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Just curious, why an OM-1 over an OM-4? I'm thinking about buying one myself, I picked up a Oly 21mm f/2.0 on the (relatively) cheap to use with my 5D, and wanted to get an Olympus film body to play around with since they seem so well-liked. Was also thinking about the Oly 50mm f/1.2 to go with it a bit later on. kewlpc posted:As someone who works in a drugstore photo lab, I can verify that 99% of the photo employees know absolutely nothing about photography. Jesus, this. I generally only use them for cross-processing, even then I generally can't get them to understand what I want (somewhere in their training is a "NO WE DONT DO SLIDE FILM HERE", just to take my word for it. Then there's the time a lab "lost" 8 rolls of negatives I gave them to scan and couldn't understand why I was upset, since I at least got the lovely, 600kb jpegs out of it.
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Jun 10, 2008 07:57
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breathstealer posted:Probably price. The 3 and 4 are much more expensive than the 1 and 2. Well, there's that  I was looking at the various models a few months ago and the OM-4 seemed like the best choice to me (I wasn't looking at prices but assumed it was a little more expensive): it offers some distinct advantages (Aperture Priority, higher film ISO's) and I figured I'd be in it for the long haul with the camera anyways. Obviously not the best thing for everyone though.
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Jun 10, 2008 17:32
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friendship waffle posted:also, you really only need one thing with a meter. Yeah, I just used my XT (and later, 5D) to meter for my Seagull TLR. Worked fine.
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Jun 11, 2008 13:54
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hybr1d posted:How does everyone store their beauties? By no means do I have anything that I'd want to show off to others, but I do enjoy looking at the cameras when they're not in use. Does anyone have the same lust for their older gear, and how do they handle it? I have mine on a bookshelf. I'm always picking up my Seagull and playing around with it, or looking wistfully at my broken LCA and Olympus XA.
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Jun 19, 2008 06:56
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What's the difference between the ETRsi/etc from the SQ-A/etc lines? I was looking at an ETR/ETRs/ETRsi lens on eBay (donor lens for a homemade tilt-shift on my 35mm) and noticed it went for kinda cheap. Reichstag posted:Broken XA? How broken? Because it really deserves to be fixed and used. It was such a great compact, I miss the hell out of it. It's something really small... the meter works fine, aperture blades/ISO selector are fine, but the shutter will only fire on one speed 95% of the time, I think something like 1/60s. I tried googling the problem and a few people had written that it was an electromagnet/lever assembly (accessible through the bottom plate) at fault, and to try lubricating it with lighter fluid. I tried it before and it didn't really work... I could get the proper shutter speed maybe 40% of the time, but it soon went back to the usual 5%. I'm trying again this evening (getting ready to pack for a long trip this week), but it's not going too well. Anyone else have a guess what the problem might be? If I can't fix it on my own I'll just buy another one and leave this one around for parts/a project. I was thinking about turning it over to a repair shop and having them recalibrate the meter to underexpose by 2 stops, giving me an ISO 100-3200 camera. I wouldn't mind risking one with a gimp shutter as a lab rat, then put a functional one under the knife. I've got 10 rolls of Natura 1600 burning a hole in my fridge :p Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Jun 19, 2008 |
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Jun 19, 2008 15:59
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I went to the camera market today to look for a replacement for my Olympus XA. I found one shop that had one, but they wanted $100 for it. Haven't decided if I'm that desperate yet (eBay + EMS shipping almost makes that price competitive). Also saw a Mamiya RB67 (jesus christ those things are huge) and a Canon 7 with 50mm f/0.95 (asking about $1600... pass). I've got 10 rolls of Fuji Superia I'd like to use on my upcoming trip. I've got an Elan II body that could take it (as well as a 50mm f/1.8 and 21mm f/2.0 for low light shooting), but the XA's highest ISO setting is only 800. Would I still get decent results if I overexposed it by a stop and told the lab I'd exposed it at 800? I know it's a waste of good high-speed film, but I've seen precious little ISO 800 film around. I only paid about a dollar a roll for it anyways. Any other small, sub-$100 (pocketable would be nice, though not totally necessary) cameras with AE metering and support ISO 1600 or greater I should look in to? blambert posted:Edit: That's UK prices mind you. Am I right in assuming it'd be cheaper in the US? Yeah, you guys kind of get it in the pants as far as camera prices, especially if you're comparing against the weakened dollar. Unfortunately you'll often get hammered with duties if you try and order something from overseas, unless the seller is willing to get, uh creative for you on the customs declaration form. Luxmore posted:Mostly that the ETR series is 6x4.5, the SQ series is 6x6. Whoops, that's it. I was looking in to buying some Bronica gear last year, but decided go with lighting equipment instead. Still, looked like a great system, and everything is very reasonably priced. MF has been a buyer's market for a the last couple of years (lucky us!)
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Jun 20, 2008 16:49
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johnasavoia posted:Not familiar with the XA, but theres not exposure compensation that you could use to fool the meter into exposing correctly? Otherwise I would say the Elan II and 21/2 would be the ultimate combo with some 1600 film. Unfortunately not... it has a +1.5 stop compensation lever for backlit subjects, but that's the wrong way. I'm hoping to take one to a camera tech someday and have him recalibrate the meter -2EV, to give me a more modern ISO 100-3200 range (plus have ISO 32 or whatever accessible with that backlight compensator). Having ISO 3200 plus the 35mm f/2.8 Zuiko lens in my pocket would be awesome. I was looking at OM's and considering one of them plus a 50mm. They're not quite small enough to fit in a pocket, but still amazingly compact for a full-frame film SLR.
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Jun 20, 2008 17:53
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johnasavoia posted:Doing some quick reading on Superia, looks like you could expose it at 800 and develop normally and still get decent results, even better if you could find a lab that would pull process it for you. If you gotta have the small camera, go for it. Great, thanks! 1600 print film doesn't require any special equipment or chemicals, right? (so I can just take it anywhere?) Now to get that written on a card in Vietnamese and Lao, and I should be all set  Going back to that market on Monday, hopefully nobody bought it.
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Jun 21, 2008 05:56
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Picked up a pretty much mint condition XA for $90 today at a shop. It's more than I'd have liked to pay, but options were limited and I know I'll get a lot of use out of the little guy on my trip. Rangefinder is brighter and more purple(?) than my old one. What do you guys think is a reasonable asking price for a Seagull 4B-1 TLR? Trying to sell mine locally and not sure what to ask. It's in very nice shape, with a cable release, 4.5x6 mask, and a neckstrap/case thing. I've also got 38 rolls of 120 film (half slightly stale but refrigerated Velvia 100, half Lucky 100 B&W film) to offer along with it, though I can always split that up and sell it to Holga shooters. Mods, this isn't a passive-aggressive way of offering it for sale in the thread by the way. johnasavoia posted:Is it c41? I would try and find a decent place, go to a camera store and have them do it or use wherever they ship to, dont trust a CVS with anything but the film CVS sells. Yeah, just C41 (as is the Kodak B&W I got). There's a pro lab I use here for everything but the throwaway experimental stuff, but I'm going to be on the road for 2 months and don't think the heat and humidity will do the film much good, since it's a bit past its expiration already.
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Jun 23, 2008 15:11
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I had nothing to lose and an afternoon/evening to kill: As gentle as I was trying to be, one of the solder joints by the frame counter came undone, so I've got to take it to a shop and get it touched up before I finish the rebuild. These things are so fiendishly complex with a million tiny little moving parts, it's amazing they don't break just by looking at them the wrong way. I'm glad all I was going after was the shutter.
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Jun 27, 2008 17:53
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Reichstag posted:You might be pretty hosed, though it matters more if they were in direct sunlight than the temperature. What are some tips for keeping film as fresh as possible on the road? I've got 19 rolls of Velvia (120) that expired in Feb 07 that've been on ice, and I'm gearing up to be traveling in the tropics for the next 2 months. The plan right now is for a motorcycle trip, so the film would likely be in a bag on the back most of the time. Any type of container to use/avoid, etc? It's not the end of the world if I get less than professional-looking results, but I'd like to minimize spoilage as much as possible.
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Jun 29, 2008 11:49
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hybr1d posted:I use a mini igloo cooler for just that. I just got back from the Sequioas and used it with my film and one of those cooler gel packs inside- I never froze the gel pack, just got it cold in the hotel fridge. Cool... is refrigerating/unrefrigerating like that okay for the film? It'd be over two months, so I'm not sure if it'd create wear and tear on the chemicals or not (if that's even possible). Another question about storage: is it okay to store 35mm film without a cannister if it's in an opaque container? I was loading the cannisters into a cylindrical tupperware I had around the apartment, seems the space savings would add up.
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Jun 29, 2008 15:17
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Molten Llama posted:I've never seen a problem from doing this. Great, thanks! (it's Velvia, Superia 1600, and Kodak BW 400). I'm cleaning out my film stocks before I go... my last question is about these two rolls of infrared film that came as part of an eBay grab bag. I've read somewhere that some IR films are so sensitive that taking them out of the cannister in a lit environment can expose the film to the IR. Is there any truth to this? (Because I've already done it) It's Kodak Hi Speed Infrared and Konica Infrared 750nm. Also, would I get okay results shooting without an IR filter, or should I not bother?
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Jun 29, 2008 17:59
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Molten Llama posted:Yes It sounded like such an old wives tale, drat. I do have an Olympus XA that would presumably be okay, (those stupid slow ASA settings would actually be useful for once) but I think more likely I'll just pitch it. My goal is to run through all this film by the end of the trip, I can use all the help I can get, heh. 35mm: Fuji Superia 1600 (x10) (for the Elan) Kodak BW 400 (x9) (for the XA) Kodak Elite Chrome 400 (x2) Fuji Pro 160S (x1) Fortepan 100 (x1) Kodak Tmax 100 (x1) Ilford Delta 3200 (x1) Kodachrome 25 (x1) Kodak Tungsten 50 (x1, expired 1992!) 120: Fuji Velvia (x19) Lucky 100 B&W (x18) Fuji Provia (x1)
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Jun 29, 2008 18:30
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breathstealer posted:HIE is worth an absurd amount on eBay so if you don't shoot it, sell it. I wouldn't feel right selling something that's probably no good, and I threw it out yesterday anyways :-\ Yet another stupid film question: I forgot to take my ISO 1600 (and one roll of Ilford 3200) film out of my bag when it went through the X-rays. Am I screwed?
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Jul 1, 2008 13:54
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breathstealer posted:Which X-rays? If carry-on, anecdotally you may have a chance. If it was checked, then I guess you can wait it out like me - I let some Velvia go through and shot it anyways, and now I'm waiting on development with my fingers crossed. Checked  I think the Velvia should be okay. poo poo, I hope it is.
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Jul 2, 2008 11:25
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...and so the mint condition XA I paid $90 for at the store jammed halfway through its second roll, which happened to be my only roll of Kodachrome. I was able to advance the film another time by really muscling the film advance knob, but after one more shot it froze even harder and won't budge at all. I really want these little compacts to work out, but that's the fourth one (two Lomo LC-As and now a second Olympus XA) to break on me. Old film cameras  Edit: applied some more controlled violence and got it to advance, though it was still pretty sticky. Put another roll of film in and got about 4 frames off before it locked up again. On the other hand, at least the Kodak B&W 400 that went through the checked baggage X-ray seems fine. I got my first two rolls back today. Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 14:09 on Jul 7, 2008 |
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Jul 7, 2008 07:48
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How are the Russian FED rangefinders? I'm thinking of buying a Bessa R3A down the road, but wanted to try out something cheaper to see how I like using a rangefinder with interchangeable lenses first. I realize the Bessa is a much nicer camera (as are the lenses, although most of the Russian lenses should work on it), but I want to test the waters with something cheap before I put down that kind of cash. I'm looking more at size/convenience of use than optical quality par excellance. For a lightmeter, what's something fairly compact and light that I can slip in a pocket or slide on to the hotshoe? What lenses from the Jupiter lineup are generally recommended/not recommended? I know they're Russian, but are they at least somewhat reliable? I've had one LC-A and now a pair of Olympus XA's die on me and I'm kind of sick of having things break. At least FED's are cheap...
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Aug 13, 2008 14:22
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Clayton Bigsby posted:The Feds and Zorkis can be really nice if you get a good one. Don't discount the screwmount Leicas though as they can be affordable these days (figure $200 for a pretty decent one) and can be resold for about what you paid if you don't like it or want to get something newer. Which model screwmount Leica are you talking about? Also, do you mean by decent that they had a recent CLA or is at least somewhat likely to keep working for a while? I've heard good things about the Jupiter-8, but also that the big ol' rear element won't play nice with a Bessa  There's also a 50mm f/1.7 for the FED's, right? How is that? killabyte posted:So I recently bought a Bessa R3M kit. I am actually looking to sell it if you are interested. I decided I would rather use a Leica M3. I only put a few rolls through it and it is in great condition. Thanks for the offer, but as I said I'm not really willing to spring for a Bessa quite yet. Thanks for the light meter recommendation though, something like that was just what I had in mind. breathstealer posted:The thing is, that "if" is a pretty big if. Unless you get both the body and lens checked by someone who really knows what they're doing, your chances of getting a dud are very high. Lens misalignment is pretty much an inevitable thing, though it's not impossible to fix on your own. What do you mean by dud? Ebay does suck, but I've noticed a number of sellers from Ukraine who seem to sell nothing but old Russian camera gear and have good feedback. I've seen a few Canon rangefinders for sale, including a few of those ones with that huge 50mm f/.95 lens but never really looked in to them much. They seem a bit pricey... how do they compare to a screw mount Leica?
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Aug 14, 2008 11:22
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breathstealer posted:Russian gear (well, any old camera gear) can have a variety of problems. Inaccurate shutter timings, bad frame spacing, lenses that don't focus right, and shutters that just don't feel like going every so often are all relatively common on Russian stuff though. Apparently a lot of the reports of Russian optical quality being worse than the German lenses they copied from stem from the testing of misaligned lenses - a properly adjusted Jupiter-8, for example, should be excellent. I'd heard that about the Russian lenses, and also read an article a while ago that they were or might have been built to a slightly different standard than their German counterparts. So you can have a lens that works fine on a Russian camera, but if you put it on a German one it's slightly out of alignment. Is there much truth to that? Thanks for that comparison between the three. I may go with a Canon if I can find one for around $200 or less, otherwise I'd probably go with a FED. Much more than $200 and I feel like I might as well just be saving for a Bessa. Oops, I meant the J-12. I've heard good things about it, will definitely pick one up.
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Aug 15, 2008 04:44
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Better yet is buying in bulk on the ‘bay. I got 20 rolls of slightly stale Velvia 120 for $38. Processing at a pro lab was only $3 where I used to live, but I’ll be back home in a week
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Sep 15, 2008 16:08
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Jahoodie posted:Camera store closing sale... couldn't resit and if I had more cash I would have more poo poo (Velvia from fridge $3 a roll). Less than $70 pictured. Yeah, I bought a bunch of it when I lived in Beijing since it was only like 80 cents a roll there (and you could get a Seagull TLR or similar knockoff for $15!) I can't really give you specifics on the film since I'm a big baby that hasn't learned how to develop his own B&W film yet, but I have some of the results tagged on my Flickr
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Sep 16, 2008 16:43
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Not the most awesome vintage find or anything, but picked up a Rebel 2000 with a 28-80 3.5-5.6 for $10 at a garage sale this morning. I've already got an Elan, but this is lighter/smaller, so it'll make the perfect beater to drop in my backpack and cart around casually (even though it's practically mint). I saw a cool little Pentax with a 50mm prime at another one, but it had been really neglected and the shutter was jammed. I'll have to spend more Saturday mornings trawling suburbia for cameras, I seems like most people have no idea what they're selling. Now, if only I could fine a cheap 35mm prime...
Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Nov 8, 2008 |
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Nov 8, 2008 19:00
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johnasavoia posted:On the advice of a local street photography guru I shot some 400 speed color film at 250(developed at box speed by CVS) and holy poo poo, dynamic range for days, even in the contrastiest of shots, shadows are open and I can pull detail out of every single highlight, every single shot has near infinite highlight detail, I know film is miles ahead of digital in this regard, but this is beyond anything I had seen. Film was Fuji Press 400, but I'm sure it would work for anything. That sounds cool, do you have any scanned that you could share? How come you don't lose the highlights to overexposure?
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Nov 12, 2008 13:52
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Gnomad posted:also, pawn shops are practically tossing film gear at you just fro walking in the door. I saw a guy buy a Leica for $100..... guess I missed that one. drat, I'm gonna have to check up on this. Good idea.
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Dec 11, 2008 14:40
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Authentic You posted:but I already have two cameras. Hahahaha, just wait. Along with the manual, a 50mm f/1.7, a Vivitar 70-210 zoom, a 2X teleconverter, and some assorted filters, I also found the original sales receipt (he paid $300 with some film after a $4 coupon) with some handwritten notes on the back about how aperture/depth of field work  Edit 2: Some more searching and it turns out the X700 uses the same batteries as my Olympus XA. Swapped them in, gently jiggled the shutter a bit with my finger, and bam, mirror comes down, camera starts right back up. poo poo, I missed having a split-prism for focusing. Shutter sounds pretty much like a gunshot, which is satisfying in its own way but not very conducive to being unobtrusive. Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Dec 29, 2008 |
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Dec 29, 2008 05:21
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friendship waffle posted:People do use medium format lenses on 35mm bodies though. Usually they pair them with a tilt-shift adapter to make use of the wider imaging circle (otherwise it's basically wasted). I'm doing that right now, waiting on a Mamiya 645 lens I bought from KEH (rolled the dice on an UG, worst case scenario I'll just return it and eat the shipping). I had fun this summer messing around with a Olympus 21mm prime to do a tilt/shift effect, so I thought I'd try something more suitable. Basically making a wider-angle one of these. Something cheap like a TLR is probably good for you Mannequin, given your track record with gear  I agree that MF is more fun than 35mm, especially square format. (I had a 645 mask for my TLR but I only used it once or twice, felt like I might as well be shooting 35mm since I don't do any big enlargements). I used a Seagull TLR that I got for $30, a lot of people here knock them but I think it's pretty decent for the money. You can't go wrong with one of those nicer $100 Japanese ones either though. If you want to build an SLR system, Bronica 6x6 is a pretty good value for the money, since it's basically dead. KEH sells SQ-A outfits (lens, body, back, viewfinder, some with a speed grip) for around $300ish. Just don't get a Holga. That's pretty much the worst thing you can do to 120 film. Edit: CVS scanning is terrible. Everything is a grey, contrast-less haze, there's really annoying autorun software on the CD, dust and scratches on my negs. This time they hosed up and cut my frames off all wrong on the scan. I think I'm done with them, I'm tired of paying money to get my film scanned and then having to take time to process the keepers in Photoshop. Now I want a half-frame camera     Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Dec 30, 2008 |
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Dec 29, 2008 21:47
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Anyone have a mail-in type lab that does 120 film to recommend? I'm just looking to develop 2 rolls of E-6 and one B&W I've had laying around.
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Dec 30, 2008 19:06
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Gnomad posted:Maybe I should adopt some of the crazy cheap 35mm equipment I see locally for you guys in tougher markets. Today I found a Nikon N2000 with a 50mm 1.8. $50, I thought about grabbing it for the lens alone for that price. Lots of $60-$75 Olympus gear and Canon too. Not so much Nikon, since I use a D50 I've been searching mostly for Nikon. What kind of Olympus gear? I've been looking for an OM-1 or 4 ever since I handled one... they're so small. le capitan posted:I'm trying to stay around $200 for a body and lens. I was thinking of going with a 50mm f1.8 lens and getting a nikon body such as the FM or the 8008. I'm sure i'll be fine without AF. You should have no problem. I've picked up autofocus Canon bodies for $10-20 locally, just keep an eye on Craigslist or go cruising garage sales on Saturdays. The latter is where you'll find the real bargains, nice deals on CL get swooped up pretty quickly. I missed a 430EX (a Canon flash) for $100 by two hours last weekend
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Jan 1, 2009 16:30
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le capitan posted:I found a Canon AE-1 SLR camera with an FD 50mm 1:1.4 lens on craigslist for $120, but i'm still hesitant for a better deal. That's basically what KEH is asking for the same setup in "bargain" condition, so yeah, I'd hold off unless you just can't wait to start shooting. Could always ask the guy if he'd do a lower price. Doing some searches for other lenses, I came across KEH's FD selection... you can get some nice glass for really cheap, the downside being that you can't use them on a modern SLR without extensive modification or adapter that's basically an extension tube (changes FoV and degrades image quality) Clayton Bigsby posted:If you're looking for a killer OM body send me a PM, I have an OM-2 that was just serviced by Camtech earlier this year. Is it an SP? I want to use it with high speed film, so looking for one that takes ISO 3200 natively (yeah I know I could dial down exposure compensation a stop @ 1600, but I've got that feeling maybe I'll want to push it two stops someday). Not sure why I typed OM-1, really I'm looking for a 4, or I guess a 2 SP. Also an OM-G if it pops up cheap, just for the novelty of the name. Oh, if anyone is interested in that Minolta X-700, my dad wants to sell it now that he knows it works. It's got a 50mm f/1.7, a 2X teleconverter, a 70-210 f/4.5 zoom, as well as some miscellaneous filters and a camera bag. I ran a roll of film through it and it works fine. I'm going to have to ask him what he wants for it, shouldn't be much more than $50-60. Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Jan 2, 2009 |
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Jan 2, 2009 17:37
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You know what sucks? Finally getting an OM-4T, and having it drain a pair of fresh SR-44 batteries (:tenbux: at Radioshack) within 3 days/20 shots. At least KEH takes returns... glad I didn't get it on eBay. Question about the film inside: the camera died in mid-shot, with the shutter open. I kind of left it like that (no lens cap) for 1-2 minutes while I was troubleshooting. Would the rest of the roll likely be exposed because of that? We're not talking about high-quality, awesome photographs, but wondering if I should even bother with developing it.
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Jan 16, 2009 05:22
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hybr1d posted:Remember when you roll the film back in the cannister that it all has to pass by the shutter assembly one more time Awwwwww poo poo. It was just a test roll of pretty inane stuff, but good to know this stuff now. Thanks guys.
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Jan 16, 2009 13:34
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hybr1d posted:There's lots of talk of using a pro lab for negatives, and it seems nearly everyone here ends up either using a pro lab or doing it themselves. Pro labs are more expensive, but so worth it. I've never had one give me a CD full of scans cut in half with the previous/next frame, or lose/scratch negatives. If you actually care about what you're shooting, you shouldn't take your stuff to a consumer lab. I've learned this the hard way
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Jan 25, 2009 03:12
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brad industry posted:Yeah you should do that, I am actually about to go hit up a hardware store and start getting my home studio a little more organized (I live in a studio apartment just barely big enough to shoot in). I saw an enlarger out on the curb the other day and almost took it, now I wish I had. I'd be interested to see that, I've lived in a studio (apartment) and always let it hold me back from doing stuff at home.
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Jan 30, 2009 04:11
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Stregone posted:Does anyone know of any FD mount ultra wide angle or fisheye lenses? It looks like the widest canon made was a 20mm. I haven't found any info on 3rd party lenses, other than I don't see any on ebay. How about other mount lenses that can be adapted? Actually, Canon made 7.5mm and 15mm fisheyes in FD mount. I was hoping to score one for cheap and convert it to EF, but they seem to be more rare and expensive than the average FD lens. If you grab the Peleng 8mm in M42 mount, that can be adapter to FD (or just about anything else, for that matter) with a simple adapter. I've used one on my 5D and it's pretty fun, although the novelty isn't quite worth the $300 price tag to me. Edit: Here's a Sigma 16mm fisheye in FD on eBay with less than a day to go.
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Feb 18, 2009 03:39
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HPL posted:Went out and got an EOS-1000FN. Basic as heck, but it autofocuses fast enough, goes to ISO 6400 and I don't have to futz around with sprockets when loading film. It's also super light. This plus the good 'ol plastic 50mm f/1.8 makes for a combo that's so light it practically floats out of my hands. It's awesome how light/compact they can be, and the low cost means I don't feel nervous putting it in risky situations (crime, water, etc). The 50mm f/1.8 + Rebel 2000 is great for tossing in my backpack whenever I'm going out. The rest of my lenses are full frame too, but I've never really shot much with them on film.
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Feb 21, 2009 15:52
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Nedsmaster posted:I'm sure people know this, but as far as 35mm goes CVS is the cheapest. They do just the negatives for only $2.19. The CVS near me is terrible, they'll scratch negs and the scanner will cut off half the frame, etc. Edit: not all CVS's created equal
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Mar 2, 2009 03:10
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I tried this in the general thread but didn't get an answer: Anyone have any recommendations for a place to send out 35mm film for hi-res scanning? I'd like to get some big prints made of film stuff, and not sure what to look for. It'll probably be like 10-15 pictures, none of them are mounted slides if that matters.
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Mar 11, 2009 14:03
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a Wizards dick posted:Spotting negatives is the shittiest chore ever... are there any photoshop tricks that can help get rid of like 65% of the smaller bits so I can focus on the larger, hard-to-remove pieces? dust and scratches? you lose some finer detail though.
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Mar 12, 2009 03:18
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 16:39 |
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Rednik posted:Coming from Kiev, I've heard enough to instantly dismiss the Kiev cameras due to their unreliability and hit-or-miss construction. However, I'm not particularly knowledgeable about either Zorkis or FEDs, though of course I do love their styling. However, I'm still concerned about quality, particularly with the street stall atmosphere of camera shops in the former Soviet Union. How will I know the light meter and shutter are properly calibrated? At least the price would be low, I suppose. Shutter may be hit or miss, but most of them don't have a light meter to worry about (if they do it's usually selenium and crappy). I'm not sure if they handle smaller stuff like the 35mm rangefinders, but I know some Ukrainian eBay sellers actually specialize in taking brand new Russian medium format gear and overhauling it/subjecting it to actual quality control standards. They charge a premium for this of course, but it's not outrageous. Honestly, I'd recommend something Russian for your trip. If it's old looking and has a bunch of Cyrillic on it, I doubt any thieves will be interested because they know it isn't worth poo poo. I used to get Chinese people wandering up and commenting on/admiring my Seagull or Mudan TLR's when I lived in Beijing, but everyone seemed to "know" that old stuff made there = crap. Plus, you get the nostalgia factor of photographing a country with a camera from there. If you don't need interchangeable lenses, something like an Olympus XA is pretty nice and fits easily in a pocket. The original XA has a sharp 35mm f/2.8 lens, aperture-priority shooting, and a rangefinder. The later ones use zone-focus and aren't as nice, IMO.
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Mar 19, 2009 03:04
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