|
I've been picking up handtool-only woodworking for various reasons and I just wanted to say to no one in particular: Going cheap for my first set of chisels was probably a mistake.
|
#
¿
Dec 12, 2021 22:33
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 07:21 |
|
|
So I bought a wooden jointer plane ($12, couldn't pass it up) and the wedge that came with it has some hairline cracks in it. What kind of epoxy/filler/whatever should I use to fill the cracks and hopefully strenghten the wedge? Making a new wedge is probably above my skill level and seems like a major PITA besides. Also, the blade and chip breaker don't fit well in the throat, but apparently it's not uncommon for that to happen in the winter. I'll wait until the spring before I start modifying stuff, unless someone has a good source saying otherwise.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 10, 2022 03:28
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Several things here. First: it's extremely common for wooden planes to have their wedges get mixed up and replaced with one from a different plane. Especially if you buy one from an antique store or flea market or basically anyone who isn't an experienced woodworker to begin with. Second, they're tapped in with a mallet and you're supposed to loosen them by tapping the end of the plane with a mallet. But third, they definitely can get stuck in there if they're left in place for years (or I've seen probably decades). For me at least, the wedge is in OK shape. Same color and hue as the rest of the plane so I'm pretty sure it's original. It fits so that the tines go down to about 3/4" above the mouth, which looks like enough for a good hold. My only worry is that there are some small cracks just inboard of the tines. Nothing moves when I compress the tines, though. The bigger problem is that the iron and cap iron don't slide in and out of the throat very easily. The iron *almost* gets down to the mouth now that I've had the plane indoors for a day, but the cap iron stops moving about 1/2" beneath the top surface of the plane, i.e. it barely goes anywhere. I guess the main issue is that I don't have experience with wooden planes, so I don't know how hard I can try to force things without breaking poo poo or how much I can sand/file off the iron and cap iron so that they fit now but won't be all loose when spring/summer roll around. Thanks for the videos, I'll watch them a bit more thoroughly when I get some time.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 10, 2022 19:37
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:There's a very good chance your plane iron and cap iron do not belong to that plane. There should be enough room for it to extend like, at least a sixteenth out the mouth, and an eighth or more is common. There has to be room above the chip breaker for shavings to come out. I realize my post wasn't worded very clearly, but I was testing the iron and cap iron separately for fit to see which one is causing trouble. And it's both of them. I measured everything with dial calipers and I'm getting anywhere between 2.5" - 2.508" at the business ends of the irons and 2.492" - 2.5" at the plane mouth. So you're probably right that the irons don't quite match the plane. How much clearance do I want on either side of the irons? It looks like a bit less than an eighth per side in that Paul Sellers video, but it's hard to tell for sure. In another Wood by Wright video he mentions using files and floats to open the mouth, so it looks like that's where I'm headed next.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2022 05:03
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Yeah, a sixteenth will work, an eighth will also be ok. You can also grind down (or replace) the irons, if that would be easier. I'll shoot for 1/16 then, thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Feb 12, 2022 06:54
|
|
|
IDK where else to ask this, but I just bought an old bench grinder that says "do not use wheels rated for less than 3600 rpm" and it came with an old 7" wheel which is supposed to be kept under 3600 rpm. I'm probably good to go right? The wheel doesn't have any visible cracks and passes the ring test. I know I'm being a bit paranoid but I really, really don't wanna join the ranks of people getting themselves killed in stupid ways 
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2022 22:51
|
|
|
El Spamo posted:Is getting a new wheel difficult? Nah, I'm just usually cheap, though I'll spend money if it's worth it. What kind of wheel would you recommend? Everything at the local hardware stores is <$15 but then I see a Norton wheel is $30+
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2022 00:12
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have a veritas #4 and I've finally really gotten it tuned up and really sharp and now handplaning is a joy and it's gotten me excited about hand planes. I think on domestic hardwoods, I may start hand planing/scraping and stop sanding-it's a such a nicer, more interesting surface and not necessarily slower when you consider belt sanding through 2 grits and orbital sanding through 3. Not gonna switch to handplaning sapele though. If you're fine with another 18" plane, you could get a #6 or other manufacturers' equivalent. They're sort of an unloved bastard child so a good condition #6 can be had for the same $$$ as a crappy #7.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2022 02:51
|
|
. I definitely like the lighter weight of a wooden plane, especially at that size, and it's much less catastrophic if they get dropped. I'm really not up on old Stanleys etc-is that still a decent option or are used ones in good condition with a modern replacement iron going to run me close to what a new LN/Veritas would cost?
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 07:21 |
|
|
alnilam posted:Has anyone built Rex Kruger's minimum timber bench? I'm finally thinking of upgrading from my current "clamp stuff to a chair or sawhorse" style to a proper workbench. I like his videos so I wouldn't mind tossing him $15 for the plans. I built another bench of his, would recommend. Between the videos and the plans, everything is explained pretty clearly. Count on making a tray on the bottom for the added weight, though. The bench I made wasn't heavy enough for really going at it while planing, and it was a fundamentally heavier design (though in fairness I shortened it a bit to fit in my garage).
|
|
#
¿
Apr 6, 2024 23:29
|
|