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Got these this weekend A 1950's UK made Stanley 71 Router plane, and a Stanley #4 type 13  Got the #4 from Walt at brasscityrecords.com, the sole was flat, and after a quick frog adjustment and sharpening I got some pretty fine shavings. The price was very low, I recommend him highly.  Also made one of those "moxon" vises, because all the cool kids are doing it 
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Jul 16, 2013 13:44
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 21:47 |
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The #8 and #6 look to be type 19, which means 1950s-1960s The #5 I believe is pre WW2 based on the lever cap not having the Kidney shaped hole, does the blade have Sweetheart logo? I suspect it's type 13-15 The block plane looks like a 65 http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan9.htm I love the knuckle lever cap, and you have the low angle version. See here for more about aging http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/type_study.php#Type 19 Nice get, dude
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Jul 17, 2013 14:40
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On second thought the #8 may be far more modern, based on the chrome lever cap
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Jul 17, 2013 15:23
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On the #8 I wouldn't worry as long as the front, back, and both sides of the mouth are in line. IMO the only plane that needs to be truly super flat is a smoother. Mark the spots I mentioned with a sharpie and put some long adhesive sandpaper on your table saw, back and forth until you no longer see the sharpie. If you're going to use the #6 as a fore plane, then don't even bother flattening it, if you want to use it as a small jointer, then repeat the process from the #8
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Jul 17, 2013 15:34
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To expand, here's how I use/maintain my planes. I have a 5,6,and 8. I used to use the 6 as a jointer, but finally bought a #8 a couple months ago. When I flatten a board I first go cross grain with the #5. My #5 has a rounded iron, and I have no idea if the soul is flat or not, it's used for rough work only. Then I go at it with the grain with the #6 or #8 (depending on the length of the board), to remove the curves left by the iron on the #5. It IS important that these planes be relatively flat. To flatten, mark the front edge, the front and back edge of the mouth and the back edge of the plane with a sharpie. Use a long piece of sandpaper across a table saw/jointer/piece of granite and start flattening. Keep one hand on the knob and one hand on the tote, and apply even pressure. It's worth noting that many people make sure the sides of the sole are in line too, but if you're also using this plane as to joint boards you'll probably develop a convex hollow down the length of the plane, this usually keeps things in line naturally. I baby my smoothing plane, and flatten it regularly, fortunately it is smaller and easier to flatten. Regularly oil/wax your planes. WD-40 is good, but I like to use canning wax from the grocery store. It's amazing how much easier it is to push a waxed bottom plane.
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Jul 17, 2013 16:45
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Dust can lead to rust (salts in the dust catch water in the air). Your plan sounds good, I usually just oil my planes, though.
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Jul 17, 2013 16:56
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re:desk construction Dados could be cut with a router, but you will need some sort of cross brace to prevent racking.
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Jul 19, 2013 15:22
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Tell me about your hand tools, Mr. Monopoly!
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Jul 25, 2013 21:38
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A couple things. Sanders (barring a drum sander) are terrible at flattening. This would be a great excuse to learn hand-planing skills. Minwax actually makes good finishes. I believe Fine Woodworking rated it #1 in a blind test, even above General Finishes.
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Aug 7, 2013 23:34
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re: workbench for the disabled Just remembered Schwartz posting about the Milkman's workbench a while back, would this be what you're looking for? http://www.popularwoodworking.com/workbenches/schwarz-workbenches/the-milkmans-workbench-in-use
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Aug 9, 2013 03:07
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Running end grain through a power planer is risky business. Some people have never had a problem, some people have their work explode. The plane will work, but it better be super sharp, and you will probably need to resharpen at least once The orbit sander is not great for making a flat surface, but it will smooth out the ridges, and that might be "close enough"
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Aug 13, 2013 18:31
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If it's not planing evenly, and you can't adjust it, I would return it. In general electric planers are really only good for things that don't need parallel passes (doors), but some people swear by them. I love hand planes and can't seem to stop buying them, but also respect that they're not for everybody.
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Aug 13, 2013 20:56
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Working on a Dutch style tool chest, here's the dry fit of the carcase The bottom is dovetailed on, the middle shelf is a sliding dovetail  You can see where I cut it on the wrong side and had to shim it. I really need to work more slowly. First time cutting sliding dovetails, the male side is much harder, but it turned out well. It's a lot tighter than it looks (tee'd up for you).
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Aug 16, 2013 15:56
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What kind of work are you going to do on it? What tools are you going to use with it?
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Aug 16, 2013 22:02
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woodmizer has a listing of people who will bring one of their portable mills to you.
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Aug 20, 2013 13:51
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wormil posted:Good to know, I was afraid it had to be dead flat. Even though the blade isn't quite as sharp (yet) as my British Stanley, the Siegley still cuts better, kinda hard to explain. I bet once I get the nicks out and razor sharp it'll be a nice user. My take on plane flatness has been if a jack plane looks flat from across the room it's good. Jointer should be flat around the mouth and the long edges should be in parallel. Smoothing plane should be perfectly flat. That is a large looking blade, but I doubt the steel is any good TBH. Why not grab a Hock blade and build the body?
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Aug 28, 2013 15:27
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 21:47 |
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You could always hand carve it. Not as hard as it looks. http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/2600/2603.html Cmdr. Chompernuts fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Aug 29, 2013 |
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Aug 29, 2013 13:54
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