards a table saw. That being said, a table saw is a potentially dangerous tool, and you shouldn't skimp and buy a TS that does not have modern safety features. Like a riving knife. A splitter is NOT a riving knife. The cheapest TS with a riving knife these days is the new granite-topped Ridgid TS that home depot sells. They don't have a floor model in every HD, but you can ask and they can order it for you. Nice thing about the granite is: 1. Heavier than the thin iron castings you would get on a saw of similar cost, so better vibration dampening 2. No rust 3. Stays flat, cast iron likes to creep over time 4. No rust Another option is of course my old favorite inca, with their die cast aluminum tops, but their saws have a weird arbor (20mm on the 10" saw) and they are hard to find, so I would stick with the Ridgid if you want to go the TS route and are in the USA.
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Mar 27, 2009 02:13
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WildFoxMedia posted:So then it does basically look like $500+ or gtfo... it is $500 now, or your insurance deductible later, your call
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Mar 27, 2009 15:40
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Ever notice how you rarely ever hear about how some total newbie cuts their finger off on a table saw? It is always some guy who has been woodworking for 30 years. The reason being, risk exposure. If you use an unsafe tool for an extended period of time, the chance of the tool getting you approaches 1. Safe rips can certainly be made with a $100 harbor freight special. Until that one time when there was an internal knot, or some localized tension, and that wood grabs the side of the blade, or the blade decides it would rather throw the wood back at you than cut it. That's the time you can end up in the hospital, it only takes one time. Riving knives have been standard in europe for years now, and they have finally been required on all new table saw designs (starting this year) and on all table saws sold (Starting next year, or 2011, forgot which) for a very good reason. Splitters do not appropriately guard against kickback, locking pawl or not. Kickback isn't the total threat, what is worse is when you experience kickback, or the beginning of a kickback, and then make the wrong decision about how to deal with it. It is easier to make bad decisions like this on a small table saw, because the solution looks like it is in reach (hey, why not just help the wood through by pulling from the outfeed side of the blade?  )Right at this moment, the cheapest saw with a riving knife is the Ridgid, it will probably not be that way for long, but that is the current situation.
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Mar 28, 2009 01:39
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wormil posted:Yes and no. Obviously the tablesaw is an inherently dangerous machine but it's also relatively easy to use safely. What is true is that some people are inherently unsafe and get away with it for a long time, then they lose a finger and suddenly preach safety like it's the second coming. The guy is balking at $500 for a table saw and you are suggesting panel saw? Hey, know what's even better than that? An SCMI Beam saw, or a dual bed Heian CNC router! wormil posted:Really, enough with the tablesaw bashing. Not bashing table saws per se. I'm bashing poorly equipped saws that have not adopted a long proven safety improvement because of the laziness and greed of their manufacturers. If sheet goods are going to be primarily used, you are going to want some sort of circular saw, be it a TS, a rail saw like the festool/dewalt, or a panel saw. grover posted:I found out his thumb was still inside it... Wow, and I was reading this while eating lunch. I'm assuming it was pretty much hamburger and you knew it was his thumb because you were aware of the previous accident?
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Mar 28, 2009 16:47
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wormil posted:Panel saws can be had for half the price of a tablesaw Link? We may be talking about two different things here, but the cheapest panel saws I know of are the Safety-Speed-Cut variety and they are still over $1k wormil posted:I get the point you're trying to make and I'm not saying that accidents don't happen but its false to imply that losing a finger is inevitable. A kickback on a table saw without a riving knife is inevitable, given enough board feet cut, and it can lead to injury or even didgit loss. wormil posted:Many, many, people use tablesaws (and joiners) safely all their lives without losing digits. Really I'd like to know what the poor guy was doing to lose a thumb. A fingertip I could easily see but a thumb? grover posted:It's a non-threatening tool This attitude, that a tool spinning a bit or a sharpened blade is ever non-threatening. But to be honest, that accident probably would not have happened if the jointer had a euro guard, and not a porkchop guard. I loving HATE porkchop guards, they give the illusion of safety while leaving the operator exposed at the most critical point in the entire operation. :rage:
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Mar 28, 2009 23:53
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wormil posted:Google "panel saw". You can build one for several hundred bucks with the added ability to accept a router. Saety speed cut's cheapest model, $775 http://www.panelpro.com/products.html The Milwaukee panel saw is even more expensive http://shopping.msn.com/prices/6480-20-panel-saw/itemid22065519/?itemtext=itemname:6480-20-panel-saw Those "kits" that are sold are more of a joke than a $200 Lowe's table saw, which is a pretty big joke to start with. I mean, you can make a bandsaw out of $50 in parts and a few sheets of 4x8 ply, but it isn't going to be any good.
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Mar 29, 2009 01:18
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grover posted:Even the cheapest table saws have riving knives. They don't work, however, when you remove them and blade guard they're attached to. Which you have to for certain projects, but shouldn't just because it gets in the way/is annoying. These are not riving knives, they are splitters, know the difference http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riving_knife
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Mar 29, 2009 02:48
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mcrandello posted:Also anyone? I'm mainly concerned that all those through tenons might weaken the structure a bit. Well the ones where the rails supporting the table meet the frame certainly will, you have almost nothing left to support that mortise in the frame. The muntins on the front (the mid-panel rails) really break the whole thing up by not being on the same line, try some half-lap joints there rather than M&Ting everything. Half laps are very strong unless they are in direct tension in the axis they mate, or unless there is a racking or twisting force along that same axis, neither are the case here. This would allow you to have your horizontal muntins appear visually as a single beam traversing the entire front of the bar, rather than the odd stair stepping that is going on now. WildFoxMedia posted:Wow, I'm sorry guys - I didn't mean to start a bunch poo poo between you guys. Man, I busted in here like a bull in a toe stomping contest, you didn't have anything to do with that. WildFoxMedia posted:question, is it possible to attach riving knife to a cheaper table saw No, the riving knife rides up and down with the blade, whereas a splitter stays in the same location. Most any saw that wasn't designed for one will not have any room on the trunion for one to be cobbled on. I also don't recommend "cobbling" safety equipment in the first place.
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Mar 29, 2009 03:03
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wormil posted:And what the gently caress, do woodworkers have no life? It's Saturday night for gods sakes. Fo Real, I'm babysitting the laser engraver and not much else. wormil posted:I'm having a hard time picturing this... half lap muntins on panels? Or do you mean rabbeting the back of the frame for the panel? I'm considering the front to be one mcrandello posted:I assume you mean these bastards Yeah man, after you make that mortise, there isn't much left, haunch those suckers, or make them half laps to save time. Edit: For clarity GEMorris fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Mar 29, 2009 |
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Mar 29, 2009 04:45
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valve posted:left! If I can restore and sell the bass, then I should be able to purchase a new sander. A friend of mine makes guitars and swears by the Ridgid Oscillating Spindle Sander / Edge sander that they sell for $200. Plus it has the lifetime warranty.
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Apr 1, 2009 17:58
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    Simple profile molds cut out of 3/4" MDF on a CNC router and stacked. The seat mold uses hose clamps for part of the clamping force (It seems like there are far too few of those in that picture, I remember using far more, but it was like 4 years ago). I don't really have a walk-through, but it is pretty simple. As for the rocking chair, I will try to dig up some of the pics for that project, they are eluding me right now.
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Apr 2, 2009 03:26
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laod posted:Wow! I didn't expect mechanical clamping. Hopefully you made a few of these after all of that effort. I made four, I still have two. The most challenging part of the whole project was getting the loops to meet up at precisely the right point due to moisture content, an 8' strip can vary up to 1/2" in length with extreme humidity changes. Open ended bends are so much easier. laod posted:What sort of materials (glue/epoxy and laminates) are you using? I'm guessing some kind of glue and maybe birch veneer? This was made with a commercially available 2-ply sheet. It has a relatively thin longitudinal layer, and a thicker crossband layer. It is pretty meh in overall performance, but allows beginners to get their feet wet without dealing with the brittleness of single-ply veneers. I do believe the longitudinal veneer layer was birch at least. I think I used regular titebond for this one. Polyurethane glue is messy, and Titebond 3 will creep like a mofo. laod posted:Also, what's the tightest bend you can realistically achieve? That front edge looks like it's got to be getting close. It's a tradeoff. Want a really tight bend? Use thin veneer, but then your part will be weaker, and will be more subject to glue creep than if you used a thick veneer. For the material I was using, the leading corner there was pushing the limit. A lot of failures also happen due to uneven bending forces. Tight bends should be supported from the outside with a piece of blue foam, so the force is more evenly distributed and doesn't get completely focused on the apex of the bend. For extremely tight bends I recommend using ratcheting straps outside of the blue foam and ratcheting the bend around. laod posted:Ever since the first time I saw the Eames lounge I've been fascinated by bent plywood. For whatever reason I'd always thought it to be out of reach without very specialized equipment (not that cnc routers aren't specialized, but I think I could duplicate that mold by hand with some printed patterns and a lot of patience and sanding). It's only lately that I'd begin to suspect that it might be more doable than I thought. It's nice to see it in practice. Thanks! I used CNC because it was there and didn't cost me anything. Simple profile extrusion type shapes can easily be done by manual skills. Some 3d forming can be done without cnc pretty easily as well. I need to take some pictures tomorrow when I go in to teach, I still have a mold and resulting part from the mold that I made awhile back, it is definitely a complex 3d surface, rather than a simple extruded surface. Another thing, there are quite a few different methods of bending ply. If you are making long thin parts (chair legs, etc) then mechanical clamping, or a mechanical frame with a pressure bag are the way to go. If you are making seat pans or backs, then a vacuum bag is the way to go. Last year I had my materials students make skateboards as their wood component for the sophomore materials class, we did this in a vacuum bag. The biggest challenge of all with bent ply however, is getting the drat veneer. Every time I would find a supplier that was willing help me when I was a student, they would be out of business in 6 months. Thanks China for dumping lovely furniture on our markets and running our companies out of business. I used to be all into bent ply and I've since moved on, not because I dont think it is great, but when one of your peers makes something like this you just decide that you've been outclassed and it is time to find a new niche.  Also, I got really into hand tools.
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Apr 2, 2009 20:42
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dyne posted:How is this table saw? I'm probably going to pick one up sometime in the next few months and I liked the rack and pinion adjustments for the fence. I don't know if that's just gimmicky though. Dear god man spend the extra $70 and get the Ridgid with the granite top and the riving knife. That Dewalt isnt even in the same league.
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Apr 6, 2009 17:10
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Walked posted:Ended up picking up a Ridgid on Craigslist for about half price. It's missing the riving knife, but I can order that online on the Ridgid parts site. Woo. Unless it has a granite top, it is missing the splitter, because the only Ridgid saw produced with a riving knife so far is the granite topped one (which is really just a rebadged steel city) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riving_knife I'm not being a dick, the difference is important. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Apr 6, 2009 |
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Apr 6, 2009 17:12
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PMan_ posted:I saw Woodcraft is offering Jet jointer/planer combos in 8" ($329) and 10" ($420) varities for what seems like a pretty good deal. The surprising part is that on Amazon, these have pretty good reviews: Even if I got a larger planer, I would still keep my INCA 10.25" jointer/planer combo to use as a jointer. The extra jointer width is worth it, and you can make extension arms for the bed if you regularly joint things over 8' These new small J/P combos are essentially knock offs of the one Rikon made, which was a knock off of Metabo and INCA machines. If the reviews are good it may be worth chancing it, I certainly love my 10" j/p combo.
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Apr 12, 2009 15:25
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Walked posted:And back to my router questioning. Is the Festool OF 1010 worth the price bump to $370? It seems to get the best reviews possible, have much better micro adjustments (not vital, but would be nice for my primary uses), and seems to be oriented towards freehand work the best (my primary purpose). Festool stuff is worth the money if you have the money to spend. If I couldn't buy the 1010 and the big guy, I would go for the 1040, as the 1010 can't take a 1/2" collet. I'd love to have some of their tools, but alas I do not. To put my current situation into perspective, last week I bough a montgomery ward radial arm saw for $35.
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Apr 13, 2009 03:47
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Cobalt60 posted:brands You are a marketer's wet dream.
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Apr 21, 2009 03:15
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http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38220 Build that one, pay for the plans, the guy has done tons of research and it is proven. If I ever get some money, it is what I will be building. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Apr 28, 2009 |
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Apr 28, 2009 02:01
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PMan_ posted:If you're going to be using hand planes, you'll probably want at least 3 of varying sizes, including a block plane. Quality planes, like a Lie-Nielsen or a Lee Valley, are going to get pretty spendy, just to forewarn. You may be able to find some old Stanley's at garage sales that, with a little TLC, can also be very good planes. This is all good advice, my version is only slightly different. If you are going to spend "new tool money" on any plane, it should be a low-angle jack. I recommend Veritas, but Lie Nielsen is also nice (but more expensive). I also recommend getting an extra blade for that plane. Then get a used low-angle block plane, and a hock blade. Keep the hock blade sharpened at the regular angle, and sharpen the stock blade to a higher angle. The result here (with both planes) is that you can have a regular/low and a high angle plane just by swapping blades. I have a miller falls here, a 57 or 56 will work. Stanley also made a ton of these but the model numbers escape me. The next tool would be a router plane, the Stanley 71 1/2 is relatively unloved simple router plane that goes for cheap on ebay. This plane can do tons of jobs that more specialty planes do faster, but for far more money. Grooving, dados, etc, can all be done with a router plane. With these three planes you can do almost ANYTHING. Tasks that these planes cant do well (trimming tennon cheeks etc.) can be done with specialty expensive planes, or simple things like Nicholson Mill Tooth File (http://cgi.ebay.com/Nicholson-12-in...1QQcmdZViewItem) for a whole lot less money. After getting those three tools, I'd concentrate on saws. Panel and Rip saws (backless) aren't hard to find for decent money, backsaws can be tougher depending on what part of the country you are in. For new, I wholeheartedly recommend the Veritas dovetail saw. Chisels are an area that people often overspend on, or buy too many. The affordable Narex chisels are consistently rated well. Get a 1/4" a 3/8" a 1/2" and a 3/4", http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=49989&cat=1,41504,43500&ap=1. As far as mortise chisels go, this is where I would spend big bucks and get a 1/4" Ray Isles mortising chisel. As far as sharpening, do some searches about sharpening with diamond paste, it really works and it is cheaper than many other options by a longshot. While really nice sharpening guides are nice, a side clamp jig for $20 or less will get you far. http://cgi.ebay.com/12-pcs-5gram-Di...1QQcmdZViewItem
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Apr 30, 2009 02:49
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Jagtpanther posted:Amazon wishlist here I come. Going at it with a fore plane and then a jointer plane does work, and isn't nearly as hard as you would think.
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Apr 30, 2009 02:51
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Jagtpanther posted:Idiot question, while I'm watching Mr. Bubinga do his work. With hand tools, how do you get a perfectly square end on a piece of dimensional lumber? I mean, I know the mechanics of a curved plane blade, but I can't figure out how you'd go about doing it while keeping the piece at the exact required length. Crosscut it perfectly the first time? Shooting board. Some people keep a separate non-curved blade for shooting, but most say it is pointless since the diameter of the curve on a plane blade is very large.
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May 3, 2009 00:06
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wormil posted:What technique uses a plane with a curved blade on end grain? I've always used a block plane. By curved I don't mean scrub plane or even fore plane level of curve, I'm talking about the amount of curve you put on a smoothing or jointer plane so that you don't leave "tracks" when you plane. Some people think that shooting with these blades, with their extremely small amounts of curve is not acceptable, and keep a straight sharpened blade for shooting. I say the amount of curve is completely imperceptible over the small distance that is the thickness of a board and don't bother. I shoot with a jack plane, some shoot with a smoother plane. I can't shoot with a block plane, maybe my form is all wrong but it is just too jumpy for me. The jack plane lets you get some momentum up to power through the cut, the block can get hung up on a tough patch. Just my experience, if blocks work for you with shooting then keep at it.
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May 3, 2009 04:29
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Jagtpanther posted:words Your 18" wooden plane is a fore plane, or even jack plane as wood planes tend to run larger than their metal counterparts. flatten the back of the blade, put a relatively serious curvature on the blade, and fugghedaboudit. It's for planning cross-grain to get rough lumber ready for the jointer plane.... Which is the 22" plane. Flatten the sole, this is easiest, ironically, on a powered jointer. Second easiest is with a second jointer plane that is known to be flat. It can be done other ways, but I would try to find a way to make one of those work. Check it first, it could already be flat. Take a straightedge to the bed (the surface the blade sits on) of that plane, it probably has warped and is why you have tons of room behind the blade and none in front. If it has warped you'll need a float (mill tooth file) or a relatively rough file to flatten it again. The record plane will probably be just fine. As long as the blades don't have pitting on the BACKS, then they are fine. I can't believe that those planes were 1 pound each. Nice brace.
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May 3, 2009 19:22
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Jagtpanther posted:GEMorris, so that big bastard and the metal plane will be my tools of choice for regular planing jobs, right? If I had rough-sawn timber I'd use the middle wooden fore plane to get it relatively smooth enough for the jointer plane to actually do the business? Or is there an intermediate step between getting rough sawn wood off the truck and the first fore plane run-through? Basically it goes like this: Fore/Jack : Coarse, use at first perpendicular to the grain to get down the really high spots, take a pretty heavy cut with this. Towards the end you can start going 45 degrees one direction and then the other. Jointer: Start with this one going 45 degrees to the grain, the goal here is to get the board FLAT (not necessarily smooth). Finish up by taking a few passes with the grain. Smoother: Generally only used with the grain, take a very light cut. The goal here is to clean up any tearout left behind by previous planes. If you have access to a filez source, try to find some woodworking vids.
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May 4, 2009 04:28
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Jagtpanther posted:Thanks again! This. Everyone ever has this mental problem with shooting boards and how they aren't supposed to work, but then they do. Pman: make a replacement fence out of some 80/20 extrusion or some such.
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May 4, 2009 20:30
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Jagtpanther: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/INCA-3PHASE-B...parms=72%3A1688|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50 Buy it and replace the motor with a single phase motor. I seriously can not believe that saw is that cheap.
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May 13, 2009 20:02
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jagtpanther, send me an e-mail, gemorris@webmail.ncsu.edu
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May 21, 2009 20:44
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Glorified Scrivener posted:Pictures of my most recent project, a Honduran Mahogany bench, finished with a Poly/Oil Mix from Rockler. There are plenty of mistakes in it - my second attempt to hand cut dovetails - but over all i'm happy with it. Looks pretty nice. Only suggestion I would make is to plan out your dovetails better, and that is from purely an aesthetic concern. Looks like you have a solid bench that will last a lifetime, this is why simple projects are so awesome to learn on, despite mistakes they almost always turn out fully functional.
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May 22, 2009 00:51
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Glorified Scrivener posted:Do you mean the size or the spacing (or both)? I went big with them because I wanted the piece to have a solid feel - and when I sketched out designs with more/smaller ones it looked "busy". The relationship between the pins and the tails. They are, in my opinion, too close to the same size, without actually being the same size. This generally leads to a kind of uneasiness or imbalance in a piece. My personal preference is huge tails and skinny pins, and they don't have to be that skinny. Also, unless you are going to play up unequal spacing/size of tails or pins, I would try to make the spacing equal. As to not be confusing, I am meaning that either the tails or the pins should be significantly larger than the other, but that the pin-tail-pin-tail spacing should be consistent. Really it is a nice piece and it looks to be very well built, I was just nit picking. EDIT: I went back and looked at it, the problem is the fat pin in the middle. If the pin-tail proportions you have on the sides had been maintained throughout, the piece would look better IMHO.
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May 30, 2009 03:45
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Jagtpanther posted:220 grit diamond plates first which seems pretty excessive as they're £100+ ! http://cgi.ebay.com/12-pcs-5gram-Di...1QQcmdZViewItem Doesn't matter that it's an AU auction, it all ships from HK anyway.
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May 31, 2009 20:56
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Jagtpanther posted:Squirt that crap onto a piece of glass? A piece of flat maple works really well, or any hard, non-porus wood. http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=49344
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Jun 2, 2009 01:18
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Not sure how many folks follow Christopher Schwarz's blog, but he announced a new book today that will hit the shelves in August on the topic of hand planes. More importantly, he released a free chapter, "Coarse, Medium & Fine" which covers much of the same material as his Lie-Nielsen video of the same name. Great into to what type of handplanes are used for what if you are a beginner to hand tools. his blog is here
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Jun 30, 2009 03:41
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ChaoticSeven posted:Cool stuff Wormil. I like the mahogany table. I can't afford to get any real stuff, but theres some African locally for $4.85 I might be able to get for something small. Holy Awesome batman. I have serious doubts that my patience and follow-through would allow me to complete such a restoration, so I always spend more on tools that don't need restoring. However none of mine save the new ones look anywhere close to as good as your restorations, and the new ones don't have the character.
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Feb 27, 2010 00:19
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wormil posted:The strongest glue joint is formed with the grain of the two woods running parallel because you are essentially gluing the wood fibers back together. Joints at right angles are weaker because the strength depends on the glue. You can actually demonstrate this with uncooked spaghetti, orient the spaghetti all the same way and it will stay together better than spaghetti at right angles. Sanding the glue face disintegrates the fibers, makes them uneven and fuzzy if you look under a microscope, and weakens the joint overall. Ultimately it's much easier to get a nice, clean, flat, glue surface by cutting the fibers rather than grinding them. QFT Never depend on an end-to-edge or end-to-face joint to hold from any adhesive, ever. End grain just doesn't adhere well, examine furniture and you will find most end-to-edge or end-to-face joints involve a mechanical fastener, or a joint that creates a face-to-face gluing situation (mortise & tenon or lap). Just make everything with drawbored mortise & tenon joints so you never have to worry
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Feb 27, 2010 00:25
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Bicho6 posted:I just ordered a woodworking book from amazon. You can't get anymore beginner than me. Do any of you guys recommend plans for beginners. I don't really care what the plan is for, I just need something easy to get me working. My dad is a carpenter so he probably has any tools I may need. Yes, buy the CD with the first 7 or 8 issues of woodworking magazine on it. Go to Christopher Shwarz's blog and download the sawbench plans and make those. Branch out from there. Sawbenches arent hard and are insanely useful.
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Mar 4, 2010 02:15
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