South America & Central America Megathread: Share or take the wealth.

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Ask/Tell > Tourism & Travel > South America & Central America Megathread: Share or take the wealth.

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Hey yo I'm going to be Salvador, Brazil the entire month of August. What should I be looking to do on my free time? Guides seem to skim over the state of Bahia or give conflicting information ("this attractions sucks" vs "no that attraction is awesome").
I will be volunteering, but as I understand I will have my weekends free (possibly 3 day ones). Where is a recommended short journey?

DustingDuvet I like to think of myself as an open-minded, semi-traveled person and have little qualms about most nations. But I can't help but think Colombia still as having an absurd kidnapping and crime rate. What are some of your veteran traveler safety tips and guidelines?

CatchrNdRy fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Jun 24, 2008

# ¿ Jun 24, 2008 00:59

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# ¿ May 2, 2024 08:21

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

DustingDuvet posted:

Colombia is just misunderstood to be honest. As a foreigner, unless you are a a rich businessman, a politician, or work for an oil company, than Colombia is one of the safest countries for the day to day life of a foreigner. Colombians are the friendliest bunch of people i have met and go out of their way to help people. For instance, i have had go completely out of their way to walk me to a destination i am looking for, have had many Colombians that i met act as a guide for their cities and would not let me pay for anything, etc. I really notice the differences now that I am in Peru.

As for a few tips besides the ones that are common sense (dont walk down a dark alley at night, etc.):

If you somehow need to walk a few blocks at night in a dangerous place, run instead of walk.

Bring a bunch of credit cards (3-5) and keep one in your wallet with the rest hidden throughout your belongings. Also hide some cash in different parts of your belongings too.

If you need to pull out a map or feel lost, find a quiet place maybe inside a store or right outside against the opposite side of the wall to do it.

If you find yourself at a shady intersection at night, watch your back as someone can easily come up from behind to attack or mug you.

In shadier area, it helps to look confident by walking somewhat fast and not looking over your shoulder every second.

Some cities like Bogota are known for dangerous taxi drivers who will rob you so you should either call a friend or pretend to call someone and say something like �I just got into a taxi am going to 100 west drive. The taxi number is 13jh3 and the drivers name is juan carlos�. This information is always available in the taxi and will make the driver less likely to harm you.

When you are in a crowded enough place you should keep your thumbs in your pockets to protect your wallet.

Thanks for the advice, that is a pretty clever thing with the taxi. Back in crime ridden 80s NYC, my mom used to yell "goodbye" to a fake relative whenever that taxi would take us to the airport. Are Peruvians somewhat more closed off than most South Americans? How would you rank openness in the all places you've been?

# ¿ Jun 25, 2008 01:39

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

DustingDuvet posted:

I see that nobody has answered your question. I am going to Salvador tomorrow for the next week so i�ll give you some advice when I get back to Rio.

Does anyone know of a good hostel in Salvador?

I would be ever so grateful you walking travel-guide you.
From readings it appears that Morro de S�o Paulo, Praia Do Forte and Itaparica are the near by highly recommended nearby spots. I think the first is party and the other two are kick back.

# ¿ Jul 14, 2008 22:06

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

These pictures are great, thanks for sharing. What would you say the Peruvian locals were like? I keep hearing how aloof they are as compared to most of South America.

# ¿ Jul 21, 2008 06:33

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

roflcopter thief posted:

Any questions about Brazil? I am currently living in Fortaleza, Ceara. I have been to Manaus/Amazonas, Florianopolis, Curitiba, and Rio as well.

I am eagerly awaiting DustingDuvet's specific trip report from Salvador, but I would settle for general advice interacting with Brazilians as an American. What are some common social mistakes? I have some rudimentary Portuguese, so I definitely will attempt to speak. I also am Asian and people abroad always seemed stunned that I could be both. But of course Brazil is very diverse.

# ¿ Jul 24, 2008 23:12

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

DustingDuvet posted:

I apologize for taking so much time to get back to you about Salvador. I just had a ton of fun my last weeks in Brazil and couldn't be bothered to spend any more time on the internet than needed.

On my flight from Rio to Salvador I met a few kind businessmen who wrote every possible tourist attraction in or around Salvador. They even drove me from the airport to my hostel which was far. I'll say it now; I encountered more friendly people in Salvador then the others places I visited (not many). But anyways, I still have the napkin though its all ripped and difficult to read. But everything I am going to tell you is from my experiences and from the napkin.

As a tourist, you will either want to stay in Barra (pronounced Baja) or Pelourinho. Baja is the wealthy area where most foreigners stay. Pelourinho is the historic center. I stayed in both areas. Barra was nice because its more relaxed and safe, well kept, has great restaurants, and some decent bars and clubs. Pelourinho was also nice because its so lively. One night I walked out of my hostel on a tuesday and did not return until much later because I found a free jazz concert, some strange yet entertaining live music in the center, and a samba band marching through the streets. Its a bit dodgy at night though.

The following are some areas of interest to visit.

-Pelourinho, Mercado Modelo (go down to the basement where they stored the slaves), Afro Brazilian museum, Folkloric ballet show at night
-Cidade Baixa (the Lower City)
-Barra & Farol da Barra
-Campo Grande
-Bonfin
-"Wet'n' Wild" Water Park

-Ribiero: Ribeira has a long stretch of beach and barracas (simple little bars and restaurants). Its perfect for a long walk around the neighborhood and a visit to one of the famous ice cream parlors with lots of unique flavors.

Outside of Salvador you have:

-Morro De Sao Paulo
-Parai do Forte
-Itaparica
-Chapada Diamintina
-Jacobina

One of my favorite days was when I walked away from Pelorinho towards the downtown area and just explored. It felt more "authentic" than any other area I visited in Salvador because normal people were going about their daily business. I got a far better feel for Salvador just walking around and getting lost than the other places.

For hostels, the only place I would absolutely reccomend you stay is
http://www.barraguesthouse.com/ The hostel has a small and friendly atmosphere with a helpful owner. You need to book in advance as its always full. I could tell you the other hostels I stayed but they were nothing special and I am sure you could find ones yourself that are just as good.

As for nightlife, either party in an expensive club (bring ID, shoes, long pants) or in Pelourinho.

P.S. That really good song you will hear on the radio all the time is called Mina Do Condominio by Seu Jorge...i have been listening to it non stop.

Hey I just got back from a month of voluntourism in Salvador. Your pictures tell give a good synopsis of the feel of the city. Our house was in Graca which is right next to Farol da Barra area and Campo Grande. I was working at a school and orphanage quite far away from that area. The kids in school represent the area well, friendly as hell, emotional, respectful but unable to focus or seemingly be serious.

A lot of Afro-Brazilians (call them Negros not blacks, the offensiveness is backswards in South America) won't go to the Pelo or Mercardo Modelo due to the history of torture and punishment by the Portugusese. The basement of the Mercado Modelo just felt creepy and oppressive. They like to boast about how their is no racism, but go to any middle class or upper middle class restaurant or shop and its all light skinned Brazilians.

Most of the other volunteers were college age girls, so I hanging out I got to see the aggressive and unpleasant side of the Bahian men. Lots of hustlers out there and plenty of girls willing to fall for it. I'm Asian so I got a million queries about the Olympics and yelling "ARRIGATO!"

Morro is insane. I vomited on the catamaran ride back 5 times. The song that never stopped playing (besides Fergie) Rap De Armas. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlJ2AZxIOiM
Its about having more guns than the police.

Other than Tuesday and the weekends the Pelourinho could get very sketchy. I can't describe it, you just get a vibe that things aren't quite right and not to walk down certain alleys. Lots of cracked out kids. And then 100s of police won't do anything outside their line of sight. DustingDuvet, what days were you there? I was in country Aug 2-Sep 2. I wonder if we possibly crossed paths one Tuesday. Where did you go in the Pelourinho?
Did you eat the acaraje?

CatchrNdRy fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Sep 5, 2008

# ¿ Sep 5, 2008 00:16

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Subotai posted:

After reading a bunch of things about the crime in Brazil (especially Sao Paulo), it sounds like you will be robbed and kidnapped the moment you set foot in the city. Is the crime really that bad? Is it fairly safe for tourists or tour groups?

I missed my flight from Sao Paulo to Houston, so I had to spend the day in Sao Paulo. I was so excited, as I had been in the north the entire time. However, the hotel was near GRU airport seemingly in the middle of nowhere. I thought I would link up with some people I met at the lobby bar, but that didn't work out. I asked the clerk if anything was nearby and he said no, just the mall 20 minutes away. So I just sort of sat around from 10AM-5PM torturing myself wondering if I should venture out (out of money, only had an American Express which is nigh worthless in Brazil).

I probably should have worked something out with my credit card. I am totally kicking myself days later for just hanging out in the hotel.

Was venturing out to Sao Paulo with no knowledge of where to go, no cash, an early evening international flight, and the appearance of a tourist the wrong idea?

AAAAGGGH

# ¿ Sep 5, 2008 00:29

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

DustingDuvet posted:

It sounds like you had a really enjoyable experience in Salvador and got to know the people pretty well.

I would disagree and say that racism is just different in Brazil in general and really hard to explain. In Posto 9 in Ipanema you would only see white people. But in almost any club and during the day you would see a mix up white, black, and mixed friends and couples, much moreso than in the US or any other country I have visited. But then some black people talk about other black people negatively even though they are black themselves, but maybe with a bit lighter skin . Either way, its all really confusing.

I am glad to know I was not the only one who vomited on the way back from Morro De Sao Paulo. The way there was smooth sailing but I had just eaten one of those greasy cheese empanadas and the sea was the most violent I ever encountered on my limited sea experience. Those few hours were torture.

Pelourinho was great and I agree it was a bit sketchy. I remember in the afternoon I started walking downhill towards all of the hardware stores and a guy grabbed my arm to tell me that I ought not go that way since its really dangerous. But I think locals always tend to exaggerate a bit about danger. I mean, a day earlier I wandered down that same way and did not feel threatened. But the nights when the streets were empty I felt vulnerable and would stop myself from wandering to far away. So I basically wandered all around Pelourinho for a few days and also opposite the opposite direction of the elevator, all the way downtown.

I was in Brazil from July 29-August 4. I believe I did try the acaraje from that old woman in Morro De Sao Paulo but I did not find it to appetizing and the dend� is supposed to cause bad stomach aches.

You should have gone out in Sao Paulo as its a really nice city. I found their subway system efficient and safe to use, often coming back alone late at night. Its a neat city with a lot to see.

AHHH I already feel so much remorse for not venturing out in Sao Paulo. The pain of regret is not lessening with time. I can't describe how excited I was to get a a 24 hr layover there, only then to discover how far away my hotel was from anything but GRU.

My other major regret was not seeing a local soccer match. The nearby stadium (the one by the nice park with the lake) had partially collapsed last year so the closest stadium was 1.5 to 4 hours away, depending on who you asked.

I don't regret not eat any Bahia-specific food. Other than street stands it was expensive and everyone who tried it had some issues with it. At our house we had a staff prepare a variety of fresh meals with only sometimes with dende oil. I'm glad you confirmed the lack of charm to the acaraje. We at least went to some churiscarias in Itapua.

I wasn't sick at all on the way to Morro. I guess that was probably the same for you. I laughed at everyone for taking Dramamine. However, having only a mild hangover was enough to start me yakking on the way back. I was hanging out in the aft of the ship trying to get fresh air at suggestion of the steward. There was a constant stream of people running to vomit over the side. I did see whales and flying fish while back there, so it was a plus.

I agree the racial dynamics are complicated and I can't begin to understand them. They probably involve some cultural component that we can't discern just yet, and isn't so "black and white".

hey DustingDuvet, whats your deal anyway? Are you just taking a year off and traveling all over South America? Too bad you didn't stay till the 5th for Tuesday night Pelo. We probably could have run into each other. You knew it was going to be a sketchy night when two crack kids try to grab girls hands with that crosseyed look. Where is the unsafest (crime wise) place you have been to in South America?

CatchrNdRy fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Sep 9, 2008

# ¿ Sep 8, 2008 23:18

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Hey Dusting nice to see you are still answering questions.
I am thinking of going to Ecuador for a month (volun-tourism again), but since I am a cubicle stiff who has some tricky work situations to navigate right now, I probably won't be able to start solidly booking till maybe 2-3 weeks before I leave.

A cursory search says Ecuador is relatively cheap to fly to (600ish especially compared to 1800 i paid for Brazil last summer), can I generally expect those prices? Do you know anything about refundable international tickets?

Does the atmosphere (holidays, number of foreigners, stores closed for inexplicable reasons, population going on vacation) vary in Ecuador much from say late Oct to mid Dec?

How would you compare Ecuador to Peru (my second choice, do they treat Asians sort of differently given their history)?

CatchrNdRy fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Oct 9, 2009

# ¿ Oct 9, 2009 20:55

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

DustingDuvet posted:

Its good to see you still around. It must be 2 years now since we both went to Salvador! Tickets to Lima Peru are almost always going to be cheaper than tickets to Quito Ecuador. I think flights from Ecuador generally run at $400-$700 depending on when and where you are flying from. Flights to Peu run at around $250-$450 I think. With that that, I would just end up going to whichever place is cheaper for when I was going to book the flights.

I have never been to either country during those times. During the times I have been in South America where there is a public holiday or festival it just meant either everything was closed that one day or that everyone went wild out on the streets that one day. Either way it can be a lot of fun. I would reccomend checking out the holidays going on around those times and seeing if any interest you. For instance, the Day of the Dead is around that time and I am pretty sure that could make for a great experience.

http://www.amautaspanish.com/amautaspanish/english/peru/fiestas.asp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Public_holidays_in_Peru
http://www.ecuadorexplorer.com/html/holidays.html

Their is a rather large Asian population is Peru, especially in the big cities. I think people would probably be more educated because of that. I remember in Ecuador that if you looked Asian they would call the person a China, just as they would call a black person a negro. It's not meant as a bad word or anything. But if you are going to be offended if someone calls you China then Peru might be a better choice for you.

http://www.everyculture.com/South-America/Asians-in-South-America.html

Both Ecuador and Peru seemed not all that different. Both countries have the jungle, the Andes mountains, nice beach towns, ruins, decent cities, big indigenous markets, good sea food, similar indigenous cultures, good hiking, etc. Price wise they are both very similar and both countries receive a lot of tourists. If you want to do a lot of traveling Ecuador might be better because its such a small country that nothing is to far away. One possible deciding factor is that Peru has the Machu Picchu while Ecuador has the Galapagos islands.

It was actually only a little over a year ago! Thanks for the links they were informative; I think I'm going to lean toward Ecuador if my work situation clears up. Founders Day looks great. It seems its a bit easier to get around in, and I like the idea of being able to do a lot in a smaller country. Funny racial terms from foreigners (well non-North Americans) never bother me, I just don't want to be associated with seizing political power. I got most crap China itself for having a Joe Middle America accent.

# ¿ Oct 13, 2009 22:58

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Any of ya'll be in Ecuador between Thanksgiving (the American one) and just before Christmas?

# ¿ Nov 3, 2009 21:10

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

kalicki posted:

I liked Peru way more than I did Ecuador. Probably more touristy, but just way more interesting things there.

hmm maybe i should have considered that statement more carefully. i haven't been here that long and have till before Christmas. It's alright in Quito, but I can help but compare it to Salvador, brazil, which is a hard comparison for any place. i haven't gone on any day trips and done anything except work at the volunteer center and chill with my host family and drink with the other dumbass americans.

can someone give a run down on Banos again, i'd search but internet is cruddy

no goons round South Quito?

# ¿ Dec 2, 2009 01:04

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

DustingDuvet posted:

Its been about 3 years since I was last in Ecuador. I liked Quito a lot but I remember it could get a bit boring if you don't know what to do. I would suggest some activities like visiting the Women's or Men's prison, wandering around the old city, the teleferico, any of the big parks on a sunday,visiting some of the markets, making sure you try every fruit juice, etc. I also really enjoyed the love music (andes music, salsa, etc.)

There are also some really great restaurants, both fancy and not. The Hilton has an awesome buffet with lots of traditional Ecadorian food. There's an amazing burger place called G-Spot that makes the best cheesesteaks.

As far as Banos goes, its great for adventure activities and about 3-4 hours by bus from Quito. There is great hiking to some beautiful water falls, mountain biking 60km to the jungle, white water rafting, ATVs for rent, Bungee jumping, rapelling down water falls, etc.

Its known for its volcano and hot springs which are nice, but really nothing special. I stayed at Plantas y Blanco but really any place is decent.

Other day/weekend trip possibilities that are no more than 1-3 hours from Quito that I would reccomend are:

-Mindo (cloudforest)
-Otavalo (market)
-Papallacta (hot springs)

yeah me and another american I work with are probably going to Banos this weekend. I haven't heard of Papallacta I'll consider it, thanks,for the suggestion. I was more complaining about the day-to-day unremarkablness of south Quito. Which I realize is the worst Quito and why I chose to volunteer here in the first place. I know there are a ton of day trip type things. Today is Quito Day, so I hope the party in Centro Historic turns out well.

# ¿ Dec 4, 2009 17:15

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

DustingDuvet posted:

I just booked a one way ticket to Quito, Ecuador. I will make it down to Colombia and if/when I am ready to leave I will fly to Panama and travel in Central America. I am super excited right now!

if you wanna volunteer for a bit Quito I can give you contacts on where I was. Other than its still probably as inexpensive as when you went a few years ago.

# ¿ Jan 13, 2010 02:00

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Man A posted:

I've been in the planning stages of a South American trip for the last couple months. I've read this thread, Wikitravel, and all sorts of other forums for information and I have an idea of what I plan on doing. I still have a bunch of questions if anyone wants to help me out.

I'm 22 years old, will have a degree in Marketing/Spanish, and I would say I am pretty much fluent. I have all of June and July to travel and will have about $3000 saved up. My plan so far is to fly into Medellin, Colombia, stay at a hostel or hostels for a week, and then fly out to possibly Quito. From there I'd want to somehow hit up Banos, Cuenca, and fly to the Galapagos. I want to eventually get to Peru to see Lima, Cuzco, and the oasis city in the desert. I don't think I will have the money to see both Machu Picchu and the Galapagos, but I might book an Inca Trail reservation if I can find one under $500. At some point I want to cross over into Bolivia and live like a king, see the salt flats, Lake Titicaca, the Amazon, and pretty much anything else I can do there. The big overarching things I want to do here are see the Amazon and the Andes and eat terrific local food. I chose these countries because they would be the least expensive but also have great things to see and do. It will also be a great help to my Spanish skills. I would be open to other ideas and other countries though, specifically Chile and Argentina

The big thing my family worries about is safety. I'm traveling solo and my family is scared shitless of me being in Colombia alone. They are worried that I will not be able to get a hold of anyone if something happens and that I make an obvious "target" at about 6-4, 280 lbs. They used to work in El Salvador and Dominican Republic back in the 90s and it seems they think the rest of the Spanish speaking world will be just like those places. I know that safety has improved but I can't help but be a little nervous. I would mainly limit my time in Colombia so that my mother can sleep easier, but I am more excited for Ecuador/Peru anyway. I'm really only flying in there because of the low price. When people travel solo, is it easy to hook up with other travelers in hostels to go out with? I'd rather have a group of people than go it alone. I also plan on Couchsurfing. I'll have two months and about $2500 for two months after plane tickets so let me know all of your "can't miss" spots.

How do my ideas sound? How structured should I make my trip? What places in those countries should I make sure not to miss? Will I be able to travel by bus safely in these places? If I have a big backpack will I be a "target"?

Rather than go to Banos, you should try Mindo. Its way cheaper and there is probably just as much outdoors activities (10-13 ziplines for $10). On the way back you can hit up the Mitad Del Mundo too, just ask the bus driver's assistant when you should get out.

Man A on a totally unrelated note, I happened to read your college football thread, and that other college football Goon wanted to talk to you in his thread. look at me, im a D1 football messenger.
http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3228423&pagenumber=8#lastpost

# ¿ Feb 5, 2010 07:28

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Why specifically does there seem to be Costa Rica dislike in this thread?

Is it just because the place is commercialized and too popular? Anecdotally, I've known far more people who have spent significant time in Costa Rica than Mexico and I live 45 minutes from Mexico. Is the country just packed full of early 20 somethings trying to find themselves and "working" with some non-profit?

Anyway, just because its popular does it not make it worthwhile? If I've been to other places South America, does Costa Rica really offer anything new? I was thinking of going for a few weeks, I've never been.

# ¿ Sep 10, 2010 18:21

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Is there a specific Macchu Picchu route that is better suited for someone a little nervous around heights...uhh its for a friend.
Also, is Lake Titicaca worth it? I heard some bad stuff about how it is over-touristy and not much to do

# ¿ Jun 4, 2013 06:12

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Brian Fellows posted:

What triggers your fear of heights? No approach to the proper ruins is going to be a height issue. If you walk to the Sun Gate at Machu Picchu you could have a problem- one edge of the path is basically a cliff, though the other edge is a wall cut out of the cliff (so rocks and the like). There are also rarely walls or anything to stop you from falling in the ruins themselves, but there's always plenty of room to stay well away from edges.

I didn't go to the Inca Bridge so I can't speak to that. Also didn't climb Huayna Picchu but I'm pretty sure there's a bridge there that may be problematic for you.

I DID climb Putucusi, the mountain accross from Machu Picchu. Don't climb that if you're not cool with heights (hands over head wooden ladders).

Its mainly if there is a narrow steep path open at both ends. It sounds like there isn't. oWhat about the Inca Trail itself?

e:
I pretty much jumped in a trip last minute with some friends who are going to SA for months. I'm just tagging along for a few weeks. They are pretty laid back about everything. They haven't even booked a Macchu Picchu trek yet and told me we'd take care of it later. Isn't it too late for July/August everything is booked months in advance?

CatchrNdRy fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Jun 4, 2013

# ¿ Jun 4, 2013 16:43

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Hadlock posted:

I've always heard it's booked months in advance, but at the same time I've never heard of someone showing up in person, cash in hand and being denied, either.

Several people showed up the night before (in December, the slow season) and had a trip booked for the next day.

Yeah its probably too into the season to pull that stuff off. Normally I would say in most countries some money will get you in, but isn't the trails pretty heavily regulated?

Brian Fellows posted:

The INCA TRAIL is most likely booked and there's no chance you'll get into that with so little notice. That is the 4 day trek to get to Machu Picchu and it sells out way ahead of time (Peru government has a max trekkers per day limit).

Machu Picchu itself does have a daily limit (you just stay in or take a train into Aguas Calientes, the small town at the foot of the mountain), but I'm fairly sure you can generally show up and get a ticket to that day-of, or at least a few days out. Definitely research it yourself, and I think you can buy tickets online so you might as well do that ahead of time.

For a data point, I booked a trip to Peru in... Feb or March? I went in early May, which is just before peak season. At the time I booked, all of the Inca Trail passes were long gone, but there was no problem getting a Machu Picchu ticket.

No matter what happens, be sure you have a ticket in hand BEFORE you start climbing or riding up the winding road to Machu Picchu itself, whether you get it online or from a booth in Aguas Calientes. They don't sell tickets on-site and you'll have to go back down the mountain. I saw them turn away people that'd walked (1 hour up hill on a dirt road) if they didn't have a ticket.

Edit- I just checked and there are some random dates that are available in the time frames you're talking about, but not many. For a good gauge, G Adventures is the biggest company in terms of passes purchased. Go to their site, search for Inca trail, then view their availability calendars for the dates you're looking at to see what is and isn't sold out.

Thanks that is helpful info. I'm not really leading our travel agenda, but I'm armed with your knowledge now.

I've seen some stuff about the "less crowded" routes such as the Royal Inca Trail which is apparently two days and leads to Macchu Picchu? Are these things also probably extremely booked?

# ¿ Jun 5, 2013 01:37

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

hoiyes posted:

There are no Inca Trail passes available until the 4th of October, the terrible, terrible official site can be found here - http://www.machupicchu.gob.pe/ -- change language to english, click on the Queries tab, then change the box under 'Archaeological Centre' to Camino Inka for real-time ticket availability.

Checking out the G-Adventures site, and the fine print if you click on an "available date" says that the Inca Trail is booked so they'll do an alternative trek. Don't book with G-Adventures though because that price is about 4x what you'll pay for trek organised in Cusco itself. Like, that is a huge price for an alternative trek. The main cost in the Camino Inka trek is the entry price which is about $400 last I checked, but companies such as SAS travel offer the Inca Trail for $650 pp.

The Royal Inca is a pretty good alternative hike if you're short on time, you get to see the ruins and steep terraces at Winaywayna which are very impressive. And you get to enter Machu Picchu via the Sun Gate (although unlike the Inca Trail hikers who arrive at sunrise and stay there for the day, you'll arrive in the afternoon and head straight for the exit and then return the next day -- good for recouping your energy to take on Huanya Picchu).

I have no idea about the Lares trek but I've heard about and seen photos of the Salkantay trek, which is utterly stunning. I'd say it rivals Torres del Paine for its sheer natural vistas & high altitude lakes. You will need time to acclimatise because its much higher than other treks, but if you're all pretty adventurous Salkantay is an option.

Thanks, my friends are convinced that they can get stuff on the ground a few days before, because they heard such-and-such do it. Yeah G-Adventures looks incredibly expensive. I figure any guide who can get in will be pretty good, because there are a limited, select group that can get in anyway?

As someone nervous around heights, Huanya Picchu looks scary as poo poo.

also, is Lake Titicaca worthwhile?

# ¿ Jun 7, 2013 05:44

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

hoiyes posted:

To clarify, only the Inca Trail proper is booked, because the government has put a strict limit on the number of hikers per day and it's also a very popular hike, deservedly. All the other alternative treks mentioned you should be able to book in Cusco with a few days notice, Especially if there's a group of you, it means that even if it's only you guys that want to trek on a particular date, it'll still be worth their while. Then there's sites and treks you can do without a guide or booking, such as Pisac (nice ruins, really tough hike, the markets in the town are extensive and worth browsing), Tupiza (large Inca farming site, interesting due to the mostly intact irrigation system) or Moray (aliens did it) etc.

Titicaca is pretty stunning due to its overwhelming size, but the town Puno is nothing special. The floating islands are interesting to observe but also a little sad at how the people there now seem to rely on hard sell tourism. I have some fairly interesting stories about Puno, but only because we arrived there in the middle of the 2011 riots. I would recommend instead spending time checking out Huacachina or Arequipa or Iquitos/The Amazon.

As for central America, the impression I got from other travellers was, Belize is full of rich tourists, El Salvador and Honduras are full of kidnappers, and Guatemala is full of awesome - everyone loves Guatemala.

hey i really appreciate the advice, it cleared up a lot of stuff for me. Is there anything else to do in Titicaca besides those islands? Please share your Puno riot stories!

# ¿ Jun 12, 2013 06:39

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Destroyenator posted:

I'm heading to Peru in a couple of months and will be flying into Cusco (via Lima). I'm going with my sister and we'd like to do a Machu Picchu hike. I've been a couple of years ago and did a Salkantay trek that I really enjoyed but I came in on bus and had already spent heaps of time at altitude in Bolivia beforehand.

I know it's too late to book the traditional one and we're not fussed about that but we fly into Cusco on the fifth of September and would have to get to MP on the tenth or eleventh at the very latest. We could probably do Salkantay but I'm worried about altitude sickness. Are there any other alternative routes that don't go too high but aren't gimmicky mountain biking/ziplining/rafting ones? Are we likely to be able to rock up the day before and get on one?

I'm in Peru right now and finished Salkantay a few days ago. The other tours that seem to be offered right now are Lares and Jungle. Jungle seems very gimmicky and Laers is quite far from Macchu, you get a train ticket at the end.

As an aside, Im splitting from my friends and heading back to Lima and have a day and a half to kill before my flight. Just cruise around Miraflores?

# ¿ Jul 30, 2013 02:22

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Positive Optimyst posted:

I am in Arequipa and just left Lima (and Huacashina).

Miraflores is a good place to stay in Lima. It feels like Europe (not that I want that) and you'll here French and Eglish spoken on the streets.

I'm moving to Tuscon in November.

Tucson, like the ubiquitous Peruvian Hyundai Tucson.
I do recall your posts in the Arizona thread, let me welcome you to a city that is Latin American not only in language and culture, but in road infrastructure and income disparity! And kilometers!

Lima and Miraflores was fine, but as you said reminded me of any "Western" downtown as opposed to something unique.

CatchrNdRy fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Aug 2, 2013

# ¿ Aug 2, 2013 23:10

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Positive Optimyst posted:

I am excited to move there, Catcher.

Yeah, I stayed at the Condor's House, which was OK but a business. Walked around Miraflores to kill time.

Heading to Puno soon, to the lake, Bolivia, and Argentina. I will cut the trip short, though. i want to get back to the US to take care of things.

Keep us posted on more places you visit in Peru.

Walking around Miraflores kills a lot of time. I stayed in Dragonfly, which is one of those trying to be hip hostels.

Actually, I already am back. My European friends have like 10 weeks paid vacation or something crazy like that and already moved on to Arequipa. Only did Lima, Huacachina, Cusco (Macchu and Sacred Valley).

Note to future visitors of Peru: I have a mild, but not restrictive fear of heights. I managed the relatively difficult Salkantay Trek, Macchu Picchu and many other random monuments (all which seem to require climbing steep stairs and with some unguarded drop-offs.)

That being said, this is not a country you want to visit if you have anything more than a mild fear of heights. Even some of the hostels had multiple stories without any guard rails on stairs. My palms definitely sweaty and I tensed up more than a few times. Even people who aren't scared of heights have turned away from Wayna Picchu, perhaps the crown jewel of Macchu.

CatchrNdRy fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Aug 6, 2013

# ¿ Aug 6, 2013 21:18

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Brian Fellows posted:

I flew between Cuzco and Lima twice this spring and I can tell you right now that the flights were indistinguishable from any short-hop American flight, and the landing space in both areas was completely adequate. These flights occur many, many times a day and their track record is just fine. I would never, EVER trust the roads between the two cities though. Drivers are all maniacs and the roads are in the worst condition ever. I'd pay a few hundred dollars for the flight, let alone the $90 I did pay.

We bussed first class from Huacachina to Cuzco for 20 hours. They tell you to draw the curtains. I made the mistake of looking out the window at the curvy, no-guard rail, steep windy, one lane roads that pretty much are 90% of the trip.

ShaggiusPrime posted:

I'm currently one month into a 3 month volunteering gig here in Ecuador and I thought I could maybe help you out. First of all, $2000 is a lot of money here in Ecuador, if you don't mind staying in hostels you'll easily stay under budget. Plus staying in hostels is the best way to meet other people if you're going to be traveling alone.

I did a month volunteering in Quito a few years ago. I know there are a ton of groups, but just out of curiosity, who are you with and what are you doing?

# ¿ Oct 9, 2013 07:11

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Hadlock posted:

If it's like any other airport in the world, yeah you will have to fully exit and re-enter with all your luggage + pay some sort of stupid tourist fee regardless of your 45 minute duration

I hate the Lima airport

But you can buy Alpaca sweaters!

# ¿ Dec 6, 2013 01:35

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# ¿ May 2, 2024 08:21

CatchrNdRy: Mar 15, 2005; Receiver of the Rye.

Rashomon posted:

I'm planning a trip to Peru with my wife and two of our best friends next August. I'm not sure exactly of the time frame yet, but we'll be there at least 7-8 days, and are planning to do the Inca Trail, Cusco, and some of the Sacred Valley stuff. Hopefully it will be longer, and we can maybe add on Lake Titicaca and maybe the Salt Flats in Bolivia. But we know, a week in Peru for sure. I'd love any advice or thoughts you have about cool stuff, which Inca Trail treks are best (we are planning to do a 4 day/3 night one), if there is anything to avoid, thoughts on where to stay in Cusco that is cheap, stuff to make sure to bring, etc.

I was in Cusco July/August. It was medium jacket cold at night, but warm in the day.

We went on the Salkanty Inca Trail, its slightly longer than the classic Inca trail, goes waaay higher in altitude and has one killer day. But overall the other days are "less" fatiguing than the up and down of the classic Inca Trail (or so I hear). It snowed, especially when we were 16k up. You don't enter through the Sun Gate like the regular Inca Trail, you end at the city and enter Macchu ail like every other bus taking tourist sclub.

Rent walking sticks and heavy sleepings bags. To me it wasn't worth lugging around that heavy stuff and dragging it from the US. Be sure to pack sunscreen, its expensive all over South America.

I am mild to moderately afraid of heights, so a good portion of Peru was mild to moderately terrifying. I feel bad for anyone in a wheelchair who has to live there.

# ¿ Jan 9, 2014 07:49

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