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I have a delta table saw with cast iron wings that would very much like to rust. They came with a thick coat of machine oil on them which I cleaned up. For the time being I've just been wiping a much thinner coat of clean machine oil on them but a friend suggested wax as an alternative. The idea appeals to me but I'm not sure what sort of wax would be appropriate. Plain old bee's wax is the first thing that comes to mind. Any advice? GEMorris: I like your space furniture. How are you doing this? Vacuum forming? I'd love to see the forms associated with the rocking chair, if you have pictures of them.
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Mar 5, 2009 18:45
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GEMorris posted:Awesome ottoman and rocking chair I brought this up earlier but I suspect it was lost in the ensuing argument. How are you shaping these pieces? The ottoman looks to me like laminate and vacuum clamping. That's just a wild guess, though. Mind giving a capsule overview?
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Apr 1, 2009 19:38
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GEMorris posted:Simple profile molds cut out of 3/4" MDF on a CNC router and stacked. The seat mold uses hose clamps for part of the clamping force (It seems like there are far too few of those in that picture, I remember using far more, but it was like 4 years ago). Wow! I didn't expect mechanical clamping. Hopefully you made a few of these after all of that effort. What sort of materials (glue/epoxy and laminates) are you using? I'm guessing some kind of glue and maybe birch veneer? Also, what's the tightest bend you can realistically achieve? That front edge looks like it's got to be getting close. Ever since the first time I saw the Eames lounge I've been fascinated by bent plywood. For whatever reason I'd always thought it to be out of reach without very specialized equipment (not that cnc routers aren't specialized, but I think I could duplicate that mold by hand with some printed patterns and a lot of patience and sanding). It's only lately that I'd begin to suspect that it might be more doable than I thought. It's nice to see it in practice. Thanks! mcrandello posted:formidable looking revised bar plan I don't envy you cutting all of those mortises but it looks like it will be worth it. Just out of curiosity what are you planning to use for the top? laod fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Apr 2, 2009 |
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Apr 2, 2009 05:41
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wormil posted:You may already have noticed but the first saw comes without a fence, the most important part. I'm not familiar with the hybrid saws, that's something new since I bought mine. Likewise I'm not familiar with the T2 fence; but all things considered I would probably still pick the Delta over the Powermatic for the enclosed cabinet and miter gauge. I have the first saw, but since it's my first I have no basis for comparison. So far it's done everything I want to do with little fuss. Mostly that's been cutting sheet goods. I did foolishly rip a pressure treated 4x4. I didn't have anything more appropriate to do the job with (band saw?) I did replace the blade it shipped with with one of the brands recommended in this thread but I suspect to stock blade would have done what I wanted. There are only a few negative things I can say so far: 1) assembling it was an enormous pain in the rear end. 2) I think I did something wrong with the feet and caster that I need to go back and fix but I'm not sure yet what it is... it's just a hassle to get it to sit flat, which is stupid when it has threaded leveling feet. 3) Watching woodworking videos and reading comments in this thread makes me wish it had a riving knife. The splitter, cover, and little anti-kickback catch it has kind of suck. I did have to buy the t2 fence and I can say without reservation that I love it. It didn't take long to set up and calibrate (getting the sight set was the only even slightly tricky part and that's largely because I'm ham-handed). The action is easy, it stays where I put it, and so far it's been accurate and square. I don't see any indication that that's going to change. It also doesn't seem to foul. I spent a day cutting speaker box pieces out of two 4x8 sheets of mdf and never had a problem with the amazing poo poo-heaps of sawdust. I'm not sure that any of these things are criteria someone more experienced would care about but another data point can't hurt. EDIT: forgot to mention that the little miter guide thing it has doesn't seem that great. A lot of that is probably my inexperience. laod fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Jul 22, 2009 |
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Jul 22, 2009 00:53
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I'm interested in building a hardwood table top. I'm trying to google for the techniques involved but I'm getting a lot of garbage (thanks free woodworking plans squatters!). Can anyone give me a brief overview or even just a few key words (beyond the obvious) for me to narrow my search? I guess I'm really just interested in making a large piece of wood out of smaller ones in a way that gives me a nice looking final product. Naively, it seems like if I could get all my component lumber as square as possible I could just epoxy it together in an appropriately overlapping pattern, and then finish the whole thing. That seems fairly inelegant and error prone, though.
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Jul 23, 2009 17:37
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calcio posted:I'm very interested in this too. Does anyone have any good info on how and where to start? What things should I be looking for? I got started building http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guillemot/catalog/boat_building_plans/sg_night_heron_kayak_plans and petered out fairly early on. There used to be a really good link on the guillemot site to two different builds with very good general s&g kayak building info but I can't find it anymore. I actually ran aground on the lofting step. After I got my panels lofted out I did some test cuts and tried to fit them together. It rapidly became clear that I had made some mistake because no amount of stitch and glue was going to pull them together. Not sure exactly what I did wrong. I've actually been thinking about trying again. If 900 people haven't already recommended this, get http://www.amazon.com/Devlins-Boatbuilding-Build-Stitch-Glue/dp/0071579907/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1249313311&sr=8-1 . It's a disorganized mess but devlin knows his poo poo. EDIT: I forgot to mention that the one thing I did get out of my experience was to invest in a really good jigsaw.
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Aug 3, 2009 17:39
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I ran across this clever hack today: http://www.wikihow.com/Build-Simple-Floating-Shelves I'd like to do same thing but strong enough to actually hold moderately heavy books. Not quite the Brittanicas mentioned in the article but a few hardbacks, at least. It seems to me the the glue and nail joint between the top side of the shelf and cleat is going to be the weak spot. I'd probably also replace the door with a torsion box made of light ply, not sure. I guess is my real question is how can I make this stronger? What if I made my torsion box with the wall edge missing and made the grid slot into the cleat somehow? I'd like to keep as much of the floating cantilevered look as possible. I'll probably experiment with a few things but I'd love some ideas. Edit: thinking through this, I don't really understand the loading issues. Is it basically a beam loading problem? laod fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Mar 30, 2010 |
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Mar 30, 2010 18:23
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Just a quick followup. The door is actually pretty strong. It does fine with most of my books, that said, I don't feel confident with a full 5-6' of programming books up there. Going to try a french cleat + torsion box this weekend. If nothing else the better ratio of shelf thickness to shelf depth should help. Apropos of nothing, while reading about dust collection I ran across Bill Pentz' site (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm) now I'm terrified that I'm going to kill myself with dust despite using a respirator almost always and despite the fact that I don't know any wood workers that have gotten sick due to poor dust collection. 
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Apr 2, 2010 01:58
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Joeytunes posted:Impressive table goodness. I'm not qualified to critique the piece beyond simply saying that I really like the way it looks and I love the drawer. I particularly love the overall look in the pic looking into the drawer. I am ambivalent about the sapwood. How did you finish it? I would definitely be interested in seeing how the legs went together. For my personal tastes, I too would have made the lower shelf a bit thicker but I suspect that would be easy to overdo. I might also have tried to hide the drawer while closed by matching the drawer front up more closely in terms of grain and color. On the other hand, what fun is the drawer if it's hidden and I do like the contrast (it matches the sapwood, right? In some of the early pics it looks like it matches the top, in later pics it seems darker. I'm a terrible judge.) Will this be moving into your home after it's gallery stint? It's easy for me to say all of this when I still don't have anything I'm confident enough to post so take me with a grain of salt. Well done.
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Apr 2, 2010 19:32
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Currently I have a table saw... and that's it. For my next purchase I'm torn between a band saw, a planer, or a jointer. I do have a router or I'd probably go for that. Thus far I have built some speakers, some furniture with mostly plywood, and a mid-length list of assorted small projects (boxes mostly - actually, I have a real box theme going on). I guess I also failed to build a plywood kayak in that time. I'd like to get into some larger mostly hardwood pieces, starting with a replacement for a media cabinet (larger version of: http://www.homedecorators.com/P/Burnham_Standard_Multimedia_Cabinet/850/ - like the design, hate the poor construction). I'm leaning towards a planer but I'd like advice from others since I wont get to buy another big tool for quite a while. If I get lucky with craigslist I guess I might be able to manage a planer and jointer, which would be pretty sweet. I'm also open to other suggestions. Honestly the best upgrade for me right now would be a new garage or at least a new slab for the one I have, but that's out of the budget. Apropos of nothing, anyone tried to build a sofa or other large, upholstered piece?
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Apr 3, 2010 04:33
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GEMorris posted:My real suggestion would be to buy a Stanley #6 or #7, and build a Roubo workbench from southern yellow pine. You can build the basic bench without the tail vise for less than $200 and add the vise later. SYP is a forgiving medium to learn how to plane on, and the bench will give you enough material to practice with that you should be relatively competent at flattening boards once you finish. Interesting suggestion. I don't have one of the huge planes (jointers?) but wouldn't mind an excuse to have one. I derive some sick satisfaction from plane tuneups. I would certainly know how to use it after building a bench, no question. One of my first projects was actually a bench based on the assembly table in the wood whisperer videos. It is flat and level (mostly) but almost no thought went in to it, as far as utility went. I ended up drilling holes in it later for pegs to hold things I'm working on. Having something a little better thought-out would definitely be nice. I wonder how much pine I'd have to go through before I got the hang of facing it, though.  Very thin shavings to start with, I guess.
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Apr 6, 2010 00:00
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I just had kind of a weird idea for a project and I'd like to get thoughts about the feasibility. I'd like to build something like free-standing bookshelf but instead for a hydroponics system for house plants. Kind of a living wall. In the place of shelves I'd have troughs with hydroponics style tops (ie holes for plant stems). Each trough would have a fluorescent tube on the bottom for the trough below. I was thinking I could make the troughs water-tight by doing a boat style glassing on the insides. From there it would be matter of plumbing, a pump, and a timer for the flooding schedule. Flood the top trough and then let the water run down to each lower trough. I guess I'd need a reservoir at the bottom for the nutrient solution (ph controlled water + plant feed) that could be easily emptied and refilled. I think I'd have finger holes in the tops and set them in rabbets in the troughs so I could inspect the roots or troughs periodically. Some problems: I need some kind of design or mechanism that keeps water in a given trough for long enough to do the trick. The roots need to be thoroughly wet, I believe. Is glassing the troughs (fiberglass epoxied to the trough) going to be adequate for water tightness? And, is a single fluorescent tube per trough (run while we're not home -- 8 hours each day) going to be enough light for your typical cat-friendly houseplant? Is wanting to do this with wood silly?
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Apr 9, 2010 18:46
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