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Dec 16, 2012 22:12
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That's a drat sight better than your silly bike picture, friend!
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Dec 16, 2012 22:18
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evil_bunnY posted:That's a drat sight better than your silly bike picture, friend! That bike picture will always have a very special place in my heart, if not just for the "Mannequin understands exposure thoroughly" comment that was probably proto-Dorkroom's longest running catchphrase.
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Dec 16, 2012 22:27
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SoundMonkey posted:That bike picture will always have a very special place in my heart, if not just for the "Mannequin understands exposure thoroughly" comment that was probably proto-Dorkroom's longest running catchphrase.
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Dec 16, 2012 22:29
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SoundMonkey posted:That bike picture will always have a very special place in my heart, if not just for the "Mannequin understands exposure thoroughly" comment that was probably proto-Dorkroom's longest running catchphrase. Whatever happened to that guy who coined that phrase? I forget his name. He never posts here anymore.
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Dec 16, 2012 22:33
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Mannequin posted:Whatever happened to that guy who coined that phrase? I forget his name. He never posts here anymore. Pwn aka GE Cafe. I'm not gonna get into his specific claim to fame, but yeah I haven't seen him post here in a while.
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Dec 16, 2012 22:36
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Quantum of Phallus posted:New film day in the QoP household Expecting great things from those rolls 
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Dec 17, 2012 11:27
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Thanks, I can't wait to start shooting faster films. The fastest I've ever used is 400 speed black and white so to have 800 speed colour and 1600 speed black and white (my camera doesn't push film so I can't get the Delta to 3200 or 6400) blows my mind.
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Dec 17, 2012 14:13
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atomicthumbs posted:
Reminds me of a photo I took a few months back   Wanderer Above the Sea of Fog - Pilot Mountain by iantuten, on Flickr
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Dec 17, 2012 15:31
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Quantum of Phallus posted:(my camera doesn't push film so I can't get the Delta to 3200 or 6400).
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Dec 17, 2012 23:13
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So, getting closer to when I sack up and start doing my own C-41 (hurry up winter vacation  ). Looking at the instructions, I see: I think everyone I'd read about doing it was doing the warmer (38C) process, but the colder one sounds like it'd be a little easier: probably a bit more margin for error on pouring/etc due to the longer dev times, and I think it'd be a little easier to hold the temperature constant. Anyone else doing it that way and have anything to add?
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Dec 18, 2012 01:01
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ExecuDork posted:Wait, what? Can you shoot in full manual on your camera, or not? If you can, you can shoot any film at any speed you feel like. Pushing is more about the developing than the shooting - you deliberately underexpose your film while shooting, then compensate for that when developing. I can't change film speed on my Pentax P30N. I suppose I could always just underexpose every shot.
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Dec 18, 2012 01:05
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Quantum of Phallus posted:I can't change film speed on my Pentax P30N. I suppose I could always just underexpose every shot. It's reading the DX code off the film cylinder. You can blank out squares with nail polish to change it. I used to have a P30n but can't remember if there's a manual override otherwise. Also yes, -1 EV compensation is equivalent to +1 stop ISO.
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Dec 18, 2012 01:29
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Paul MaudDib posted:You can blank out squares with nail polish to change it. I could in theory but as far as I know, the highest a P30n will read is ISO 1600.
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Dec 18, 2012 01:43
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Quantum of Phallus posted:I could in theory but as far as I know, the highest a P30n will read is ISO 1600. Can it set exposure compensation? 1600 with -1EV is 3200 and and so on.
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Dec 18, 2012 03:06
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According to the reviews and specs on Pentaxforums, the P30n does have manual mode, but will only allow iso 100 in manual-iso mode. So, if you cover the DX code with tape or something, the camera will assume it's iso 100. Annoying, but not the end of the world. Shoot in manual, adjusting however many stops from the meter suggestion. e.g. Load film you want to shoot at 3200. 3200 is 5 stops faster than 100. If the meter suggests 1/8s at f/8 (for example), shoot at 1/250 at f/8 (or adjust both shutter speed and aperture to get to the right exposure). Relevant part of the most recent review on Pentaxforums: PentaxForums posted:Frankly, I'd give this a 10 if not for the lack of an override for the DX coding. That said, it really has not proven to be too big a deal when it comes to pulling/pushing film; I just make a mental note when I'm reading the meter, and I then adjust accordingly.
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Dec 18, 2012 03:07
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Pompous Rhombus posted:
Just make sure you keep the dev away from the blix, don't want to get a drop in there, if you have a break for a day or so chuck the dev in the fridge, and after the blix give the film a good wash in water before the stabiliser. You'll soon see how easy it is.
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Dec 18, 2012 04:15
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You know, I used to talk poo poo about Reala, but uh... I may have decided to change my mind about it. The Citadel by iantuten, on Flickr  The Citadel by iantuten, on Flickr Count Thrashula fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Dec 18, 2012 |
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Dec 18, 2012 04:47
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When Reala is good, it's really good. When it's bad, gently caress magenta.
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Dec 18, 2012 06:33
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I am in the process of scanning and editing some portra. Color negative film is loving hard. Everything is so blue. I need to get me some e-6 asap. And then blow out all the highlights because I'm used to negative films latitude...
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Dec 18, 2012 07:02
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Demon_Corsair posted:I am in the process of scanning and editing some portra. Color negative film is loving hard. Everything is so blue. Could be the scanner. I'm not saying your scanner is bad per se, but I bought a really cheap scanner over the summer (and managed to sell it thankfully) and everything from slide to negative had a horrible blue tint. Porta is awesome though. 8th-samurai posted:Can it set exposure compensation? 1600 with -1EV is 3200 and and so on. I don't think so but like others said, I can always just shoot fully manual.
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Dec 18, 2012 11:00
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Demon_Corsair posted:I am in the process of scanning and editing some portra. Color negative film is loving hard. Everything is so blue. The inversion of the orange mask is blue, so no surprise there. Make a new curves action to use every time that takes out all of the blue!
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Dec 18, 2012 16:45
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God, will the smell of fixer ever leave my hands?  edit: At least it wasn't for nothing my first development 
Primo Itch fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Dec 19, 2012 |
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Dec 19, 2012 00:11
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Primo Itch posted:God, will the smell of fixer ever leave my hands? Embrace it.
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Dec 19, 2012 01:01
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Either that or get an odorless fixer. Which isn't totally odorless but waaay less smelly.
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Dec 19, 2012 04:29
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Anyone have any idea what these artifacts are showing up on some of my scanned film? (out of focus picture to emphasize) It seems to happen to a couple pictures per roll I scan, I have a stock V500. Different kinds of film/cameras used so it's definitely the scanner. Is this some focus or reflection issue? edit: upon further research it appears these are the dreaded Newton Rings caused by my film being so bendy it touches the glass of the scanner. Mystery solved.
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Dec 19, 2012 04:41
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Yes, newton rings. I used to get them with my v600 until I started using a glass holder.
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Dec 19, 2012 04:45
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I just developed some tmax 400 and started to scan with this photo and noticed these weird lines in the sky: sheep test by Paul Hofreiter, on Flickr My scanner is pretty craptastic but I have not seen this before. Did I gently caress something up in development? Speaking of my craptastic scanner I have to go one frame at a time in Vuescan and it takes forever so I will update if more seem to have this problem.
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Dec 19, 2012 07:17
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rio posted:I just developed some tmax 400 and started to scan with this photo and noticed these weird lines in the sky: 35mm? What was your agitation process? That is bromide drag, usually caused by insufficient initial agitation or hulking out and shaking the tank like it owes you money.
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Dec 19, 2012 08:03
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Yeah 35mm (ME Super). I am almost through scanning the rest of the roll and it appears that is the only shot with those marks. This is only the second roll I have ever tried to develop myself so I am following the instructions on the first page of this thread (thanks btw) and the other images seem fine so I am not sure how this one got messed up.
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Dec 19, 2012 09:41
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rio posted:Yeah 35mm (ME Super). I am almost through scanning the rest of the roll and it appears that is the only shot with those marks. This is only the second roll I have ever tried to develop myself so I am following the instructions on the first page of this thread (thanks btw) and the other images seem fine so I am not sure how this one got messed up. Oh I thought the whole roll was like that. Could be a light leak if it's just on a frame or two. Light piping has been know to do some weird stuff like that. What do the edges look like?
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Dec 19, 2012 09:46
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The edges don't look like there was light leaking through although the beginning of the roll had what seemed to be light leaking issues...I'm pretty confused. It is also after 4am so that is probably not helping. There were some light leak issues earlier in the roll but it looked nothing like this - this is so regular.
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Dec 19, 2012 10:24
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Really looks like light leak to me, had something very similar happen on a roll of B&W a few months ago. Or you may have somehow flashed a bit of the film when you took it out of the canister.
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Dec 19, 2012 12:37
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Primo Itch posted:God, will the smell of fixer ever leave my hands? I wear a pair of latex gloves when I work with fixer for just this reason. Really the only part of the process I use them for, but since it's a pain in the rear end to put latex gloves on over wet fingers I just put them on at the beginning when I start developing anyway. Congrats though! Developing is fun
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Dec 19, 2012 14:57
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If the smell bothers you that much, your ventilation probably sucks and the smell is the least of your worries.
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Dec 19, 2012 14:59
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The smell of fixer rules and reminds me that my hobby is the best one there is, so f the haters
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Dec 19, 2012 15:21
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QPZIL posted:The smell of fixer rules and reminds me that my hobby is the best one there is, so f the haters This. Fixer is a really nice smell for me, but i'll never forget the time i opened up a decades-old bottle of kodak stop bath and had the bright idea to sniff it.
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Dec 19, 2012 16:03
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whereismyshoe posted:This. Fixer is a really nice smell for me, but i'll never forget the time i opened up a decades-old bottle of kodak stop bath and had the bright idea to sniff it. I did that with a fresh bottle of stop bath and luckily I was sitting down because I think I would have passed out.
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Dec 19, 2012 16:25
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8th-samurai posted:35mm? What was your agitation process? That is bromide drag, usually caused by insufficient initial agitation or hulking out and shaking the tank like it owes you money. If anything, they're surge marks. Surge marks are areas of overdevelopment that extend from sprocket holes caused by excessive agitation (hulking out). Constant fresh developer surging through the sprocket holes cause some localized overdevelopment. Bromide drag is evidenced by areas of underdevelopment that extend from strong highlights. If you don't agitate enough developer becomes exhausted on the strong highlight and then due to exhausted developer being more dense than non-exhausted developer it starts moving down the negative causing underdevelopment in those areas.
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Dec 19, 2012 17:56
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eggsovereasy posted:If anything, they're surge marks. That makes a lot of sense. Actually, I had a question about the instructions on page one. When it says "slowly invert 5 times every five minutes" I think I might have mistook that as slowly invert once a minute an on top of that I might have been inverting too quickly. I did the same thing with the first roll I developed (invert once a minute for the first five) and didn't have any issues so maybe I was just turning the tank too fast.
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Dec 19, 2012 19:41
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