wormil posted:

I saw a youtube of a girl building a tardis and freehanding her cuts on a tablesaw.

Bad Munki posted:

To be clear, it's not you we care about, it's your wood.

wormil posted:

He's made 2 versions of the Dutch chest, one big, one travel size but I think he is still using the English chest in his shop or that was the impression I got while chatting.

Guitarchitect posted:

can someone point me to (or explain) the benefits of a wood hand plane (like a krenov) versus a steel hand plane? the former seem like a pain in the butt to properly adjust, while a decent stanley plane just takes an adjustment here + there on the fly to take a deeper cut or straighten the iron. does it just come down to cost? and are the inconveniences of adjusting a wooden plane worth it?

Guitarchitect posted:

haha, I am starting to realize that - i keep reminding myself that I need furniture more than I need another tool! but making a nice little block plane won't be so bad, right? hehe

Bad Munki posted:

What is this bullshit? <>

Tempus Fugit posted:

Tempus Fugit posted:

Spongebob Tampax posted:

Why would anyone do that when you can just cut the box off at the base? Then you can muscle up and gently caress up your back.

Prathm posted:

What tool-brand makes good chisels? Preferably one available in Europe/ Denmark.

Oh dear me posted:

Has anyone any experience with or ideas for a workbench suitable for disabled people?

In particular I'm thinking of people who need to work from a chair (chiefly with hand tools). Obviously this causes difficulties at a standard workbench, both in reaching and in applying downward pressure. I've been thinking about ways to - in effect - rotate the bench 90 degrees, so that horizontal pressure can be used, but it occurred to me that I'm probably trying to reinvent the wheel: someone must have designed something like this already.

Oh dear me posted:

Yes, this is exactly the problem, and it does seem that using pull rather than push could help with it. I know nothing else about Japanese woodwork, so will have to do some research - thanks very much for the suggestion!

Chubby Checker posted:

I do a decent amount of woodworking and am disabled, I never really post but lurk a lot. I have no movement in my hands, some wrist srength, no tricep strength but my biceps are pretty yoked. C4-C5 Quadriplegic from an SCI.

So the Japanese stuff is spot on for sawing, I like the double sided razor saws from japanwoodworker.com I wrap the handles with tennis racket grip tape which helps a ton. For planes I prefer western metal bodied planes because their weight does all the work. I wear a snow boarding wrist guard to shove mallet handles down into to hold them for chiseling.

I have gone through 3 benches that I have designed and built and nothing has ever been as effective as my heavy steal saw horse adjusted as low as possible to still let my knees under. I attached a hardwood 1x6 to the top of the saw horse and use mainly C clamps o hold poo poo down. I sometimes wedge stuff under one side of whatever I'm cutting so that it has a slight tilt toward me. The 1x6 also has a groove in it so I can clamp both sides of the board and avoid splitting. For planing and bigger stuff I use a lovely 4/4 oak table along with various angle iron and c clamps.

I have a piece of 8/4 maple that I want to make into a nicer version of my saw horse/1x6 combo thing but haven't had time. I also have an accessible metal work shop with a 8x14 lathe and G0704 Mill, I also tig weld with a mouth switch that I rigged up. OSHA would not approve.

ImplicitAssembler posted:

I was actually reading about that recently. The key, apparently, is to make sure that you round the edges before planing it.

Cmdr. Chompernuts posted:

Why not grab a Hock blade and build the body?

quote:

Plane blade-laid steel blade, is made of steel

Stavrogin posted:

Wormil/carforum/chaotic, what do you think of the drying theory put forth by this guy- http://www.customwooddesign.com/turninggreenwood-1.html ?
He seems to hold if you turn it thin enough the first time and bag the bowl, it can dry anywhere between 2 days and 3 weeks. Seems crazy? But I don't know any better.

Also, what are bad woods to turn? I live in the northeast and am harvesting lumber here, so I'm not worrying about lignin vitae or cocobolo or anything. What are your favorites?

wormil posted:

Here is a picture of the burl I've been working on. The problem is that it broke off my Nova chuck and I'm not sure how to remount it securely. I don't have a Longworth or similar so that can fix the bottom. Any ideas on that are welcome. The red spots are wormholes I filled with padauk dust and CA glue.

mds2 posted:

I wish. I'd love to take a class with Roy.


Hey, can you guys tell me if you think this price is crazy. https://www.etsy.com/listing/166553013/japanese-style-wood-plane I'm trying to generate some extra xmas money. Is there a better place to try and sell planes?

Frogmanv2 posted:

Set your table saw blade to the required angle and add a stop block at the required length.

rotor posted:

I can't sharpen my scraper right. I file the old burr off, file the top flat, hone it with a diamond paddle, then run the side of a nicely chromed screwdriver at a ~20* angle down the edge, pressing pretty hard. I get a burr, but it doesn't do more than make sawdust, i get no curls.

there's like a billion different guides and a lot of them actually have some pretty different stuff goin on. How do y'all do it?

Stalin McHitler posted:

What's up with that? I bought a walnut log, actually the core from a log that was turned into laminate. It turns out it's full of metal chunks, I assume to keep the wood from splitting, and they dulled the poo poo out of my new roughing gouge because I had no idea it was going to be full of metal. I can't even tell how they got there because I can't see an entry point on the 3 I found, and am hesitant to use any more of this wood for anything for fear of ruining tools. What gives?

I thought of using magnets to try find the rest, but what's the best way to remove them before turning it with minimal loss of material?

c0ldfuse posted:

Alright I have a non-woodworking issue which I think could be solved by woodworking tools:

I just started a new job in injection molding and we have a constant issue with getting the gates (the point where plastic flows into the actual mold cavity) trimmed down as flush as possible. This is an eternal issue in the industry.

Here are two photos of an example piece which is moderately difficult:







Everything is being hand trimmed because it allows you to be more careful about not damaging the part. My idea is to get (as a trial before possibly upgrading to a better tool) a small dremel and table mount to operate it with a shaper bit and build a small part-specific load from top fixture/jig which only allows for the part to be inserted (blocks fingers due to size). It can be set up to allow for only the gate area to come into contact with the bit.

This sounds like it should work in my head just looking for confirmation before I pull the trigger on it.

Fog Tripper posted:

Need a recommendation.

We have a CNC station doing timber frame sections. The tenon and mortices are about 2" wide by varying depths of up to 12". Up till now the fitters have been chiseling the roughly routed mortices to smooth out the tool marks. What I want is a sanding attachment of some sort for drill bit or some such (chiseling is wonky and clumsy at best for this work and take too much time). I've seen cylindrical sanding thingies at big box home improvement places but only for sanding tables designed for them. Do bits exist for the scale I am looking for?

Edit:
Something like http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Diamond-Profile-Straight-Router/dp/B00SL1881I/ref=sr_1_8?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1422201911&sr=1-8 perhaps, but on a longer larger scale? (and obviously for wood rather than marble)