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iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

ChaoticSeven posted:



What am I missing here? Does it balance no matter how much is in it?

Seriously, this picture makes me feel retarded.

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iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
Yeah man, go with some clear poly for your last coat, and avoid the polyshades from here on out, they kinda punish you for sanding and wanting to make it look good.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

frumpus posted:

Am I still ok using a brush? I'm noticing more and more brush marks in the polyshades the more I look at it. Wondering if some sort of pad might work better.

I use foam brushes, they seem to work well enough.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
I don't think I've ever posted any of my projects. Here's a few recent ones.


A foam-filled case for a buddy's recording equipment.


A porch swing for my parents' new house. I've got some finishing to do.



A box for my airguns. They came in a crappy bag and I needed a project for them. Nail guns change the game.

I've built a ton of birch hand drums, but somehow don't have any pictures of them, I'll get those up eventually.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

Bantaras posted:

Very nice cases!
I like the porch swing too


A contoured seat is always a plus! Is it an original design?

Yeah, I kinda made it up as I went along. I think it'll be able to support a few tons, I may have oversupported it.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

Bantaras posted:

What do we have to do to get the plans and some assembly instructions? Do you think you can put something together for us and post them here?

I'll get something together I guess, if nothing more than a bunch of photos and numbers. I need to figure out the chain connections and paint the thing first.

Here's some birch and oak plywood hand drums. I think I finally have nice enough tools to start making these to sell, but I can make instructions on them, too, if anybody wants them.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

Bad Munki posted:

I'm looking for a 2-button rocker-esque switch to replace the switch/update the wiring on an old table saw (it currently has a toggle in an inconvenient location, both aspects of which I do not approve.) Preferably something with two large buttons, the ON button being protected or recessed, and the OFF button protruding so I can put a bar across it. Any idea where I can get such a thing?

I looked on Mcmaster Carr and Grainger Danger, found this on GIS http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&Max=999

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
Radical.

Does anyone have an opinion on benchtop jointer/planers? I played with the portercable at lowes and I'm looking at http://grizzly.com/products/6-x-24-Bench-Top-Jointer/G0612 as well, but I'm wondering if I can use it on boards that are longer than the table, and if I need one to begin with.

Similar tools I own:
Circular saw
10" bandsaw incapable of cutting straight lines
Router + table
Benchtop belt sander
12" miter saw

Does anyone use a jointer/planer? Do you wish you had a larger one? Should I forget it and save for a table saw?

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
Thanks for saving me $300 dudes. I'm currently building a bed out of red oak from Lowe's. I can't wait to live in a city with a lumber yard and have a garage that can contain a planar and jointer.

My kreg kit comes in tomorrow. Can't wait.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
Dudes, I need your help.

As previously discussed, I am without a planer or jointer. I have gotten pretty crafty with my router, but can't figure this one out. I am at step 3, and I'm not sure about the best way to get to step 4. I'm working with an 8 foot long piece of Red Oak.

Is this a bandsaw job? I have a really lovely router table, excellent router, a benchtop sander, and a Harbor Freight hand plane. What's the easiest way?

Only registered members can see post attachments!

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

Barn Owl posted:

Do you have a re-saw blade on the bandsaw? You want to minimize the drift of the blade. I'd say cut it a little large on the bandsaw and then hand plane it down.

Yeah, I have a 1/2" 6 hook tooth and a 3 hook tooth. I feared it was time to learn how to hand plane. Thanks for the push.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
Just wanted to thank Barn Owl and Chaotic for the bandsaw tips. Everything on my re-sawing worked out great after aligning my wheels and buying a feather board.

In other news, go out and buy yourself a $7 trimming plane from Lowe's. It is the best bang for the dollar I've gotten in a long time.


Click here for the full 600x800 image.

iwannabebobdylan fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Feb 18, 2010

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

WildFoxMedia posted:

Lasers on power tools - Useful or gimmicky?

I think im going to drop some money and pick up a miter saw - I realize that in most cases the version with a laser is not much more expensive, but do you guys find them useful? Are they accurate to the degree you expect, or simply there to get you in the ballpark?

I've got one on my circular saw and my miter. The one on the circular saw lets you "aim high" and keep it on the line. My miter laser is spot on. Keeps me from having to bring the saw down and line it up every time. It's really good on double-angled cuts.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

MarshallX posted:

Thing is, I'm building this because new cabinets are 100$+. New wood would put me over 100$ and I'd never hear the end of it.

How do you feel about wood filler on the outside corners? We're talking a 1/16th gap here, and its on the outside, so really will never be seen once the board is mounted.

Dude, just go for the wood filler and mark it up to experience. I think as a team we should just decide to never do miters again. Rabbets! Half laps! Box joints!

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
Ok, a few things.

1. Do not start a large project using only red oak boards from Lowe's. Once you cross the $1000 mark, you will want to kill yourself.

2. I don't think I'm doing the hand plane thing right. I have a tiny Stanley trim plane that is a million times more effective than either of my 8" planes. I'm content to think that planing will have to be something I master later in life.

3. Here's a birch ply coffee table I designed and built a few years ago. It isn't built to last, but it served its purpose and I love the look of it.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

wormil posted:

Wow, it looks ginormous for a coffee table, or is it just a trick of perspective?

48 long, 18 wide, 19 tall. DON'T PUT YOUR FEET ON THE CANTILEVER END!

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
That's like, 75% of the fun of woodworking to me, trying to figure how to build what I want using the tools that I have. Don't do it to save money on things you would buy. That rarely happens.

Here's the desk I built when I was in college, since you asked:

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iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
For the love of God, sign up for the Grizzly catalog. It's like 800 pages of tool porn.

I have their desktop belt sander and it does what it's supposed to. I think that's the brand I'm going with when I get a table saw and a lathe, too. I'm about as ambivalent as Skunkduster on the subject, I guess.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

GEMorris posted:

My business making engraved wedding invitations

I'm getting married in two weeks, where were you 6 months ago? This is the best thing I've ever seen.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
All you damned blade-huggers need to cool it. You're the exact opposite of a tree-hugger, but equally fanatical.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
Alright, I need some help.

I put two coats of Minwax stain and a coat of poly on my red oak bed. I ended up with runs and spots all over my stain job, so I'm stripping it right now.

I know we hate Minwax, but I think that there will still be some stain on it after I'm done sanding. The wife wants the stain superdark, and I had a hard time getting the Minwax to go that dark.

Is there some type of magical stain that I should be using? Is there a way to keep minwax from getting gummy and as it's drying?

edit: just read that I should be using 100 grit instead of 200 to help the stain penetrate.

iwannabebobdylan fucked around with this message at 15:52 on May 19, 2010

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
Thanks for the tips.

I've never heard of pore filler. All I've used is conditioner, oil based stain, and poly.

I'm ok with masking the grain some, I figured that if we get dark enough it will all blend anyways.

I only have a Sherwin Williams, Lowes, and Walmart in this town. Do I need to order this dye, or will any of them have it?

And after I dye it, do I seal it with poly?

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

SkunkDuster posted:

Stain and poly :ughh:

edit: I know that wasn't a very useful or helpful reply. Listen to Wormil, he knows his stuff.

I spent about 4 hours stripping the footboard and posts. Still have the siderails and headboard. I now hate stain and poly.

Thanks for the link, wormil. I need to replace my collection of Minwax tints and start woodworking like a man.

In other news, I knocked out a Nelson Bench in a day. Got about halfway through the box joints on the second endpiece with the chop saw and remembered I owned a bandsaw. Oh well.


Click here for the full 600x800 image.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

wormil posted:

I doubt you can get it from Lowes or Home Depot but maybe, never been to Sherwin Williams but I do know that most paint stores carry a lot more chemicals than just paint. You can order it from various woodworking websites if not available locally. I think mine are 2 oz bottles but that is probably equivalent to 2 quarts of stain. If you get it on your clothes it will never come out. The dye is just that and will not seal the wood so you'll probably want a finish over the top. For a bed, you probably don't need anything as durable and unforgiving as poly... I would use lacquer or shellac. Lowes does sell brushable lacquer.

Pore filler will make the surface of the oak very smooth and if you use a different color than your stain it can really make the grain stand out. Pore filler can be purchased at Lowes/HD. You can also mix dye into it to change the color.

Finally got around to doing this yesterday. The spray was super easy, and it had no problem getting dark. I did the first seal coat with a sanding sealer lacquer and it was dry in 30 minutes. This way kicks rear end, thanks for the tips.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

Absolut_V posted:

I have been meaning to ask since I saw this. It looks perfect. Where did you get the plans from?

Thanks! I just threw it together from the photos I could find online. The top boards are 2 3/4 and I think the real ones are 2 flat. Pine top, oak bottom, used spray-poly because it's impossible to get in the ribs after you put it together.

It's rough, but the wife was threatening to buy a coffee table from walmart, so I had to get it don quickly.

Edit:

Click here for the full 1296x968 image.



Click here for the full 1296x968 image.



Click here for the full 1296x968 image.



Click here for the full 1296x968 image.



Click here for the full 1296x968 image.




I need a buy/don't-buy on this lathe, lathe dudes.
http://shreveport.craigslist.org/tls/1956251372.html

iwannabebobdylan fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Sep 16, 2010

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

Absolut_V posted:

The bench looks spot on. Thanks for posting the pictures. I would like to know how you did the legs in particular.



Easiest way possible. I sat on it this morning to put my shoes on and it rocked a bit. If I had built it to sit on I would've boxed the joints, but as it is, I just used glue and nails. Holds a vase and a drink like a champ.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
It's been a while! I bought a house with a 2 car garage and now I don't have to build poo poo in my duplex living room!

Finally finished stripping the poly and stain off of my bed, then sprayed it with dye and hit it with 2 coats of varnish. It isn't perfect, but it's finished, and after a year of working on the damned thing, I'm fine with it.


Click here for the full 968x1296 image.



Click here for the full 968x1296 image.


Not sure why my iphone photos look like rear end.

The biggest problem with the house aside from not having a garage door was the living room. Apparently the previous owners didn't watch television. This is before and after. About 3 weeks from start to finish, still have to add the base shoe and re-float a few spots and touch up the taupe paint. Not sure why they remodeled the house and left a tiled-in fireplace with no ventilation or gas tap.

Before.

After

We left the bump in the wall, and the bottom cabinet exactly covers the tiling that was around the mantle.

Oh hey bonus shot of my executive desk that I got from craigslist in trade for two cases of Corona. I've since added a slotted top so I can clamp to it.




Currently working on a mid-century desk. And a dresser to match the bed. Big thanks to you guys for the tips on the dye job and the bandsaw tune-up tips. I'm still building without a jointer, planer, large bandsaw, tracksaw, or table saw.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

Terrorist Kerchief posted:

How hard would something like this be and what might I need to make it?


http://www.pedlars.co.uk/page_3268.html

It seems incredibly expensive for something I would have to assemble myself anyway, but I don't know much about the cost of "High Pressure Laminate."

What type of wood would I need to use for thin sheets like that?

We did a project like this in architecture school. You get a 3d model of the solid and insert planes into it at a given spacing. Then you delete everything that's outside the solid, then pull out the planes and you have your pattern to cut. I don't see any other way to do this without some type of 3d modeling software and a decent model to start from.

You could use anything for the wood, but it looks like that might be masonite. I take that back, looks like it's 1/2", go with any ply or MDF.

I kind of love that. Our projects were baseball sized and on the laser cutter. That would be sweet with a jigsaw, you could make anything. Like a rocket/bookshelf.

iwannabebobdylan fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Oct 21, 2010

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

theitguys posted:

Thanks, not buying it. Is a bandsaw the first piece of equipment I should try to pick up? Do you guys have any recommendations on the basic tools one should have to get into woodworking?

10" Bandsaw and circular saw were my first two purchases. They covered a lot of ground.

Make sure that you buy a badass portable drill when you decide to get one. I have a Panasonic that is an absolute lifesaver. Nothing worse than a dead battery.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
I have a 17'x17' detached garage that had no door and was only studs and exterior siding. There were a few gaps in the walls and it was impossible to heat the space. I've put in a garage door and yesterday I put up 3/8" pine plywood with the exterior side painted with Killz 2. I had intended to paint the inside white, too, but the bare wood is looking pretty shoppy right now. I'm wondering if you guys have any recommendations for sealing it. I only really need it to last 5-7 years, I'm in Louisiana, and I didn't insulate the backside because money is tight and my studs are on 24" centers. Is this a job for polyurethane? Or Thompson's water seal? Or some stuff I've never heard of?

edit:
Photos!


Click here for the full 800x598 image.

This is where I was on Thursday.


Click here for the full 598x800 image.

These are the excellent holes in my walls.


Click here for the full 800x598 image.

This is where I am now. I have a shitton of shelving to do, but I know I should seal this thing up with something before I go any further.

iwannabebobdylan fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Dec 28, 2010

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

Cobalt60 posted:

If you have an extra few minutes anytime soon, I'd love even more detail. Or, is there an existing online tutorial for this?

Sorry to have to ask, but even with this added insight, I just can't wrap my head around some of the logistics.

It's mirrored down the middle. I was scratching my head for a while, too.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
How is everyone still feeling about their shopsmiths? I don't have a table saw or lathe, and I saw the first shopsmith on my craigslist in 6 months this morning. He's asking $1200 obo, I'm thinking more like $700.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

slartibartfast posted:


Would a decent circular saw, some kind of straight edge, and good clamps do the exact same thing for a third of the price? Or is there another option I'm not thinking of?

I think the best option is to go with http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/.

I've been thinking all day about how much I don't need a lathe, and I'm going to buy one of these jokers as soon as I can instead of that shopsmith.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
I've got the laser hand saw and the guide, and I cannot stand using the guide. I freehand everything and do OK, but I'll do much better when the saw can't push itself off of the track. Mind you, I've been using a circular saw for ripping plywood for about 5 years, but I know my limitations and I'm ready to graduate to the track saw.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
I use a trimming bit pretty often. I bought one of the big cheap sets from amazon, but I end up using my rabbet and slot-cutter that I bought single more than any in the set.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004
I think a sawsaw is a stolen sawzall.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

jvick posted:

Thanks, they're 1980 Klipsch LaScalla's I got from my bachelor uncle. They sound amazing.


Want to buy them?!

No. but we want you to take detailed pics and explain how we could build a pair. They're perfect.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

jvick posted:


Here are some additional pictures of my pair. Apparently they're from 1990, I thought they were from '80.


Thanks for this, they're the bees knees.

iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

Elston Gunn posted:

The December issue of Fine Woodworking has a pretty cool article featuring Nick Offerman (Ron Swanson) and a method that he uses for leveling large slabs. Here's a video tour of his shop. He makes some amazing tables.

I watched his youtube boat-building videos last night for the first time. He's fun to watch and really sounds like he knows what he's talking about.

http://www.offermanwoodshop.com/

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iwannabebobdylan
Jun 10, 2004

wormil posted:

Good tip, no Academy here but I'll check around the sporting goods stores. I'll also check out Lowes.

This one is well thought out and I'll probably just copy it. Maybe make it a tad lighter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fllqaJax88
http://slingshotforum.com/topic/8183-medieval-style-slingshot-crossbow/


Well dammit now I want to build one. I was skeptical until he actually fired it, then I was in love.

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