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Megabound posted:Boycott their poo poo and help ratio their instagram. Their exclusivity contract with Kodak is why they're the only people who can sell 120 XX. I want them to lose that contract so other companies can get Kodak master rolls and do the same. Yeah, no, I agree, gently caress 'em if they're going to pull this. I have strong affinities to a lot of Kodak films but I've got plenty of other options I can shoot. I'll shoot what I've got left, but "more XX" isn't worth putting money into the pockets of a company like that. If nothing else I've always got Tri-X, and I have buckets of Tri-X. ( If they brought back Panatomic-X, maybe we'd talk a little bit. But good luck with that. )
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# ? Oct 11, 2023 07:30 |
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# ? May 3, 2024 11:56 |
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I've noticed that the ISO (ASA I guess) wheel on my Pentax ME Super has little notches between the ISO values that it can be set to. For instance, between 400 and 800 there is a dot on the 400 side and a dot on the 800 side that he knob can be set to. Are there films with ISO's in between 400 and 800? Is this a way to trick the camera into extra exposure compensation? It already has two stops of compensation on either side of the exposure available on a separate wheel. I dont think this is accidental, as there is a definite detent for each dot, and there isnt one between the two dots Whats going on here? Here you can see it set to the in between dot: Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Oct 11, 2023 |
# ? Oct 11, 2023 21:22 |
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Yes its for in between values and you can use it for exposure comp Example you can buy ilford fp4 125
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# ? Oct 11, 2023 21:34 |
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Shot on Olympus SP, on Fuji 400 film. I know it's not technically Superia, but I like how neutral it renders the colors. Had them developed and scanned at my local lab, they have a Noritsu scanner. My local lab seems to have a magenta tint, which I find pleasing, it can be corrected in post if I cared enough.
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# ? Oct 11, 2023 21:57 |
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Beve Stuscemi posted:my Pentax ME Super ] That camera looks like it's in really nice shape! lollybo posted:Shot on Olympus SP, on Fuji 400 film. I like that foggy old house shot a lot. Are you somewhere down south? I bought some of the cheap Fuji stuff from Walmart once time years ago and was pleasantly surprised with how good it was.
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# ? Oct 12, 2023 01:03 |
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a dingus posted:That camera looks like it's in really nice shape! Weirdly, for a Goodwill find, it is! Everything seems in working order, the 50mm lens is clear as can be, AND it came with a period correct denim shoulder strap, which is It seems whoever owned it before me actually looked after it.
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# ? Oct 12, 2023 02:15 |
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a dingus posted:
Yes I was in Brevard, North Carolina. Had to turn the car around to find somewhere to park, but I think the result was worth it. Yeah I think it's a decent film- not as much character as some other films, but nothing distinctively bad about it.
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# ? Oct 13, 2023 00:04 |
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The Film and/or Thrift gods have smiled upon me today. I spotted a Pentax camera bag while out thrifting today. I was going to get the bag just because I thought it would be cool to keep my ME Super in, but upon picking it up, I discovered that it had not only a Pentax ZX-30 with the 28-80 kit lens on it, but the bag was full of film canisters! The film is a mix of Kodak Max 400 and Fuji Super HQ 200 My question to you all is, are these canisters unused? I only ask because this is an auto-winder camera, and could theoretically wind each canister to the exact same spot, like they are right now. However, I feel like this would really confuse the user and make them mix up what film is used and what film isnt. So, would this camera wind the completed film into the canister? Can I assume these canisters are unused? There is a roll of film already in the camera, so once I get ahold of some CR2 batteries, I'll shoot the rest of that roll and find out for myself how the camera winds it, but if anyone knows, let me know
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# ? Oct 13, 2023 22:44 |
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I'd guess unshot but you wont know until you get one developed. I'd shoot one roll and see what happens. If unused great, if used you've just collaborated with the past on a bunch of double exposures
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# ? Oct 13, 2023 23:08 |
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I've never used an auto winder but I'd assume it'd always wind the roll back into the canister. It'd be super confusing to wind it back the way an unused canister looks.
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# ? Oct 13, 2023 23:21 |
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a dingus posted:I've never used an auto winder but I'd assume it'd always wind the roll back into the canister. It'd be super confusing to wind it back the way an unused canister looks. This is my thought too, so fingers crossed for unused film.
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# ? Oct 13, 2023 23:42 |
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Beve Stuscemi posted:The Film and/or Thrift gods have smiled upon me today. Wow, check out Mx Moneybags here with the OG Fuji c200
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# ? Oct 13, 2023 23:54 |
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lol the whole kit ran me $6
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 00:00 |
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says those are all unused. The auto-winder I have rolls in all the way, it'd be silly not to.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 00:22 |
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Beve Stuscemi posted:lol the whole kit ran me $6 These types of finds are absolutely golden - looking forward to seeing the results. Speaking of results, I shot some Washi S and absolutely fuuuuuuuuucked it up. It's 50 ISO sound recording film and I shot it in my Super Ikonta which produces great results but gently caress me I did not shoot it right. Below is probably the most workable photo but I didn't account for how Ortho it'd be and just a bit meh. I've got Fomapan 200 loaded in my Super Ikonta so I'll have another crack at these but yikes.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 00:23 |
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Recent adventures in Doing More B&W, some TriX 400Recoome posted:These types of finds are absolutely golden - looking forward to seeing the results. I'm a sicko for super contrast
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 00:53 |
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Bought an old-style K1000 off a guy with a couple small lenses, cheap flash, and accessories, then he gave me a thirty minute rundown on how to use the thing. Picked up some standard film on the way home. About a week ago I thought I wanted an instant but I guess I'm gonna learn to use a 35mm. Taking recommendations on what film to put in it once I've wasted a few rolls learning to shoot.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 04:55 |
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You won't know until you shoot them and get them developed. In any case, the chances that they're unshot are high though I don't know if Pentax ever did factory modifications for their cameras to do leader out. I know Nikon did factory modifications if you sent your camera to them if you wanted leader out for your film winder (my F4s came with the leader out modification).
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 06:34 |
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Ohtori Akio posted:Bought an old-style K1000 off a guy with a couple small lenses, cheap flash, and accessories, then he gave me a thirty minute rundown on how to use the thing. Picked up some standard film on the way home. About a week ago I thought I wanted an instant but I guess I'm gonna learn to use a 35mm. Taking recommendations on what film to put in it once I've wasted a few rolls learning to shoot. Portra 800 is probably my favorite all-around film since it looks nice and is flexible to a lot of different conditions. I'd start with that until you get some shots you like.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 11:39 |
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Ohtori Akio posted:Bought an old-style K1000 off a guy with a couple small lenses, cheap flash, and accessories, then he gave me a thirty minute rundown on how to use the thing. Picked up some standard film on the way home. About a week ago I thought I wanted an instant but I guess I'm gonna learn to use a 35mm. Taking recommendations on what film to put in it once I've wasted a few rolls learning to shoot. I'd say Portra 400 just to be different from a dingus I guess. They're both super forgiving and honestly you can shoot a roll of 400 at 800 speed if you wanted to do a NIGHT ROLL and just tell the lab it's +1 stops.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 12:33 |
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VoodooXT posted:You won't know until you shoot them and get them developed. Why would you want that?
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 14:04 |
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dupersaurus posted:Why would you want that? I can think of two reasons. First it makes it possible to “pause” a roll by rewinding it then when you want to use the rest of it just put the lens cap on and fire the shutter until you are back where you were. Second, if you develop in your own it’s easier if you can just grab the leader instead of using a tool to extract it.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 15:24 |
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When you’re getting developing at home taking the leader out sucks, I made that mistake once manually winding my AE-1, never again. I just bought a Nikon F4 and I’m pretty sure I’m never going to use its auto-rewind.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 15:45 |
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illcendiary posted:When you’re getting developing at home taking the leader out sucks, I made that mistake once manually winding my AE-1, never again. I just bought a Nikon F4 and I’m pretty sure I’m never going to use its auto-rewind. I just use a bottle opener on 35mm rolls, fishing for the leader is a major PITA even with the right tools.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 16:29 |
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Clayton Bigsby posted:I just use a bottle opener on 35mm rolls, fishing for the leader is a major PITA even with the right tools. I’m still relatively new (only developed about 6 rolls at home), but being able to use the leader to start the roll on the reel in broad daylight before the bag transfer was so much easier than my first developing headache (cracked can open in bag, fumbled around with loose film for half an hour, scratched and tore everything) that I can’t imagine going back
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 16:36 |
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Does home development save money, or is it a time saver, or both? There are two labs in the Milwaukee area that do in-house development, and it’s about a 20 minute drive depending on traffic in the city for me, so it’s not horrible, but not super convenient either.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 18:37 |
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Beve Stuscemi posted:My question to you all is, are these canisters unused? I only ask because this is an auto-winder camera, and could theoretically wind each canister to the exact same spot, like they are right now. I solved the mystery, the camera winds the film back into the can, so the canisters I have look to be unused. Only one way to find out for sure though and that’s to shoot them. The camera body itself is unusable, apparently the Pentax ZX line is notorious for the mirror getting stuck in the up position because the gear that drives it is plastic, which turns to dust after a while. Pentax issued a replacement brass gear for it, which is essentially unobtanium in 2023, and the replacement process is not for someone who doesn’t repair cameras for a living, apparently it’s deep inside the body. Oh well, $6 still got me a nice Pentax bag, 5 rolls of film and a kit lens that actually will mount to my ME Super (thank you Pentax for your stubborn refusal to change your lens mount). A win overall. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Oct 14, 2023 |
# ? Oct 14, 2023 18:43 |
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Does home development save money, or is it a time saver, or both? B&W is pretty easy to do at home, C-41 kits are also available for color negative (require a bit more fine-tuned temperature control). Scanning is another one that can easily pay for itself if you shoot semi-frequently, a lot of people hate on flatbeds for 35mm but tbh it's probably fine for what most people are doing with them (posting on social media). You can also set up a scanning station around a DSLR or mirrorless camera that'll give better results for 35mm.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 18:49 |
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Does home development save money, or is it a time saver, or both? Both, ostensibly, though you have to get through a number of rolls before you see savings past the investment, keep track of chemical shelf life, etc. I mostly started doing it because we bought a house and now my local shop is a 20 minute drive instead of 10. It’s fun to do at home too!
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 18:49 |
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C41 development is pretty easy IMO. It might take a try or two to feel comfortable with it since it's pretty much a half hour race against the clock to pour, agitate, rinse etc but it's not bad if you use a timer app and a thermometer. Scanning is a different beast IMO and sucks pretty bad. I'll go ahead and hate on my v500 flatbed because it's slow as poo poo and even after everything is scanned you still need to color correct and remove dust etc. I just let the lab do it and if there's ever a time that I don't like the lab's scan I can pop it in the scanner myself. Edit: I guess maybe you don't have to scan all of your negatives in at once and only choose the shots you think are OK, but Ive always tried to do them all.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 19:57 |
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Is there a way to determine the age of film without the original box? The 5 rolls I have didn’t come in the box, can the numbers on the can be decoded somehow? I can just shoot them a stop or two below their rating as a guess I suppose.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 20:01 |
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illcendiary posted:I’m still relatively new (only developed about 6 rolls at home), but being able to use the leader to start the roll on the reel in broad daylight before the bag transfer was so much easier than my first developing headache (cracked can open in bag, fumbled around with loose film for half an hour, scratched and tore everything) that I can’t imagine going back What kind of reels are you using? I've personally found that just about anything works _except_ for the stainless steel 35mm ones that are an absolute bitch to load. For 120 I like stainless but the Paterson plastic ones are fine so compromised on a Paterson tank with the adjustable reels which work for either format. But I usually snip the leader off the 35mm stuff to make it easier to load. Honestly, the best thing to do is grab a roll and work in daylight, then once you feel you've got it down close your eyes, then finally do it in a bag. It's kind of like riding a bike in that once you "get" it you'll have the skill for life. I hadn't loaded a roll of 120 in over a decade and had zero problems doing it; your fingers just remember.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 20:42 |
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I'm on a darkroom course for beginners and the technique for using the Paterson spiral given to us was about so: 1. Go slow. 2. Place thumbs on the wide parts of the spiral. 3. Only move one hand, the other stays put. 4. Lift the spiral 20cm from the table and get enough film out so the roll stays on the table. 5. When the roll hits your fingers stop and pull it so it sits on the table again. Beats my old technique of going really fast and hoping for the best.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 21:23 |
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Does home development save money, or is it a time saver, or both? For colour I send it to a lab, at least in Australia the cost offset isn't the best and it's a pain to do at home. I also shoot maybe 5 rolls of colour a year, all slide, so if rather have it done by professionals. For black and white the cost savings are immense. My local lab is $18 develop only. It costs me 4c in chemicals. They charge so much because it's a time intensive process, with most films requiring different times in the same developer. So as a lab you need to match the films together that require the same time, then process those, usually by hand, and so on and so forth.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 22:45 |
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dupersaurus posted:Why would you want that? For me it's because I reload the cannisters with fresh film. I start my leader on the spool outside of the dark bag for convenience then when I get to the end of the roll I cut it with a couple centimetres hanging out so I can tape the start of my bulk roll onto it.
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# ? Oct 14, 2023 22:47 |
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Does home development save money, or is it a time saver, or both? I calculated this for B&W 120 roll film using DD-X. Purchasing two 120 rolls ($10 each) and developing them costs me $14 per roll, so $4 for the developing (+stop+fix) part. It saves time too. Another benefit is that I know for a fact that my film will not be scratched by a squeegee.
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# ? Oct 15, 2023 00:22 |
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Has anyone played with super old stuff and/or repaired a camera with bellows? Worth it? Fun? I was given these old cameras by my grandfather years ago. I'm interested in trying out the one on the right. It's a Kodak vest pocket camera which apparently was a really popular model with soldiers in WWI. The same grandfather mentioned we had a relative fight in the war... It wasn't until getting into shooting it that I figured out that the serial number on this dates to the early 1920, but it looks like there are a couple small holes in the bellows.
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# ? Oct 15, 2023 01:45 |
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a dingus posted:Has anyone played with super old stuff and/or repaired a camera with bellows? Worth it? Fun? I was given these old cameras by my grandfather years ago. I'm interested in trying out the one on the right. It's a Kodak vest pocket camera which apparently was a really popular model with soldiers in WWI. The same grandfather mentioned we had a relative fight in the war... It wasn't until getting into shooting it that I figured out that the serial number on this dates to the early 1920, but it looks like there are a couple small holes in the bellows. You can straight up get replacement bellows or you can just wrap a big black shirt or whatever around it just to use it without massive light leaks to see if it's working. The bigger thing would probably be finding film that fits the film holder in the back - I have a few old cameras in the family and this is the big bottleneck: Not sure if you're supposed to buy slide film/LF film and cut it down to size, I'm sure that would work. I'd be more curious about whether the shutter actually fires and if the timing is correct on it at all. The focusing can also be a seized nightmare and can make your bellows dry rot issues worse as you try to articulate it.
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# ? Oct 15, 2023 05:02 |
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a dingus posted:Has anyone played with super old stuff and/or repaired a camera with bellows? Worth it? Fun? I was given these old cameras by my grandfather years ago. I'm interested in trying out the one on the right. It's a Kodak vest pocket camera which apparently was a really popular model with soldiers in WWI. The same grandfather mentioned we had a relative fight in the war... It wasn't until getting into shooting it that I figured out that the serial number on this dates to the early 1920, but it looks like there are a couple small holes in the bellows. Yes in fact I did an entire blog post on it and it's fun but time consuming https://cohost.org/CalmBrain/post/830004-making-a-bellows-for But you could also just make a paper bellows and that would work just as well for your purposes. https://youtu.be/FhVlJGSK92s?si=RCWugMGizbPv1Zrj
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# ? Oct 15, 2023 06:13 |
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# ? May 3, 2024 11:56 |
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VelociBacon posted:I'd be more curious about whether the shutter actually fires and if the timing is correct on it at all. The focusing can also be a seized nightmare and can make your bellows dry rot issues worse as you try to articulate it. drat I didn't think about the shutter speed potentially being messed up. The shutter on my current Kodak vest pocket only works on 1/25th but I bought a second on eBay that is supposed to work nicely. Im hoping I can get one good unit from the two. They also still sell film for the smaller camera, althoug its expensive at like $15 for 5 exposures or something. Megabound posted:Yes in fact I did an entire blog post on it and it's fun but time consuming This is great! I'd like to make replacement bellows at some point if mine are all hosed.
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# ? Oct 17, 2023 01:31 |