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PMan_ posted:Maybe it's just because it was my first few times using the bit, but setting-up stop blocks and coming up with way to orient the boards and what not was much more time consuming than I had expected. My take on that would be that if it were easier to cut biscuit slots on a router table, you'd never see Norm Abram using a plate joiner.
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Sep 2, 2008 19:35
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I went to a woodworking show yesterday in Dayton called Artistry in Wood. It was put on by the Dayton Carver's Guild, and there was a lot of neat stuff up there. A few of the exhibitors specialized in chip carving, and their projects were absolutely beautiful. I picked up a book on chip carving while I was there, but it absolutely sucked balls (it was more of an advertisement for the guy who wrote it, he makes his own knives). I found this kit (at the bottom) that looks like a good starting point, but I wanted to see if anyone on here was into carving and could maybe give me some other ideas on where to start.
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Nov 10, 2008 21:02
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Golden War posted:So I'm going to try inlaying some strips of walnut and birch into a piece of hickory for a project and I'd like to stain the hickory but not the birch so it has a nice contrast. Is there a good way to mask the inlaid wood so that it doesn't take any stain? I assume I could cover the exposed top part with tape or something but I'm concerned with stain soaking into the birch from the sides. What do I need to know here? There was an episode of The New Yankee Workshop where Norm built a set of nesting tables with some inlays (maple in mahogany if I remember correctly, along with a little medallion in the middle). He put a couple of coats of shellac on the medallion and maple first to seal them, then stained the rest of the surface the way he normally would with a water based stain. When he wiped the stain off, it came right off of the inlays since they were already sealed.
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Nov 17, 2008 20:36
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Bad Munki posted:Insofar as my previous question about router bits and poker chip gouges: I know they must make something like what I'm after, since I've seen such shapes bored out of single-piece mancala boards. How about this one? 1 3/4" core box bit, 1/2" shank, $27. Or, if you're a masochist, build yourself a core box plane to cut the grooves by hand. I saw one being used on that Woodwright's Shop show on PBS, they're pretty nifty. I can't seem to find many for sale though, and those that are for sale are ungodly expensive (like, $700+ kind of expensive). EDIT: If you're worried about the bit quality, there are a bunch of reviews on MLCS here. Looks like they're pretty drat good for the money. Boogeyman fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Jan 14, 2010 |
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Jan 14, 2010 20:18
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This is more of a wood cleaning/restoring question, but hopefully someone can give me some advice. I'm picking up a 40 year old bedroom set on Sunday, and I'd like to give it a good cleaning once I get it home before I go throwing clothes and whatnot in the pieces. The finish is in good condition other than some minor scratches here and there (which I think I can take care of with a wax stick or two). What's the best product to use to clean these pieces off (get rid of the old wax/dirt/grime/whatever), and what should I put on them to keep them protected? I've never had wood furniture before, so I'm clueless as to what works and what doesn't. Also, can I use the same cleaner on the inside of the drawers to get rid of the "old people" smell?
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Jan 20, 2010 19:55
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I picked up that furniture yesterday and cleaned the poo poo out of it with some Murphy's Orange Oil Cleaner (that was all that my Lowes seemed to have at the time). It did a nice job of shining everything up and getting rid of the really stuck on dirt. Unfortunately, I didn't look at the nightstands too closely before I bought them, and the finish on the top of them is starting to flake...guess that means I'll be refinishing them at some point. Next question...that cleaner I used says specifically that it shouldn't be used on unfinished wood. I noticed when I was cleaning out the drawers that the sides and backs are very, very dried out and the dovetails are starting to shrink a bit and loosen up. Is there something I can put on unfinished wood to keep it from drying out so much?
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Jan 25, 2010 19:00
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Bad Munki posted:Just got a good deal on a planer...it's a Dewalt DW735, has about four hours of use on it, and comes with the stand. It's certainly more planer than I'll ever need. Exciting! New tools are always fun. I was a bit concerned for a while that maybe something fishy was going on with the guy due to payment demands, but in the end it all worked out. They built an outfeed stand on the New Yankee Workshop that looked fairly easy to build. It had a roller top made out of PVC pipes, an adjustable height mechanism, and a rolling stand to get it in and out of the way. You can sort of see it sitting behind the table saw: http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0603 It wouldn't be hard to modify the design to make the top a bit longer for better support, and you could use it for more than just your planer since it's mobile.
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Feb 22, 2010 20:29
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Really, really stupid sharpening question. I picked up a set of three ceramic Spyderco sharpening stones and a Veritas honing guide to sharpen my chisels and plane blades and whatnot. The instructions that came with the stones say to clean them with an abrasive powder like Ajax and a green scouring pad. OK, easy enough. I managed to sharpen my first chisel and started on my second when I noticed that it wasn't sharpening as fast on the 600 grit stone. I cleaned all three stones, then started sharpening again. Got to the third chisel and again, the 600 grit stone wasn't cutting worth a poo poo. Cleaned it again, and I could still see residue all over it. I looked at the Ajax bottle and noticed that it's "non-scratch". Just my loving luck. I went back to the store and bought some no-name powder, but that's not working either (even though it doesn't say non-scratch on the label). Any ideas as to what I can buy to clean these stupid stones that will actually work? EDIT: Actually, I have some Mr. Clean magic erasers...would one of those do the trick without screwing up the stone? Boogeyman fucked around with this message at 00:49 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 00:31
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GEMorris posted:I just rinse my sharpening stones under running water, and flatten them on each other (just rub two together and you'll end up with a flat surface on both. Yeah, these are ceramic. The instructions say that the 600 grit stone will eventually wear with heavy use, but the 1800 and 2000 grit stones should last indefinitely. I know for sure that I'm not supposed to be rubbing them together. I guess a better way to describe it is "clogged", like the metal particles got down into the stone and can't be scrubbed off with those pansy rear end "no scratch" powders I managed to buy. I need something that's more abrasive, but not abrasive enough to wear away at the stone. EDIT: Actually, if anyone was wondering, they do a fantastic job. The chisels I've been sharpening are a cheap set of three that I got from Lowe's for like $15. They weren't worth a poo poo when I first used them, but after using the Veritas guide and the stones to sharpen them (and add a microbevel), they cut wood like butter. I'm sure that using the guide makes me a big pussy, but I wanted to make sure I was doing it right. Boogeyman fucked around with this message at 18:39 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 18:35
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The Scientist posted:Check out what this guy can do with a bandsaw: That makes me sick to my stomach watching it.  "Roll your drat sleeves up! And if your fingers are going to be that close to the blade, slow the gently caress down!"
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Jan 4, 2011 19:05
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The Scientist posted:And not only will they plane down wood for me, but they even do laser etching. Some of the stuff they had as examples of their etchings... oh man. Went up to the coke machine, and all the different flavors of coke had its logo etched into a piece of wood that was the buttons on the coke machine. Yeah, those buttholes at Woodcraft up here in Cincinnati just started doing laser engraving as well. They bought the exact same machine that I had bought for myself a few months earlier. Quit stealing my business ideas, Woodcraft! 
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Apr 1, 2011 00:47
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I started a project over the weekend, I'm making a sign for my regular bar. I have the design made up already, that will be laser engraved into the sign. The sign itself will be approximately 31 1/2" wide and 22" tall when it's finished and will be oval shaped. Problem is, I'm a giant retard and decided to use red oak (to sort of match their bar trim), which seems to be the hardest loving material known to man. I had to joint two 1" by 12" pieces together to get the size I needed, and I can't seem to smooth the face down without my stupid palm sander leaving little squiggly marks all over the place. (I also attempted to use a belt sander, that was an absolute disaster, which is why I'm still having problems getting rid of the marks.) Would a random orbital sander do a better job of sanding the face down without leaving marks all over? I would just flip it over and use the other side as the face, but the joint looks like poo poo on that side, so it needs to be the back. EDIT: If a random orbit sander would do a better job, I'm looking at this DeWalt sander. It would be replacing an ancient Craftsman palm sander that's been in my dad's shop probably longer than I've been alive. Any opinions on this one? Boogeyman fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Apr 4, 2011 |
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Apr 4, 2011 15:44
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I started with 120 on the palm sander, that wasn't doing poo poo. Went down to 80, that still didn't do poo poo. Then I switched to the belt sander with an 80 grit belt and it left track marks all over the place (partially my fault, partially the sander's fault since it's also a piece of poo poo). I switched back to the palm sander and tried dropping all the way down to 40 grit, which still barely removes any material. I wasn't pushing hard on the palm sander, just enough to keep it from wandering around. I've used it before on softer woods and it does an OK job, it just can't do poo poo with this oak.
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Apr 4, 2011 16:45
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The Scientist posted:Its funny, I've posted this exact sentence in this exact thread as well. Good to know I'm not the only one having problems with it! They were red oak boards from Home Depot, so they were fairly smooth to start with. I did need to remove a bit of material to even out the face since the edges didn't glue up perfectly. I wish I had a drum sander or a planer, but I don't (any more, dad got rid of those forever ago when he moved to his new house). He does have an assortment of hand planes, but at this point I'll probably end up doing more harm than good. I went ahead and ordered that random orbit sander, I'll see if that does a better job. I have a feeling that palm sander is just worn the gently caress out, it has to be at least 30 years old.
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Apr 5, 2011 18:54
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I finally finished the sign that I've been working on for my regular bar last night. It's red oak, about 31 1/2" wide by 22" tall. That DeWalt random orbit sander I bought did a nice job of smoothing out the glued up planks, it was much easier than trying to use that old piece of poo poo palm sander I had. After sanding, I laser cut a template out of 1/4" plywood and used a router to cut out the oval, then rounded over the edges. The text and images took about two hours for the laser to engrave. After engraving, I cleaned all of the sap and soot off of the face with some Murphy's oil soap, then spent another hour or so hand sanding it with 220 grit to deal with the grain that had raised up. It took about eight coats of semi-gloss poly to seal it, it sucked up the first three or four coats within minutes. It probably needed another couple coats, but I was running out of patience and it felt smooth enough to me. It'll be hanging on the wall, not like anyone's going to be touching it anyways. Lesson learned: red oak loving blows and I'm never using it ever again. If I had made this out of maple, I would have been finished weeks ago.
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May 3, 2011 17:34
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hayden. posted:What's the name of this type of hinge, where it's like a curved metal rail that goes inside the wood when a lid is closed? A "non-mortise invisible hinge", according to Woodcraft. Not sure if there's a better name for it. http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2001076/NonMortise-Invisible-Hinges.aspx
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Sep 9, 2011 15:52
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I've been making laser engraved pool table markers lately, they're a substitute for putting quarters on the table since everyone seems to forget who's who once there's too many up. I had someone ask for two maple ones last night, and they want one of them to be pink. Paint is out of the question, so I'm looking for a pink dye or stain. I'll also be putting a coat of laquer over the top, if that makes a difference. Anyone know of a product that will stain maple pink?
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May 3, 2012 20:48
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iwannabebobdylan posted:You want an Aniline Dye, I believe. Woodcraft has them, Lowe's and HD and Sherwin Williams won't. It's fun stuff to work with, I did my bed and dresser and desk with it and finished with 5 billion coats of lacquer. Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for. I looked up the directions for application, I think it's going to be way too much work for what I'm charging for the markers. It's looking like I'm going to have to tell her to choose something else, or just give her the unfinished marker and let her dye it herself.
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May 3, 2012 21:31
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I don't doubt that it's easy to apply, it's more of a problem of being too much work for one little piece. These markers are about the size of a half dollar, and I usually run 10 or 20 at a time and finish them all at once (just a few coats of rattle can lacquer after sanding the residue off from the laser). The markers are going for $10 each, or two for $15. If I had a bunch of people that wanted pink markers, it wouldn't be an issue. To do her single pink marker, I'd have to drop $10 or $15 on a bottle of dye, spend a day or two dyeing it and waiting for it to dry, then finish it up with lacquer afterwards. For the money, it's just not worth it. If I was doing a whole pile of them, then yeah, no problem, although I'd probably bump the price up a bit due to the extra work involved. EDIT: Maybe I'll just buy some pink ivory wood and use that instead of trying to dye maple. Pretty much the same cost as a bottle of dye, and it'll be classier. Boogeyman fucked around with this message at 23:38 on May 8, 2012 |
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May 8, 2012 23:32
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Another gift idea I'm actually thinking about making: rechargable battery holder. Just a block of wood with holes drilled to store batteries. I can't think of a clever way to indicate which are charged yet but it would at least be better than having them roll around on the desk getting mixed up. Stick them in with the positive end up for charged, negative up for needs to be charged?
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Dec 10, 2012 18:29
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The Dave posted:Any advice on stripping wood? We're taking all the paint off of our mantles and this is our first stab at doing something like this, so we've been brushing on Klean-Strip KS3, letting it bubble, and scrapping it with plastic scrapers. I've had good luck with Citristrip, used it a few times in my house for getting paint off of door jambs. I think the trick is to let it sit longer than you think you should. Here's what I did: 1. Brush it on thick with a lovely paintbrush that you'll never use for anything else. No foam brushes, they will melt. 2. Once everything is coated, cover it with cling wrap. 3. Let it sit for at least 12 hours. I let mine go for 24. 4. After it's done marinating, start scraping. I had a couple of jambs that had at least four or five layers of paint and it easily peeled off all the way down to the bare wood after sitting overnight. Little bit of sanding afterwards and I was ready for primer. And don't let the "safer" bullshit on the label fool you, the fumes will still burn your nose and eyes while it's working, so crack a window if possible.
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Feb 18, 2013 17:23
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The Dave posted:I haven't because it makes me a little nervous like I might burn the wood because I'm an idiot, and I don't have one. It doesn't have to be completely airtight, just enough to keep most of the moisture in to let it work longer. So long as you smooshed the cling wrap up against the stripper, you'll be fine. EDIT: After re-reading that last sentence, it sounds like one of Charlie Sheen's nights out on the town. Boogeyman fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Feb 19, 2013 |
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Feb 19, 2013 16:48
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