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The best strength/weight for doing this out of wood is probably 1/2" plywood. If you have access to a table saw or circular saw and know how to use them safely, you can rip 2" strips of 1/2" ply and screw them together into an L or T shape to make 'boards' with triangular gussets in the corners and make an extremely strong construction. An easier but slightly heavier and bulkier option is to use 2x2 or 2x4 (or probably 1x4 if you're picky to avoid knots) lumber with triangular plywood braces on the corners like Wizard of Goatse suggested. 1/2" or 3/8" plywood glued and screwed should be more than sufficient. Even very thin plywood is very stiff against forces parallel to the face of the sheet and that's what you need. You can also make those brackets out of a 1x6 or 1x4 or somethin if that's easier to handle, you just want to make sure the grain is running parallel to the hypotenuse of the triangle like this (but on the underside):  And be sure to pre-drill pilot holes for the screws as they will be near the end of the board and likely to split. Also definitely use glue. Any wood glue or carpenter's glue or even elmer's white glue is fine, but in a perfect world Titebond II or Titebond III would be best as they have good water resistance.
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Apr 13, 2024 02:02
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hobbez posted:Finishing a maple dining room table we’ve stripped and sanded tomorrow.
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Apr 14, 2024 19:58
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Skunkduster posted:I see a lot of the woodworking channels using monocoat rubio as the end all for wood finish. Is that all youtube hype, or is it like Festool where it is good, but you are going to pay a lot for it? I have read a lot about it tho, and from everything I can tell it’s basically a hard wax oil like Osmo or many others, but with a hardener/drying agent and a lot of color choices.https://declare.living-future.org/products/rubio-monocoat-oil-plus-2c Boiled Linseed oil and some waxes. The main difference between monocoat and others seems to be the addition of a 2nd component that’s a catalyst to speed drying. You could probably use something like Japan drier with any other hard wax oil and get a similar effect if you need fast drying? Their colors also seem to be pretty good and varied which probably makes a lot of people happy since amateur woodworkers are largely terrified of stain. I assume their colors also act more like a gel stain which is going to give a really uniform result (at the cost of some clarity) vs either a dye or pigment stain. I’ve been very happy with Osmo’s polyx oil. It dries overnight IME and is pretty water resistant and has a similar matte ‘nothing on the wood’ look and feel which I think is another thing people like about monocoat. It’s also not cheap, but it’s pretty user friendly and idiot proof with no mixing of catalysts required. Other places make hardwax oils too. I got some Briwax hard wax oil which I haven’t tried yet but it was considerably cheaper than Osmo. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Apr 15, 2024 |
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Apr 15, 2024 19:35
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Just Winging It posted:(The other aspect is trying to do things with stain that just can't be done. Pine or plywood just doesn't have the structure or porosity to imitate walnut or mahogany, no matter how much you slather on it.)
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Apr 15, 2024 21:25
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There are a few exceptions to this, but in general my rule of thumb is don't buy machinery (lots of cast iron, not portable, has a big induction motor on it-cabinet saws, jointers, planers over 13," bandsaws, drill presses) from a power tool (portable, plastic and aluminum, some kind of universal motor-circ saws, routers, power drills etc.) brand. Delta is one of those brands trying to do both and I don't think it's workin great for them.My Spirit Otter posted:out of curiosity, i know old delta shop tools are second to none, but i havent heard anything about delta beyond the 90s. they still have that reputation? Old Delta stuff is a huge range of quality. Before Rockwell sold the brand in the 80s it was good quality high-end hobbyist/low-end professional stuff, and mostly stayed pretty good and largely made domestically. After Black and Decker bought them in the early 2000s it became alot more of a Taiwan-import brand that still traded on the old name and faded out almost all domestic manufacturing like Jet, Powermatic, General, Oliver, etc. but mostly still made decent machinery. Unisaws I think have always been (still are?) made in the US. I had a made in Taiwan delta jointer and it was great till it fell off a forklift. There was some really great heavy industrial stuff in the 80s/90s sold under the Rockwell and later Delta names manufactured by Invicta in Brazil that has a good reputation on the used market. Leperflesh posted:
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Apr 19, 2024 18:54
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Leperflesh posted:How much do you disagree with https://www.woodsmith.com/review/best-band-saw/? There are three WENs on their list, and that's why I included them, but I have no personal experience with those. They also recommend the Delta 28-400. Despite being from Woodsmith which is a mediocre but real woodworking magazine, that looks like every AI-generated 'review' article ever and two of those three WEN bandsaws are portabands for metal, and in the same article it list 'heavy' as a con for a stationary bandsaw which is the opposite of a con for me, so I guess I'd disagree with it totally? I don't have much personal hands on WEN experience but a buddy of mine has gotten a few of their things for small projects over the years and the Harbor Freight comparison was his. And Laguna definitely brings in good bandsaws! That's what they made their name on.
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Apr 19, 2024 20:37
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Sockser posted:I just managed to completely stall out my jointer Have you checked the belt tension/condition? Are the knives sharp? Sounds to me more like a slipping belt than a stalled motor unless you were taking a really heavy cut and the knives are dull. Also next time don't back the wood off, just lift it up against the fence. Otherwise, all the things listed above-Grizzly, Jet, Laguna, Rikon, Ridgid (I think makes/used to make a jointer) etc. or used.
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Apr 20, 2024 02:50
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Sockser posted:Knives are definitely sharp, replaced fairly recently
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Apr 20, 2024 14:17
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more falafel please posted:Any tips for making templates? I'm making a plant stand with legs roughly shaped like this (I've tweaked some of the actual dimensions to look less dumb since I did the sketchup drawing, but the overall shape is the same): I use rasps, planes, and cheap, coarse harbor freight files a lot for patterns. I usually use half inch plywood because MDF is pretty hard on hand tools, but you can always sharpen hand tools, not a big deal. I prefer 1/2” stuff because it’s alot more meat for the bearing to ride on and is much stiffer and takes less fastening to the workpiece. You’re right that with the exception of a stationary disk/belt sander or sandpaper stuck to a block, sanding is almost never a good way to get a straight, precise line. I would probably do about what your describing-get as much as you can out of the machines (the straight lines) and then clean everything else up (inside curves) by hand with files and rasps. It’s really worth spending time to get the pattern just right. I would probably bandsaw those outside lines and get them straight on the jointer-exactly how you do that is gonna depend on your equipment. Table straight-line jig, bandsaw and handplane, router running against a fence are all just different ways to get where you want to go. You might want to look into making an L fence for your tablesaw (basically a fence that sits just above the blade). They are really handy for safely kinda free handing stuff on the tablesaw. Whiteside’s 1/2” spiral flush trim bits are really amazing. Not cheap but they make pattern work a ton easier because they largely ignore grain.
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Apr 23, 2024 01:34
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Making that template is a good example of where a tracksaw would shine, line the track up and plunge right up into the corners and cut the tapers. These look great. Did you fume the white oak frames? They have a nice a color. AFewBricksShy posted:I am making a dice tower for my nephew, and I want to make it look like a castle. Otherwise, vise and chisel or redesign the turrets to not be round lol. e: Rocko Bonaparte posted:I have some birch plywood here with an edge that shows a bit of the dark layer immediately underneath. It's just on the edge in a few thin lines. Yes, I sanded too much. Is there anything I can do to lighten that up or color over it? I know about staining markers and the like for dark colors, but this plywood is really light in color and we want to use a clear wipe-on poly. Wood putty isn't really doing the job since it has to be laid so thin that I still see it. The least bad way to repair it is to touch it up. You have to use a pigmented product to make things lighter-dyes (like touch up markers) can only make things darker. These are the standard professionally-just very finely ground dry pigments that you mix with shellac or really anything to make a touch up paint, but you can use literally any opaque paint. A paint pen works, acrylic paint, latex paint, whatever. You want to use very thin layers (so you may need to thin the paint out with the appropriate solvent) so you don't see the thickness of the paint under the finish. You can touch up 90% of woods with white, black, burnt and raw sienna and burnt and raw umber mixed correctly. For birch, if you can find a tan sorta color that would be better to start from than white. It's almost always better with touchup to go too dark rather than too light, and less is usually more. You're not trying to make the sand-thru disappear, you're trying to make it not jump out. Make some samples out of scraps to practice on and test compatibility with your top coat. There shouldn't be an issue there if you let the paint fully dry and keep it thin, but to be safe you can lightly scuff sand the paint with 220 or 320, put a very thin coat of dewaxed shellac over it, lightly scuff that when dry, then proceed with the wipe-on poly. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Apr 24, 2024 |
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Apr 24, 2024 14:26
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Just to be certain then: would a water-based polyurethane serve as a base into which I could mix up that stuff? I'm planning to try this out and would be happy if it mixes with what I intend to apply as a finish anyways. This guy is a treasure in person and goofy on youtube, but he does some touch up stuff with powders around the 9:00 mark in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kp87We2E-44
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Apr 24, 2024 18:41
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The real magic happens when you add dye over those. You can get it too light with the powders, seal them down with a thin coat of finish, then use a touch up marker over the top to tweak the color more. They are also very useful for tweaking pigment stains.
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Apr 24, 2024 18:46
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They’re not cheap (tho usually comparable to or cheaper than a lie-nielsen/Veritas) but EC Emmerich planes are awesome. Beech bodies with hornbeam or lignim vitae soles for wear resistance and either a wooden wedge which fits great or some have a metal screw adjusting mechanism that also works well. I have a big jointer or try plane or something of theirs with just a wedge and its not difficult to adjust, stays super sharp, and is a pleasure to use. Waxed wooden planes just fly along the wood.
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Apr 25, 2024 01:18
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Just Winging It posted:I didn't know Bridge City sponsored youtubers, those guys don't seem to touch anything that doesn't come in a systainer or requires physical effort lmao Video content: Felder/Hammer gave me this sliding table saw to try out, now I don’t need a shooting board! There is a ton of manual skill in woodworking, and especially hand tool woodworking, that really can only be gained by time on the tools. I think the appeal of fancy tools is that they’ll let you skip that, but they won’t. Someone with 20 years experience can use a bad chisel more effectively than someone with little experience can use a good one. They’ll also know the difference between a bad chisel and a good one, and be able to turn a bad one into a good one. That being said, if you’re teaching yourself from books or YouTube or whatever, buying a known good tool can be super helpful to know what the tool should feel like and how it should work when it’s working well. This has come up itt before and it never occurred to me as a problem, but most people doing woodworking at home are self taught, and even the best video can’t show you what a well set-up plane or properly ground skew should feel like. Being able to have someone who knows what they’re doing hand you a tool that is set up so you can get your eBay plane to feel like that one, or better yet someone looks at your eBay plane and says ‘oh yeah that’s sharp but you’ve got the chip breaker waaaay too far back and that’s causing all your problems’ is really huge. I’ve never taken a woodworking class, but it seems like that kind of stuff would be as useful as whatever the class was actually nominally about. Anyway THE BEST PLANE that everyone should have is a good metal block plane. If I grab a plane (which isn’t as often as I’d like) it’s probably that one. It’s weird because they are kinda esoteric but my hollows and rounds are probably the 2nd most common planes I use. I don’t do a ton of hand plane work because I have machines and sandpaper for that but hollows and rounds solve a lot of problems in my work that aren’t easily, quickly, or cheaply solved any other other way.
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Apr 25, 2024 04:01
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Y’all be nice to each other please. Post about your favorite posts, not poster.
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Apr 26, 2024 01:14
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I’m rather fond of a stop chamfered post with a nice lambs tongue
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Apr 26, 2024 01:19
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It's really hard to beat euro hinges for ease of installation, adjustability, etc. especially on shop cabinets or kitchen cabinets.
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Apr 26, 2024 16:09
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NomNomNom posted:Dumb question but can you use euro hinges with face framed cabinets? There is fr a euro hinge for basically every application you can conceive of.
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Apr 26, 2024 16:48
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NomNomNom posted:Not immediately relevant to my project, but good to know thanks. Tool cabinet is looking nice too!
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Apr 26, 2024 19:30
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deimos posted:If you want to know the variety of euro hinges look up the Blum concealed hinge brochure. It's 100 pages. drat near all of them are hinges and opening/closing systems, the rest are jigs and tools. Sugatsune also has a shitload of hinge variety.
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Apr 26, 2024 20:09
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deimos posted:I think the video works as a generic "cheap plane" review. That is to say, fine to buy if you have the knowledge and time to fix it available (yourself or someone with experience). The only expensive planes I would never use are the harvey tools one (bridge city), they are just... Anti-ergonomic.
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Apr 28, 2024 14:03
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Dang that's a great idea. It would help contain the mess of spilled coffee ground that winds up on my counter every time I fill mine up too.
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Apr 30, 2024 14:15
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meatpimp posted:Is that enough to keep a 1x10 from bowing?
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May 2, 2024 18:28
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Metal handle on an ice saw just seems cruel too.
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May 3, 2024 04:22
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I have often said that bandsaws are the safest powered saws and had safely used one daily for almost 15 years without incident but yesterday I stuck my finger in the blade. Could have been much worse, just a little 1/4" deep slice from the middle of my nail to the tip of my finger (thankfully not thru to the bottom of my finger) and it honestly is less painful than some splinters I've gotten but it's gonna take a bit longer to heal. Like every machine-related injury I've ever gotten, it happened at the end of a long sweaty day after 5 when I wanted to 'just finish this one thing'. I'm not 100% sure what I did. It was right after I finished a cut, and I must have swiped my right hand too close to the blade as I was moving my hand back to reset and cut the next board. Painful reminder to slow down, take your time, cool off, it can wait until you're fresh in the morning. On the up side, stayin off machines for a few days will make me finally figure out how to inlay on the CNC. Minor gore pic for the curious sickos that want to see: 
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May 3, 2024 16:52
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CommonShore posted:did/do they use creosote beams in mines? My old boss had some walnut RR tie stock he had gotten somewhere before it was creosoted and the quality wasn’t great but you could get some heavy but short stock out of it. E: from a 1928 publication on mine Timbers in Michigan iron mines. I hadn’t considered the increased fire hazard. quote:Treatment with preservatives has long been used to increase the life of woods. Either creosote or zinc chloride will lengthen the life of a piece of timber provided that the impregnation is properly clone. Each of these preservatives has its faults, however. Creosote increases the fire hazard, which at best is ever present, causes excessive wear and tear of clothes of the men who handle the timber, and emits offensive odors— which are accentuated in the limited underground air spaces. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 16:22 on May 5, 2024 |
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May 5, 2024 16:12
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tracecomplete posted:Hard to use? What do you mean--just not commercially popular? 'Cause I think sweetgum looks rad and wish I could get some up here (but New England is far from sweetgum territory).
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May 5, 2024 16:27
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CommonShore posted:But (as he puts it) bicycles have benefited also from better materials, better machined parts, better bearings, etc. In 1910 you couldn't gear shift your bikes, e.g. We now have multiple kinds of brakes and handlebar configurations and wheel designs for different uses and contexts. Human-powered tools stopped getting this kind of attention, so we don't know what kinds of doors we could yet open. It's a compelling question on the boundary of the known unknown and the unknown unknown. I think the issue remains that these are largely solved problems. The design of planes evolved over the 19th and early 20th centuries, a time when tens of millions of men were actually using those tools daily for billions of man-hours, into a few basic forms that work pretty darn well. That's not to say there isn't more work that can be done, but like a whole lot has been done already. e: Suntan Boy posted:Turns out, yeah, that's pretty much what you do: Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:23 on May 5, 2024 |
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May 5, 2024 19:20
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Grumio posted:Just today I saw an article about some new planes with disposable blades, which was new to me: https://tersaknives.com/collections/rali-hand-planes
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May 6, 2024 14:16
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Well, looks like I have another project now: 3D printer enclosure. The large grow tent I bought for it is just a little bit too small (it's a larger-than-usual printer), and I have a feeling all the other enclosures on Amazon come out of the same factory in China and I'll run into the same problem. If you want to get fancier and are properly equipped, screws (pocket hole or thru-screwed butt joints which are quicker and arguably stronger) are arguably better, staples are faster and stronger. Or machine screws and threaded inserts. Or 3D print some corner brackets you can screw the panel together with to make it all knock down, idk. Pretty much any metal fastener. Add glue to any of the above if desired, but its not necessary and that's around the temp where normal PVA wood glue starts to lose strength anyway.
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May 7, 2024 03:05
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I switch my brain to metric when I use my domino and it is a ton easier and I will likely build metric, 32mm kitchen cabinets for my kitchen soon. I've just figured out how to switch the DRO on my planer back and forth from decimal inches (decimal inches being their own headache vs fractional...) to mm and it's not hard to do but it takes probably 6 minutes and not something I'd want to do every day so I've been thinking of switching everything to metric. The main downsides that occur off the bat are: -All my router bits/drill bits are imperial -Harder to source metric tooling for the above (tho definitely not impossible) -I do some larger work, and 3124mm seems harder to remember than 10' 3" -After 35 years of existing in Imperial my brain has a pretty darn good idea what and eight, quarter, half etc inch looks like, and retraining it to think that as 12mm or whatever instead might be hard. I can instantly 'see 2', I can't instantly look at something and say that's 600mm. And the upsides: -Math way easier, dividing 3124mm by three is alot easier than dividing 10' 3" by three -making cutlist spreadsheets in excel much easier -never trying to round 1/32nds up or down -Probably fewer mistakes, eventually Woodworking goons that live in countries where Imperial feet/inches are the norm: have you switched your woodworking to metric? or thought about switching your shop to metric? If so, what weird little frustrating things have you run into as far as most supplies/tooling etc. being nominally imperial?
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May 10, 2024 20:47
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Leperflesh posted:Interesting question for you as a production guy, but also I had to lol at your probably unintentional choice of example here: The big frustration is that my planer is metric and moves in .1mm increments. That's about .004" which is pretty tiny, but enough to notice. But the frustrating thing about it displaying in imperial is that it is still working in .1mm increments and then converting them, so it reads either .248" or .252" but will never read .250" That's not usually a big deal, but it can be frustrating if I'm trying to match a part to a batch I already ran. The cut list says 2.25", but did I do 2.248" or 2.252"? And the minimum cut it can take is ~.02", so I can't just take another pass when I feel the paper-thickness difference. I often write the actual DRO dimension I milled to either on the cutlist or on the stock itself, which works great (when I remember to do it), but it would be alot easier to write 6mm on the cutlist and know that it was milled to 6.0mm. Add on to that, having to convert from fractional inches to the decimal inches the DRO displays in is another potential source of error. I have a chart taped above the DRO but it has still tripped me up sometimes. And most plywood I use is imported which is usually actually metric thickness etc etc. I hadn't thought about buying in board feet and that's exactly the kind of answer I was hoping for. An advantage of making cutlists in mm is that I should easily be able to calculate total volume of parts and then have it spit out a volume in cubic meters or w/e and convert that to BF. Alternatively, keep doing it the way I do know which is print a drawing in imperial and do a take off on that because excel does not handle fractional numbers well (or at least I'm too dumb to make it). I usually see a table is 32" x 90" and round up to call it 3'x8' or 24 bf anyway instead of (32*90)/144=20 BF. e: Sockser posted:Wait, actually, how is lumber sold in metric countries? board-meter? Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 22:10 on May 10, 2024 |
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May 10, 2024 21:57
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Leperflesh posted:I find that if I'm trying to deal with wood in measurements of less than like 1/32" I've gone horribly wrong because wood does not like to remain within that sort of tolerance, and also I use a lot of hand tools and lol at trying to hit that with them either. I'm usually taking some measurement and transferring it rather than dividing it by seven or something. And I usually go over whatever amount I am looking at with buying stock by some large margin of error, because of split ends on the stock or uncertain kerf widths or just to account for my general jackassery cutting things wrong. I used to do a drawing with basic overall dimensions and then work off 'as built' measurements (or often direct transfers) as I got down to details like tenon placement, building drawers/doors, etc. Since adding a sliding table saw with very accurate stops/fence (and probably eventually adding a DRO to that as well) and getting alot better at CAD, I've really transitioned to building things truly as drawn and it's made my shop time alot more efficient at the expense of more computer time. I realize I'm probably in the minority in wanting to spend more time touching my computer and less time in the shop, lol. It's also been pretty cool to be able to build drawers/doors and cases concurrently and have them all (mostly) fit, whereas I used to never start on those until the case was glued up. So now that I care about hitting actual numbers accurately, I'm trying to figure out the best numbers to use easily.
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May 10, 2024 23:02
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tracecomplete posted:I'm in the middle of doing exactly that right now. (Not a production shop.) I do a lot of 3D printing so millimeters have been sneaking into my brain anyway, and I have a tracksaw and an MFT (whose imperial dimensions are lying liars that lie) so now I am becoming metric-pilled in the wood shop too. And holy crap yeah Fastcap tapes are amazing. I used 16' stanley ones for forever but the fastcap ones are so easy to read and I love how they have the 16ths numbers alllllll the way down the tape. At first I thought the built in pencil sharpener was a dumb gimmick I would never use but I wind up using it all the time. I got a dorky little belt pouch a few months ago I keep a 6" square, metric/imp 6" rule, sharpie, mechanical pencil, normal pencils, and my tape clipped too and it has save me so much time wandering around looking for any of the above. If only I could permanently attach safety glasses to my body as well.
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May 11, 2024 15:32
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tracecomplete posted:It’s not, and that’s why I wear a full face mask when doing nasty stuff - it’s cheaper!
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May 13, 2024 01:50
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dupersaurus posted:So I'm looking to add a fold-down top extension to the back of this thing to get more working surface. The obvious solution of course is to just get some dumb door or piano or whatever hinge to swing the top, and then a ledge thing (technical term) that swings out under that. However, the cabinet lives in a deep nook so to open the extension I'd have to pull it all the way out and put it back in. Are there any fancy hinges out there that can work without direct access like that, maybe something like a euro hinge with self-locking? It'd have to support some weight, but for the use case not a huge amount. https://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/6401/011009034.pdf https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-a-Dutch-Draw-Leaf-Dining-Table/
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May 13, 2024 17:22
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alnilam posted:I wanna get some sharpening stones, I know this is a If I were just gonna get one thing, I'd probably go with oil stones, with a coarser diamond if the budget allowed. Oil stones are fairly slow to sharpen, but they last forever and make a beautifully sharp edge. My black Arkansas stone, aside from just being pretty, will put a mirror polish on stuff. If you can add a diamond stone into the mix, it will let you bypass alot of the 'slow to sharpen.' It also helps alot with coarser oil stones to scrub them from time to time with soapy water or naptha.
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May 13, 2024 18:47
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topic but drat the choices are overwhelming... Basically down to either: