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iwannabebobdylan posted:I put two coats of Minwax stain and a coat of poly on my red oak bed. Stain and poly  edit: I know that wasn't a very useful or helpful reply. Listen to Wormil, he knows his stuff. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 20:03 on May 19, 2010 |
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May 19, 2010 20:00
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ChaoticSeven posted:There are some dangerous and/or lovely ones out there. There is such a thing as a non-dangerous RAS? I figured they were called Radical Harm Saws for a reason. Radio Alarm Saw  WildFoxMedia posted:So would the Milwaukee work then? It includes both plunge and fixed bases. Not saying the Milwaukee won't work, but Porter Cable also makes a fixed/plunge kit for the 690 series of routers. The thing I like about 690 series is that it is the standard when it comes to routers, so almost every accessory you can think of will fit without using any adapters. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Jun 28, 2010 |
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Jun 28, 2010 04:54
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LordOfThePants posted:Menards was a "warehouse store" Did they expand on this at all? As far as a business model goes, how is Menards any different than HD?
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Jul 24, 2010 23:57
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You might try checking around for cedar fence posts, then squaring them up.
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Aug 6, 2010 08:11
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GEMorris posted:I think the top of the desk that you linked to looks like poo poo and wont age well at all. Thanks, I didn't want to be the first one to say it. Judging from that picture where the board is sitting outside on the chair, it looks like HD planes their boards down with a chainsaw. I was thinking, "If that board was mine, what could I do with it?" and the best idea I could come up with was to make a shelf in the basement to store paint cans and lawn chemicals. Baruch Obamawitz posted:So $240 and some But that's just my opinion. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Aug 12, 2010 |
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Aug 12, 2010 05:17
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schmen posted:
Not sure what happened in that last picture, but for cutting plywood, you would probably have a lot better luck using an 80 tooth plywood blade or even a combination blade.
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Aug 14, 2010 10:13
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Can anybody identify what this thing is? My best guess is something for mortising. Seems like the thing on the left (which is upside down) would attach to a drill press, but I'll be damned if I have any idea what the thing on the right is or if it is even assembled correctly at the moment.
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Aug 22, 2010 10:30
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GEMorris posted:Your friend it right, it looks like a Delta mortising attachment for a drill press. Sure enough, thanks! Too bad there seems to be a few key parts missing. It was free stuff that came from when a friend was cleaning his garage out, so no loss. I'll just stick with cutting mortises the manly way with a hammer and a chisel.
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Aug 23, 2010 04:56
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wormil posted:That's good because that's probably the way I'm going to do it. My brain keeps saying "UNBALANCED!" but my wife is fine with it also. I think it looks fine, too, for what it's worth. Even if it does look a little wonky, you're going to have a dining room table with chairs hiding it so nobody on the planet is going to notice your proportions. Then that inner voice chimes in and says "Yes, but I'll notice". schmen posted:Also had a small question myself, anyone here had any experience with Tung Oil? Made a few small cutting boards at home, and while im more than happy to leave them clear, wouldn't mind trying one with it. Just not too sure how it'll come out. I've used tung oil in the past, but am completely drawing a blank on what I used it on, so I can't say how it turned out. However, I do clearly remember the smell of the stuff - I didn't like it one bit. Not that the smell will matter once it has cured, but just the stink of applying it was enough to turn me off to using it. Now that I think about it, I might be getting tung oil confused with boiled linseed oil. One of them stinks. If you are planning on giving these cutting boards away as gifts, I think mineral oil is the way to go. In the future, the gift recipient can buy it right in a grocery store and it is a simple matter of wipe on wipe off. If I ever get a tablesaw that isn't the worst pile of poo poo on the planet with a spinning blade, I plan to make some end grain cutting boards. If and when I give these to my neighbors and friends, I plan to include some instructions on care and cleaning. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Sep 9, 2010 |
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Sep 9, 2010 16:47
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I found the site of a wood carver named Randall Rosenthal today. I could practice carving for a lifetime and still not be worthy of sweeping the shavings off of his shop floor. http://www.randallrosenthal.com/Pages/New%20Pages/cutting_board_page.htm
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Sep 12, 2010 12:38
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Cobalt60 posted:This is because when dry, the cellulose contracts to be very small, but also the intercellular bonds become more rigid (glasslike). Once this happens, if the cells grow rapidly due to a tremendous humidity increase, that bond will be compromised with unpredictable results. Slow down there, Mr. Wizard. We just make sawdust round these parts.
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Sep 29, 2010 08:45
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Messadiah posted:To cut the slot on those, I assume you just mount it and bring the saw up from underneath, is that correct? To hold the insert down when you cut the slot, you can use the fence one one side, then a long board with clamps at the front and back of the table to hold down the other side. That's a hell of a lot safer than using your fingers. Just need to know exactly where that blade is going to poke through so you don't bring it up into your fence. The Scientist posted:Is it possible to use a scroll saw on metal? (Figure you guys would know a lot about scroll saws, although not necessarily as much about cutting metal) Keep in mind that there are different blades for metal and wood. Metal cutting blades have a more teeth per inch for a less aggressive cut.
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Jan 2, 2011 10:51
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MarshallX posted:I'm not even getting to the point where I blowout. I'm definitely not climb cutting, here is a diagram of what my cut is(as I'm at work): Would it be possible to do the top cut before cutting the arc away on the lower right? That would leave a lot more stock to strengthen the grain during the top cut, then when you cut the arc on the right, the bit would be pushing back towards the center of the piece. Another option (although somewhat tedious) would be to use a top bearing bit for half of the cut, then flip the piece over and install a bottom bearing bit for the other half of the cut.
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Jan 12, 2011 06:33
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Cobalt60 posted:One more question. I was looking for router accuracy upgrades, especially for running thin, precise, smooth, and flat-bottomed channels in "very" hard woods like cocobolo. I think my PC 690 has some deflection/runout that causes just a tiny bit of imperfection. For stuff like a guitar bridge, imperfection isn't an option. The slight imperfections are likely caused by the bit not being perfectly centered in a round base. If you are rotating the base while running it along a fence or guide, the bit will move closer and farther from the fence/guide. Easiest way to fix that problem is to make a base with a flat edge on it. If you put the flat edge against your guide/fence, the router will not pivot, and your bit will stay a constant distance from the fence.
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Feb 3, 2011 09:00
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truncated aardvar posted:For the angled support you could start with a wider board and cut off some scrap to form a single board with two flat pieces sticking out the ends at 45 degrees, from which you can form the tenons. I think a mitered tenon (I believe that is the name for it) would be a more traditional type of 45 degree joint to use in a situation like this. However, I'm not sure what the best way to cut the mortises would be. Edit: This guy calls it a Mitered Halved Corner Joint. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Feb 24, 2011 |
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Feb 24, 2011 19:53
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Another good adhesive for face gluing flat sheets is 3M Hi-Strength 90 spray adhesive. It is pretty expensive at around $20 for a 24oz can, but it makes a bond that even Optimus Prime can't tear apart.
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Apr 16, 2011 09:51
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hayden. posted:What's the name of this type of hinge, where it's like a curved metal rail that goes inside the wood when a lid is closed? A barrel hinge.
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Sep 9, 2011 16:37
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Oops, sorry about that. I zoned out after, "what is the name of this type of hinge" and missed the part about the curved rail.
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Sep 10, 2011 02:29
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funkatron3000 posted:a DIY thin strip jig. That cutting board looks amazing! When I get a table saw, that will be one of my first projects. Maybe I'm being a little dense since I just woke up, but isn't that thin strip jig functionally identical to a feather board?
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Sep 13, 2011 03:47
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Bad Munki posted:The bonus is that if your landfill actually charges your little truck by weight, you can reduce the cost of dumping by picking up a couple logs. What do they say to you when your truck weighs more on the way out than it did on the way in?
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Oct 26, 2011 08:58
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mds2 posted:Porter Cable makes really good routers. If I were to buy a new one that is what I would get. I'll agree with this. I had a couple cheap Craftsman/Ryobi type routers years ago and I decided to make the plunge and upgrade to something that wasn't a piece of poo poo. From the reviews and advice I got, Porter Cable seemed to be the way to go. I ended up getting the 7518 for the table and the 693LRPK for handheld. I've had no complaints about either of them over 10 years of occasional hobby use. Not only is the quality good, but Porter-Cable is the standard which most router accessories are designed for. http://www.woodcraft.com/Category/1002278/Router-Accessories.aspx Router Accessories posted:"Fits all routers with Porter-Cable style sub-bases." I'd recommend something from the 690 series for handheld use. Depending on what you are looking to do, one of these would work just fine. All of these use the 1 3/4 HP 6902 motor. The main differences are the base type (fixed/plunge) and if the motor is variable or fixed speed. 690LR $130 Fixed base, fixed speed 27,500 rpm. 690LRVS $163 Fixed base, variable speed 10,000-27,500 rpm. 693LRPK $180 Fixed speed motor 27,500 rpm. Comes with two bases - a fixed and a plunge base that you swap the motor between. 694VK $220 Same as above, but with variable speed motor 10,000 - 27,500 rpm.
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Jan 26, 2012 06:47
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Bad Munki posted:Any thoughts on how to process a couple of these logs into boards? My invitation from months ago is still open. Toss them in the truck and drive up to Minnesota and we can hack them up on my bandsaw. I don't have a rip blade though, so you might want to bring one or else it is going to be slow going. edit: 103" blade Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jan 26, 2012 |
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Jan 26, 2012 18:46
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Bad Munki posted:What kind of tool is he using at the 1-minute mark? It looks like it's just devouring the inside of that thing, and I want one. That's a chainsaw. A Makita 5012B, I believe. When it comes to removing a lot of wood in a hurry, you can't do much better than a chainsaw. I can't say I'm a fan of that lampshade. The concept is cool, but the resulting grain looks like rotary cut construction grade plywood, which makes sense, because that's exactly what it is.
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Feb 9, 2012 18:11
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Bad Munki posted:No, not the chainsaw, I know what a chainsaw is Sorry, I was just messing with you. I don't know jack about turning and have no idea what tool he was using but the last few pages of lathe talk and the pictures of the stuff you guys are making is really tempting me to buy one. You guys are really making some nice stuff!
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Feb 9, 2012 18:53
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Guitarchitect posted:Just out of curiosity, why does everyone use hardwood instead of low-friction plastic? Wouldn't the latter be a much safer bet? Or is it too difficult to get it to fit snugly? I think that the right plastics would be superior in making jigs, but the reason you don't see it much is cost and convenience. Convenience because woodworkers have all sorts of scraps around the shop. Most people don't have piles of low friction plastic scraps just sitting around. Cost: 3/4" x 4' x 8' C3 Birch Plywood: $45 LDPE: $297 HDPE: $289 UHMW Polyethylene: $571 PTFE (Teflon): $7000 or so if it even exists. That being said, UHMW is some pretty nice stuff. I bought a 1/2" Thick, 12" X 24" sheet for $34 from McMaster Carr and drilled a bunch of holes in it to use it as a router bit holder and it works great. It almost feels kind of greasy to the touch, but is completely dry. Slick stuff! Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Feb 25, 2012 |
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Feb 25, 2012 21:51
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wormil posted:Unless you love rotary cut birch for a cheap 70's look, I would paint it; or you could apply a veneer. Harsh, but true. I've been thinking of trying some basic veneering on flat surfaces and am wondering if jumping right in with unbacked veneer from ebay would be over my head. Stuff like waterfall bubinga, lacewood, and figured sapele look absolutely gorgeous, but I don't want to order it only to find out I need to build a steam press to flatten it out to a usable state.
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Mar 12, 2012 06:34
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Hughmoris posted:I haven't been able to read all 101 pages of this thread but is there a Woodworking 101 for beginners? Something that includes some beginner equipment, how to go about getting wood to work with if you live in a city etc.. I don't know of any sort of beginners guide because woodworking is such a broad topic. You could have one guy who makes fancy vases and bowls on a lathe and another guy who makes decorative jewelry boxes and it is possible that they would have zero tools in common. Another scenario would be two guys making the same thing, such as a dining room chair. We'll call these guys "Norm" and "Roy". Norm would use with a planer, jointer, table saw, router, orbital sander, belt sander, disk sander, drum sander, some stain and poly, and a few brads to hold it together until the glue dries. Roy, on the other hand, would use an axe. Without knowing the basics like what type of stuff you are looking to build and what your shop situation is (two car garage in the country or an apartment closet with bitchy neighbors), it is impossible to give feasible suggestions on what tools/techniques you might need. If you aren't sure what you want to do, you could get your feet wet by signing up for one of those classes where you make a nice rustic chair. Everybody loves rustic charm. 
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Mar 15, 2012 08:07
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This is a real handy tip I thought I'd share and hopefully hear some tips from others that have come in very handy. My sanding block is 2.75" wide, so I ripped a board to 2.75" wide and attached an old hacksaw blade to one side with the teeth protruding over the edge. (my hosting)  To use it, lay it sharp side down aligning the non-cutting edge with one edge of your sandpaper. Then just pull the sandpaper up against the blade to tear off a strip.  Dead simple to build and use and you get strips that are the perfect width every time without any measuring and no raggedy rear end edges from folding and tearing. 
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Mar 26, 2012 15:02
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e. I think I read it the user tips section of Wood magazine. Somebody else did think of it. It is not my original idea. I was just sharing because it is so handy.
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Mar 26, 2012 15:20
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Skinny Bins posted:I've always seen wooden toys as a bit of an "old man in the garage with too much time on his hands". That phrase really makes me grind me teeth because it is so dismissive and condescending. "You built an amazingly detailed scale model of a P-51 Mustang completely hand fabricated from aluminum?. You have too much time on your hands!" *goes back to watching The View* I think what you are doing is very cool and it looks like you have a pretty smooth system worked out. Shaved Wild posted:I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out, and the linseed oil gives quite a nice finish. The linseed oil makes it look very nice. I'm glad (and very surprised) you didn't follow the common path of "stain and poly" because I think that (pigment) stain looks like poo poo on any wood, but looks extremely bad on pine and cherry. I don't know how "Stain and Poly" became the defacto standard for wood finishing, but I don't like it one bit. There are much better ways to finish a project and you are right on the mark with your linseed oil finish. Skinny Bins posted:When I used a chisel to cut the inside part of the pins and tails of the dovetail, I ended up with a very rough, splintered edge...What can I do to stop this? Is it a case of blunt tools? Yes, it looks to me like your chisel has the sharpness of a butter knife. I use the Scary Sharp method with a Veritas Honing Guide for sharpening chisels and plane blades and have been satisfied with the results. For the baseplate, I picked up a 12"x12" (30x30cm) marble bathroom tile from a home improvment center for about $3 and that has worked just fine. There are a lot of different opinions on which is the best sharpening method. Whether you go with stones or sandpaper, you are going see a huge improvement over trying to cut dovetails with a grapefruit spoon.
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Apr 5, 2012 18:25
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Bad Munki posted:Guys, a (very cleanly cut) hole in the space time continuum seems to have opened over my kitchen sink, and non-euclidean mind-rending horrors are spewing forth. Too sharp? No, that's normal. Just use a brad nailer to patch the hole up until the glue dries. Keep slicing away until you open a rift that spews forth milkshakes and jelly doughnuts. When that happens, you'll know you have found the correct sharpening angle.
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Apr 7, 2012 12:05
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I've been meaning to pick up a junk jigsaw, scroll saw, or Sawzall to gut out and use the parts to make a mini paint mixer for 1oz jars of model paint. Seems like something like that could also be used to make a reciprocating strummer for a guitar string doorbell.
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Apr 26, 2012 18:08
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Not an Anthem posted:2) What are BABY SAFE finishes, and for that matter, are there any woods that I should especially stay away from for babies? I feel like everything is not baby safe. It would be to make toys for my niece. Shellac is safe. The only thing potentially harmful about it is the denatured alcohol that is used to liquify the flakes. Once the alcohol evaporates you can eat it. I wouldn't recommend cracking open a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye and chugging it, but if you mix it yourself using Everclear with shellac flakes, you could drink whatever is leftover straight out of the jar. As for wood types, I'd be more worried about the danger of splinters from chewing than toxicity. Plenty of woods will cause respiratory problems, but that comes from breathing the dust from sanding and machining. I've never heard of any wood being toxic to a child as a result of being in contact with it or chewing on it. If you are particularly paranoid, I guess you could avoid Black Walnut, Cedar, and Mahogany.
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Jul 26, 2012 17:56
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A lot of lathe goons making bowls in this thread. The October 2012 issue of Fine Woodworking has a 5-6 page article on bowl making using segmented pieces. I checked their website but didn't see an online link to the published article. It goes over how to make bowls like this. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Sep 27, 2012 |
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Sep 27, 2012 18:17
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DisposableHero posted:They're not deep (like a millimeter or 2) but they're too much for sanding by hand. I think you are underestimating how much wood some 80 grit sandpaper can tear through.
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Oct 5, 2012 14:17
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When I first saw it on the back cover, I thought the whole thing was a drawing because of the black binding. I read the text inside where they mentioned the door was a trapezoid and my mind kind of slipped a gear trying to figure out what they were talking about until it dawned on me that the door is not open. That is truly one of the most amazing pieces I've ever seen.
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Oct 19, 2012 05:28
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Adraeus posted:Understanding Wood: A Craftsman's Guide to Wood Technology This book goes way the hell above and beyond what you are trying to do. For that dual monitor stand, it would be the equivalent of buying the Machinery's Handbook to figure out how to put together something from Ikea. It is an excellent book, and I'd encourage you to buy it somewhere down the line, but there are better books to buy when you are first starting off. I'd put that one on the back burner and move The Complete Illustrated Guide to Joinery to the top of the list. Finishing is a huge part of woodworking, and I didn't see anything on your list about that. I have Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish by Bob Flexner. It is interesting and enjoyable to read. I learned a lot from it. There is also Tauntons Complete Illustrated Guide To Finishing by Jeff Jewitt. I haven't read that one, but it is also highly recommended. Or you could just skip those books and spray paint your stuff. I haven't read that book you have on your list about workbenches, but if you are thinking of building your own bench, I cannot give a high enough recommendation for The Workbench Book by Scott Landis. It's not only my favorite woodworking book, but one of my favorite books overall. It doesn't have very many measured drawings or plans or anything like that, but it does give you a very comprehensive understanding of benches and their uses throughout history, different cultures, and different styles of woodworking. What type of vises would suit your style of work the best? Do you want a tail vise, face vise, leg vise, shoulder vise,one of those fancy patternmaker vises, or do you just want to use your foot as a vise? If you are thinking, "hrmm, I'm not really sure", then reading this book will get you sorted out.
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Oct 20, 2012 09:43
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Huxley posted:Anyone have recommendations for buying crown molding in bulk? I feel like I can do better than Home Depot on 180 linear feet. I'd just do a google search on "Millwork" then call around and ask for prices. This probably doesn't help you, but the local hardwood dealer here sells standard or custom moldings far cheaper than anything you are going to get at a big box store.
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Nov 13, 2012 08:03
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What would you call that joint on the bottom stool? It isn't exactly a mitered half lap, and it isn't exactly a mitered tenon, either.
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Dec 10, 2012 06:56
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Bad Munki posted:I did find a local mill here. Checked them out, looked at their stock, and it looked good, although limited in species (local hardwoods only: oak, maple, walnut) and at least compared to what I was used to, they were stupidly overpriced. Just out of curiosity, what were they charging per BF for the different grades of walnut? I haven't bought any walnut in ages but it seems that about 7-8 years ago (in MN) I was paying about $5.50BF FAS (or maybe it was S&B) and something like $3.25BF for #2. Regular maple was about a buck cheaper across the board and curly maple was around $6BF.
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Dec 12, 2012 12:29
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