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alnilam posted:I'm looking to make a long skinny table (to go behind a couch), but looking to make it kinda Maybe "hairpin legs" are what you're looking for?
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Feb 15, 2023 14:26
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style i.e. finish the tabletop slab and slap on some premade legs. What's a good source for mid century modern ish metal table legs for projects like this? I know I've heard of them being a thing you can get.
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alnilam posted:Baby level post compared to much of the other stuff itt but, My Looks nice! I'm also new at this and did a similar table project recently (glued two boards together, sand, finish, attach legs). It was a good "first" project, involved a lot of stuff that other projects will require without any joinery or the like on top of that. Pretty high reward to effort ratio. Incidentally I've also decided I like oil-based poly better. Especially thinning it and wiping it on. I used water-based for another project I did (making a board for a board game) and found it much more finicky.
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Mar 14, 2023 23:08
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Skunkduster posted:Before making any operation on a power tool, think about what could go wrong and where your hands or body is going to be in relation to the tool if/when it does go wrong. The problem with that is that it takes education and experience to learn what can go wrong. I'd consider the table saw the most dangerous of the tools you mentioned. With any power tool, I have some personal rules - no long sleeves, no jewelry, no neckties/hoodie strings/apron straps/long hair or anything else that can dangle down and can get caught in the tool. With the table saw, there is a lot that can go wrong that isn't intuitive at all because there are a lot of factors in play when making a cut that you have no way of knowing about without education or experience. There are plenty of videos on youtube about table saw safety and accidents, so that would definitely be worth checking out. Regarding table saw safety: while I don't have one I did watch this guy's circular saw safety video when I got one of those and he seems to have a knack for explaining this stuff: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gN_w0OD6oIs
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May 4, 2023 14:06
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jarofpiss posted:how are benchmark combination squares? should i just bite the bullet and get the starrett instead? I bought a PEC "blemish" square. These are factory rejects due to cosmetic issues, not accuracy, and they're discounted quite a bit. The place I got mine from (Taylor Tools) seem to be out right now but this other site I've seen mentioned on reddit has them.
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May 11, 2023 14:32
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Everything on amazon these days is just drop-shippers reselling products they never actually stock. The business model is basically some dude with a laptop in Bali photoshopping the product into images for marketing and having it shipped directly from the factory to you while pocketing the markup.
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May 15, 2023 15:27
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Cool video showing the effect of chipbreakers and different cut depths when planing
HappyHippo fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Jun 12, 2023 |
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Jun 12, 2023 14:32
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Juat throwing it out there: you can buy 6 foot levels that should be straight enough
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Jun 17, 2023 14:06
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alnilam posted:Looking for recommendations for a general-use plane, like if you're going to have just one plane. My woodworking is very much "it's fine" / handyperson level stuff so please keep that in mind here... I'm just tired of struggling to adjust my Stanley 110 block plane that I found a decade ago in my grandparents ' basement. I was going to try to up my plane game by sharpening the blade but I looked up how to adjust it and found a video called "Stanley 110: the plane that nobody likes" and decided maybe I should just get a better plane. No matter what plane you get you're going to need to sharpen it. I say learn to sharpen first and then decide if your 110 is good enough for your purposes or if you want a number 5.
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Jul 1, 2023 23:03
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I've also been working with wood I saved from the dump. I found an old couch frame being tossed out. Wish I had a better "before" picture but the wood looked like this:  I turned it into this:   I made an imgur post with the details if anyone's interested: https://imgur.com/a/CvnmQa4 (some of my comments aren't showing up but whatever) This was my second* real project, and the first involving actual joinery (I previously made an endtable with hairpin legs). Everything was made with hand tools (plus a powered drill). I'm very happy with the result, I learned a lot along the way. There were a few things I would do different but overall I consider it a success. *not counting a game board I made from mdf, and my work bench made with plywood/2x4s.
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Jul 28, 2023 15:10
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Hypnolobster posted:This is super nice, and really incredible for a first joinery project. drat good job. You're right, it's definitely ash too. Thanks! I was discouraged by how loose the dovetails were fitting at first but that peening technique described in the details really saved my rear end. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Looks great! Man I hear you. Tracking down a decent (edit: and affordable) plow plane has become my white whale. I got this one from some guy on marketplace. It's not homemade, but I don't know if they still make them: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/mujingfang-rosewood-adjustable-plough-plane (edit: I think they have them on AliExpress?) As for how I like it: not a lot, but it can get the job done I guess. There's no adjustable depth stop, although the depth it plows to is ok. It's very had to set the iron correctly - you either get no shavings at all or it digs in hard. With a lot of patience I can get it to the sweet spot where it's nice to use. I looked up videos on how to set irons in wooden planes but they didn't seem to work. I think it's because the wedge is held in place with a metal bar which has dug an impression into it with use. The irons need to be sharpened by hand, which I'm personally fine with. There are no square angles on them to use a honing guide with - they taper back from the front. I guess with time that means they'll be cutting thinner and thinner grooves? You pull it towards you, instead of pushing it away from you, which I kinda like actually. The fence doesn't really stay put very well. My solution was to wedge a piece of wood between the fence and the body, that seemed to hold well. I got an old Stanley 45 from an estate sale that I'm trying to turn into a user. Most of the irons were missing, I think I'll just use Lee Valley ones for that. Other pieces I've been replacing myself. I probably should have just paid the extra dough for a complete one but whatever. HappyHippo fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jul 28, 2023 |
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Jul 28, 2023 16:38
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ryanrs posted:I have a couch frame that looks like that. It is an old couch that has been in the family for 40 years. But it is beat up and probably not worth reupholstering(?). I think the frame is walnut. Long straight rails like in your pics. That sounds awesome but unfortunately a few thousand miles out of the way for me
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Jul 29, 2023 13:29
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CommonShore posted:My neighbor just gave me this out of nowhere. Wouldn't even accept cash after I told him it was a sought after item. God drat dude
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Sep 7, 2023 22:37
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I got a "blemished" PEC combination square for a very reasonable price, but it looks like they're sold out currently Edit: This site also sells them https://www.harryepstein.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Squares+pec+blemished HappyHippo fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Sep 29, 2023 |
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Sep 29, 2023 14:29
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Looking up what these look like, I would imagine that you want the screws to be as long as possible, and to use as many as possible (most of the pictures i saw had two hinges with six screws each).
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Sep 30, 2023 14:53
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I have neither the space nor the budget for a bandsaw, plus I've been enjoying this whole hand-tools-woodworking thing. But I would like to resaw wood occasionally. And I also find rip cuts with my ryoba difficult to keep straight. So I made myself a frame saw with some scrap wood and a bandsaw blade: Did some test cuts and it works! Going to take some practice to cut straight, but it rips though wood fast. I do find it's difficult to get started, especially in hardwoods. I think the TPI of this blade is too low, I may order a blade with a higher TPI at some point. Overall I'm satisfied with the results. You can see the full build here: https://imgur.com/a/1envRO7
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Nov 2, 2023 03:13
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Thanks. Yeah I was basically copying this frame saw I've seen around, and the blade that thing comes with is very low TPI (3.5) so I went with a similarly low TPI for mine. The bandsaw blade has a positive rake though while that saw has a 0° rake, which might also have something to do with it.
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Nov 2, 2023 03:42
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CommonShore posted:I'm gonna do this. What are the specs on that bandsaw blade? This is the blade I bought: https://www.busybeetools.com/products/blade-93-1-2in-x1-2in-x-0-25-3tpi-low-tensi.html I do want to stress that I have no idea what I'm doing so this might not be the best possible blade to buy.
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Nov 2, 2023 03:56
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Bizarro Buddha posted:That's interesting, what is it about a frame saw that makes it easier to do rip cuts? Is it because you can hold it on either side and feel if your hands are not level with each other, compared to worrying about whether the handle of a saw is twisting as you move it back and forth? I think this is definitely a factor. Another is that it's a two handed saw. Resawing take a lot of effort because you're cutting the thicker dimension of the wood for its full length; being able to push with both hands helps a lot. I also find it easier to steer. When I tried resawing with my ryoba, as soon as it got off course it was game over. With this thing you can get back on track relatively easily.
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Nov 2, 2023 14:36
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HappyHippo posted:I have neither the space nor the budget for a bandsaw, plus I've been enjoying this whole hand-tools-woodworking thing. But I would like to resaw wood occasionally. And I also find rip cuts with my ryoba difficult to keep straight. So I made myself a frame saw with some scrap wood and a bandsaw blade: Update on this: just to be ridiculous, I added a fence.  I usually set it with a ruler before locking down the bolt. You do this on both sides  The blade can still wander a little because it can flex, but with some practise I've been able to cut fairly accurately, maybe to within 1/16" if I'm careful.
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Nov 20, 2023 21:41
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Some questions about the order of operations: I'm pretty new to this. With my projects so far, I've used the following order: glue, smooth (sand/scrape/plane), finish (varnish). But it's rather difficult to sand things with inside corners or other complicated shapes. So I've googled around and it seems some people do things in other orders. You could also: Option 2: smooth, glue, finish You'd have to be careful with the glue-up to not damage anything because you've already done all your smoothing. Also how do you deal with squeeze-out here? I've generally just sanded/planed squeeze-out after but you won't be able to do that most likely. Some people say to remove the squeeze-out with a damp cloth right after gluing/clamping, others say you can wait some amount of time (how long?) and it'll be gummy and easier to remove. Any preferences? Option 3: Smooth, finish, glue I'm guessing to do this, you have to tape off areas in the joinery to prevent the finish from interfering with the glue. Doesn't seem very feasible if you're doing dovetails for example. Would have to be very careful with the glue-up to not damage or mar the finish. Same questions with squeeze-out as above. Will the glue not adhere to the finished areas? I'm working on a small table. Basic design, the base consists of 4 legs joined by aprons with mortise and tenon joints. I'm thinking of going with option 3 for the base (the top will be attached later with buttons). Do I need to tape the insides of the mortise if I'm using wipe on poly, or is it unlikely to drip down inside? For the top, I'll go with option 1 (glue the panel up, then smooth and finish). Does this sound reasonable? I guess the answers here are "it depends", but I'd love to hear from more experienced folks their thought process when approaching this.
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Dec 19, 2023 16:51
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Thanks for the replies re order of operations
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Dec 20, 2023 14:24
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Seems kind of a shame to paint over mahogany.
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Jan 16, 2024 17:14
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The cat's mat remover broke So I made a new one  She approves  This was very fun! Used a scrap of ash. Coping saw for the main body; spokeshave, rasps, files and chisels for the shaping. Oh, and sanding, lots of sanding. Finished with 3 coats of BLO. There's something supremely satisfying about using a spokeshave. Full build album here: https://imgur.com/a/nu1hv8I HappyHippo fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jan 20, 2024 |
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Jan 20, 2024 18:02
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Bought myself a thickness planer (DeWalt 735) and just used it for the first time. Gotta say, it's pretty awesome. I'm sticking mostly to hand tools but I'm hoping this will help with what was the most tedious part of that.
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Jan 31, 2024 20:08
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My list would be: plane, chisels (+ mallet), two pull saws (Ryoba and Dozuki), marking knife, marking gauge, combination square, sharpening stones (get a $20 set of diamond stones off Amazon, they're like 400/600/1000/1200 grits, they're perfectly fine) and a strop. Oh and clamps of course. They can also serve as work holding until you figure out a bench of some sort. If you get the plane vintage, it's really not that much money. The standard narex chisels are pretty good for the price and cheap. And pull saws aren't expensive for the quality, plus you seem to want to go in that direction anyway. Rex Kruger has a video about those cheap diamond stones I recommend watching.
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Feb 11, 2024 05:51
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Bob Mundon posted:Only change here is while Narex chisels are great I would no longer qualify them as cheap. Word got out and prices are higher than they were a few years ago. The good news about cheap chisels is while the metal tends to be softer that means it's easier to sharpen. You'll have to sharpen more often but hey, practice. I would get a cheap set where the handles feel comfortable for you. Yeah I guess it depends on what you consider expensive. I got a set of those classic narex chisels (1/4", 1/2", 3/4", 1") for $40 CAD off marketplace. Looking at Lee Valley's website right now, that set is $80. But you don't really need 4 sizes, you could get 3 sizes (1/4", 1/2" and 3/4") for $60, or maybe even just two (1/4" and 3/4") for $40 and that would be good enough for most things. It depends on if you'd rather have it right now, or if you're willing to be patient and find a good deal on marketplace (or similar).
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Feb 11, 2024 18:31
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Anyone use painter's pyramids? I was finishing a coffee table top, and I had just gotten these for that exact purpose. The top is I believe Douglas fir. I did a coat of wipe-on poly first on the bottom and then flipped it over and did a coat on the top. After the first coat dried I went back and there were depressions in the wood where the pyramids were. I would expect some slight marring of the finish, but there were depressions in the top, which was only on the pyramids before the finish was applied. Is this just because this is soft wood? Kind of annoying.
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Feb 19, 2024 15:02
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esquilax posted:How many pyramids did you use vs how heavy is the table top? I used all 10, it's not a particularly heavy table top, 17x32", 1" thick. But I don't think they all made contact. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Dougfir earlywood is suuuper soft and I imagine that's the issue. You can put a little painter's tape over the tip of the pyramid to cushion it a little bit which usually helps. Ok hopefully that's the issue. I can just finish this off without using them, I'll save them for hardwoods.
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Feb 19, 2024 16:04
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I got them from Lee Valley.
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Feb 19, 2024 16:38
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Made this little coffee table thing:   Made from a discarded couch I found. I think it's douglas fir. The pieces were knotty and not long enough so I ripped them into thirds and glued them up in a butcher block style for the top. I also turned them to reveal the quarter-sawn grain. Things that went well: I like the way it looks. I'm happy with how the splayed legs turned out. I also like the look of the "butcher block" style top and the chamfers underneath. This was my first piece of furniture using mortise and tenon joinery. The splayed joint didn't really add to the difficulty. I finally bought a power tool, a thickness planer. Space is very limited but this fits under my bench. Aside from that and a power drill, everything else was hand tools.The planer definitely cuts down on the most tedious part of using hand tools (thicknessing). Can't wait to use it again for the next project. Things that went not so well: Chopping mortises in softwood sucks. You only get a limited number of test fits because each one damages the joint a little more. Because the edge of the mortises kept tearing out, I haunched both sides of the tenons, which took more time and introduced more potential error. I should probably start going to the lumber yard instead of finding random wood on the road. The glueup for the base didn't go well. It was difficult to square and in the end there were gaps in the joints. I should have done the short aprons first, and then the long aprons after that. Or perhaps, the short aprons, and then chop the mortises for the long aprons. It was tedious to cut the tenons so they didn't collide inside the joint. There are some gaps in the top where the long pieces butt up against each other. I was too lazy to find a way to apply pressure with clamps in that direction. This is something only I will notice. I hate sanding, but I'm not confident enough to just go with a planed/scraped surface. In the future I think I'll try to get most of the way there with the plane/scraper and then go straight to sanding with the final grit. HappyHippo fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Feb 22, 2024 |
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Feb 22, 2024 00:00
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PokeJoe posted:looks good friend. let me give you a softwood tenon tip: make a single hardwood test mortice to sneak up on the tenon as a "master" and you can prevent messing up your piece on test fits. if the tenon fibers get a bit compressed it will expand slightly when the moisture of the glue seeps in Thanks, that's a great tip about the test mortise, will definitely be using that in the future
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Feb 22, 2024 16:20
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If you're attempting to pull things together with a screw, you need to drill out one of the pieces first. The threads of the screw should only bite into one of the pieces.
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Feb 25, 2024 22:22
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I made one of these  Walnut and ash, I believe. Found the wood on the side of the road. I wish it was a tad thicker but it'll do.
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Feb 29, 2024 23:44
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Thanks, can't wait to start hitting things with it, it's far too pretty right now. Ash seems like a good wood for the handle. We'll see how long the head holds up though. Can always make a new one
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Mar 1, 2024 00:18
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:i just watch non-american-centric youtube stuff like dylan iwakuni or grandpa amu, while the more slickly produced ones are probably still selling something it's woodworking classes or domestic investment in Fuijan or some poo poo that has no effect on what they're actually doing or how they do it, beyond that they mysteriously have an infinite supply of time to make every joint absurdly complicated Thanks for these suggestions As for my own, I've been enjoying this guy's youtube recently. Relevant to the discussion, he's like the anti-gear guy, he works with a very basic set of hand tools on wood he finds at home depot. He's got kind of a thick accent but you get used to it.
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Mar 13, 2024 15:08
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I dunno if that will work but this video shows another way: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mTnVDl6Y6u4
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Mar 15, 2024 18:15
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Never done this before. One down, 3 to go:
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Mar 29, 2024 21:27
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Not having owned a MF plane, allegedly it was to make the connection between the chipbreaker and the iron more secure: https://smallworkshop.co.uk/2018/03/25/the-millers-falls-two-part-lever-cap/
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Mar 30, 2024 20:42
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Thanks, assembled another one today (I'm essentially limited by clamps at this point), two more left and it's on to face frames.
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Mar 30, 2024 21:56
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Amazing Also what's that below it? The part we can see looks pretty nice.
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Apr 3, 2024 02:31
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