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Cobalt60
Jun 1, 2006
Sounds like you're getting there, but to repeat:
A long 45 degree end-grain joint
with no ww experience
with limited hand tools, no power tools, no specialized joining setup
will not happen.

Do the easy thing. Remember that you don't build a table to hold the stuff it'll hold most of the time, but rather to withstand the oddball extreme forces it gets occasionally.

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Cobalt60
Jun 1, 2006

keep it down up there! posted:

A longs way back this was posted here, but I figured I'd get a fresh perspective.

My Mother wants me to build this table for her. My plan is to grab some spruce 4x4s and plane them square myself. Stain it then apply some sort of finish, probably something rather durable as spruce isn't very hard itself.

There was talk before about improving the design and I was curious what people thought before I get started. Specifically the way the table top attaches to the legs seems to be the main issue.

http://builditcraftitloveit.com/knockoff-west-elm-emmerson-dining-table/



Thoughts?


Someone might claim movement issues thinking that the top is fully fixed to the perpendicular-grained flats on top of each leg. But it's a knock-down design, so that's not the case, I assume. Not sure how it's fixed, though -- big figure-8s?


More importantly, LOL at calling that a "knock-down." Like, sure, let's casually separate these hundred pound components and cart them around, no worries.

Cobalt60
Jun 1, 2006

canyoneer posted:

Defeated, I moved onto the upper piece, and started out right by drilling the 3.5 inch hole saw holes. Turns out the hole fits the cup really well at the lower base. I ended up using that as the top piece, keeping the dumb hole bottom piece (where the cups couldn't go down more than 1/4 inch), and then cut some posts to space the top and bottom pieces. It works OK, but it looks a little like Homer's spice rack now.




gently caress your stupid story, did you make this immaculate replica or not??

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