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Feenix posted:Question: I flooded my charcuterie board with mineral oil. It added depth. I let it dry. I buffer in 2 coats of Odie’s Wax. It looks nice, but I was hoping for a slightly more reflective sheen. (Food safe). Odie’s makes a Wood Butter, too. Anyone have experience with buffing Odie’s Wood Butter? I have no experience with any Odie's product, but getting a higher gloss out of wax depends a great deal on the composition of the wax (beeswax, microcrystalline, carnuba, etc.) and on completely filling the grain of the wood with said wax, and then buffing the poo poo out of it. You can get a pretty decent satin, and even almost gloss out of beeswax, but it takes a whole lot of rubbing.A smooth ball made of an old bedsheet is great for buffing wax up. Rubbing the wax into the grain in little circles will help fill the pores and give you more build to try and buff out. What is the board made of? You can probably get a good shine on maple or cherry or some other closed grain, hard wood.
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Jun 1, 2018 01:18
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Feenix posted:Wood is purpleheart and Black Limba. Hard. I have a buffer. Can’t seem to get much of a sheen...
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Jun 1, 2018 13:34
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duggimon posted:I have a Dewalt 745 tablesaw inherited from my brother in law. It's the older version which, annoyingly, has a riving knife that sits higher than the blade. It's pictured here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Riving-Knife-for-the-DW745-Tablesaw/ which is also a page showing one possible solution to what I'm about to ask. I don't know how much of a pain it is to remove, but you could also just leave it alone and remove it when you're cutting grooves/dadoing. There's much less danger of pinching then as compared to ripping. Kickback can certainly happen dadoing, but a riving knife alone isn't going to stop that anyway.
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Jun 1, 2018 20:01
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underage at the vape shop posted:this is probably a really dumb question but whats the best thing to use to clean a birch desktop that I sealed with danish oil, that won't react with the oil?
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Jun 6, 2018 14:44
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That Works posted:I could use some wood treatment recommendations. Any good quality paint (and there is a world of difference between big box store paint and real Ben Moore/Sherwin Williams) should hold up fine. I would stay away from particle board/MDF in your construction, but plywood and solid wood should be fine. Painted pine baseboard in bathrooms doesn't usually just start rotting. Gloss will get you a bit more water resistance and ease of cleaning than flat paint.
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Jun 6, 2018 16:06
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Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel flows out beautifully and dries slowly like oil paint but cleans up with water and dries hard and shiny and is my go-to for painted furniture or cabinets or whatever.
Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Jun 8, 2018 |
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Jun 7, 2018 23:58
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Feenix posted:Ah so you’re saying the mineral oil is prohibiting anything on top? Ok. Then I hosed up. Oh well, still looks nice. You can still sand it to a higher grit-it's going to clog sandpaper in a hurry, but some of that sanding goop/dust is going to help fill the pores in the wood and get you a higher gloss. Sanding with the grain with 320 wet or dry paper with mineral oil as lube would probably help. Without a film finish under the wax you are going to have a really hard time getting much past a satin finish without rubbing and rubbing and rubbing wax in, but the original finish on a lot of 18th century antiques was just beeswax rubbed and rubbed and rubbed. But then, if you could afford fine furniture you could also afford to have servants to wax it for you. You have to fill every pore in the wood full of wax and then have a layer sitting on top of the wood that can buff. Is the Odies a hard wax or like a paste? It is hard to get paste wax to stay put and fill the pores, where rubbing with solid beeswax will cause friction and begin melt the wax into the wood where it hardens and can be buffed, but that's pretty hard work. If it is a paste, put a heavy layer on and let it dry overnight at least and then buff and repeat several times is going to be your best bet.
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Jun 8, 2018 17:07
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Feenix posted:Hey, working off your advice, I took my wood piece to Rockler and talked to a seasoned employee who was their "finishing" guy. You're definitely on the right track, and you haven't screwed anything up with the mineral oil or anything. If you're going to use mineral spirits anyway, you might want to wipe off some of the wax first with mineral spirits (or really VM&P Naphtha is best for getting wax off) to help the oil penetrate better. Before using either, you might want to try them on some raw wood and let them dry to see if any odor remains in the wood after they dry. I'm not sure I've ever used them on something that would have food contact, but after they evaporate, I can't see any problem if there's no odor left. If you're really worried about it being food safe (and I wouldn't be that much if its mostly just a serving board) make sure your Tung oil is food safe. There's a million different finishing products called 'tung oil' and they have varying proportions of actual tung oil and linseed oil and dryers and who knows what else in them. I've used Waterlox before to good effect on butcher block countertops and I think when cured it is more or less food safe. Looks like they make one with an 85 gloss which is the same sheen level as gloss lacquer. Raw linseed oil is a good alternative (in its more refined form its sold in health food stores as flaxseed oil) but takes forever (days to weeks) to dry. It is a drying oil and completely food safe/natural though, and will polymerize into something of a film eventually, unlike mineral oil. Either way, waxing after you get the oil down will still help get you a bit better shine, as will more and more coats of oil. Part of the reason old, well used wood has such a nice shine and patina is just being rubbed by many hands for years and years, and oiling while sanding with very fine sandpaper helps replicate some of that. I don't know what your original sanding process was , but as this will probably be washed in water, its a good idea to wet the piece to raise the grain, and then sand down again with 220 or finer. If you hadn't done that before you oiled it, it won't hurt to do it now and will keep it from getting fuzzy. Still don't put it in the dishwasher. No wood cutting board can survive multiple trips to the dishwasher. Probably more information than you care about-I've been doing this professionally for about 8 years now and realized I think I'm one of the few people who actually really enjoys the finishing part of woodworking. Nothing ruins excellent woodwork faster than direct sunlight or a bad finish. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Jun 9, 2018 |
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Jun 9, 2018 22:11
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Super Waffle posted:So I'm designing a box to hold all my trading cards and deck boxes, but I've run into an issue. I want to make the lid a single laminated board, but with the roundover I added I don't really have any room to put a latch or clasp to keep the box closed.
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Jun 10, 2018 04:33
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That Works posted:I took advantage of the free shipping period at Lee Valley and went ahead and got some backsaws since I had none. I also grabbed a 'Plywood saw' which was just a dozuki. Ohhh man these are nice. Project I am building now has been made much easier.
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Jun 10, 2018 04:40
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That Works posted:Does anyone have a good tutorial etc on fitting and squaring up stuff? Ie, tricks, systematic way to do it etc? -Panels not actually flat: This happens a lot of if the inside edge of your rail is slightly off square, or if the shoulders of your tenon are a little uneven or not square. You go to glue it up, and the styles pull up under the pressure of the clamp, leaving them at a slight angle to the rail. Clamping cauls across the joint with c-clamps to keep things flat while you bar clamp the assembly together will help, as will making sure everything is square before assembly. If you're cutting your joinery by hand, it can be very tricky to get both shoulders exactly even-on many antiques with pegged tenons, the inside shoulder is intentionally left short to make sure the outside shoulder is tight and it goes together square. You can flatten your panels with a plane without too much trouble if they are not flat and this is causing your problem. Panels not square: This usually happens because the rails are not all the exact same length shoulder to shoulder. I always cut them with a stop block on the chop saw or a cross cut sled on the table saw using the fence as a stop, and run them all through the same machining process for the tenons. It's harder to get perfect by hand. Your warped style could be causing some problems too-always best to face join stuff before you plane it, by that's. It always possible, and construction lumber isn't terrible well dried and stable either. Your idea of putting a shelf there will help, and don't be afraid to cut things to fit reality to make it all come out square-wood moves and warps and we're not machinists. Edit: Adding a top, bottom, and shelf that were square and fastening the sides to that should square everything up, as well as stiffening it all up a bit. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Jun 11, 2018 |
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Jun 11, 2018 19:05
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Feenix posted:SO when I was at Rockler, the finishing guy recommended my first coat of pure Tung oil be cut 50/50 with Mineral Spirits. I get why. I asked if it was still food safe. He says yes, confidently.
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Jun 12, 2018 01:08
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bEatmstrJ posted:Any suggestions for this?
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Jun 12, 2018 01:21
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My local Home Depot actually usually has fairly clear Douglas fir 4x4x8's that are pretty straight for construction lumber. I'd definitely want to still run them over the jointer before I thought about gluing them up, but you might get away with just running them through a planer. Also note that putting a very hard durable finish over a very soft wood is not a great idea-if the finish is harder than the wood, a dent in the wood will turn into cracks in the finish. The same principle applies when recoating an old finish (generally better to strip and start over, but okay sometimes). If you put a hard finish like a conversion varnish over a soft nitrocellulose lacquer or shellac, the top finish will crack, whereas you can put nitrocellulose lacquer over CV. For the same reason, padding lacquer (which is actually shellac) is about the only finish you should ever put over any other finish if you're too lazy to strip furniture.
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Jun 12, 2018 17:06
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ilkhan posted:I started on an entryway coat rack / shelf / key rack thing yesterday. New router table seems to have the insert sunk in some, giving uneven results. Did I miss a step while assembling it or do they usually require shims or what? It's a Bosch RA1171.
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Jun 12, 2018 23:52
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poopinmymouth posted:Here is chair design. Any technical problems that stick out with this design? I am intrigued by, but very unsure about your construction on the sides with the angled stretcher/rail thing. I could see how it would work in theory-your seat is holding things together up top and your rail/stretcher thing should keep it from racking, but I've definitely never seen it done before. If you're mortise and tenoning that rail/stretcher thing (and given all the work you'e asking that joint to do, I definitely would), making it at an angle like that has just made an already tricky bit of joinery four times as hard. If it were me, I would definitely have a side rail going from front to back right under the seat. Your front and back rails look hefty enough that you probably can get away without stretchers lower down the leg, but they would add a ton of strength. Chairs are the most abused piece of furniture and subject to all kinds of weird forces and the are hardest things in the world to build well so I tend to stick with the tried and true.
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Jun 15, 2018 00:42
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Roy Underhill on 'The Woodwright's Shop' will always be the king for me. There's about a decade of them up on the PBS website too. His book 'The woodwright's Guide: Working wood with wedge and edge' is really a wonderful book too.
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Jun 16, 2018 18:53
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Turning some white oak into black oak to turn into cerused oak for a funny little table.  
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Jun 16, 2018 22:30
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Looks great! What kind of wood is it? Kind of looks like red grandis.
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Jun 17, 2018 15:19
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Woodworking has been pretty scarce since we had out second child, but I have been slowly picking away at a couple serving trays. I managed to scrape and sand the veneered panels today and I'm pretty pumped with how they turned out. Just need to cut them to size, and build a tray to go around them. Looks great. How did you veneer them? I've done a lot in a big vacuum press but keep wanting to try hammer veneering with hot hide glue.
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Jun 19, 2018 00:59
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Jaded Burnout posted:I have these stacks of cladding acclimatising in my kitchen/dining/workshop area, stacked flat in rows with spacers every two boards. All that being said, you really need to have a stick between every board. Having one between every two boards is doing more harm than good-air needs to circulate around all 4 sides of a board so it can dry evenly. Having one side of the board up against another board is going to keep that side from drying at the same rate and cause warping. I would bet the ends of those boards are warping away from each other. Some of that warp may even out when the covered side has a chance to dry, but don't count on it. Putting sticks between every row and about every 2' in length and within 6" of the end will help. You can also tighten a few ratchet straps around the pile to keep everything tight.
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Jun 22, 2018 16:41
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Bird in a Blender posted:I'm planning to build a TV stand, something kinda like this. I don't know anything about sliding doors either, but I do know something about hardware. Knape & Vogt (KV) is mostly fine, but if you can find something made by Blüm it will be vastly better. Their drawer glides are the tits.
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Jun 28, 2018 15:35
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You should be able to get the wax off with just rags (change them out frequently with clean ones or else you're just moving the wax around, not removing it) and mineral spirits, but VM&P Naphtha which is readily available at big box stores will do a better job. I can't see how it would make it not food safe as long as it's dried. I would stay away from steel wool on raw wood-little bits can get stuck in the wood and then rust later if it gets wet. It wouldn't hurt to sand it down again with 120 or something after you get wax off and then sand back up to 320.
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Jun 28, 2018 18:51
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Feenix posted:Ok, so just because I'm daft, gonna lay it all out as I understand it. Edit: I would wet it after sanding with 120 to raise the grain, then hit it with 220 and start oiling then. Wet sand with oil starting from 320 if you want to-I don't think you'll see a huge difference sanding to a bazillion grit but you might-I've never sanded anything beyond 320 and always been very happy with the results. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Jun 29, 2018 |
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Jun 29, 2018 04:03
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Feenix posted:I’m not looking for a high sheen just * more * of a finished look than the wax, etc. a buffer look. Wet the wood after you sand it to 120. Let the wood dry, then sand with 220 and 320. Wetting it raises the grain and helps get it really smooth.
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Jun 29, 2018 16:50
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What you are calling varnish is most likely either nitrocellulose lacquer or possibly (if you're lucky) shellac. There are a few things you can do, and you can probably fix it 90% yourself if you are patient and careful. However, you could also make a giant mess. The rough spot in your second picture will be the easier to fix, and you may be able to just sand it out with 320 sandpaper and then rub with 0000 steel wool. The white rings may pose more of a problem if they have bleached the wood underneath. You definitely can spray over the top with canned lacquer, but you will get a better repair if you fix the underlying problems first. You don't really have to know what the existing finish is-you can spray canned lacquer over either- but it is useful to know. Shellac is easier to repair, whereas lacquer is a bit trickier. You can tell if it is shellac by rubbing a small area with denatured alcohol. Shellac is alcohol soluble, and so the finish with get gummy/start to come up a bit if it is shellac. If alcohol doesn't do anything, you can repeat the same process with lacquer thinner and hopefully the finish will get gummy. Given what nail polish remover did-which is mostly acetone, and acetone is a big part of lacquer thinner-you probably have a lacquer finish, though acetone will also damage shellac. Once you know what the finish is, you can begin to repair it. First, if you wax your furniture or use a furniture polish like Pledge, wipe the damaged areas down with paint thinner or preferably VM&P Naphtha to remove the wax and silicone. Next, sand the area lightly with the grain with 320 grit sandpaper. If you follow the sanding up with rubbing with the grain with 0000 steel wool, this may be all you need to do to the rough spot, and may help with your white rings. At this point you have a few options. The easiest thing that just might work is to lightly spray/mist the bad spots with a can of clear gloss lacquer. You might lightly pad a little bit of lacquer thinner on the area first to soften/open up the finish. It will definitely give you some fill/smoothing in the rough spot, and the solvents might open up the finish enough over the white rings to fix them. Several light coats are waaaay better than one heavy coat, and you really need to be careful not to spray a big blob Bad things happen when you spray lacquer in heavy coats. You're going to need to sand down the lacquer you just sprayed with 320 sandpaper after it dries to level with the rest of the finish. Lightly rubbing the whole table with 0000 steel wool will help even out the sheen on the whole table. If spraying over it with lacquer doesn't work, your best bet is going to be to try and amalgamate and pad out the finish, which I would not recommend you do yourself, but if you want to, I will be glad to tell you how. You might make a giant mess of it, and a professional could probably do it in an hour for $100 or something when you'd have to spend $40 on materials and have a quart of amalgamator sitting around you don't need.
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Jul 4, 2018 18:34
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If it is 10 years old and from Vietnam, it almost certainly some sort of lacquer. It is probably stained with a stain on the wood, but may also have shaded/tinted lacquer to even out the color. Hopefully the damage from the glade thing is a problem just in the finish, and happened from turning the finish milky, not actually bleaching it or the wood. It is VERY hard to match a color well just in a little ring to where it doesn't show, and I have like 50 billion touch up pens and powders and dyes and poo poo. I would try hitting it with a little lacquer thinner first and see if that fixes it. If not, some touch up markers are probably your best bet-look for ones that are more just dye than pigment, and start lighter than you think. It usually works best to color some on there and then wipe it off real quick so it doesn't get too dark, and it helps smudge the edges so you don't have a hard line between colors. I'd look for colors like 'light walnut' or 'nutmeg' or something like that. Colors meant for mahogany are probably going to be too dark/red for what you have. Once you get the color where you want it, spray over it with lacquer. If you get a chance to take another picture of the white ring at a low angle with sort of raking light like your second picture I might could tell better what is going on there.
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Jul 5, 2018 01:03
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nwin posted:
Forget the lacquer thinner-that might have helped you if this was caused by moisture under the finish as is often the case with white rings, but it looks like the shading lacquer just came off with your air freshener. Get some touch up markers and do your best job coloring within the lines and spray some lacquer over the top of it. Give it 45 min or so between coats of lacquer and scuff sand with your 320 between coats-looks like your'e going to need to build up the finish where it has been stripped off. Finish with sandpaper on a block to level the repair to the existing finish-you're probably looking at at least 5 light coats. Find a color that is the right shade/tint, but maybe not saturated enough and put that on the raw wood, and you can add more color between coats of lacquer (and work it into the surrounding finish in good shape to blend it) to get it just right. Mohawk Pro Mark touch up pens are great (https://www.amazon.com/Mohawk-Finishing-Products-Marker-Walnut/dp/B016381D9E), but you might be able to find a Minwax or whatever one locally. I know the Mohawk ones are very compatible with whatever you want to spray over it and dry pretty much instantly, I'm not as sure about the Minwax ones. I think a light brown walnut or fruitwood or nutmeg or maaaybe golden oak or something in that neighborhood is going to be about what you want. You may be able to find a local cabinet supply distributor that carries Mohawk stuff where you could see colors in person. Now I want to know what it is in Glade air fresheners and where I can buy it in 55 gallon drums to strip furniture. It's got to smell better than methylene chloride.
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Jul 5, 2018 02:43
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You should consider if you are interested in the hobby of making stuff out of wood or the hobby of using hand tools. They are very much connected and related, but if you want to actually make stuff that doesn't take forever-if the end result is more your interest than the process- then you are going to want some power tools, in particular a router. I absolutely love using hand tools, and relish when a job requires me to slow down and get out planes and chisels, but electricity is a wonderful thing when you need to get something done, and a router, especially with a router table, is about the most versatile power tool there is. It will do absolutely everything a router plane will do, and a whole lot more besides. You don't need one now, but you might want one soon. Whatever your interest, you do need some stuff to start, and a saw and some chisels are definitely up there. If at this point you mostly want to play around cutting joints and are going to use surfaced lumber, you don't really need a plane, but it's a good thing to have around. The old Stanley block planes are great, and readily available used. I have some very fancy Lie-Nielsen saws that are indeed a pleasure to use and worth every penny, but the first saw I reach for 90% of the time is one of these: https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=pull+saw I learned to cut dovetails with the small one, and the large one does about everything I've ever needed a saw to do. It's slower than a big handsaw, especially for ripping, but it absolutely cuts wood and costs $20 and doesn't ruin your day if you drop it or hit a nail or something. Narex makes well made chisels for very cheap, and you really don't need a bunch of chisels. 1/4" and 1/2" and maybe a wider one. You can cut about every woodworking joint you can imagine with a saw and sharp chisels and a drill to start a mortise. Used tools can be a great deal, but they can also be a huge time sink and very frustrating to set up if you don't know how they are supposed to work in the first place. Time spent cutting wood with a cheap tool is time better spent than time fretting about if you have the right tool. The best favor you can do yourself (and it's free!) is watch The Woodwright's Shop with Roy Underhill on PBS-there's like a decade of back episodes here http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/home/ He's not some dude from youtube and absolutely knows what he's doing. His book The Woodwright's Guide is absolutely wonderful and is not long and covers briefly everything from felling a tree to wood movement to veneering. It may give you some guidance as far as what you want to make or do. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Jul 6, 2018 |
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Jul 5, 2018 23:56
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Kudaros posted:I just bought a laguna 14bx 220V bandsaw new. I bought a new 1/2" blade and mounted it today. The sound is totally different from the 1/4" before, with a cyclic sound and a back-and-forth wobble (rather than side-to-side). Laying it flat on the ground it appears to be otherwise fine. The weld is maybe a bit rough? As in, I can feel it. I can barely even locate the weld on the 1/4" blade but I've also used it quite a bit already. darkspider42 posted:I received these vises from my mom that were my grandfather or uncle's. What's the best way to clean them up, sandpaper, WD40 and lots of elbow grease?
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Jul 7, 2018 04:33
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Feenix posted:Alright, I'm back from my camping trip. I have done a lot of reading and I REALLY appreciate the advice for how to strip my charcuterie board but I think I have landed on the side of not wanting to use Min Spirits or Naptha.
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Jul 9, 2018 18:54
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Feenix posted:Don't have hand planes yet. Would also be worried about leveling it hosed up.
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Jul 9, 2018 20:16
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I would not let wood dry in the sun-it can very quickly dry out on the sunny side more than the shady side and cause it to cup, but if you keep your eye on it it should be fine. On the other hand, if you have a badly cupped board, you can occasionally flatten it some by putting it in the sun. It will usually move back to it's original shape if not secured in it's new one, however. I only say sand with 320 by hand because I only have it in sheets. I just use it for scuff sanding or wet sanding during finishing, and so don't have any orbital pads. If you've got some laying around, doing it by machine won't hurt. You can actually cause problems for yourself sanding wood to too high a grit, especially with water based dye stain. If you burnish the wood by sanding it too finely, you can cause shiny/burnished spots that won't take stain like the unburnished wood and cause blotchy spots. I've not noticed much of a difference under a film finish sanding to higher grits vs. stopping at 220. For stuff that's oiled or waxed, you do get a better shine by going to higher grits. It is also generally better (and faster) to go from 60 to 80 to 100 to 120 etc-you've got to the get the scratches out from each coarser grit with the finer, and it takes a looooong time sanding at 120 to get deep 60 grit scratches out, but it can certainly be done and saves you keeping a million grits of paper around. You probably wouldn't notice any difference just oiling it, but with dye stain and glaze under lacquer, coarse scratches you missed can suddenly and angrily appear.
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Jul 10, 2018 00:06
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Cool Transformers TV contraption! Wouldn't have ever thought to stick a tv in a cabinet like that, but it looks like it fits perfectly. Why did you put poly over the paint in the first place? Good paint is a very durable finish to start with, and I wouldn't expect much wear up there anyway. Polyurethane does yellow, as you now know, but there's nothing wrong with putting another coat of something tinted over it to try and get a color you like. The worst that could happen is you spend $20 on some more poly and hate it and have to strip it and that's where you are now anyway. You can tint polyurethane with universal pigments like paint is tinted with, or oil soluble dyes. It can be a bit difficult to get the color on evenly if you're not spraying it-where your brush strokes lap will have more color than the rest of it etc.
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Jul 10, 2018 02:02
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Kudaros posted:Re: the 1/2" blade on the bandsaw. I ran it over a stone for a bit, increased the tension more (this was too difficult before -- I think some of the parts need a little breaking in at first), and just used it for a while, and the back-and-forth wobble improved quite a bit. It's still there, just barely noticeable. I made some shelving and ripped some long pieces, and the cut is actually remarkably straight and acceptably smooth (minor sanding makes a decent surface). I'm a huge fan of this bandsaw.
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Jul 11, 2018 04:15
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djfooboo posted:Wood movement frightens me. I need a resource to learn about it and what I can do to mitigate it. Bruce Hoadley's book "Understanding Wood" is about as good a source as you can get. When my cousin was getting a PhD in Wood Science, he said that book was always his go-to quick reference cheat sheet. Roy Underhill's "The Woodwright's Guide" also does a very good job of explaining what is going on in very simple, practical terms.
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Jul 12, 2018 19:23
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Sugar pine is absolutely one of my favorite woods to work by hand. Such pleasant, soft, stable wood. I've generally found dovetails easier to do in softwoods-they'll sort of bash together if they're too tight, where I find hard woods have to be fit much more closely.   Looking at my paring vs. bench chisels, they look fairly close to the same angle-the paring chisels are an old set I've just honed and never ground, and they are maybe a bit lower of an angle. Interestingly, the chisels are slightly curved along their length to get the handle up out of the way, and contrary to the usual advice to flatten the bottom of chisels, they are honed with a bit of a rounded/angled bottom which also helps get the handle up out of the way, and they cut beautifully. Probably worth trying grinding one to a lower angle, you'd just have a weaker edge but that should be less of an issue on a chisel just used for paring. I find the best help on end grain is to make sure you are sort of slicing when you cut and not just pushing. Edited for accidentally huge pictures. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Jul 16, 2018 |
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Jul 16, 2018 17:01
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Hard maple and cherry are my favorites for cutting boards, endgrain or otherwise. Both have fine grain and closed pores which are good for cutting boards. Soft maple is okay too and a bit cheaper than hard, especially if you get paint grade stuff-which depending on your lumberyard also often has lots of curly maple hidden in it. My lumberyard mostly sells to cabinet and millwork shops and they consider curl a defect, so they stick it all in the paint grade pile for cheap. It's as hard or harder than cherry, and especially for end grain boards is plenty hard. Walnut is also popular, but I don't love it because it is open grain (and theoretically little salmonellas or whatever can hide in those pores) and it's not as hard as I like, but does make a nice contrast with lighter woods. Mahogany, oak, ash etc also go in the camp of open grained stuff that I don't love for cutting boards. Beech is sort of open grained but gets used in all kinds of kitchen utensils so I guess it's fine. It's pretty bland looking too, but often available quite inexpensively.
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Jul 19, 2018 01:22
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Blum makes some really cool soft close hinge things for that application so you don't smash your fingers. Might hold stuff open too, I can't remember.
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Jul 20, 2018 02:51
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 14:54 |
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Always sand with the grain (doesn't matter for end grain, obviously). Crossgrain belt sander marks are hard as hell to get out with an orbital sander. Always keep the sander moving, be careful not to tip it over at all or rock it sideways or you will gouge the work. As Hypnolobster said, the weight of the machine should be plenty-I do lots of one handed belt sanding. Be especially careful around edges not to let it fall off the edge slightly. I tend to go in long strokes the length of the work, overlapping each one by about half. There is a graphite coated fabric that you can put in the platten of the sander that helps prevent gouging and keeps the belts much cooler and just generally helps enormously. Belt sanders are sanders and are best used as the first step of the finishing process, not as a shaping/machining process. They're very good at removing milling marks/tearout and quickly making a surface smooth, but they are very bad at getting a surface flat or true, and especially in softer woods can very quickly make a flat, square surface into a giant mess. Edit: Oh and make sure you have a solid backstop behind the work or it will go flying across the room
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Jul 25, 2018 00:35
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