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I've been doing a lot of jewelry boxes with the shop on my University's campus, hopefully I'll be able to get some pics up tonight. Hopefully I'll be getting my Lie Nielsen block plane and card scraper soon
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Apr 9, 2008 20:32
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hamsterhuey85 posted:Those cutting boards look great! You have to give us entirely more details on how you want this board to look/function. Are you looking to build a case around a standard scrabble board? Or are you looking to make a wooden playing surface? Do you want the dividers that hold the pieces on more modern boards? Seeing as you're relatively new to this I'd recommend you look over the wood whisperers video on cutting boards. Keep in mind that he uses end grain facing up for his boards and that is entirely unnecessary for your purposes. As far as tools you would need, a circular saw, and some clamps are really all you need for that. Make sure to get clamps wide enough to clamp the board together. EDIT: a drawing would really help us determine what you need and what is doable (even a rough mspaint drawing) Cmdr. Chompernuts fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Apr 10, 2008 |
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Apr 10, 2008 17:30
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Jesus christ are those dovetails handcut? They look gorgeous, even if you did cheat a little. Finding solutions to mistakes is one of the biggest parts of woodworking.
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Apr 24, 2008 23:00
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I so badly want one of those leigh's, Handcutting dovetails is a bitch and I can never get them right. But, unfortunately its not in the budget.
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Apr 25, 2008 15:02
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MDF is still useful in woodworking. I've made a couple torsion boxes out of the stuff (although that was for shop furniture). Kaleo Kala made a badass entertainment center by veneering a MDF torsion box. That thing will support a ton of weight but looks like hardwood. It's also hella handy for making jigs. The stuff never warps. I personally could not live without a table saw. If you have access to a truck you can usually get good deals off craigslist. However what you need depends entirely on what you want to do in woodworking. Do you have any thoughts or projects that have caught your eye?
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May 12, 2008 02:50
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PMan_ posted:handle problem Are you sure you can't get a router? You could get a cheapo fixed base at lowes for ~$60. and as long as you take your time and make shallow passes that get gradually deeper you should be fine. However I would avoid the round overs. Router bits are god drat expensive (At least for the ones that are worth a drat) so get a good straight bit and call it a day
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May 29, 2008 02:12
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PMan_ posted:That is definitely much cheaper than other routers I was looking at, but would that router be decent, or am I better off just socking some money away each month for a more expensive router? I had been previously eyeing up a DeWalt router kit that goes for around $250 on Amazon. If you can wait for the DeWalt, I say do it. I have nothing but good things to say about DeWalt routers, (in fact I have good things to say about most of their tools)
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Jun 2, 2008 00:07
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Catenoid posted:desk stuff Making square things looks boring at first, but its crucial to get an understanding of joinery. Joinery is much easier at 90 degrees most of the time. I've been doing this for a couple years and that desk would be a huge stretch for me, I have an idea of how to do most of it but even then I would probably do a lot of mock ups. Even if someone made it in advance and left 100,000 detailed instructions I doubt I could pull it off. I definitely second the New Yankee workshop idea. I've learned loads by watching a combination of that, the wood whisperer, T-Chisel, and reading a variety of books based on projects I want to do (Taunton press makes some really good ones). However, none of it means anything without practice Some day I really hope to be able to make furniture like that, but until then I'll let T-Chisel guide me through some more basic things.
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Jun 9, 2008 04:14
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blackjack posted:box stuff I actually make a lot of jewelry boxes. what tools do you have access to? At the minimum I pray you have a table saw. Boxes are fun as hell projects, but because they're small every little mistake is amplified. As far as wood I always tell people to avoid home depot. You could make it out of pine but it will come out much nicer as a hardwood and home depot's hard wood is limited to crappy cut oak. If you could make it to a lumber yard I highly recommend soft maple for a first project, its very easy to work with. Another benefit to the lumber yard is they can mill the board for you so you don't have to worry about not having some of the tools. Next get GOOD HINGES, I used to by these little crappy ones at lowes, but then one day I got some good ones at Rockler and it made a world of difference. Box construction is largely done by taking a large board and cutting it into 4 sides so the grain will align. If you have a table saw you could pull of mitered corners (like it the picture), but it couldn't hurt to do a butt joint for your first project. Once the sides are cut, you cut a straight groove down the inside of the sides so that a lid and bottom can be fitted. then you glue it together, wait a day, and cut it open. This book is AWESOME, lot's of pictures and good explanations http://www.amazon.com/Tauntons-Complete-Illustrated-Guide-Making/dp/1561585939/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1213841407&sr=8-1
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Jun 19, 2008 03:10
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PMan_ posted:Okay, here's another question. As we know, I’m new to woodworking and had initially wanted to plane my boards down using hand planes. Since then… Well, planers are looking better and better. As far as jointing goes, I figured I could just use the table saw to get a minuscule amount off. Thats not a planer at all. That is strictly a Jointer, and it will only flat one face, it will not do the other side parallel. I'm going to lay it out like this for you. I don't have a jointer because I consistently use boards that are longer then 6 inches wide and 8-12 inch jointers are expensive. I would definitely recommend getting a planer though. With a planer you can get one side relatively flat, but you don't have to get it perfect with hand planes. Then run the board, flat side down, through the planer, and then flip it over and do it again. This is my method of milling boards and it has served me well. A jointer eliminates the need to use hand planes and is more precise. If you decide to use hand planes exclusively you are in for a lot of work and a lot of practice. hand planes are great tools but they require a great deal of maintenance and practice. The problem with using a jointer exclusively is if you run 2 long sides they may not come out parallel, and that can be a huge problem.
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Jun 29, 2008 23:43
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TheChimney posted:What is the bare minimum required to start this hobby? I am a poor student. Or is this one of those things that you shouldn't bother with unless you have a decent chunk of change? Tell us more about your situation. I have been saving up so I can afford a shop when I have my own place, but at the moment I use a shop that my university has and let's students use. I've used it so much they now have me teach and had me rewrite the safety quiz, which was last written by an idiot.
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Jul 19, 2008 19:56
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One Legged Ninja posted:Sharp saws help a lot, too. If you have a traditional style saw, go here and read about sharpening, get a good file and a flea market saw set, and rig up a couple pieces of wood into a saw vise. Not only can you customize your saw to fit your needs, but you'll be able to feel the difference between a dull saw and a sharp one. You can also watch some videos on proper technique. Honestly, if you're a beginner who has never used a tuned up saw before, you're going to be better off getting a veritas file holder and set. Most Stanley 42s I run into need some TLC, and learning to tune up a set and a saw is a lot to handle at once. The file holder is fantastic for getting rake right, and nice (but less helpful) for fleam. QPZIL posted:Today I learned that I am terrible with a hand plane. Focus on the high points. Use the side of your plane to check for flatness. Use 2 planes turned on their sides as winding sticks to check for wind. Make sure your plane bottom is flat, and of course practice, practice, practice. 220v110 discussion: Do you guys worry about burning out your motor faster running tools at 110 on double amperage?
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Apr 22, 2013 19:01
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I just got a Grizzly g690, which is only rated at 220v. I was thinking about getting their 2HP cabinet, which is rated for both, and would run off the 110v 20amp outlets already in my garage, but then I decided 
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Apr 22, 2013 19:21
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I am lucky to live next to their warehouse. Borrowed my bro in law's truck and asked my boss's boss to help me unload 400lbs of cast iron excellence. Pro tip: The table saws come bolted to the pallet  What are y'all's favorite method for flattening plane bottoms? I've decided to stop being dumb about my old Stanley Handyman smoother and fix it up. The good news is that the curve is convex, the bad news is that it's pretty deep.
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Apr 24, 2013 18:55
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Missouri. Which saw did you buy?
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Apr 24, 2013 19:05
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Bad Munki posted:This one: http://www.grizzly.com/products/17-Bandsaw-2HP-w-Cast-Iron-Trunnion/G0513X2 Jealous I just ordered a shoulder vise and a vise screw for my roubo. The top is almost done, I'll have pics up this weekend.
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Apr 24, 2013 19:26
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I am less than a mile away from a warehouse full of those. You are making it hard to not go get one. 
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Apr 25, 2013 16:07
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You can get the official base for $70, is that worth not drilling the base? Or you can be a man and scoot your tools around when they need to be moved.
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Apr 25, 2013 18:48
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QPZIL posted:After using my grandpa's smoothing plane and block plane that are all wonky and rusty, I picked up a Stanley no. 5 off eBay for $30 and it's in pristine condition. Camber that blade a la this article: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/sharpen-a-fore-plane It will eat everything in its path
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Apr 25, 2013 19:48
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Psh, that loser bought his flywheel. http://www.manytracks.com/lathe/lathe.pdf Someday I'll get around to doing this.
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Apr 26, 2013 15:07
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Final glue up and edges trimmed. The notch in the front will house an end vise. I'll be giving it a final surfacing this week. learned a lot on this one, first time I've gone full galoot on planing. Didn't use a power planer/jointer once on this.
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Apr 30, 2013 15:17
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Of course with his budget he could buy about 3 planes, a backsaw and 2 chisels from Lie-Nielsen. Or 250 Stanley #5s on ebay
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Apr 30, 2013 17:42
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To be more helpful, what exactly do you want to work on/build?
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Apr 30, 2013 17:58
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I would recommend you start with a table saw, a planer, and maybe a jointer, after that buy tools as you need them. Powermatic and Delta generally are considered top brands. Grizzly is good, and about half the price. Go with a contractor style saw, or if you can get a 220v outlet a cabinet saw. Are you interested in doing any hand work? QPZIL posted:What more could he need really I got a #8 in great condition off ebay this weekend, gonna flatten errything.
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Apr 30, 2013 18:33
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Grab a set of Marples chisels (new), and a used Stanley #5, and #9 1/2 on ebay. Get something that doesn't look totally rusted, and appears to have a flat bottom. This insures that you'll really only need to sharpen it to get it in decent working condition. If you have more money, maybe look at getting new planes from Lie-Nielsen or Veritas (sold by Lee-Valley) Sharpening will stay with you as long as you use hand tools. Get used to it, allocate $200 for waterstones/oilstones/DMT plates.
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Apr 30, 2013 18:56
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Bad Munki posted:I gotta disagree on this, contractor's saws are poo poo. Small tables, lightweight construction, and generally fewer safety features make for a greater potential to harm oneself while reducing the overall utility of the tool. I don't think there's much of anything you can do on a contractor's saw that you can't just as effectively and far more safely do with, say, a miter saw and/or a handheld circ saw. Are we talking portable job site saws, or fixed metal frame based contractor saws? If you're ripping 4'x8' sheet goods then yes I'll take the circular saw, but ripping boards? Many contractor saws are up to the task, and more and more are including true riving knives and full guards.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:00
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You're looking at both extremes. http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/10-1-3-4-HP-Left-Tilting-Contractor-Style-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0713 http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/10-2-HP-Contractor-Style-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0661 These are what I consider to be a "contractor saw" and would be good to get. http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3HP-220V-Cabinet-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0690 I own this, and it's great. No one has ever been unhappy with a unisaw, but you don't have to drop 3k.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:13
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I can't say what Marples used to be, but I have 2 sets of chisels, a nice set of Robert Sorby chisels, which I bought on their reputation for hard lathe tools, and a set of Marples. I use the Sorby for fine paring work, and the Marples as a set of "beat em up" chisels (I use them less and less since getting a set of mortising chisels). I find that Marples are still good, and probably the best discount chisels you can get. They are certainly workable. That said, it's nice to have a fine, well performing chisel, I like the Sorby set I have. Can't speak to other brands.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:54
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Looks like they just rebranded the Rigid
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May 2, 2013 13:36
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FquL0GG9RGI Imagine your finger as the hot dog. They are really expensive, and in retrospect I probably should have saved the extra coin to get one. I'm not scared of losing my fingers on my current saw, but are my fingers worth an extra $1000? Yes. Cmdr. Chompernuts fucked around with this message at 18:39 on May 2, 2013 |
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May 2, 2013 18:36
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Excellent. To be more helpful here's a review: http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/article/tool-review-sawstop-contractors-saw.aspx The Biesemeyer fence is a worthy upgrade, as are cast iron extensions Cmdr. Chompernuts fucked around with this message at 18:47 on May 2, 2013 |
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May 2, 2013 18:43
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3HP is great, especially when dealing with hardwoods, but not necessary. It will require a 220v outlet, factor in an extra $100-$200 to have an electrician do that. IMO if you're going with the cabinet its worth the extra money, but 4 posts ago you were talking about getting a $500-$650 metal stand contractor type saw. Why not get the SawStop contractor?
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May 2, 2013 18:56
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That's generally a good way of thinking about tools, but I doubt you'll be replacing the sawstop contractor anytime soon, it will save you $1000 over the cabinet saw, and that's 1/5th of your budget.
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May 2, 2013 19:09
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Clearly the only answer is to restore a stanley #20
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May 18, 2013 03:51
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I'm getting an old Craftsman drill press this weekend. Are the v-link belts worth it for drill presses, or is that excessive?
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May 20, 2013 22:30
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Magnus Praeda posted:A router table or jointer with a matching tongue and groove cutter set or a table saw with a stacked dado set. Or do it the old fashioned way and use a fillister plane for the tongue and a router plane for the groove. Stanley 48! edit: router planes can clean up the groove, but are obnoxious when you have to keep resetting the cutter. A plow plane would be a better choice.
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Jun 20, 2013 20:49
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This is also a good resource http://video.pbs.org/video/2172600556/ You can get by with just a #5 with a cambered blade for roughing work, and a spare straight blade for finishing.
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Jul 2, 2013 13:24
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Regarding large heavy power tools: I bought a full size Grizzly table saw, and picked it up since I live next to one of their warehouses. I got the help of a friend and my father in law, but to be honest, 2 of us could have handled it. Regarding planer/jointer: Get hand planes and learn to true a face, and joint the edges, but buy a power planer to make a parallel face. Cmdr. Chompernuts fucked around with this message at 13:49 on Jul 9, 2013 |
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Jul 9, 2013 13:46
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How far from your shop is your electrical panel? It cost me $120 to hire an electrician to wire a 220v outlet, but my panel is in my shop.
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Jul 13, 2013 17:24
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Effingham posted:Paranoia is starting to get to me, and I've begun looking more and more at the SawStop. Thing is, comparably they're more expensive. But my fingers are worth the extra grand or so... In retrospect if I had waited another 2-3 months I could have saved up the difference to get this instead of my Grizzly, and I wish I had. I'm not scared of my saw, and I'm always very conscience when I'm operating it, but $1000 is absolutely worth a finger. Also it's a great quality saw, and the initial purchase hurts, but you'll never regret it after that. Also don't let the size intimidate you, I went with Grizzly because I live next to their warehouse, me and 2 other guys got the saw off the back of a pickup and it wasn't that bad. Cmdr. Chompernuts fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 15:00
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