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Acetone might be a bit strong and dissolve the old finish. I dont think it matters if it's water over oil based poly as it sounds like it's fully cured at this point. Poly doesn't stick to itself though, so you'll have to rough up the surface to get a mechanical bond. A lot of people use floor buffers with sanding screens to do this.
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Nov 9, 2015 20:58
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I have this sander: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS65VC...sch+6%22+sander I'm very happy with it. Much better than the 5" porter cable I had before. With a vac it probably gets 95% of the dust.
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Feb 3, 2016 04:16
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the spyder posted:Has anyone built or bought a shop air filter? Like a JDS, Jet, or Steel City? I've been trying to find a small blower to make my own, but by the time I buy the filter bags, pre filter, etc I can almost justify a Jet. I built one a few years ago out of my old furnace blower and use it pretty frequently. I just built a frame out of 2x4s, used 1/8" masonite/hardboard for the sides, and 1" thick 16x20 filters (a cheap crappy one as a pre-filter and one of 3m's fine filters). I haul mine around the house for renovation projects to keep the dust down so I used the smaller filters; if it were going to be permanent in the shop I'd use 4" thick 20x25" filters. The price is about the same for even a 16x16" filter compared to a 20x25" filter given the same thickness.
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Feb 29, 2016 02:09
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Not all wood used in bowling alleys is maple. Maple is/was generally used in the first part of the lane for durability but the rest can be maple or pine. I bought an 8' maple section once for like $50 and pulled it apart to make a workbench. It wasn't worth the trouble to pull it apart, there were 3" spiral nails every 8-12".
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Mar 14, 2016 13:16
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Mr. Mambold posted:On that note, anyone tried one of these? https://www.festoolproducts.com/Fes...7sssRoCSx3w_wcB I got a Domino last year and it's fantastic. I got mine used so the price wasn't nearly that bad.
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Jun 2, 2016 23:32
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A lot of bowling alley lanes were only hard maple for the first section of the lane to absorb the impacts from bowling balls.
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Sep 1, 2016 03:56
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Javid posted:Fir, 5.5" (2x6), whatever the chart on the side says you can chew off at once at that width. I have that planer too with the same problem. You can try cleaning the roller wheels as well.
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Sep 15, 2016 04:20
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Any advice for how to get good (i.e. straight) reference lines on such a piece of wood? Use a laser level to shoot a line on it as a guide
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Dec 31, 2016 23:14
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Zhent posted:
I think I'd just fill the gaps with wood glue and saw dust.
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Jan 23, 2017 01:17
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Regarding sharpening, does anyone have an opinion on Lee Valley's diamond lapping film (PSA backed diamond sandpaper)? They seem inexpensive compared to diamond stones depending on the longevity.
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Feb 25, 2017 16:20
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You're trying to build a drop side crib? You're probably having trouble finding products because they were banned in 2011 for killing babies.
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Nov 30, 2017 12:36
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Tres Burritos posted:It's a little pinker than those other photos and the smell is strong when cut / planed so mayyyybe some kind of cedar? I'm not 100% sure what cedar smells like tho. looks like douglas fir to me
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Jan 20, 2018 20:02
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Yeah those angle brackets won't help much with racking. If you don't go the plywood or diagonal cross brace route, you could probably get away with using those cheap stamped metal shelf brackets that only cost a couple bucks at home depot or lowes.
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Mar 30, 2018 23:25
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The Spookmaster posted:Anyone have a ridgid ts3650? Found one for $250 but i don't know about the build quality of older ridgid stuff? I have one that I got cheap as it's missing the wings and the mobile base. I'm overall happy with it, the only real thing is that dust can gum up the screw that tilts the blade and if you try turning it to hard it'll bow out the right side of the saw. That happened to me but it hasn't affected the usability of the saw. Dust collection is merely okay stock, just using a shop vac. I cant imagine it's any worse than any other contractor type saw.
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May 26, 2018 16:08
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Yeah you don't necessarily need a dust collector with the dw735. I just hook mine up to a 4" flexible hose and exhaust out into my yard. You could also exhaust it into a cheap dust collector bag and be fine. Just letting itself exhaust the chips out worked better than using my 16 gallon ridgid vacuum in conjunction with the planer. Also apparently you can stack a 5% cashback deal with samsung pay with the the 15% coupon? I might buy a grizzly g0440 dust collector I've been thinking about.
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Nov 21, 2018 19:45
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cakesmith handyman posted:
You can check out the festool mft version. The eurekazone ez-1 is also somewhat similar At least the kreg version would seem cheaper?
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Mar 9, 2019 22:45
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm in the middle of some remedial carpentry and need to trim back a 2x4 in situ. What's the best way for me to do this without spending hours with a chisel, manually planing vertically (which I have trouble with), or spending a bunch of money on a power planer? It's about 1cm off plumb through about two thirds of the height, and can't be removed without causing a lot of problems. A belt sander and low grit belt would be another option if you don't mind the dust. Pine sands stupid fast.
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Apr 7, 2019 05:58
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 11:38 |
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Things don't stick very well to cured polyurethane, you even have to scuff up cured poly to get a mechanical bond for additional layers. If you want to see how it looks with just poly, you can wet it with mineral spirits and that will give an okay approximation.
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Dec 29, 2022 23:40
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