|
I really want to turn mugs or bowls on my school's lathe. Any guides to elementary lathe education? I've had the intro lathe course so I know my way around tools and speeds, but I've only done lathework where the piece was locked on from one side and had the spike on the other. I just like the look of black wood kitchenware.
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2008 04:11
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 1, 2024 14:16 |
|
|
Anyone know a relatively easy setup for making wood CD racks? I need to hold hundreds of CDs and will just line them up on a wall. Lots of weight so I'll use wall studs which is fine.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 15, 2008 02:49
|
|
|
Wormil thanks for the Rockler cd rack tip but I am going to try to build a shelf system. My girlfriend has about 750 CDs and I have a few hundred, I'm shooting for 1000 CD capacity. Its going to be ~ 60" wide, 84" tall and ~5.5-6" deep. The shelves are going to occupy the top part, I'm estimating .5" wood for the shelves and 5" spacing between them, with 7 shelves I can get over 1000 CDs (~147 CDs per shelf). Now, this is all assuming I designed something that will actually hold a load and all that jazz. This is where I need advice.  Each shelf's load is going to be ~32.407lbs total, evenly, so 2 or 3 lbs/foot? I can secure it to the wall I just need advice as how to best go about doing that. Also.. what kind of wood should I use? Trying to be super frugal. We're going to put some sort of low table under it against that wall too, hence why the shelves dont go all the way down. edit- if it helps here are a cd's dimensions/weight .4" x 4.9" x 5.5" and 100g Not an Anthem fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Sep 29, 2008 |
|
#
¿
Sep 29, 2008 18:17
|
|
|
Thank you! How big does the backer have to be, can it be small strips or are you saying to make one big ol sheet to go behind the entire shelf area? If I do the backer, can I stick with 1/2" or should I go bigger? Out of curiosity what is the dado solution, as I really like learning about real woodworking and have access to a real woodshop and some home tools. Lastly- what kind of wood do you recommend?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 29, 2008 19:49
|
|
|
Ah you rule, thanks. Curious about your shelf- did you use screws or how did you set it up? I'll probably run to the local lumber yard tomorrow and see what prices are but I won't be able to work on it til this weekend. Looks nice!
|
|
#
¿
Sep 30, 2008 01:36
|
|
|
For a sculpture project a year ago I built up a large roughly 4'x4'x2' curvy frame with the same method used to glue up guitars and holy poo poo is it fun. Mine was of course very crappy as it takes insane amounts of time but guitar building is very, very cool.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2008 17:37
|
|
|
Some things I've done lately: Oak candleholder  Birch ply cd shelf   Beautiful mid century danish couch with matching chair for a steal (did not make)  Steam-bent green Oak bench  ..but after we took out the inside bracing we realized it wouldn't support enough weight, so now its a "sculpture"  Zip ties were to hold the pieces as they dried, then we went in with epoxy.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2008 16:57
|
|
|
Furniture cleaning question, I just bought matching midcentury danish modern but made in japan couches and the wood has spatters and dust and grime built up for being in someone's basement too long. Nothing traumatic just ugly. Whats the best way to clean and safeguard the couches? I hear mineral oil to clean and then carnuba wax to protect, yes? I don't want to use any products that impart silicon or nasty crap I don't need in them.
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2009 20:41
|
|
|
I was warned over and over to avoid silicon because if you ever need to fix it up again its a bitch.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2009 18:14
|
|
|
Know a good mineral spirits + wax tutorial on buffing and all?
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2009 01:03
|
|
|
Here's one of the couches I got: Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. The armrests seem to have gotten a lot of either wear or sun exposure as they're fairly tan, while the backrest and seat are still a nice dark rosey brown.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2009 16:27
|
|
|
xpost from projects thread My mom gave me two drop leafs her mom got at a flea market, black walnut but warped as hell from sitting in our basement. Chopped them back into planks, joined and planed them, glued them up into 2.5"x2.5"x42" blocks, realized the max the shop lathe could handle was 35.5-36", cut off the ends (saving for candlesticks, for later). Pulled the tailstock forward in z axis to meet my taper and cut a leg (took me all day for my first leg, holy poo poo). Realized the taper was waaaay too large (always make a model/mockup) and ran it through the next day with a much smaller taper, hit nail on head and banged out 3 more legs. Halfway through I had to use my hand as a lathe steady then the shop super pulled out a home made steady he made of aluminum and rollerblade wheels, but it didn't allow through-passes so I had to cut it in about 3 sections including the end near the tailstock. Every now and then I pulled it off and used a machine sander on the end where the dog was screwed on so I could size down the dog and cut closer to the foot of the leg. When all that was said and done and close as I could get it I centered the tailstock and cut tenons in to be snug with the holes in the tabletop, had to do this twice, three times for one leg, even though I was checking with a digital caliper. Pays to be precise. Spalted white oak bookmatched tabletop, urban felled (no trees cut down intentionally, very "green" blah blah blah). Black walnut legs, 3 layers of tung oil, tops of tenons were filled a bit with homemade filler from the walnut sawdust. Veeeery shiny although the picture doesn't do it justice.  Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. Under it is a white ash pseudobookmatched frame, the top/sides are sort of bookmatched. Didn't turn out as cool as I thought it would. Had to turn the legs in 3 sections cos they were so loooong and I only had a home made lathe steady rest (roller blade wheels)  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Parts mostly done for desk  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Rough cut proper profile from 3/4" mdf for 14" hemisphere, turned it on a lathe. Traced out entire 14" circle on paper, measured in 3/4" increments and figured out diameters of circles, cut out of 3/4" mdf and glued up with threaded rod as the clamp (drill centers first obviously). Throw it on outboard lathe with an outboard toolrest and shave away, its actually a lot easier to match the curve than one thinks, had my paper circle I could match it with though. Very important to realize the glue lines are way harder/denser than the mdf core so when sanding/finishing use a hard backer (mdf) and sand the glue lines more as you'll take off the mdf core faster. My final lamp has some interior ridges because its drat impossible to get it smooth.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. ..so I could use it as a mold for vacuum forming two pieces of styrene and joining them as a lampshade  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. ..to make this lamp  Click here for the full 453x604 image. Second ever turned bowl from scrap green white oak  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. First ever, looks uggo and has a crack, same wood different face of the tree  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. aforementioned turntable stand, out of an old pallet (white oak & white ash) and a little 22 gauge bent&cut sheet metal to hold the album youre listening to  Click here for the full 604x453 image.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 16, 2009 19:17
|
|
|
Whats the diff between a regular spindle gouge and a bowl gouge?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2010 14:12
|
|
|
veritas card scraper holder or the weird lee valley tools veritas which is like a spoke shave scraper?
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2010 22:18
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:I have the card scraper holder, which I think is an excellent bang for the buck. After doing a week or two of scraping on various projects I can easily see the benefit of one of those card scraper holders, I've gotten a scraper burning hot very quickly and my thumbs pass out after a while. Scrapers are a magical tool I've only recently had the pleasure of finding, that thing's on my list (the holder) for sure. Rockler is having a 15% off online sale through this sunday fyi.. I'm dying to find bowl gouges for lathe turning but their sorby gouges are so goddamn expensive. Its to the point where I want to price out HSS rod and have a machinist friend mill the top and just make handles. Actually thats not a bad idea.. Anyways goto rockler.com and use the code "V0758" for 15% off. If anyone has or knows of cheap used bowl gouges, spindle gouges, scrapers, or any lathe tools let me know please 
|
|
#
¿
May 22, 2010 20:54
|
|
|
I'd keep the knots too.. as for the bowling alley glue up get a scraper and go to town on the glue then start planing?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 2, 2010 04:00
|
|
|
parthenocarpy posted:Yeah I removed all the glue about an hour ago. There are still about four open cracks on the underside with exposed glue that I'll probably labor over tomorrow. Pull em up, get a small crowbar, take that metal bar off and run it through a planer if its flat enough or plane it by hand. You're close! MarshallX, woof, good looking wood
|
|
#
¿
Jun 5, 2010 06:47
|
|
|
What sort of woodworking do you want to do? I'd jump on the bandsaw over a scroll saw but it depends what materials and the size of materials you're going to use.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2010 15:00
|
|
|
Getting decent in my wood turning classes, almost done turning my first bowl in some cracked spalted white oak, teacher said he doesn't think he got as nice a finish his first try on a bowl which is 99% bullshit because the guy can turn a bowl with his toenails asleep, but its a really nice confidence bolstering compliment. Doing my first projects in the spindle class and later do some tool handles and he's been talking about some DIY HSS tool making..
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2010 01:04
|
|
|
 Click here for the full 540x720 image. tadaaaa curly maple
|
|
#
¿
Jul 3, 2010 02:08
|
|
|
Why do you need a 32" hole? There's probably a really easy way to do what you want.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2010 02:18
|
|
|
I'm gonna buy my first lathe mostly for bowl turning, although I'm gonna try to do some spindle work for chair construction. I found a great deal on a grizzly 8691 3/4 hp lathe but the bed is "formed" rather than cast and the only thing I've found on that is over time the head and tail can go out of alignment through bending, POSSIBLY. This is my first lathe though, and its 100$. Thoughts? I just picked up a used 8pc craftsman hss spindle toolset for 35 and the guy randomly threw in a sorby scraper and an extra toolrest. Gonna regrind the chisels at work and maybe pick up this lathe this weekend. My thoughts are .. its kind of perfect, ~14" throw means I can do big gnarly bowls instead of doing them on a faceplate outboard, do them with extra support. The only thing that bothers me is the formed bed.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2010 14:59
|
|
|
I'd personally knock off the bark and do a buildup of tung oil on the edge underneath the bark
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2010 16:32
|
|
|
My boss gave me a free mini set of spindle/scrapers/etc (8pc) and I just ordered a 3/8" crown pro-pm bowl gouge (50$), the narex bench chisel set that won "best value" (no poo poo!) award (6pc, 60$), and a medium grit diamond honer (10$) to keep edges good between sharpenings.. As for turning live edge bowls I think you can do it with the tailstock in. Rough out the bowl with the live edge facing the headstock, finishing cuts, make a tenon, then chuck it. At that point it won't be off balance. I've done big faceplate stuff that's thrown lathes around a bit though. edit- reading the Frugal Woodturner by ernie conover at the moment.. such a good book!
|
|
#
¿
Jul 13, 2010 02:58
|
|
|
Got the narex bench chisels that fine woodworking rated best value/edge retention.. 6pc for 60$ shipped. These things are killer and a STUPID deal, get em at Highland woodworking before they're sold out for another year! Picked up a 3/8 bowl gouge for 30$ off too. Yaaaay
|
|
#
¿
Jul 18, 2010 20:36
|
|
|
Related to DIY drum sanders.. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=91415 It'd be really hard to get the speed right so you don't set fire to the piece. The drum sander we have at work is huge and has a built in light that blinks when the feed is too fast for the size of work (aka, THIS IS GOING TO CATCH FIRE STOP), it'll automatically slow the feed down. It would be a cool project though, try it, just keep the sander SLOW
|
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2010 14:06
|
|
|
Jesus that is ugly as poo poo. Why is it so many highly skilled woodworkers make the most appalling impossible-to-use heavy overly built crap  Sorry for the vitriolic subjective opinion, but that is burning my retinas.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 22, 2010 17:11
|
|
|
The drawer is what was really offensive, honestly. Its hard to see with all the leper desk legs.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 22, 2010 23:52
|
|
|
If you're gonna try 12" off the bat just wear a face mask, the only thing that'll happen is PVC shrapnel if anything goes wrong. Maybe use some grease on the bottom? Looks cool.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2010 14:38
|
|
|
Anubis, my turning teacher who apprenticed with ernie conover says if you can get a basic lathe + tooling for less than 300$, you've done well.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2010 17:23
|
|
|
The Narex 6 piece chisel set won outstanding reviews in fine woodworking and they're 6$ each or less, made in the czech republic. Got mine a month ago, fantastic. http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=31448 get em at http://www.highlandwoodworking.com
|
|
#
¿
Sep 7, 2010 07:29
|
|
|
Bad Munki, my old boss had that incra miter and it is lovely.. he also had a fantastic modular aluminum face for it with tracks in it to do about 3 billion different things, might be the handiest thing in the shop besides the vacuum.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2010 16:51
|
|
|
Make your own scraper, plus a spokeshave.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2010 19:22
|
|
|
kill your sons posted:Can anyone tell me how to go about making a clock like this?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 20, 2010 16:22
|
|
|
Holy poo poo, COOL. Can I ask how much you got the orig blocks for?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2010 08:50
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew, is that thing on a carpeted floor? Hellooo bad idea. Nice basics though for the shop. If you want to keep it neat hook a vacuum up to the bandsaw?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2010 08:52
|
|
|
Carta posted:If you know your measurements ahead of time you can get 4x8 sheets of whatever you are buying ripped to size for free at Lowes and HD. That has come in handy a few times. Danger: not only is the lumber lovely for anything requiring flat surfaces, but trusting the mongoloids who work there to cut anything accurately is dangerous. Even at lumber places.. I remember getting a sheet cut to fit in my ex's car at a nice lumber place, I added on plenty outside the cuts knowing they wouldn't get close to accurate and the rip was totally diagonal, like 2"+ travel randomly. Idiots
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2010 00:00
|
|
|
McMadCow posted:Are CAs really hard, or something? What makes them too tough to sand out with a sanding block and wet/dry paper? Its superglue. I use it on lathes just to seal cracks from spreading though never used it as a finish.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 14, 2010 03:20
|
|
|
I use white oak a lot and I've never had a single problem with it. Its an incredibly common hardwood in the midwest, so its great to find a locally sourced hardwood I can get cheap. For quick mortise and tenon nothing I've seen beats the festool domino, its stupidly fun in a production environment, my boss bought one for a series of lamps we made and we blasted them out in no time.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 18, 2010 18:29
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 1, 2024 14:16 |
|
|
That would make for a great basis to a psychedelic fantasy-based chess set..
|
|
#
¿
Jan 2, 2011 23:32
|
|