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ChaoticSeven posted:I need to learn how to sharpen chisels, too. Watch this for a primer. 
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Nov 10, 2008 04:26
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ChaoticSeven posted:Zero clearance insert for the new saw. Also, I have to remake all my jigs because the miter slots are slightly different on this one. I started with the cross cut sled. This looks cool, but aren't you concerned that the wood shrinks / swell over time and make it not flush to the table?
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Nov 13, 2008 19:29
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ChaoticSeven posted:Not too much, both sides are exposed to open air and its pretty low in moisture content, so it shouldn't do too much crazy twisting or warping. If it does swell slightly in thickness my workpiece would bump into it before even reaching the blade. I put the leveling screws in and made it thinner than it needed to be in case that happens. I'm so trying this then. Not only does my cheapish table saw doesn't have zero clearance inserts, but the stock insert have an awfully large.. like they all do, I guess.
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Nov 13, 2008 20:16
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QuarkMartial posted:2) Dovetails: Is there an easy way to cut these by hand? It's pretty straight forward, I've done it a few time and I have no particular talent. Here's an example, you will see the tools needed: http://woodtreks.com/how-to-hand-cut-precision-dovetails-%E2%80%94-part-one-the-pins/75/ http://woodtreks.com/how-to-hand-cut-precision-dovetails-the-tails-part-2-of-2/77/ The technique vary from people to people but that should get you going.
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Jan 5, 2009 21:03
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Man you did an awesome job, I'm very impressed and totally didn't expect that result.ChaoticSeven posted:Drive screws. They don't actually screw back out, and don't have a slot to use a screwdriver on if they did. Trying to file a slot doesn't work, they just split apart at the head. Filing the head off is almost impossible without nicking the tags up. Couldn't you have drilled it out?
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Mar 18, 2010 22:51
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I'm using a laminate counter top to make a desk. I'm covering a 9' 1/2 span room, the desk is connected to the wall (e.g. supported) on 3 sides except the front. The 'counter top' is 30" deep. I don't want legs if I can help it so I would like to support it through any other mean possible. Anyone did something similar? How would you do it? Edit: I'm thinking of laminating the thinest plywood possible (since it don't come in 10'+ length) to make it long enough and using that as support. I could add angled pieces of plywood that connects to the wall, perhaps? Something sturdy would be nice.
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Oct 21, 2010 20:12
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I don't know what thickness of bar I would need for it to be sturdy enough throughout the 9 feet ish span but it might be too expensive for me. What about gluing a T steel bar in a notch routed underneath the front of the counter top?
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Oct 21, 2010 21:15
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wormil posted:I did this in an office and used big-rear end L brackets I found at a hardware store. They are a lot stronger than they look but get the big ones. The one pictured below is about 12x13 inches. The important thing is to anchor it solidly to the wall. Thanks! I figured someone in here would have experience doing something similar, so you didn't put any thing underneath the counter top (no plywood or anything)? You drilled that bracket right into it?
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Oct 26, 2010 17:54
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I'd say it's about the look more than anything, and I can't find table legs in a price range and look that I like.
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Nov 1, 2010 02:33
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How are you going to fill that gap in the back, where the slot continues? I'd make an overlap joint with the wood from the horizontal piece sticking out. That joint wont be the most bothersome, it's those two angled tenons that I'd be concerned about.
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Feb 24, 2011 03:06
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hayden. posted:or is wood not rigid enough to be as accurate as needed? Matthias Wandel think its plenty rigid and accurate enough to build a complete bandsaw out of it [wood]. I don't think a fence would be problematic. I'll be making one for my cheap table saw and see how it turns out. Can't be worse than the POS that came with it. My biggest problem with my table saw is that the blade does not track perfectly straight. I've been using it delicately. It gauges and burn the work pieces very bad because of that. It's really only designed for rough sawing.
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Aug 31, 2011 16:22
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Bad Munki posted:Straight relative to the slides, or straight relative to the fence? I'm talking about wobbles, I suspect that the bearings are not perfect, or that the shaft going through the motor has a slight kink. It was a cheap saw after all.
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Aug 31, 2011 18:39
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