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Cobalt60 posted:On old saws like this, though, what does the modern woodworker "lose out" on, compared to modern saws? You could make a jig out of square pipe that you can clamp to the table to feed material in, I guess the other thing missing is the whatchacallit, the channel you can feed miter guages and stuff through, but there's all sorts of fancy extruded aluminum aftermarket rail/fence etc stuff you can bolt on. Its cool, I guess the only thing is price, if its in your range it sounds fun? The shop I took some classes in last year had a larger blade on their saw but it was probably only 1.5-2" deep. I guess you should figure out what blades you can use. ed- set up a treadle on it and be roy underhill?
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Jan 4, 2011 01:54
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The Scientist posted:Really quite an interesting solution to the problem of drilling a square hole. Couldn't say first hand exactly how well it works, never personally used one. They're cool but kind of annoying if you're making a bunch of holes near each other.
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Jan 23, 2011 18:47
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My buddy's been working in a shop for a few years without my knowledge, just called and said he might be getting rid of a wood lathe if I haul it off and throw a few bucks his way. Not gonna jinx it and I don't know what it is. I think the tailstock needs to be replaced or isn't present though, is there an easy way to check the centers without the tailstock? Where do I go about finding replacements (and yes I know not knowing anything about it won't give you anything to go on), are there lathe parts sites or trading sites?
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Jan 26, 2011 01:21
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You're asking about the hinge? I think the crank is on the right side of the machine and therefore the hinge is just to fold down part of the table surface, doesn't look that weird if its the case. I guess a wood top isn't that weird either because we build MDF outfeed and extension tables all the time. Is it smart? No. Would solve problem of stupid architecture people using our lab and loving up all the metal tables by leaving stuff on them that stains.. The only thing that screams "ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh" to me is the top left image it looks like the motor is hardly below the table surface or maybe above it due to the angle of the camera. That would weird me out. On second look I'm totally wrong, the top left is the right side view and the skeleton keyhole thing is a total mystery. For some reason I thought maybe just the right side of the table drops, yknow, if you.. hell I don't know.
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Jan 27, 2011 04:45
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kaiger posted:It's a safer table saw that stops and retracts the blade if it comes into contact with flesh. I think that small thing on the board in the video you posted is a piece of chicken. I saw it on TV several months ago and the inventor put his hand on top of a 2x4 and ran it over the blade. It was fairly impressive, but I think it requires proprietary blades. Yea, uses electrical conductivity of the blade. Huge gently caress off brakes engage the sawblade and pull it under the table. You have to pay a cost to replace the brakes I think. We don't have any at UIC but IIT has 12 or something..
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Feb 9, 2011 16:46
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dwoloz posted:yum, looks like my stanley bedrock 605. If you don't want it I'll take it!
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Mar 12, 2011 21:34
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Use stuff from McMaster for normal joints, use various marine epoxies for crazy glue jobs involving steam bending, waterproof-ness, etc. Superglue for filling/stopping cracks in woodturning.
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Apr 28, 2011 18:41
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Bad Munki posted:that doesn't even begin to speak to the nastiness that is spalted wood. I mean if you're allergic, yeah sure, but the fungi doesn't pose any risk to us. It nabs wood, not human tissue. I think its an urban legend?
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May 29, 2011 04:25
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I got this thing 150$ Maple, tons of dogs and weird accessories I've never seen and a metal bender. Made in Michigan, some time ago.
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May 29, 2011 20:37
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Kudaros posted:I'm in the market for a lathe. Can anyone tell me why this: ebay lathe is too good to be true for woodturning? It is. Buy or download a copy of Ernie Conover's book "The Frugal Woodturner" which is THE BEST definitive book by a great woodturner on how to get into turning cheaply, and not regret purchases. It talks all about lathes and what's important.
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Jun 17, 2011 17:40
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Iskariot what size do your sheet goods come in? I've seen 5'x5' sheets before from europe..
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Jun 21, 2011 12:59
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Does anyone here do aspects of woodworking either as a side job or career? Trades, furniture design, whatever, or somewhat close? I graduated with a degree in Industrial Design and jobs are tough right now, but the one thing that I would happily work doing on this sort of payscale is woodworking. I've applied to some apprenticeships and the like, but I have no idea how these work or how one gets into the production environment without having a background in it. For work I submitted photos of the tiny bit of furniture design I did, some woodturning and design projects and photos of stuff I did at two internships at an industrial design shop, mostly furniture.
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Jul 16, 2011 02:03
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Yeah I don't see why just matching paint and making a flat piece is bad- I've seen that a lot and as long as you match it neatly in color and fit no one's the wiser, or cares anyway.
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Jul 17, 2011 19:23
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Jesus christ they made more. Forget if it was last year or year before when these came out, but they won edge retention and all sorts of awards from fine woodworker and other review sites. Those narex chisels are the goddamn cat's meow and a steal. I got em at the tail end of when they came out and am so happy with them.
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Jul 20, 2011 01:53
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I might get jumped on but you wouldn't need chisels for that project. They'd help, sure, but not necessary. If you just bought a house, definitely get a big rear end table saw and begin planning an air system and tell your significant other whatever room you chose as the work room will forever be messy and covered in dust. Congrats.
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Jul 21, 2011 23:40
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funkatron3000 posted:What would be a good must-have list of hand saws for an aspiring wood worker? I literally do not own a single hand saw. Veritas is not junk. New handsaws are expensive because they died out for a while and several people tried to start making them again when woodworking became popular again in the 90s or whatever. There are two schools of thought, used or new. Used you get a bargain but you have to sharpen the teeth, get rid of rust, deal with weird old tool issues. New is expensive, but usable generally out of the box. You'll want a crosscut saw and a rip saw, and a dovetail saw if you do delicate work. You can get them for like 10-15$ used each, but you'll likely need to resharpen them, which will teach you LOADS if you do it yourself.
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Jul 27, 2011 04:56
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slightpirate: good for you! You won't learn anything about it if you don't try to build something. I guarantee you will make a few mistakes here or there, which is why the old measure twice cut once rings true even for experienced folk. Learning about what causes splinters can be interesting too, you can minimize tearout by scoring the cut lines with a marking knife, or google on how to deal with tearout. Levitate: You're probably not going to get a clear response on planes because that is something everyone argues about. Hand planing vs machine planing. You can do without winding sticks by making them, using a flat ruler edge, or something else. Are you new to planing entirely? If so I would suggest getting a book on wood, grain, and machining. Peter Korn's Woodworking Basics is a nice introduction. If you're comfortable following grain to plane, you'd want a scrub plane and a smoothing plane. Scrub planes are higher angle to take off more material faster, and smoothing planes are low angle to shear off wood for a perfectly flat, clean finish. Buying used is great. I'd recommend trying it by hand but on some scrap wood, or finding someone who can show you how to sharpen and set the blades before trying the walnut. For pieces that size you'll need to resharpen the blades. There are powered hand planers too, but I don't have any experience with them.
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Aug 3, 2011 16:33
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Maybe this is a good time to recommend books to read for different topics? My friend who enrolled in a cabinetry making school in seattle gave me his old books and they're GREAT. Peter Korn - Woodworking Basics GREAT first book. Introduces wood, joinery, machines/safety, hand tools, hand milling four-square, mortise and tenon, dovetails, then a few basic projects (bench, table) Bruce Hoadley - Understanding Wood If you work with anything other than MDF or softwoods you really should check this book out from a library or buy it. I took some wood turning classes that taught a lot of cutting theory and making your own turning tools/cutting surfaces and I wish I had this book then. Everything about wood, very scientific with illustrations showing porosity, figure, EVERYTHING. This is basically a wood bible. Drying, fastening, joining, compression, natural dimensional change, identifying wood, strengths, etc. It has chapters on non-wood wood like fiber, ply, engineered wood, etc. More of a medium-advanced book but a beginner would definitely benefit from taking the time to read it. James Krenov - Fine Art of Cabinetmaking Very old book, 1977, but written by the man responsible for the return to the art of fine woodworking. Crazy old siberian guy who traveled the world and taught pretty much everywhere. If you're a nut about cranky old woodworkers who subtly dig on hasty technique, have this quote from the two page chapter "Sanding." quote:When we use fine cutting tools in the right way, there is a closeness - better yet, a directness - about our work; the intention, method and result are all there honestly balanced. So for some of us wood usually wants to be nicely cut. Not ground into crumbs or dust, but cut. Cleanly, leaving traces of the methods used. So, naturally, we feel an aversion toward files and sandpaper and some other things which can pass unnamed. Which is not to say that we never use sandpaper or files: we do use them. But as seldom and as lightly as possible. They are connected with a few special woods, rowed and stubborn like padouk or bubinga. The rest of the two pages is addressing excuses by people to make furniture faster or less wood-like. Even if you predominantly use shapers and whatnot, you'll find a lot of awesome knowledge in the book, you just have to get by the old school woodcrank. The rest are ones I've bought or been recommended: Ernie Conover - The Frugal Woodturner If you are just getting into woodturning or turn and want to learn a lot, GET THIS. This is sort of a modern woodturning bible. How to get into turning on a budget, make your own tools and even your own springpole lathe, describes what to look for in used machines and tools, how to make jigs and find replacement parts, making your own chucks, finding free wood to turn, etc. David Pye - Nature and Art of Workmanship David Pye - Nature and Aesthetics of Design These are not for learning specific woodworking skills, more of a philosophical look at design. The "Workmanship" book is about the marks left on work and how they're interpreted, the "Aesthetics" is more about style, evolution of materials/tools/work, and more. Pye was an absolute master of turning and carving, as well as woodworking. He taught Raffan, whose book I'll mention next, and taught at the RCA for about 30 years. If anyone tickled my brain, its him. Richard Raffan - Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Turning Great turning book again, probably more suitable to picking up turning technique than Conover's, but I like Conover's better. If you need to pick up real working technique its probably better to see and do it in person with a woodturner, or get some DVDs (Conover's DVDs are great). Moulthrop - A Legacy Just a catalog of the Moulthrop family turnings and diagrams of tools/lathes they invented. When I first saw a couple senior Moulthrop pieces in person I just about poo poo myself. I now don't like them as much because of their perfectness, having sort of taken up a love of Pye's workmanship of risk. On the one side they're definitely operating in that parameter by turning by hand, but on the other hand the wood they use is as much wood as it is resin. Not an Anthem fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Aug 3, 2011 |
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Aug 3, 2011 17:05
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Sandpaper and wood don't mix well for smooth surfaces, at the micro level the surface is very uneven and rough due to the very un-fine surface of sandpaper at a micro level. Hence why planes are used. A properly sharpened and set iron can give mirror finishes. Even my wood turning teacher who studied with Ernie Conover for a while says sandpaper is cheating and that all final surfaces should be sheared. Its a bitch and it takes time but your finish is indescribably better. Another thing- sandpaper gets "full" when particulate accumulates around the abrasives on the paper, giving it an uneven lumpy surface, which can get your surface out of true even if you're careful. There are definite applications for sandpaper, but shearing cuts are always superior. Think of it as shaving. When you shave, do you rub sharp rocks against your face, or do you use perfectly sharp steel to shear off the hairs? Wood is like hair in that its composed of tons of fibers growing at different angles and twists in different directions, and only careful shearing with attention to the direction that they are growing can cut them neatly. Shaving against the direction of your facial growth can pull up hair, which is similar to what happens in wood. When you shear against the grain in wood, you pull up that grain and tear it, rather than shearing. Its daunting to learn that doing things the hard and slow way is the best way, but its really rewarding when you see the final passes. I definitely suggest finding some old planes and learning on them, even if you just buy a card scraper to do the final work on your table. My first table I jointed and planed it myself on machines, did as careful a glue-up as possible which was invariably un-flat, and scraped the joint clean. Its beautiful but I imagine any seasoned woodworker could see the unevenness if they looked carefully. Doesn't make it bad, just means you're learning. Really, try browsing craigslist or local swap meets for planes and ask lots of questions before buying one on how to find a good flat workable plane. My first few were under 20$ and the most I've spent was 30$ I think, all relatively nice and perfect for learning. Not an Anthem fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Aug 3, 2011 |
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Aug 3, 2011 19:38
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Cobalt60 posted:You can get a LN low-angle block plane for $80-100 on ebay or WoodNet, usually, and you'll use that little gem for the rest of your life. I would 100% defer to his opinion as I'm a novice and teaching myself out of books and a few classes, if you can spare the money those planes are absolutely worth it. One versatile plane is a great idea. I've used a drum based thickness sander and it makes production furniture a breeze, but even then the final surface isn't the best you can do. Used a really neat grizzly one (IIRC) that was around 18+" and the finish was good but they wear unevenly like old school thickness planers with one blade. One bad area and you either keep going trying to fit everything through the good area, or you redo the whole thing. Switching to the indexable spiral cutterhead thickness planer at the shop I worked at was awesome. Anyways learning this stuff takes a bit to sink in so ask lots of questions (and you'll get lots of differing, conflicting replies...).
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Aug 3, 2011 20:27
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What is your budget for buying tools right now and what is your monthly budget for spending on frivolous metal objects that will require all your attention and loving care to prevent from rusting? You really need to see and feel a lot of things hands on, I'd recommend calling local schools and see if they need any help in exchange for classes or just saving up for a class.
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Aug 16, 2011 02:01
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MMD3 posted:this is actually exactly what I'd like the finish to look like if I can help it... this is a black walnut coffee table made locally that I saw in a shop which inspired me to make a table. That is just straight up nice black walnut, not distressed/aged. Distressing and aging in my opinion give it a cheap look. Find a source of nice wood (like barns) and get the pieces square, then finish them well. Tung oil is a perfectly good finish that won't reek or hurt anything and you can build enough layers to suit the finish you like, all the way to glassy. It looks wood-y and real, and dries in ~15 hrs in my experience. Danish is fine but its not always 100% tung or whatever. Tung's the fastest drying or at least I find.
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Aug 25, 2011 23:34
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Tung Oil: Now I'm a novice so this isn't expert advice but the things I've built, largely out of white oak that's been kiln dried, I just put tung oil on. The dry time for me is 24 hours between coats, but I usually speed it up a lot once it stops being tacky to sandpaper. For the last fairly large scale project I made which was a while ago, I took the raw lumber, cut/joined/etc to get the table, and then wiped the whole thing down with mineral spirits to get sawdust and crap off. Let that dry (takes a minute) then liberally wiped on pure tung oil. Give it a minute to soak in, maybe two, then wipe off the excess. Once it dries, about 24 hours in a dry woodshop, sand with 2-400 grit lightly just to take off unevenness. Put on another coat, repeat procedure. I think I put five coats on and it was glassy buffing between final coats. Its really not hard or mysterious, find some scrap and try out different finishes on it. edit- MDF will fail BADLY if it gets wet. Serious waterproofing especially under a tank if its load bearing.
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Aug 27, 2011 15:28
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MMD3 posted:Here's some wood porn, this is the face all finished with the Danish Oil. If you're using Firefox the colors should be more accurate than Chrome... In Chrome it's lacking a lot of reds since Chrome isn't color managed browser. You can really build up a high gloss with tung by buffing before it gets tacky and LIGHT 220+ sanding just to get the bumps out, hitting with light mineral spirit rag to get the dust off again, then adding more layers. Lovely wood though.
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Aug 29, 2011 23:35
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jvick posted:No I just need to give them a couple coats of poly to make the final decision and start the project. Just remember whatever wood you end up using, save a tiny sliver of scrap to repeat the stain on just so you know what it looks like, every species of wood stains differently.
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Aug 31, 2011 16:31
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hayden. posted:I have sharpening stones for knives and it seems they'll work well for planes, so I'll be sure to do that. Making my own planes would be fun and I've asked on a blacksmithing forum the type of steel I should use for the blade, but so far only unhelpful condescending replies that old grumpy men on the internet are masters at. If you are thrifty, get used planes and fettle the sole, clean em up best you can and sharpen the blade. Its real easy and saves you tons. If you are a blacksmith, definitely make your own wood body plane and forge the cutting iron. Look up "krenov style" planes or planemaking. Its funny the two camps of grumpy old tool guys are a) guys that forge everything themself and snub you if you don't have a forge to make your own cutting tools b) guys that buy everything new and snub you if you ask about old technology/tools However, going from an inch down to even 3/4" takes ages and you shouldn't do thicknesses like that with a handplane.
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Sep 2, 2011 17:32
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FSC/Forest Stewardship Council is arguably also a bunch of bullshit, okaying cutting down rainforest for tree plantations. So.. take FSC certified with a huuuuge grain of salt. Just get local wood. Go to local lumber yards and ask for local hardwoods felled in or around your area.
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Sep 16, 2011 23:46
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Bad Munki posted:Ah, see, not a witch, simply a charlatan. The trick is that one of your pieces is two halves. I think the claim involved three solid pieces, not four that look like three. Its three solid pieces and one key? I don't think you can say "it can't be done," although I've never seen that joint made. Also all joinery is more than meets the eye, I started a woodworking apprenticeship this monday and started documenting how a bent laminate was made, noticing a few cool tricks. Seeing complex roundovers made by shoulder planes alone is neat too.
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Sep 29, 2011 18:03
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dwoloz posted:Can anyone recommend one of those lids for a 5 gallon bucket that acts as a cyclone dust separator? Seems like lots of mixed reviews online I think it was fine woodworking that had a whole issue dedicated to cyclone reviews and dust collection for anything from a garage shop to a production shop. It was really awesome. Can't remember when though sorry.
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Nov 10, 2011 18:55
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Gorgeous planes, they look super ergonomic.
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Nov 26, 2011 20:39
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ChaoticSeven posted:I was fine tuning some 1/8" inlay on the drum sander today and it shot back out and hit me square in the balls. Most painful injury in the shop so far. That's definitely "one of those days." My boss had one two days ago where he dropped a huge piece I was 99% done finishing, dented up 3 edges and one whole face so I stripped and refinished it. Gah. He told me about his worst shop accident too, tablesaw threw back a tennis ball sized piece into a guy knocking a hole in his stomach. Please be careful.
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Dec 2, 2011 01:05
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Any tool, big or small, powered or not, can cause serious injury. Taking the proper precautions though, you'll be fine. Don't be scared of tools. Friend of mine put a carving gouge through her finger because she didn't want to use power tools...
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Dec 2, 2011 01:27
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What dimensions is it going to be, if it needs to last more than a week you're going to have serious problems with it ripping itself apart if you don't do it right.
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Dec 6, 2011 16:23
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Yea if the ribs were kept thin you could totally do that with resin. I suppose you could do wood/acrylic but you'd have nasty glue lines and such obscuring, using straight resin would have the best look? You'd have to make a nice jig to hold it all in place.
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Dec 7, 2011 05:20
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mds2 posted:Does anyone use a combination square like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004JNAUD6/ref=mp_s_a_12?qid=1323834717&sr=8-12 Yes, but a precision starrett one, just was using one for setting up the new sawstop. Never seen the magnetic thing.. don't like it. Thumbscrew works great for me? I'd rather spend my money on making sure the instrument was perfectly square and the ruler was of specific tolerances than the locking mechanism. Johnny Bravo, those stairs are great but the brick.. hideous! They're right in the middle of a wall too, weird. Nice work though.
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Dec 15, 2011 18:14
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mds2 posted:I use a normal thumb screw square now, I had just never seen a magnetic one. Was just curious what people thought of them. I'd rather spend the extra money on a square that's actually square than a square that costs extra because it has rare earth magnets rather than a thumbscrew, sorry if it came off "its crap." The locking mechanism wouldn't affect tolerances, just price. ChaoticSeven posted:Cmon, I know you assholes are making Christmas gifts. Post them. Here's a bowl I just did for my sister.
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Dec 18, 2011 21:45
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Carta posted:Anyone have experience using Sjoberg benches? I was thinking of getting the Nordic Plus 1450 as a basic starter bench. My boss is selling that one right now. He's got two and would like to sell both eventually, but one's for sale right now. If you want a used one I can email him and see if he'd be into it. Where are you located? We're in Chicago. They are great benches, he's used our two for ages (maybe two decades?).
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Dec 21, 2011 02:56
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wormil posted:That's a handsome stand. I love pine. I guess I didn't give a full breakdown of working on them. We have now.. five full size benches and one 3/4 size, plus these two sjobergs. For a long time I think my boss was building very economically because some of the books he's written has him building some of his signature pieces on these sjobergs, chairs and such. This is a photo of me planing down our 3/4 length roubo workbench on the two sjobergs, they're bolted to the floor with one bolt in each crossbrace, four bolts total, and I've got the bench top against the bench dogs on the sjoberg. I use them a lot for planing due to space considerations in our shop and they do great. I've used it for complex routing and the clamps are great. The little tool "tray" dip in the top is useless, I think that's my only complaint. The little sjobergs are every bit as reliably dead simple as sjoberg clamps which we also have a bunch of. Great stuff. 
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Dec 21, 2011 17:20
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Carta posted:I'm in zip 03290, New Hampshire. Let me know price+shipping and any more pictures if possible? I'll email him, he's kinda busy this week and I'm not in the shop right now. It doesn't have the double rows of dog holes, just a single row, if you're doing a lot of hand planing or relying on the dogs/holdfasts (if those are round) I might recommend the one you're looking at, that's a nice improvement. You can of course bore your own new dog holes in the bench though.
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Dec 21, 2011 21:57
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UPS ground would be 70$ minimum, we'd have to make a little crate to ship it probably so might be more like 80$, if you're picking it up you're already saving a chunk right there. Will let you know when he gets back to me
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Dec 22, 2011 01:31
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