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Hey wood experts: Let's say I live in a NYC apartment and have no tools, but I've always been interested in woodworking. Is there anything I could do that's interesting, and would build useful skills for later when I move to the suburbs and can get power tools and space to use them? I'm happy to buy a few things, especially if I could make cool stuff. It would be really cool if I could learn useful skills in my limited space that I could apply to bigger projects later. But I'm not sure where to start, or if this is just a bad idea. Any thoughts?
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Sep 20, 2008 05:11
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Chauncey posted:My brother builds guitars, both classical and electric. Here are some of his creations I'd love to see tons of porn pictures starring the classicals. I should have clarified in my post above, but my only interest in woodworking is to build acoustic guitars, mostly classical. I'd even love to see your brothers rigs, if he doesn't mind them being shown off!
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Oct 1, 2008 00:01
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Chauncey posted:I do have pics of a classical on this computer but I'm not sure if it's one he built or if it's the one he bought. I'd guess he built it, just from a couple non-traditional points like no 19th (split) fret and the curve of the fingerboard. Nice, and would always love to see more. He looks to be talented!
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Oct 9, 2008 16:43
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Just a "broad" question, if I were to build up a fairly small shop of power tools. If I was looking for the following items, by priority, is it possible to be "brand loyal," meaning could I basically find a good brand a stick to it for ALL these items, without being stupid or losing out somehow? Priority 1: Router, Table Saw, Drill Press, RO Sander P2: Jointer, Planer, Laminate Trimmer, Chop Saw, etc. If a single-brand is a reasonable way to go, what brands really fit the bill? Seems like Porter-Cable/Delta are solid? Festool are good but expensive? I'm pretty comfortable with hand-tools, less so with actually buying power tools, so thanks for any input.
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Apr 20, 2009 21:41
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ChaoticSeven posted:You'd be better served picking and choosing amongst brands. Virtually no brand does everything perfectly, they all have an all star. Awesome, this is exactly what I was wondering. Thanks! Also thanks wormil, I'll consider these points when I start my shopping process. GEMorris posted:You are a marketer's wet dream. As a marketer myself, I guess I'm self-sufficient.
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Apr 21, 2009 17:20
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Demolisher posted:Alright woodworking goons lets talk DIY CNC machines I have seen some pretty neat homemade CNC machines that are inexpensive. Anyone have any experience making these? How did it go? I was just reading a bunch about this, but in a forum for guitar builders. http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=10106&sid=aad62bf8effcc4e825580b670f8f4417 Maybe a niche, but there's a few guys who have built their own CNCs from scratch or kits. It looks insane and amazing.
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Apr 27, 2009 17:08
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Demolisher posted:Funny you should say this, I am looking into it because I am getting into luthiery. It seems like a bit of a novelty for luthiers, to me, honestly. I mean, it's only really useful for neck carving. So unless you plan to build HUNDREDS of guitars, you can just carve it yourself with a spokeshave like everyone else and save the CNC project cost and Or, frankly, just buy a pre-CNC'd neck from someone, since they can get pretty cheap these days. I dunno, not trying to deflate your enthusiasm, it's just always seemed like "too much tool" for small-production luthiers (e.g. under 20 guitars a year, maybe).
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Apr 27, 2009 21:55
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anaemic posted:Yeah I think I'm going to have to try and come up with a plan to make my own, luckily for me I might have the opportunity to have them part made on a CNC router, although the design is too complex for it all to be done automatically, at least within the limitations of the machine ill be using. I've considered it too, not sure if this link from my research help: http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/camclamps.html
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May 1, 2009 20:42
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anaemic posted:Up next week(/month) making the neck. So many questions indeed: Are you going to hand-carve that neck? Is that a plow plane in the background and if so what kind and how do you like it? Did you use a router or hand tools for your binding/purfling channels? Did you inlay the rosette yourself and if so what did you use? How'd you bend your sides (just curious)?
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Jun 12, 2009 20:07
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anaemic, that's all pretty awesome and inpiring to me, thanks. Apologies for the potentially endless questions, but what hand tool did you use to cut those binding channels? The IBEX one, by chance? Love the thinking on the restricted use of abrasives. I'm still getting practiced up on my new cabinet scraper (using it and also honing the edge!). I was also thinking of building a similar jig for rosette routing, but I'm nowhere near competent enough to actually make a full rosette. I was thinking of just sticking to a few solid wood circles, rather than buy a pre-made one. COOL!
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Jun 16, 2009 21:02
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That's the product I was thinking of when I said IBEX, thanks. Edit: Oh wait, maybe it's just very similar? http://www.metmusic.com/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=5067 Even with that cool base, is a Dremel really "good" for that job? A lot of the luthier forums seems to say that it's speed and accuracy are too ... something... for the job. I dunno, I still need to dig into my first real build here so I'm just collecting data!
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Jun 18, 2009 23:27
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ChaoticSeven posted:
WOW nice. Where does an average joe source hunks of wood like that?
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Jan 13, 2010 23:42
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Quick question: I'm not building a shop anytime soon, but when I do, is it at all possible to get a fairly nice large bandsaw, and completely skip the Table (circular) saw? This would be in addition to a very nice Router table, and a seperate smaller palm router (Bosch Colt, almost a laminate trimmer). What would I be missing out on with this plan? One primary function I need is the ability to re-saw panels from large stock pieces (e.g. book-matched for guitar back & sides), which the table saw simply can't do. Just wondering if this would cripple certain functions terribly, or if there's simple things to consider. Thanks!
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Mar 3, 2010 23:03
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benitocereno posted:The only thing that caught me off guard was that the original blade had been ground to oblivion... the last owner must have taken it to a wheel and taken too much off, because it wouldn't even get through the mouth (and the angle was completely decimated). I have a cheapo blade on there now; any recommendations for replacements? I think a Lie-Nielsen No 5 will fit and is probably my best option? Hock blades are the best for replacing Stanley and other Non-LN/LV planes. LN replacements are great for LN products, but may or may not be a great fit for anyone else.
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Mar 22, 2010 03:57
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Any recommendations on the "flat out best" RO Sander, including price in the consideration? I'm honestly looking at the Festool, but I'm not a big sanding person, I prefer planes and scrapers whenever possible. So, rationally, I can't justify this cost: http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=FS-ROT150.XX&Category_Code=FTSAN6 In particular, I don't need the super-aggressive part as much as the ability to reach as far into polish phases as possible.
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Mar 29, 2010 01:15
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Is there a non-Festool product that's like 90% as good? Again, not using this as much as, say, a furniture-builder or contractor. Or is this the kind of tool that's is just much better to save up and get the right thing, instead of dicking around with crap?
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Mar 29, 2010 02:13
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GEMorris posted:Unrelated: Holy poo poo I want this! http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/First+Look+Veritas+Skew+Block+Plane.aspx Wow thanks for this, I don't think I knew that LV made a 140 clone (if you can even call it that). Even though my favorite standard low-angle block plane is LN, I really love it when LV makes a truly better product. Actually, I have yet to try the ultra-fancy and mega-ultra-fancy LV block planes... not that I'd actually pay that much for a block plane ... right??
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Apr 27, 2010 15:36
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As a user and fan of the "scary sharp" method, I'd love to hear any more actual thoughts and experiences with either or both methods. I apply the PSA paper that https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com sells to thick float glass. Combined with a Veritas sharpening guide, this has been an accurate, convenient, and highly repeatable method. With the full five steps, I have a loving 2-degree microbevel that looks as "optically flat" as anything I have capability of determining. Oh and they work well, too. GEMorris has a good point, and as soon as I leave NYC I'll probably get a fully proper water stone setup, but I might even keep the paper and glass. As wormil pointed out, the very-rough PSA paper on thick float glass has to be the least expensive lapping surface I can think of. None of my blades ever get dull enough to touch the 40mu paper (not the same as 40 grit sandpaper, by the way), so I'm happy to go pretty rough on the paper without worry. I've lapped two vintage #4's, and could probably drop my Bedrock 5C on there... maybe I'll do that tomorrow... But the point of me rehashing most of this is to ask what EXACTLY dv6 has a problem with?
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Apr 30, 2010 18:19
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unprofessional posted:My luthier professor had somebody with one do a test cut for him, and she did an entire aztec calender in about a 2" diameter. They're pretty sweet; he was trying to convince the art department to buy one. Could you tell me a bit more about your luthier professor? I'm finishing up my first classical guitar soon and i'll be looking for help with the next one I'll start. Assuming you do guitars, as opposed to violins. Actually whatever you build, i would love some details and insight into your experience.
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Aug 7, 2010 23:44
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wormil posted:Depends on the humidity in your house. Mostly for my own clarity: What really matters is the CHANGE in humidity the wood will likely experience, right? In particular, if the wood gets extremely dry, then humidity increases dramatically, the wood is guaranteed to distory, and likely to crack (or, as noted, blow the gently caress up). This is because when dry, the cellulose contracts to be very small, but also the intercellular bonds become more rigid (glasslike). Once this happens, if the cells grow rapidly due to a tremendous humidity increase, that bond will be compromised with unpredictable results. Sound about right? Apologies if this is 101, just trying to get my own facts straight  Just as a random example, winters in a NYC apartment tend to be incredibly dry, and a hot, humid spring could TOTALLY RUIN your expensive classical guitar top.
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Sep 29, 2010 04:22
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SkunkDuster posted:Slow down there, Mr. Wizard. We just make sawdust round these parts. Tell that to the crack in my Spruce-top Eddie Hill Fleta copy. I learned this lesson the hard way.
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Sep 30, 2010 18:37
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anaemic posted:I demand pics. I'll see if I can dig the ones up I sent Mr. Hill. I was nearly in tears, but the crack itself is... unimpressive. Nearly invisible is how my wife described it. It made no audible difference. But seriously, I was emotionally shattered. Honestly, I guess I could post my first Classical Guitar build files here, if anyone's interested. It's a rough learning experience, but it's getting close to done. Until my recent move, the whole project was done on my NYC (Manhattan, not BK) apartment kitchen table. Table's dead, project still going!
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Oct 1, 2010 00:41
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anaemic posted:I'm not so interested in the damage to the guitar, just in how it looks, and if it has any interesting details. Oh, got it. Yeah, there's not much to see. It was literally a hair's width crack from the bottom of the bridge to the tailblock, didn't even really let light through. I was going to ask Eddie Hill if he'd share some technical drawings on his Fleta design, maybe I will actually do that before I start my next build(s). anaemic posted:Anyway in the interest of fair trade a snapped a pair of pictures of my newest soundboard. Looks great. Do you make your own rosette? From raw material? If so, do you have any good tutorials, tips, or training you could share? Especially any exercises, practice runs, or training that could help lead up to an actually good execution. I'd love to make my own rosette and maybe purfling design for my next build (might do two at once). But my woodworking skills are slight, and my tools are... slight-er. Still learning and buying, though, so that might be a fun thing to try out. Obvious question: What's that bracing design, is it based on something? Looks really great, sort of a modern-tweaked Hauser (??). That brace above the soundhole is huge -- is that nearly the final size?
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Oct 1, 2010 20:14
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Looks great. What's the back and side material? I'd assume IRW but it has the darkness of Brazilian. I keep forgetting to post my pics, will do soon, but it'll be a turd compared to what you've got going -- maybe in a few builds I'll get crisp like yours! On an unrelated topic, does anyone here have any thoughts on the ShopSmith Mark V? I'm a mostly hand-tool user with some but not tons of space. Seems like if I can find a cheap one on CraigsList, it's a nice way to have most of the key power tools in one spot. I'm open to any input - actual experience, anecdotes, rumors, etc.
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Nov 13, 2010 02:32
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Having JUST bought a ShopSmith Mark V, it actually seems quite applicable to your needs. They sometimes pop up on Craigslist for really good prices. As a bonus, it flips up vertically and swaps arbor for chuck to become a VERY good woodworking drill press. Also does other poo poo. Just avoid the 500 model, and look at the 510 or 520. As wormil noted, the fence is key, and the 500 has an old-school fence, to put it nicely. But take this with a grain of salt -- I'm new to owning this thing and still learning whether this is a long-term tool for me.
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Nov 17, 2010 03:34
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That's an awesome price, assuming it works. I'd totally buy it immediately if I was near my (Oregon). I never knew ShopSmith had clones, but if that's a "true" clone, meaning the SS parts fit, you could grab that and just replace the main table (or weld it as the guy suggests). Get a modern sized arbor for the table saw (e.g. 5/8") and you have a table saw, drill press, 12" disc sander, and some other poo poo. Oh yeah and a lathe I guess if you're into that. Oh and where the gently caress is "Space Coast?"
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Nov 17, 2010 08:38
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DropDeadRed posted:This just came up for $550... That's definitely a Mark V, yeah. The big difference between models 500, 510, and 520 (current) is the main table and sub-table assemblies. This looks like a 510, which is a good thing (anything after 500 is a big improvement). If it was like $400 and really works, I'd say get it, try it out, and if you hate it, just resell it. To clarify, I'm a fan, so far, of this tool. But ONLY at used-level prices. These things are like $3k+ new, which puts them up against way nicer tools. At new prices, it would have to be the perfect dream machine. For some reason, the used market, especially for the older parts, is a great deal in comparison. Also, in many cases, like the jointer and bandsaw, the design is exactly the same as it was in 1955. Edit: No clue on metal work, sorry. For some reason, the idea of cutting metal seems totally not-DIY to me. Cobalt60 fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Nov 17, 2010 |
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Nov 17, 2010 20:06
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Bad Munki posted:That'd really depend on what kind of metal and what kind of cutting. And, I guess, personality. Not sure why but the very idea of precision-cutting metal for any reason other than to destroy it seems... meant for other people. Or just not for me. No clue why.
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Nov 18, 2010 00:56
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sixide posted:I've always tried to avoid oak because it's horrible to deal with. Starting fires with drill bits and the like. I'd stick with fir/spruce/pine for whittling with a multitool. Strange -- it's a great machine, but I don't think that video really shows how cool it really could be. He should get with the Bridge City Tool guy and brainstorm some "Oh poo poo I couldn't possibly make that without that machine" ideas going. I mean, he has one, but ... wow nice job making a machine that mimics the look of through-dowel construction. 
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Dec 20, 2010 09:13
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Bad Munki posted:Someone sent me a link to a boingboing item which was itself just a youtube video. Here's that video (it's not the mortise and tenon thing). I dunno, seems nifty enough. It's really just an unpowered fixed-blade table saw. This is exactly the video I was thinking of while watching the Router Pantograph guy. The minute this video ended, I wanted to buy that thing, and build my whole shop around it. That is, until I saw the price. Fake edit: I watched this one too, and there's no doubt I have no need for squiggly loving wood but man did I NEED the tool that made it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eq8O3uUilM8 Real edit: gently caress I still want that tool. Why hasn't anyone made a DIY version yet?? Cobalt60 fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Dec 20, 2010 |
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Dec 20, 2010 19:38
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sixide posted:You make posts about "how to do it right" quite often, which prompted the snob comment. Look at this lovely post. Seriously, there are times when "what a guy says is correct" IS actually correct. You can spend minutes or years getting to the same conclusion, and it's your choice which timeframe. I have no idea why choosing the best path would be snobby, unless you believe that that only way to learn things is trial-and-error, which I'll go ahead and say sucks as advice. On topic, if you build a crappy bench you will either be hampered by it's limitations (and never know what a good bench could be doing for you), or you will be building a new bench much sooner than you'd like to. People who think a 3/4" plywood top is good enough are NOT doing the type or work I throw at my (new-ish) bench. If you really can't decide, I'd personally recommend: 1) visit friends with benches, use them, and understand your real needs, or 2) build or craigs-list-purchase a crap bench you absolutely plan to replace soon.
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Dec 29, 2010 05:56
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GEMorris posted:As for out of town shows, or bigger shows, you would be amazed at the amount of stuff that is thrown away, its just mind boggling. I've seen this in NYC at those mega-conferences. Sure, lots of stuff gets broken down and shipped for the next show, but the trash generated is truly obscene, especially when you consider the near-daily scheduling of conferences in the bigger locations. Ugh. On a brighter note, I particularly like how the class level of your booth makes the neighbor look like a junior high science fair project.
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Jan 2, 2011 19:37
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ChaoticSeven posted:Yep, just take two or more boards of the same dimensions and contrasting colors, double stick tape them together and bandsaw some curves lengthwise. Glue them back together in alternating colors, matching the cuts. Then do the same thing on the narrow dimension. It's a bit of a pain to clamp and keep everything lined up just right. If you have an extra few minutes anytime soon, I'd love even more detail. Or, is there an existing online tutorial for this? Sorry to have to ask, but even with this added insight, I just can't wrap my head around some of the logistics.
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Jan 3, 2011 18:58
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Thanks ChaoticSeven, sometimes I just need a couple interim shots to really clarify the "how" part of the process. As an afternoon challenge, I'd like you all to please convince me to fall OUT OF LOVE with this: http://portland.craigslist.org/grg/tls/2136506546.html Seriously look at that piece. I'd take those wooden guards off, too, just for the sex factor increase. As a Shopsmith owner (no bandsaw attachment), I think I could hook this up pretty easily -- maybe even make a special table for it on the SS. On old saws like this, though, what does the modern woodworker "lose out" on, compared to modern saws?
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Jan 4, 2011 00:58
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Not an Anthem posted:ed- set up a treadle on it and be roy underhill? I'm asking you to talk me OUT of it, not instill even more crazy ideas in my head.
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Jan 4, 2011 02:48
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But to clarify, I'd only get this thing if I was 100% sure I could hook up a pulley system to my Shopsmith motor. So that's a 1 1/4 HP motor with a wide range of variable speeds. Also, just joking about actually wanting a treadle-driven ... anything. I'm not committed enough to be a real masochist.  As for price, I'd look to haggle this down. $200 seems like a starting point, if the seller asks me to gently caress off I'm probably better off. The reason I probably won't actually pull the trigger is that the only "must have" function I use a bandsaw for is re-sawing fairly tall panels for guitar tops & backs. Like cutting a 1/8-inch panel that's 10-inches tall and reasonably long. Anything I'm missing on how to do a cut like this, or is my current method the best for now? Current method is just going to a bigger shop with a huge bandsaw and do the cuts there.
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Jan 4, 2011 03:48
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The Scientist posted:I'm very much not an expert, so excuse this dumb question, but: Yeah, my words are weak when it comes to describing this kind of thing. I brought back a massive 4"x12"x40 (or so) piece of pretty good rosewood from my vacation in Belize. The wood could make great guitar back and side sets, but I'd need to re-saw thin planks off the log. "How thin" depends on how clean the cut is, but the goal thickness is very thin, like 4mm range. Does that actually make sense? I'm not even good at explaining this stuff when I have my hands to waggle around ineffectually. Edit: yes, forgot to mention that bookmatched pieces is a "must" for this, in addition to cutting several panels off the larger slab. Cobalt60 fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Jan 4, 2011 |
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Jan 4, 2011 05:26
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Bad Munki posted:I just figured out how I can fit a bandsaw in my wee little garage. I'm just so excited that I had to share with someone. Now to pick out the right bandsaw (again...I was looking at a couple before, with advice thanks to you folks, but I never pulled the trigger at the time.) Buy that BEAUTIFUL MOTHERFUCKER I posted above. Wait, do I just like it because it kind of looks like a really sweet bicycle?? poo poo.
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Jan 5, 2011 07:29
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iwannabebobdylan posted:How is everyone still feeling about their shopsmiths? I don't have a table saw or lathe, and I saw the first shopsmith on my craigslist in 6 months this morning. He's asking $1200 obo, I'm thinking more like $700. I'm quite likely a "full convert," in that I didn't even know what a SS was six months ago, but now i really enjoy using mine every day. I have the 4" jointer, and a separate JET benchtop planer (with a cute table that actually sits on the SS frame, instead of having its own base). I sort of want the bandsaw or scrollsaw, maybe someday, no rush. Hate to say it, but I bought mine for $250 here in Oregon. I needed to spend about $150 in parts to get it running, including soaking the 40 years of rust and crap off some parts. I'd recommend, if you have time, getting a 500 model ($200-400), then buying the 510 model table upgrade separately ($150-$300). I guess anyone thinking of getting one should consider that, as a multi-tool, it does some functions well and others not-so-much: Drill Press: Best I've owned. One of the best I've used. It has a very long throw and the table has lost of arrangement flexibility. The fact that it can run horizontally doesn't come up much, but when it does, I can't think of ANY other tool that can bore a hole in the top of a 4 ft. long board. Table Saw: Probably the worst feature. For me, it's just fine 90% of the time. If you need to rip down full-size plywood accurately and quickly, the SS is just not the tool for you, period. For my finer work in smaller pieces of hardwood, with my table aligned, and my zero-clearance insert in, this thing does just as well as anything out there. Disc sander: It is a variable speed 12" disc sander. Seems great but I don't really use it much. There's also an add-on that's a conical version of this -- haven't used it but it looks cool. Basically lets you sort-of-joint using sandpaper instead of blades (I guess). Drum Sander: perfectly serviceable variable speed drum sander. What elevates it's usefulness is that you have a full-sized table to work on, so bigger pieces can get a quick swipe with no problem. For both sanders, I keep fine-grit paper -- never used either for "stock removal" in any capacity. Jointer (add on): really quite adequate. It's 4", but anything bigger goes to my planer anyway, or gets roughed by the Stanley #7. Certainly not competitive with the big boys, but this thing can sit attached to your SS all the time, and is basically invisible when not in use. Lathe: I never use it, but folks like it or whatever I guess. Shaper: Pretty cool, actually. I keep thinking if I were to make a ton of molding, I'd use a shaper instead of a router. Not really a big deal, but I like this attachment and wish I had more real use for it. Router: Interesting. I actually really like the overarm routing this thing does, but I only use it with very light passes of very small bits. I'm sure it's not capable of "serious" routing (right??), but I've never even had balls to try. Maybe this weekend I'll try passing some hardwood through a larger bit, just to see... The MOTHERFUCKING MITRE SLOT: Is a different loving size than any other in the world. Slightly SMALLER, too, so you can't just buy normal crap. This is very easily solved in a number of ways, including simply buying a few T-nuts and bars from SS, but good god what the gently caress why is this even true? Dust collection: So-So overall, maybe middling, even. Just something to note. There's also some other nifty uses like tool sharpening, an "actual" planer attachment that's well-reviewed, beltsander, and various other crap. I personally love having all those tools in one place, for when I need them. I end up doing a lot of work with hand tools, so it's wonderful to be able to occasionally joint a small piece without owning an entire bike-sized unit. But again, this is clearly not for everyone, and in fact is probably very dangerous for certain kinds of work! Edit: Jesus gently caress wall of text post. Guess I need to find something to do.
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Jan 8, 2011 01:15
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monkey posted:Thanks for the responses, kind of the opposite of what I expected to hear... I've not really done any woodwork since highschool, so I'm not confident I could do a decent mortise & tenon without wasting a lot of wood first. Despite how it might look, that join is simple to make, each part has only 4 saw cuts, and there's only one chiseled cut in the whole thing, and then each of the three dowels (or screws or whatever) goes through all 3 pieces, I thought it would be pretty sturdy? Haters are hating because you're proposing an overly-complicated answer to a problem that's been solved many times over. I'd say your optimal solution is a mitered mortise and tenon. Yellow bar gets two non-through mortises that meet at a right angle. Orange and brown get standard tenons, but to accommodate the fact that they "meet" inside the mortise, you add a 45 degree miter to ends. If, alternatively, you're trying to do something unique that nobody else ever really does, feel free to use Fig. 189 from the bottom of this page: http://sawdustmaking.com/woodjoints/mortisetenon.htm Again, the point is that this problem has been solved, and the solution refined thousands of times. This exact joint is very common for tables, chairs, and many other applications, "fine woodworking" and otherwise. Don't reinvent the wheel, and you won't need to learn "the hard way" why that joint is not actually strong -- or good -- at all. If you don't need any strength at all, just ignore all this and dive on in
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Jan 19, 2011 20:36
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