|
GEMorris posted:Seriously, if anyone wants to know what magazine to subscribe to, just buy the hardbound collection of woodworking magazine, it's the best info for your dollar that you can find. A friend gifted me the CD-ROM of every old Fine Woodworking magazine. I'd recommend it for sure, if only because you can search for pretty wacky stuff and generally return at least "something" from the archives. EDIT: Am I missing something major, or is this a pretty great deal on a router table setup? http://www.amazon.com/JessEm-3005-Router-Table-Top/dp/B002GJUWQA/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1295507578&sr=8-9 PLUS http://www.amazon.com/JessEm-Tool-Company-4100-Router/dp/B002GJUWPQ/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_b PLUS http://www.amazon.com/JessEm-02304-Rout-R-Lift-4-Inch-Milwaukee/dp/B00092CPUM/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1295507788&sr=8-25 OR just their new low-priced version: http://www.jessemdirect.com/Rout_R_Lift_II_p/rout-r-lift%20ii.htm?1=1&CartID=0 Kinda wish I was looking to buy... unless I'm misunderstanding these listings. Cobalt60 fucked around with this message at 08:21 on Jan 20, 2011 |
#
¿
Jan 20, 2011 08:10
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 15, 2024 21:37 |
|
|
Indeed that's what a man does. I did my first through-mortises and wedged-tenons with only a pair of chisels and a two-sided japanese saw. Did I mention it was in solid cocobolo? That last part almost ended my interest in woodworking before it even started. On the positive side, I was forced to learn to sharpen chisels properly.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2011 08:02
|
|
|
Phummus posted:I'm sort of at a crossroads here. I haven't touched any of my woodworking tools for a few years, and given the layout of the house, it doesn't seem like I'll be setting up shop in my basement. Does anyone have any good recommendations for how to set things up in a really small space? I live in a pretty cold part of the country, so if I become a garage woodworker, I'd only be able to use my stuff 7 months out of the year or so, and I worry that the excessive cold would be hard on my tools. By no means do I want to become the ShopSmith evangelist of the thread, but this basic situation is what shaped my shop. I basically have my SS, which acts as a table saw (so-so), drill press, disc sander, scroll saw, jointer, and some other minor stuff like spindle sander (lathe is a big feature I never use). Aside from that I have a Jet benchtop planer, which actually mounts onto my SS table (just so it has somewhere to go, and my main workbench, mostly geared to hand-tool use. All this takes half of my one-car garage, which also gets fairly cold. Only other point I'd throw in: a good bench and a full suite of hand tools takes up surprisingly little space, and you really can get a lot done, depending on your work. Who knows, maybe the added "connection to your work" gained from only using hand-tools will provide the enjoyment you need to get back into the work  Oh yeah, to that last point, if your work is primarily ripping full sheets of plywood/MDF/other sheet goods, NONE of this advice applies.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 24, 2011 19:15
|
|
|
TheVertigoOfBliss posted:I know nothing about woodwork but the grain structure of cast iron makes it extremely good for absorbing vibrational energy so it's actually a pretty good choice of material for this. The compromise being that granite can be made "dead flat," and will stay that way unless you completely destroy the surface, regardless of humidity, temperature, oxidizing chemicals, etc. Especially the most pervasive oxidizer, "water." Plus no chance of unrelieved internal stresses working themselves out over years, which iron can (shouldn't, but can) have. I actually wonder why more "high end" products don't use granite or synthetic stone as their surfaces for these reasons.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2011 01:16
|
|
|
truncated aardvar: I'm just going to put a personal second vote for everything GEMorris said, with a couple notes: -- Other plane to consider is a Shoulder. I love mine, and once you realize it's not just for shoulders, you can really get amazing and unique use from it. -- I haven't used the WoodRiver stuff. It looks good, seems to have thick irons, etc. But.... yeah, if you can cancel, maybe do it and just get the Lie-Neilsen or Veritas Low-angle Block plus a reasonably refurbished Stanley #5 from ebay or similar. -- GE has an deep unsatiated love for RAS's. Nobody in the retail world will ever recommend them. He's right about everything he says, but don't worry yourself if you don't actually get one, or if other folks tell you they are "dangerous." -- Read Schwarz's book in a store or library. You'll see he's a bit of a nerd, and very particular. He's also correct, IMO, but it may turn you off big time. If so it's better to do your own thing. GEMorris posted:Hand tools and sheet goods CAN be done, but that doesn't mean it should, or that you will be pleased with the results. Doubly so for hand tools on MDF. Jesus don't use handplanes on MDF ever at all not even at all ever. Good god please just don't.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 1, 2011 09:53
|
|
|
truncated aardvar posted:
MDF of any kind of plywood: I'd never do it myself, and if I saw a friend use my LN shoulder plane (precioussss) on either, I'd ban them from the shop (well, my garage, that is). Good call on the tag-team, and let me add this one point to your post (all good info). When I first got started, I bought a few Two Cherries chisels, a restored-for-work-use Stanley #4, and a two-sided Ryobi (two-sided Japanese saw). My first 2-3 projects were made using only these tools. Here's the point of the story: I spent almost as much time buying sharpening stuff, learning to sharpen well, and actually sharpening as I did cutting wood across those three. Thank god I enjoy cutting on the pull stroke -- I'd HATE to sharpen a saw, too! So here's the REAL point: Learning hand tools is great to do, and I'd recommend doing it first instead of "later." Knowing that you're capable of sizing a tenon and cheek by hand in 2 minutes actually saves time compared to setting up a table saw twice for the same operation -- more accurate, too (maybe). Having a well set-up plane that you only use right after running a side through a jointer is STILL a time-saver in the long-run. I see a lot of folks who know their power tools inside and out, to the point where I'll watch them spend 5 minutes setting up a saw to make a simple cut that would take 2 minutes with the saws GEMorris posted (finer finish with the hand saws, usually too).
|
|
#
¿
Feb 1, 2011 18:51
|
|
I was actually thinking more of ply than MDF when talking about planes. I think that's why God invented routers and smoothing bits.
|
Just got the bandsaw attachment for my ShopSmith. It seems pretty good, but needs a good cleaning, and presumably a set-up or something. Thing is, I've neer owned or maintained a bandsaw. They've been in shops I use, but I never do anything other than use them and occasionally sweep up after. In short, is there a good 101 course on what stuff like blade tensioning and drift angle is? Which blade I should use for what and what parts should be clean and squeak-free? When to use fences and what kinds are good/bad/useless? Oh and what about blade sharpness? thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Feb 2, 2011 08:50
|
|
|
Thanks for the book recommendation, I'll probably see if it's at a local Woodcraft, and pick it up. I'll... also read the actual manual, I guess. One more question. I was looking for router accuracy upgrades, especially for running thin, precise, smooth, and flat-bottomed channels in "very" hard woods like cocobolo. I think my PC 690 has some deflection/runout that causes just a tiny bit of imperfection. For stuff like a guitar bridge, imperfection isn't an option. Anyone have any tips/advice/parts to recommend? Has anyone tried this cool-looking collet/nut combo? http://www.precisebits.com/products/equipment/pc_collets_nuts.asp Caveat: Over-engineered for precision is up my alley.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2011 00:39
|
|
|
LordOfThePants posted:I also had a hell of a time setting the angle on the honing guide (something that on paper, seems rather easy). None of the suggested angles matched the factory angle on the chisels however, so I tried to match it as best as I could. Should I just bite the bullet and set it to a common angle and hog off a bunch of material to get it there? Can you clarify exactly what you have? Chisel maker, but also which exact Veritas items you have on-hand? http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=51868&cat=1,43072,43078&ap=1 Like, do you have item A and B from this link? A is what sets the angle, and doing so without that piece is much less exact. For example, I use: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=33001&cat=1,43072,43078&ap=1 And it's great and I've never felt like I needed the MK2 version, but without the "angle jig" piece, it's really not that great. Veritas also sells a simple brass angle gauge, if you just want to check what the bevel angle is easily (it's really only useful to own if you have several different tools with different angles). If you have the full set, not sure what the issue is, so feel free to post more detail or pics. There's endless debate on Scary Sharp vs. stones, best to not even open the box. Seeme like the general consensus includes: -- Stones will hone to a slightly better edge, though this is disputed (by me, for example, since I do a 5-stage process where my final grit is WAY past any stones, but most folks don't) -- Stones are more expensive up-front, but -- Stones are annoying to OCD folks like be, because they're never "really flat," and you need to occasionally re-flatten the stone on some other flat surface. -- If you're doing scary sharp anyway, why not just buy a WorkSharp (which is the argument I'm working against currently)?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 5, 2011 22:07
|
|
|
Or shave off your arm-hair. Or scrape your thumbnail (perpendicular to the nail) -- if it "catches" and pulls a shaving with zero pressure, it's pretty sharp, but if it smoothly glides, it' not so sharp.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 8, 2011 01:28
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:Schwarz was on two episodes of the Woodwrights Shop. Whoa, I saw that, but I had NO IDEA the show was still making new episodes. I assumed they were all repeats from tens of years ago. wow. Agreed that his appearance was, as you'd expect, a good learning experience. dwoloz posted:This is serious dedication to ones craft. Amazing tool chest http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9QaFTI2F9c This fucker is hosed. gently caress this. I can never decide if poo poo like this makes me "inspired," or want to cut my losses and walk away from this hobby. EDIT: Oh yeah, I remembered the other Scwhartz episode, which I loved. It totally made me want to buy the book they were discussing: http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/3000/3010.html EDIT 2: double-gently caress that tool case. Also, where can I buy the EZ-mode version of the plans? gently caress... Cobalt60 fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Feb 9, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2011 06:00
|
|
|
The Scientist posted:It said in the comments that just one plane, a small Stanley #1 (the one that was tucked into that arched cubby thing) was worth $1600 USD. Well, yeah, but the Stanley #1 is basically the absolute pinnacle of collectible iron-body planes, followed closely by the less-tiny #2. It was so short a run that it was essentially "not" produced, so today it's 100% collectible for collector's sake. Funny thing is, it's also basically a stupid design -- if you want a small-body standard-angle plane, you'd just get a good block plane. A man-sized hand doesn't even fit into the handle! It's funny to me, because you see some truly amazing plow (or "plough") planes, or stunning infill planes at around the same price and you realize how silly that really is. I've seen a fully original british infill with a high-angle blade that smooths better than a new Lie-Neilsen, and was infinitely more beautiful (I think the wood was ebony or something crazy).
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2011 07:59
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:Roy is super nice and genuine, he has an incredible passion and energy for woodworking. He also tried to flirt with my wife. ahahahahaaaa love this. Every time Roy's on our TV, my wife declares that he is a "living Muppet." I imagine she'd derive a lifetime of entertainment if he sidled up to her.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2011 19:35
|
|
|
Next version of this thread title: "Woodworking Megathread: GEMorris sets you up with a 1960s RAS"
|
|
#
¿
Feb 12, 2011 02:09
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:This is my favorite phase of any thread. Wordworking Megathread: Don't Forget To Over-Complicate Your Workbench (aka Build it RIGHT) Edit: holy poo poo I posted this BEFORE I saw "I was thinking about starting off with a piece of curved plate glass on top of 4 traffic cones... but before I begin, is there any required reading I should look into?" -- honestly can't tell if this is serious but no, this is not a good idea Cobalt60 fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Feb 12, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Feb 12, 2011 07:26
|
|
|
dwoloz posted:
AVP 3 mothership of powertools
|
|
#
¿
Feb 13, 2011 06:04
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:Bandsaws do tend to be quieter than most stationery power tools, and ripping is the most annoying thing to do with hand tools, so if I could only have one tool and noise was my biggest concern, I'd probably go bandsaw. I own a ShopSmith (multi-tool thingie with a bandsaw attachment) and it's actually not terribly loud. Like a bit louder than a Kitchen-Aid or a nice juicer. Old-school motor driving belts, instead of the modern style. I bet it would be fine to run during "daytime" hours. I'd also back GEMorris's suggestion - get into building small stuff and refine a skill set that "only hand tools can do." Wacky hand-inlay, stringing, planing, molding, poo poo even stuff like chip carving is all cool and could enhance any future work. Any of those skills will last your lifetime. Edit: (sorry for double-post)
|
|
#
¿
Feb 13, 2011 06:09
|
|
|
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burl A burl (American English) or bur or burr (British English) is a tree growth in which the grain has grown in a deformed manner. ... Insect infestation and certain types of mold infestation are the most common causes of this condition.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 16, 2011 01:49
|
|
|
Iskariot posted:Cross-post from the tools thread: http://woodgears.ca/ His Pantarouter or whatever got some play earlier in this thread too. I think he's great, and I've been looking for an excuse to use some of his patterns, but I can't help thinking back to that 80's anti-cocaine commercial: I work wood, to make tool parts, to make more woodworking tool, so can work more wood, to make more tool parts, to make more...
|
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2011 01:02
|
|
|
I think someone said it the first time it came up, but I assume "saw saw" is a product of someone only ever hearing the term. If you're totally illiterate, it's not like the word "Sawz all" is somehow better than "Saw Saw." Add in accents and this seems totally reasonable.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 23, 2011 01:04
|
|
|
dyne posted:Aren't you worried about the wood expanding and breaking the joints/rippling? Didn't want to say it, but that was my first thought. Is there any expansion accommodation built into that somehow? I can't imagine where it would be, but let us know how you're thinking that top slab will do over the seasonal cycles.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2011 01:16
|
|
|
I got a few Gramercy brand rasps from their store in NY. http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=GT-CMRASP.XX&Category_Code=TRR If I recall they get them made in S.E. Asia or something, but keep their producers to high standards, and inspect each item themselves. Or something. I like them, and they stay clean, I think because they're made of stainless steel.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 17, 2011 04:21
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:That's a 12/14, so you can run 14" blades in it if you want. Finding one of those with a single phase motor is pretty rare. They are much heavier than unisaws. It looks like it also has a mounting plate on the left for a Brett-Guard, which is by far my preferred type of table saw guard. And... I guess, bring a good straight-edge, right? A table like that isn't easily repaired if it's somehow warped.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 18, 2011 19:36
|
|
|
I'll bite. How are those made? Inlay or solid glue-up then turn? If inlay... HOW??
|
|
#
¿
Mar 21, 2011 05:31
|
|
|
dja98 posted:I'm working on a pair of nightstands for my bedroom (though with my work schedule, these are likely to be finished when I retire Since you asked, here's my initial thoughts: -- Why the dowels in the top panels? That will actually be hell to drill and align unless you plan to surface plane the final piece after glue-up. I'd recommend just glue, nothing else, just make sure your facing edges are perfectly planed. The glue joint is PLENTY strong in the configuration you show. Actually, it'd be perfectly strong without the breadboard ends. -- Will your tenons "meet up" inside the leg? If so, plan whether you want to miter their ends to meet perfectly, or if one is shorter than the other. -- Top-to-apron always leaves me feeling like there must be a better way. But at the end of the day, it's pretty much figure-8's or turnsquares. Your design looks perfectly compatible with 8's -- you know how they work, right? You just use a Frostner bit on top of the apron to make a very shallow slot for the big circle, so it's top is flush with the top of the skirt. Turnsquares are considerably more work. -- Will your leg taper go the whole length, or start just under the apron? I'd recommend the latter, unless you really want a specific effect. Jus checking. -- Again on the "why dowels" tip, but why "pin" the breadboards? Actually, why dovetail slot them, too? If you did a normal straight-side rebate, you could stop it (and the tenon) short of the side of the board, too, giving a cleaner look. -- You may want to treat the table edge, either decoratively or whatever fits your fancy, even if it's just a tiny round-over. Don't leave it perfectly square like it is in your mock-up -- that sharp edge will be ruined and irreparable in days.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 28, 2011 09:21
|
|
|
dja98 posted:I know I could just glue-up the entire top and everything would be fine. I'm trying to use the opportunity to learn some new techniques. I may still replace the dowel idea with some router slot-cutter holes for biscuits (Bill Hylton shows this in his router book). If you're not married to it, dump the dowels. I'd honestly say that "really good technique" would actually lead to a perfectly flush (or, if you want to be fancy, a "spring joint-ed") glue-only joint. Stuff like biscuits and their brethren are, to me, an excuse for sloppy joinery technique, as opposed to a generally good idea. Just my POV, though. dja98 posted:Under the apron - definitely, I don't want to make angled joints on this project if I can help it. whew, that would be SO much work for so little gain dja98 posted:Again, this is just an opportunity to practice a technique I haven't used before. A pinned dovetail slot with no glue for a breadboard can handle any lateral expansion by the center boards. On this small top, it doesn't really matter, but I wanted to give it a try Are you familiar with drawboring? It's a very classic technique for breadboards, and might be classier than straight dowels. Again, I'd personally take a close look at using straight tenon(s) rather than the sliding dovetail, but of course do what you enjoy -- probably no bid deal at the end of the day. Looks good, and I bet if you execute cleanly these could really be "for life" pieces! PS: nope, I'm fully 'merican, just moved out to the west coast here in Oregon. I just like "rebate" better than "rabbit." You know, using words that actually mean stuff to people, etc.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 28, 2011 21:20
|
|
|
Carta posted:Any idea on the dimensions on those legs? They have to be at least 6x6. It's "for his daughter" so they might be 4x4. That thing's both beefcake and cute at the same time -- like a mini-version of his most recent bench project, right?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 31, 2011 01:44
|
|
|
I'm probably buying the new Veritas gang saw: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=62708&c= jk lol jk
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2011 18:02
|
|
|
The Scientist posted:MAN that is arbitrary. I thought so at first, but I wasn't aware of their tradition of April 1 jokes until this year. I actually think they're pretty clever and remarkably well assembled little gags. Almost all of them are just barely not-believable, to the point where while reading, you could almost convince youself that someone out there would really buy this crazy thing. Oh, looks like the "story tape" item is actually for sale in real life, which is extra funny.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2011 00:35
|
|
|
Personally, if I knew I was going to replace the fence, I'd look for a better deal. This assumes your area has a high enough CL post rate to "keep looking."
|
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2011 00:00
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Ah, okay. So what sort of ratio should I be using of shellac to alcohol? Also, would some other sort of alcohol work, or perhaps something like mineral oil? Basically, anything that will put shellac into solution? Best advice is to read a proper guide. "Real" french polishing is a pretty specific process -- more so than just applying layers of shellac. Also, you should DEFINITELY mix your own from good flake and good, clean alcohol. Pre-made stuff will make you hate this process. The ratio you're asking about is what's called the "pound" of the "cut." A one-pound-cut is made by dissolving a pound of shellac into one gallon of alcohol. The alcohol used is pretty important, but your standard denatured should be fine. Next step up, and a bit safer, is to use straight Everclear. If you read guides, you'll see many people use a tiny bit of oil on the muneca. The FP expert I've talked to doesn't use any oil at all. In short, start with a good quality flake, make a single batch of high-pound cut, and use smaller jars or squeeze bottles for the thinner cuts (the ones you'll actually use). Make a good muneca, learn to use it in your application. Apply several body coats (thicker cut), sand a tiny bit, then polish with thinner coats with occasional sanding. The result will be a glass-like finish that doesn't have that "inch-thick" plastic-y look of a heavy-handed polymer coat. Plus, this is a really SAFE way to get a pro finish -- the components are all actually food-safe (shellac is used to coat Skittles). Oh... and step Zero: If this is a porus hardwood like rosewood, you'll want to pore-fill first. mcrandello posted:Basically you shred up a t-shirt or old diaper and... Rule #1 of french polishing: Never polish with a used diaper.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2011 00:08
|
|
|
I just bought a purpose-made hide glue heating pot, along with some hide glue (crystals? Flakes?) off CG for a really good price. I can post a trip report from my tests using this mess if anyone's interested.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2011 22:23
|
|
|
I'm no expert of food-safe stuff, but did you read up on that finishing technique? My understanding was that it's bad to apply oils that could go rancid.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2011 19:32
|
|
|
MarshallX posted:Just bought my first piece of African Mahogany! It's not genuine but I'm excited nonetheless - been using domestic wood up until now. Chiming in on the "You'll love it" train. It works beautifully, and almost any direction of cut leaves fun color and luminosity contrasts. Ribbons, flecks, whatever, I think it all looks good. If you care, here's a gallery of a table i built out of one big log of African Mahogany: http://gallery.me.com/cobalt60#100206&bgcolor=black&view=grid
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2011 18:59
|
|
|
MarshallX posted:Very nice table, thanks for sharing. Thanks! I hate to say, but I think I just got them at WoodCraft (I don't hate the place, but definitely don't love it). I'm sure they'd be available at a specialty fasteners store, too. I really like the feature, because even some seasoned woodworkers will wonder where the metal bits are. It has an old-style look, but the result is actually quick to adjust or disassemble, while still being rock-solid when tightened down. Which reminds me, with the season change, I might go under there and loosen/re-tighten those squares, just to be sure they're not torqued somehow. stubblyhead posted:Wow, that is loving beautiful. What did you use to do the tapers on the leg? Thanks very much. I actually made a very simple (but large) plywood jig, and ripped the tapers on the table saw. I think I followed with a pass on the jointer to clean them up. If I do it again, I'd love to attempt tapering on a jointer, which seems cool, never tried it. I'm realizing I don't actually have "finished" pictures. After a light oil coat, I let it dry for a couple weeks, then did a hand-applied shellac finish. Sort of a lazy french polish. I think it really lets it shine through most viewing angles, without looking "plastic." I'll see if I can take some shots soon and post them too. In more exciting news, I think this guitar is finally, basically, roughly complete. I mean, I still need to do a final-pass set-up on it, but it's actually playable right now. I'll nervously wait to see if it actually sounds good, once it acclimates to the tension, and these new strings break in. http://gallery.me.com/cobalt60/100159/IMG_0572_2/web.jpg?ver=13043167960001 http://gallery.me.com/cobalt60/100159/IMG_0576_2/web.jpg?ver=13043167970001
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2011 18:17
|
|
|
stubblyhead posted:Got any pictures of the jig? Probably not, but I should emphasize "simple as hell." It was made from three plywood scraps -- one base, one that set the angle (screwed to the base), and one small scrap that tailed the piece, and ran through the blade. With that, one hand pushed the jig and piece through the blade, and the other lightly kept it against the fence. It looked scrappy and maybe even unsafe, but it was fine for the handful of cuts it was made for.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2011 00:59
|
|
|
Blistex posted:My favourite board. That grain and 3D wavy effect just make me crazy. You keep referring to this floor as Oak, but this looks a lot like hard maple to me. Maybe it's the light or angle, but there doesn't seem to be the typical oak-y pore structure.
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2011 00:13
|
|
|
Elston Gunn posted:How badly do you want the mitered corners? Your table saw would probably be the best tool for cutting them. I've tried them before when making a box and had a difficult time getting them lined up perfectly, and it wasn't very strong, even with biscuits. Are you going to be able to see the inside of the box? If not you could assemble it with kreg screws, which is a nice thing to own anyway. Also, are you talking about using panels made from glued-up boards or plywood? Yeah, these questions would help. If you plan to use only four big boards, I'd say the only good way is something like a lock-miter joint. I'm not sure if there's any way other than a router table to make these, though. If multiple pieces per panel, you could use your pick of box joint, then overlay the mitered pieces, like they were just really simple modling. Any way you go, the precision of those miters is going to be critical, so take that into consideration (e.g. read stuff and run tests if you don't know how to ensure your cuts will fit tightly).
|
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2011 21:18
|
|
|
Isaac Asimov posted:I have been having a hell of a time cutting these dovetails. My biggest problem is that I have no way of securing anything so that it won't move, so I guess I need some kind of work table with a heavy rear end vice grip? I keep trying to look at this project as a learning experience, but I am not happy that I won't be able to finish it before my girlfriend gets home from vacation :/ How exactly are you sawing now? I'm surprised you're able to get the accuracy you've got if you're sort of holding with one hand, sawing the other. It will definitely be faster and much safer if you have something that confidently holds your workpiece still while you saw. Most people's first vice will be the kind that mounts on to a bench-top with a few screws. If you have a table that can accommodate, that should be a great start, and you can use it for other stuff too. A reasonable starter should pop up on CraigsList for $20 or so.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 21, 2011 17:19
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 15, 2024 21:37 |
|
|
kaiger posted:What's the general consensus on Shopsmith? Are they crappy versions of all the tools they replace or are they generally ok for hobbyists? I made a pretty in-depth post about mine way earlier in the thread. In short: -- They are truly great if your space is limited. Like, there's nothing competitive in this class. -- The table saw is often reviewed poorly. IMO, if set up really well, it's really great, but ONLY for smaller pieces. If you intend to rip full-size sheet goods, this is NOT the right tool. I'd say it's actually dangerous for that purpose, and it catches a ton of poo poo for that. -- The other big minus for the Tablesaw function is that the table tilts, not the arbor. This means a bit more setup for stuff like compound miters, and again, big pieces are simply a bad idea. -- The add-ons really make the machine. The bandsaw is really great, for a small-size bandsaw. The jointer is surprisingly useful -- it's 4 inches so it won't face-joint big boards, but once again it's basically ideal for smaller workpieces. Scrollsaw is pretty cool. The 12" planer is one of the best out there, but I have the stand-alone so I can't speak to the rail-mount version. -- The price difference you see is likely due to the versions. The 500 is basically the same model from the 60's, has a tiny table and fewer upgrade options. I'd recommend only buying a 510 or 520, but there's a price step-up. For reference I paid $250 for a 500, and $500 for a 510 with bandsaw, planer, jointer, and other attachments (!). -- It's like a lego or erector set, meaning you can really tweak it to your needs. Lots of the SS community do strange and wonderful mods. Here's a post on some of the DIY crap I've thrown at mine, mostly in search of ultimate accuracy and repeatability: http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=7948 In summary, though, if the ONLY tool you need is a tablesaw, get a proper tool, like a Unisaw or something. If you want flexibility and the options of a big-boy shop in a tiny space, this thing is perfect. If you intend to always work with large sheet goods, don't even consider SS.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 1, 2011 19:16
|
|